Re: [h-cost] regency undergarments [was: Drafting from antique garment - question]
... Also popular with costumers of this period is a slip-like undergarment with the corset-like boned bodice and an underskirt all sewn together. Sometimes the bodice of the boned lining comes down to the natural waist even though the skirt is set on at the raised level typical of the period. A sheer gown can be worn over this. ... Albert, There's a garment like this illustrated in Hunnisett (the one that includes the Regency period). I've been calling it a bodiced petticoat, and don't offhand know what Hunnissett herself calls it. The bodice is shaped more-or-less like a sports bra (with gussets and no boning) and has an ankle-length skirt attached. Two of my friends made this garment at Costume College last year, and with proper fitting it does a fabulous job of lifting the bust high enough to get that typical Regency look. I haven't read Hunnissett's notes on this garment, so don't know what historical basis she has for it, but would like to know. When Hunnisett wrote the book she had no justification for the particular pattern that she worked out. (She said the it just seemed to be the most practical solution!) However, since then, there have been examples that I have seen on E Bay and in occasional museum pictures. In any case, none of the extant garments appear, on my screen anyway, to have been boned or corded. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] regency undergarments [was: Drafting from antique garment - question]
I knew someone once who was very busty and made one of these with a corded bodice to wear under italian rensneaky little devil..lol Bambi (To be named ater) TBNL I am made for great things by GOD and walk with Pride Walladah bint al Mustakfi c 1100ad see me dance http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HMtOoXtMs0 --- On Wed, 12/17/08, cw15147-hcos...@yahoo.com wrote: From: cw15147-hcos...@yahoo.com Subject: [h-cost] regency undergarments [was: Drafting from antique garment - question] To: "Historical Costume" Date: Wednesday, December 17, 2008, 8:44 PM - Original Message From: "albert...@aol.com" To: h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 5:10:38 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question ... Also popular with costumers of this period is a slip-like undergarment with the corset-like boned bodice and an underskirt all sewn together. Sometimes the bodice of the boned lining comes down to the natural waist even though the skirt is set on at the raised level typical of the period. A sheer gown can be worn over this. ... Albert, There's a garment like this illustrated in Hunnisett (the one that includes the Regency period). I've been calling it a bodiced petticoat, and don't offhand know what Hunnissett herself calls it. The bodice is shaped more-or-less like a sports bra (with gussets and no boning) and has an ankle-length skirt attached. Two of my friends made this garment at Costume College last year, and with proper fitting it does a fabulous job of lifting the bust high enough to get that typical Regency look. I haven't read Hunnissett's notes on this garment, so don't know what historical basis she has for it, but would like to know. Claudine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] sewing machine manual
Thanks, Dennis! I understand there's also a manual for the 99/99k that is pretty much the same as the Spartan, except it's a bigger manual and explains how to use the accessories (should I find some) and how to service the machine. I'll look into that as well. -Judy Mitchell d m wrote: Hi, You can download a manual for the Spartan from Singer at this site, just put the model number (i.e. 192) in the search box: ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Australia--movie
Has anyone on this list seen "Australia"? The San Francisco Chronicle panned it thoroughly as overly long, boring, and as not coming together well. I'm hoping it's not that bad--any reviews? Fran Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming New book on 1820s dressmaking, corset making, and millinery! http://www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Australia--movie
I saw it last week. Long? Yes. Got lost in telling the story? Yes. DId I enjoy it? Yes! Beautiful scenery with the human rights issue worked into it, as well. Susan NJ On Dec 18, 08, at 12:23 PM, Lavolta Press wrote: Has anyone on this list seen "Australia"? The San Francisco Chronicle panned it thoroughly as overly long, boring, and as not coming together well. I'm hoping it's not that bad--any reviews? Fran Lavolta Press Books on Historic Costuming New book on 1820s dressmaking, corset making, and millinery! http://www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question
Brilliant!! We're really lucky that we have so many professionals on this list to guide us through some of this stuff. I knew there had to be a percentage to use, but I'm just not math-savvy enough to have figured it out. Thanks, AlbertCat! On Wed, Dec 17, 2008 at 5:27 PM, wrote: > > In a message dated 12/17/2008 6:31:48 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, > sha...@collierfam.com writes: > > Don't know about "official" methods, but when I want to size something up > or > down, I photocopy it in a percent larger mode. > > > > > Of course all proportions don't increase or decrease evenlybut this is > a > good start. Then measurements that are off can be adjusted more easily. > > The rule here is always the same to find how much to blow up or reduce: > Divide the new size into the old size and move the decimal to the right 2 > places. > It's easydon't be put off by the math. > > Let's say the waist is 20" and the new size waist should be 28". You get > out > your calculator and put in the NEW size 1st: 28". Then hit divideand > put > in the old size: 20". What comes up is 1.4. Move the decimal over 2 spaces > and you're blowing it up 140%. > > It works the other way too. > > The size of the bust in the pattern is 40". You need it to be 35". Put in > the NEW size 1st: 35". Now divide by the old size: 40". And you get 0.875. > Move > the decimal over 2 spaces and you need to reduce the image 87.5%. > > Just remember NEW size... divide... OLD sizemove decimal 2 spaces to > the > right. (Of course if you're going bigger it will always be over 100% and if > you're going smaller it will always be less than 100%. If you're making > something bigger and you get a number less that 100% when you move the > decimal...you're wrong. Did you accidentally put the old size in 1st? NEW > SIZE 1ST) > **One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, > Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-d > p&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom0025) > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] regency undergarments [was: Drafting from antique garment - question]
... Also popular with costumers of this period is a slip-like undergarment with the corset-like boned bodice and an underskirt all sewn together. Sometimes the bodice of the boned lining comes down to the natural waist even though the skirt is set on at the raised level typical of the period. A sheer gown can be worn over this. There are two issues here. One is supporting a petticoat at a level above the natural waist, to match that of the dress bodice and help the skirt to hang correctly. The other is bust support/body shaping. The late 1820s sources I researched for _The Lady's Stratagem_ indicated a method of supporting the petticoat by shoulder straps, which I've also seen occasionally on petticoats sold on eBay. As for body shaping, I found instructions for 13 styles of stays and put them all in the book. These include half-stays, which go only an inch or two below the bottoms of the bosom gores/gussets. Half-stays can be made with variations that enable the wearer to put on the stays more easily, involving either wide straps or narrow lacings that cross from back to front. The style of short stays that includes the straplike self-lacing arrangement, is the kind people who see them in museum catalogs tend to describe as "like a sports bra." However, half-stays were also made without self-lacing arrangements, and all the self-lacing arrangements could be used on full-length stays. Short stays, with or without a self-lacing arrangement, are recommended specifically for morning wear (and for early pregnancy). The middle-class female routine of getting dressed is described in great detail, garment by garment and accessory by accessory. The assumption was that even the middle-class housewife got dressed several times a day. When she got up, she "helped with the first household tasks of the day," not specified in the sources I used, but it seems by inference they included helping a servant or servants to prepare breakfast, and I'd guess some other housework. For this she wore a costume to be seen only by the immediate family, under which she wore her half-stays. After these morning tasks were done, she dressed again, this time putting on her full stays and her garments for either doing morning errands or staying at home, depending on her schedule. This second costume was usually not fancy, but it was publicly presentable. Note that I am not saying that reenactors who prefer to wear half-stays in public are "inauthentic," and that they shouldn't do it, etc. I'm just saying that half-stays seem to have had specific uses in the 1820s. Fran Lavolta Press New book on making 1820s clothing! http://www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Australia movie reviews [SEC=UNCLASSIFIED]
Fran wrote:... Has anyone on this list seen "Australia"? The San Francisco Chronicle panned it thoroughly as overly long, boring, and as not coming together well. I'm hoping it's not that bad--any reviews? --- Germaine Greer wrote a scathing review (which you can probably find on line) criticising it for everything including its protrayal of both Aboriginals and drovers. The only thing she didn't comment on was the costumes, except for the implausibility of a drover wearing a tuxedo :-) Annette Wilson (in Australia) -- If you have received this transmission in error please notify us immediately by return e-mail and delete all copies. If this e-mail or any attachments have been sent to you in error, that error does not constitute waiver of any confidentiality, privilege or copyright in respect of information in the e-mail or attachments. Please consider the environment before printing this email. -- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Australia--movie
Has anyone on this list seen "Australia"? The San Francisco Chronicle panned it thoroughly as overly long, boring, and as not coming together well. I'm hoping it's not that bad--any reviews? > ___ I haven't seen it yet, but my mom has and she said it was fabulous! She did say to buy your soda before the movie starts if you have a large bladder. Skip drinks all together if you don't! There is no opportunity to go fetch a beverage or visit the head w/o missing something. It is long, but she said you don't notice at all because you are completely involved with what is on the screen. Remember intermissions? Denise Iowa ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Translating Danish pattern instructions
Dear h-costume Is there anyone here who has translated the pattern instructions for this regency gown at http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=8 or is able to help me with translation? Bye for now, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy music ~ dancing ~ sewing ~ patterns ~ books 1480s - 1890s : Renaissance to Victorian Upcoming Events: Christmas Carol Ball 20 Dec 2008 Back from the Beach Ball 17 Jan 2009 Jane Austen Festival 16-19 April 2009 http://www.earthlydelights.com.au ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Translating Danish pattern instructions
At 22:17 18/12/2008, you wrote: Dear h-costume Is there anyone here who has translated the pattern instructions for this regency gown at http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=8 or is able to help me with translation? What, exactly, do you want translated? I can translate the technical terms on the patterns, if that's any help, but usually the text is about the dress, not necessarily instructions on how to make. I have the series of books this pattern is taken from Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Translating Danish pattern instructions
Hi Suzi I'm keen to translate the text on the pdf pattern. Most of it seems pretty self-explanatory, but it is the unknown that frustrates me. I'm learning tambour embroidery and hope to replicate the design on the skirt. Does the book have any English translations? I have it on order but won't get it for a few weeks. Bye for now, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy music ~ dancing ~ sewing ~ patterns ~ books 1480s - 1890s : Renaissance to Victorian Upcoming Events: Christmas Carol Ball 20 Dec 2008 Back from the Beach Ball 17 Jan 2009 Jane Austen Festival 16-19 April 2009 http://www.earthlydelights.com.au On Fri, Dec 19, 2008 at 9:27 AM, Suzi Clarke wrote: > At 22:17 18/12/2008, you wrote: >> >> Dear h-costume >> Is there anyone here who has translated the pattern instructions for >> this regency gown at >> http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=8 >> or is able to help me with translation? > > What, exactly, do you want translated? I can translate the technical terms > on the patterns, if that's any help, but usually the text is about the > dress, not necessarily instructions on how to make. I have the series of > books this pattern is taken from > > Suzi > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Translating Danish pattern instructions
Suzi, could you please tell me the name of that series of books? I must have it, it looks sooo good! Hanna At 23:27 18.12.2008, you wrote: At 22:17 18/12/2008, you wrote: Dear h-costume Is there anyone here who has translated the pattern instructions for this regency gown at http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=8 or is able to help me with translation? What, exactly, do you want translated? I can translate the technical terms on the patterns, if that's any help, but usually the text is about the dress, not necessarily instructions on how to make. I have the series of books this pattern is taken from Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Translating Danish pattern instructions
At 22:52 18/12/2008, you wrote: Hi Suzi I'm keen to translate the text on the pdf pattern. Most of it seems pretty self-explanatory, but it is the unknown that frustrates me. I'm learning tambour embroidery and hope to replicate the design on the skirt. Does the book have any English translations? I have it on order but won't get it for a few weeks. Bye for now, I was not aware that the books were still in print - that's interesting. No, the pictures and patterns have a summary in English, and there are a few pages at the back, as I remember, but the main text is in Danish. I have had mine for many years, and generally don't worry about the text. It's late here, I'll get my copy out tomorrow some time, but I don't think you really need that much translating. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Translating Danish pattern instructions
At 22:54 18/12/2008, you wrote: Suzi, could you please tell me the name of that series of books? I must have it, it looks sooo good! As far as I was aware the books are out of print, but as Aylwen says she has one on order they may not be. My copies were from a remaindered pile in Copenhagen - a gift from a Danish friend. I'll go and find the titles tomorrow - late now. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] The Danish books with patterns
are probably: Andersen, Ellen. Moden 1700–Arene. Copenhagen: Nationalmuseet, 1977. Danish history of costume that contains scale drafts, close-ups of period garments, and period illustrations. Worthwhile even if you don't read Danish. Andersen, Ellen. Moden 1790–1840. Copenhagen: Nationalmuseet, 1986. In the same series as Andersen's Moden 1700–Arene, with the same format. Bech, Viben. Moden 1840–1890. Copenhagen: Nationalmuseet, 1989. In the same series as Ellen Andersen's Moden 1700–Arene, with the same format. The captions are translated into English, but there are no assembly instructions for the patterns. Fran Lavolta Press New book on 1820s dressmaking and corset making! http://www.lavoltapress.om ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Translating Danish pattern instructions
I found my book on an obscure site, it was the last one. I've not been able to find it anywhere else, and will believe it when I see it. Paid by credit card so can query it if it doesn't turn up. Bye for now, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy music ~ dancing ~ sewing ~ patterns ~ books 1480s - 1890s : Renaissance to Victorian Upcoming Events: Christmas Carol Ball 20 Dec 2008 Back from the Beach Ball 17 Jan 2009 Jane Austen Festival 16-19 April 2009 http://www.earthlydelights.com.au On Fri, Dec 19, 2008 at 10:41 AM, Suzi Clarke wrote: > At 22:54 18/12/2008, you wrote: >> >> Suzi, could you please tell me the name of that series of books? I must >> have it, it looks sooo good! > > > As far as I was aware the books are out of print, but as Aylwen says she has > one on order they may not be. My copies were from a remaindered pile in > Copenhagen - a gift from a Danish friend. I'll go and find the titles > tomorrow - late now. > > Suzi > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
