Re: [h-cost] Mary I -- FOUND

2009-03-04 Thread Becky Rautine

WOW what a family! Do you think they are all the main couple's kids or some of 
the married children's kids included. I don't know anything about this 
portrait. I count 20 kids but not sure.

Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine


 
> Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 21:08:07 -0500
> From: hope.greenb...@uvm.edu
> To: h-cost...@indra.com
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mary I -- FOUND
> 
> After Holbein - I'll say - way after! Holbein died in what, 1543, which 
> would be just a few months after Mary Queen of Scots was born. Mary 1 of 
> England died in 1558. If those sleeves happened before the 1560s I'd be 
> mightily surprised. The nearest I can find on a quick look is
> ZEEUW, Cornelis de "Portrait of the De Mucheron Family"1563
> http://www.wga.hu/art/z/zeeuw/p_family.jpg
> 
> It's a wonder how these things get propagated, though. Here's an article 
> from about.com that uses the image, which it got from clipart.com that 
> has the same (must be erroneous) attribution.
> http://womenshistory.about.com/od/medbritishqueens/tp/medieval_british_queens.01.htm
> http://www.clipart.com/en/close-up?o=5272687&memlevel=A&a=a&q=mary%20i&k_mode=all&s=1&e=15&show=&c=&cid=&findincat=&g=&cc=&page=&k_exc=&pubid=
> 
> - Hope
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Re: [h-cost] Mary I -- FOUND

2009-03-04 Thread Hope Greenberg
After Holbein - I'll say - way after! Holbein died in what, 1543, which 
would be just a few months after Mary Queen of Scots was born. Mary 1 of 
England died in 1558. If those sleeves happened before the 1560s I'd be 
mightily surprised. The nearest I can find on a quick look is

ZEEUW, Cornelis de "Portrait of the De Mucheron Family"1563
http://www.wga.hu/art/z/zeeuw/p_family.jpg

It's a wonder how these things get propagated, though. Here's an article 
from about.com that uses the image, which it got from clipart.com that 
has the same (must be erroneous) attribution.

http://womenshistory.about.com/od/medbritishqueens/tp/medieval_british_queens.01.htm
http://www.clipart.com/en/close-up?o=5272687&memlevel=A&a=a&q=mary%20i&k_mode=all&s=1&e=15&show=&c=&cid=&findincat=&g=&cc=&page=&k_exc=&pubid=

- Hope
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Re: [h-cost] Mary I -- FOUND

2009-03-04 Thread Kimiko Small

Chimene & Gerek,

My thanks to you both for finding the elusive painting. At least now I can make 
sleeves like that, and have a good model to work from.

But I still say this is not a Holbein, tho if it is "after Holbein", then it 
may have been done by a student of Holbein's.

I am beginning to think this may be a French woman or Mary QoS, but not Queen 
Mary I of England. Too many images of her, as Princess and as Queen wearing the 
Henrician styles. The face isn't even the same.
http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1540/PrncMary.html
http://www.kimiko1.com/research-16th/FrenchHood/1550/QueenMaryTudorMor1554.html

Kimiko


--- On Wed, 3/4/09, Patricia Dunham  wrote:
> his cheating cribbage program (!), and found the original
> Mary I painting.
> 
> http://tvtropes.org/pmwiki/pmwiki.php/Main/TheHouseOfTudor

> found it
> http://womenshistory.about.com/od/tudor/a/tudor_women_4.htm 
> The caption there says "after Holbein"!



  
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Re: [h-cost] Period Impressions 411 "Lucy"

2009-03-04 Thread LuAnn Mason

Sorry I can't help you with this one.  I'm not of the appropriate age for this 
teen style, and my experience with Period Impressions patterns hasn't been good 
when comparing to original garments.

Hope you can find someone who can give you more detailed feedback.

LuAnn

> Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2009 10:40:20 +1100
> From: aylwe...@gmail.com
> To: h-cost...@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Period Impressions 411 "Lucy"
> 
> Has anyone here made this dress?I am looking for finished examples,
> and it is NOT reviewed at
> http://www.gbacg.org/great-pattern-review/period-impressions.html
> Any comments to share before I cut the fabric?
> Bye for now,
> 
> Aylwen Gardiner-Garden
> 
> Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy
> music ~ dancing ~ sewing ~ patterns ~ books
> 1480s - 1890s : Renaissance to Victorian
> http://www.earthlydelights.com.au
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[h-cost] Period Impressions 411 "Lucy"

2009-03-04 Thread Aylwen Garden
Has anyone here made this dress?I am looking for finished examples,
and it is NOT reviewed at
http://www.gbacg.org/great-pattern-review/period-impressions.html
Any comments to share before I cut the fabric?
Bye for now,

Aylwen Gardiner-Garden

Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy
music ~ dancing ~ sewing ~ patterns ~ books
1480s - 1890s : Renaissance to Victorian
http://www.earthlydelights.com.au
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Re: [h-cost] Trouser Zippers

2009-03-04 Thread AlbertCat
 
In a message dated 3/4/2009 12:34:02 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
kba...@cableone.net writes:

I think  you could go either way. Zippers were just coming into common use in
the  1930's, but men's formal wear was more conservative. So, the more  formal
the suit, the less likely it was to have a  zipper.



***
 
Yes you find button flies in goodor even moderately finesuits up  
until the 1950s.
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Re: [h-cost] Arnolfi dags and pleats

2009-03-04 Thread Becky Rautine

I looked at the picture for a while. Are these hanging from the sleeve like a 
thick fringe or sewn to some type of fabric and that hangs from the lower edge? 
I think that if it's just hanging there it might turn all which-a-way and not 
look right. I'm interested in how this is done. I know the site tells how to 
cut the effect but not how to attach it.

I'm working on a corset/body now that my Iron Hand smock is done. I washed it, 
neatly pressed it and it sits waiting for the other pieces to get done. Then 
I'm dressing up and having my portrait taken so I can paint a massive picture 
of myself and my daughter in our garb...and then I'll make up some story of 
that being my ancestors way back in Scotland under the Clan Buchanan (McCammon 
sept) I may even weave triangle shawls os the tartan pattern the whole 
thing! Won't we be a site at the next Ren Faire Which I think will be the 
one outside of Dallas... REAL SOON... waiting on my tax refund to have money to 
go.

I'm also posting a picture of my new grandson from my visit this weekend.

Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine


 
> From: wickedf...@msn.com
> To: h-cost...@indra.com
> Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 15:11:41 -0700
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Arnolfi dags and pleats
> 
> 
> This is cool - another alternative to Hunnisett's method.
> 
> > From: zearti...@hotmail.com
> > To: h-cost...@indra.com
> > Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 13:29:39 -0500
> > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Arnolfi dags and pleats
> > 
> > 
> > Didn't know what "dagging" was so I looked it up. Found lots about the 
> > painting but only this one on the technique: 
> > http://jauncourt.i8.com/dagges/index.htm
> > 
> > Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine
> 
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Re: [h-cost] Trouser Zippers

2009-03-04 Thread stilskin
Both buttons and zippers were in use by this time.

Buttons require a little more plackett work but always sit better. If you are 
after a more formal or up-market look, I'd suggest buttons.

As a side thought, with zippers relatively new to the scene then, I wonder how 
fancy they might have been seen as or how much of a gimmick,

-C.

> would have had a buttoned fly or already zippers in 1933. Any ideas?




This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au

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Re: [h-cost] Arnolfi dags and pleats

2009-03-04 Thread Saragrace Knauf

This is cool - another alternative to Hunnisett's method.

> From: zearti...@hotmail.com
> To: h-cost...@indra.com
> Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 13:29:39 -0500
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Arnolfi dags and pleats
> 
> 
> Didn't know what "dagging" was so I looked it up. Found lots about the 
> painting but only this one on the technique: 
> http://jauncourt.i8.com/dagges/index.htm
> 
> Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine

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Re: [h-cost] Arnolfi dags and pleats

2009-03-04 Thread Becky Rautine

Didn't know what "dagging" was so I looked it up. Found lots about the painting 
but only this one on the technique: http://jauncourt.i8.com/dagges/index.htm

Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine


 
> Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 09:39:17 -0800
> From: cinbar...@gmail.com
> To: h-cost...@indra.com
> Subject: [h-cost] Arnolfi dags and pleats
> 
> I think I'd dig out some scrap wool and make a few samples. That's a
> lot of wool to cut up badly & ruin. Do early samples on maybe a 12x12
> piece & work out the scale. Make your final samples big so you can get
> an idea not just of scale & density of cuts, but of the droop,
> ravelling, directionality of the resulting mass.
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> cinbar...@gmail.com
> 
> >I have posted pictures and a journal entry here:
> http://wickedfrau.livejournal.com/1966.html
> http://pics.livejournal.com/wickedfrau/pic/3fze/g8 (Picture is here)
> 
> >I am wondering how big those dags and pleats areHunnisett thinks they
> are only 2" square.
> 
> >What do you think?
> 
> Sg
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Re: [h-cost] Continuous knotting a necklace

2009-03-04 Thread aquazoo

> I"m planning a necklace, as an accessory to a 15th c Italian gown, and
> would like to know if, and how, to make one that is a continuous strand.
> The clerk at the bead shop didnt know how.  All she wanted to do was sell
> me inappropriate findings. I'm sure there's a way, I just dont know what
> to call it so I can search online.
> --cin


I think I know what you mean, a continuous loop with no clasp.

Hopefully you got good bead-stringing cord. Much of it is synthetic, but
most bead shops carry the silk cord.

These days, a dab of glue is your best friend and essential with the
synthetics. There's a type of superglue they have at the stores.

When you string, leave some cord at the end. I would make a slip knot. Are
you knotting between the beads or not? I don't know what is appropriate
for your era. When you get to the end, thread through about 5 beads in
both directions.

So you have the "old" end of the cord going through clockwise and the
"new" end of the cord going through counterclockwise. If you're knotting,
knot these last five beads with the tail ends of the cords. If you are not
knotting, you will end up with two knots, about 5 beads apart.

If you're not knotting and using different types of beads, you may be able
to hide the knots inside a bead that has a larger hole.

Put a tiny dab of glue on your end knots.

I think it's sturdier to have the double thread under a few beads, rather
than just tying one knot.

I hope that's clear!

 -Carol

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Re: [h-cost] Continuous knotting a necklace

2009-03-04 Thread Robin Netherton

Cin wrote:

I"m planning a necklace, as an accessory to a 15th c Italian gown, and
would like to know if, and how, to make one that is a continuous
strand.  The clerk at the bead shop didnt know how.  All she wanted to
do was sell me inappropriate findings. I'm sure there's a way, I just
dont know what to call it so I can search online.


There's a nice trick you can do when you string the old-fashioned way on a 
double strand. It places the two knots in different spots:

http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/9555/loop.htm

And here if you intend to knot between each bead:
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/9555/knottedloop.htm

This is the main page:
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/9555/beading.htm

You may need to read some of the other pages to understand things like the 
leader thread method of stringing and the knotting and finishing techniques, 
but it's worth it. This guy taught me things I didn't already know. These are 
old, traditional techniques, but in all my years of beading, I am the only 
person I've known who strings and knots like this. Everyone else I've met on 
the circuit uses crimps and other "inappropriate findings."


One thing I do differently from this fellow is to not trim my knots close; 
after glueing the knot, I use the leader thread to pull the excess ends 
through several beads, the ends going in opposite directions, and trim off the 
rest where it emerges. So there's a few beads on each side of the knot where 
there's three strands inside the beads rather than two. If you're doing 
continuous stringing, you will need to separate your knots by several beads in 
order to do this, so the end bits from the two knots don't overlap in the 
middle. (All this will make sense after you're used to the technique.)


--Robin

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Re: [h-cost] Continuous knotting a necklace

2009-03-04 Thread Cin
Thanks ladies! (Becky, Sharon, CV)
I've already pearl knotted in silk.  The knots & glue idea will
probably suit.  I think I can hide that bit inside a filigree bead.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
cinbar...@gmail.com

My mom uses plastic wrapped wire, and fastens the ends with a tiny (less
than 1/8" sq.) crimp. Look at my pearls next time you see me.
Sharon
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[h-cost] Arnolfi dags and pleats

2009-03-04 Thread Cin
I think I'd dig out some scrap wool and make a few samples.  That's a
lot of wool to cut up badly & ruin. Do early samples on maybe a 12x12
piece & work out the scale. Make your final samples big so you can get
an idea not just of scale & density of cuts, but of the droop,
ravelling, directionality of the resulting mass.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
cinbar...@gmail.com

>I have posted pictures and a journal entry here:
http://wickedfrau.livejournal.com/1966.html
http://pics.livejournal.com/wickedfrau/pic/3fze/g8 (Picture is here)

>I am wondering how big those dags and pleats areHunnisett thinks they
are only 2" square.

>What do you think?

Sg
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Re: [h-cost] Trouser Zippers

2009-03-04 Thread Kim Baird
Hanna--
I think you could go either way. Zippers were just coming into common use in
the 1930's, but men's formal wear was more conservative. So, the more formal
the suit, the less likely it was to have a zipper.
Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Hanna Zickermann
Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 9:49 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Trouser Zippers

Hello,

I´ll be making a man´s outfit - a chalk-striped three piece suit, and I am
wondering if the pants would have had a buttoned fly or already zippers in
1933. Any ideas?

Thank you,
Hanna

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Re: [h-cost] Mary I -- FOUND

2009-03-04 Thread Becky Rautine

I like the Marquite one. Anyone have any idea how that partlet was "textured" 
or manipulated to look like that?

Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine


 
> From: e...@huskers.unl.edu
> To: h-cost...@indra.com
> Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 15:01:53 +
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mary I -- FOUND
> 
> It isn't really more on the Mary I painting, but this miniature of Catherine 
> de Medici has the same odd ermine piping, and prominant eyes.
> http://www.allposters.com/-sp/Miniature-of-Catherine-De-Medici-Posters_i1586548_.htm
> I wonder if they know that Margurite of Valois further down the page is 
> upside down?
> 
> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of 
> Patricia Dunham [chim...@ravensgard.org]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 2:38 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mary I -- FOUND
> 
> My dear husband is loopy tonight, too much work out in the cold
> today. So he was noodling around on-line, bored with his cheating
> cribbage program (!), and found the original Mary I painting.
> 
> http://tvtropes.org/pmwiki/pmwiki.php/Main/TheHouseOfTudor
> 
> still looking for an attribution. (for hours and hours and hours! no luck!!)
> 
> ah, the wonder-boy does it again! I had cleaned away all the links
> to the engraving that started this, but he has found it
> http://womenshistory.about.com/od/tudor/a/tudor_women_4.htm The
> caption there says "after Holbein"!
> 
> Comparing the two, we find it very interesting how much older the
> monochrome looks (the person in the monochrome, I mean), vs. the
> child in color! The white furring in the color image looks much more
> reasonable, too.
> 
> enjoy!
> Chimene & Gerek
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Re: [h-cost] Continuous knotting a necklace

2009-03-04 Thread Becky Rautine

When I make a continious string necklace, I make sure to add knots ever so 
often so if it breaks, it all doesn't hit the floor. I also use strong fishing 
line or fine metal wire when I can...both. Heavy beads definitely use several 
strands of the strongest fishing line I can find.

Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine


 
> From: sha...@collierfam.com
> To: h-cost...@indra.com
> Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 09:06:55 -0800
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Continuous knotting a necklace
> 
> My mom uses plastic wrapped wire, and fastens the ends with a tiny (less
> than 1/8" sq.)crimp. Look at my pearls next time you see me.
> Sharon 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
> Behalf Of Cin
> Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 8:36 AM
> To: h-cost
> Subject: [h-cost] Continuous knotting a necklace
> 
> I"m planning a necklace, as an accessory to a 15th c Italian gown, and would
> like to know if, and how, to make one that is a continuous strand. The
> clerk at the bead shop didnt know how. All she wanted to do was sell me
> inappropriate findings. I'm sure there's a way, I just dont know what to
> call it so I can search online.
> --cin
> Cynthia Barnes
> cinbar...@gmail.com
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Re: [h-cost] Continuous knotting a necklace

2009-03-04 Thread Sharon Collier
My mom uses plastic wrapped wire, and fastens the ends with a tiny (less
than 1/8" sq.)crimp. Look at my pearls next time you see me.
Sharon  

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Cin
Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 8:36 AM
To: h-cost
Subject: [h-cost] Continuous knotting a necklace

I"m planning a necklace, as an accessory to a 15th c Italian gown, and would
like to know if, and how, to make one that is a continuous strand.  The
clerk at the bead shop didnt know how.  All she wanted to do was sell me
inappropriate findings. I'm sure there's a way, I just dont know what to
call it so I can search online.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
cinbar...@gmail.com
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Re: [h-cost] Need input on pleat size WAS: Need help with wool

2009-03-04 Thread Sharon Collier
I'd say make a mock up in both sizes and use the size that looks best. 

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf
Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 8:22 AM
To: h-cost...@indra.com; therenaissancetai...@yahoogroups.com;
germanrencost...@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [h-cost] Need input on pleat size WAS: Need help with wool


I have posted pictures and a journal entry here:
http://wickedfrau.livejournal.com/1966.html
http://pics.livejournal.com/wickedfrau/pic/3fze/g8 (Picture is here)

I am wondering how big those dags and pleats areHunnisett thinks they
are only 2" square.

What do you think?

Sg

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Re: [h-cost] Continuous knotting a necklace

2009-03-04 Thread Cynthia Virtue
When I've done them, I've just made a square knot, as tight and small as 
possible, and sometimes another square knot half (so it complements the 
half of the previous one) on top of that.  A bit of glue on top of that, 
if you have the right sort might be a good choice as well.


--

Cynthia Virtue and/or Cynthia du Pre Argent


 "Such virtue hath my pen"  -Shakespeare, Sonnet 81

  "I knew this wasn't _my_ pen!"  --Cynthia Virtue

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[h-cost] Continuous knotting a necklace

2009-03-04 Thread Cin
I"m planning a necklace, as an accessory to a 15th c Italian gown, and
would like to know if, and how, to make one that is a continuous
strand.  The clerk at the bead shop didnt know how.  All she wanted to
do was sell me inappropriate findings. I'm sure there's a way, I just
dont know what to call it so I can search online.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
cinbar...@gmail.com
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[h-cost] Need input on pleat size WAS: Need help with wool

2009-03-04 Thread Saragrace Knauf

I have posted pictures and a journal entry here:
http://wickedfrau.livejournal.com/1966.html
http://pics.livejournal.com/wickedfrau/pic/3fze/g8 (Picture is here)

I am wondering how big those dags and pleats areHunnisett thinks they are 
only 2" square.

What do you think?

Sg

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[h-cost] Trouser Zippers

2009-03-04 Thread Hanna Zickermann

Hello,

I´ll be making a man´s outfit - a chalk-striped 
three piece suit, and I am wondering if the pants 
would have had a buttoned fly or already zippers in 1933. Any ideas?


Thank you,
Hanna

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Re: [h-cost] Mary I -- FOUND

2009-03-04 Thread e...@huskers.unl.edu
It isn't really more on the Mary I painting, but this miniature of Catherine de 
Medici has the same odd ermine piping, and prominant eyes.
http://www.allposters.com/-sp/Miniature-of-Catherine-De-Medici-Posters_i1586548_.htm
I wonder if they know that Margurite of Valois further down the page is upside 
down?

From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of 
Patricia Dunham [chim...@ravensgard.org]
Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 2:38 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Mary I -- FOUND

My dear husband is loopy tonight, too much work out in the cold
today.  So he was noodling around on-line, bored with his cheating
cribbage program (!), and found the original Mary I painting.

http://tvtropes.org/pmwiki/pmwiki.php/Main/TheHouseOfTudor

still looking for an attribution.  (for hours and hours and hours!  no luck!!)

ah, the wonder-boy does it again!  I had cleaned away all the links
to the engraving that started this, but he has found it
http://womenshistory.about.com/od/tudor/a/tudor_women_4.htm  The
caption there says "after Holbein"!

Comparing the two, we find it very interesting how much older the
monochrome looks (the person in the monochrome, I mean), vs. the
child in color!  The white furring in the color image looks much more
reasonable, too.

enjoy!
Chimene & Gerek
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Re: [h-cost] Flemish Dress

2009-03-04 Thread J A Urbik
Eureka!  or rather, while putting the bodice together, I found a quote
that might be why i had decided to  line the skirt with wool as well
as the bodice, beyond the whole making it reversible.  though since
this time I am Drea's directions unlike before when I made my own
sewing directions (so i could sandwich the skirt between the bodice
layers instead of making both seperate, and tehn attaching the two
together) i actually was able to find this quote.

here is the quote from Drea's web page
"The skirts in 16th century genre paintings were lined-all those where
the lining could be seen, that is. The lining was often a contrasting
fabric, and was very likely wool rather than linen. "

found on http://www.elizabethancostume.net/lowerclass/makeflem.html

I am sorry if i am slavishly quoting her, but i would really rather
not do the original research myself, if i don't have to.  I am just
too lazy i think.

On Wed, Mar 4, 2009 at 8:36 AM, Rebecca Schmitt
 wrote:
> Thanks for the explanation! I'm curious now too, were you only going to line
> the bodice, or the whole skirt as well? I just imagine that lining the skirt
> with wool would be incredibly heavy, no matter how light the wool is to
> start with.
>
> 
> Rebecca Schmitt
> aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire
> *
>
>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com
>> [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of J A Urbik
>> Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 6:42 AM
>> To: Historical Costume
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flemish Dress
>>
>> I chose to line with wool for two reasons.
>>
>> reason 1) Drea sais that the shrinerose gown was lined with wool, so i
>> figured i'd go with that.   "This gown bodice will have three pieces:
>> one back, and two front pieces. Lining is optional. The
>> shinrone gown was partially lined with wool; it is a rather
>> complex lining process, involving extending the bodice
>> pattern down and folding the excess fabric up on the inside.
>> I tried it, and it made quite a respectable gown bodice. "
>>
>> reason 2) it is fairly easy to make the gowns reversable, so
>> I do so, and I figured that if I wanted wool on the outside,
>> and i wanted it reversable, I needed wool on both sides.
>>
>> reasson 3) not a big deal, but if one wants wool, one of the
>> reasons that one wants wool is that it hanges diffrently then
>> linen, and so lining with linen would change the hang?  this
>> one i am not too sure of cause i have not done much with wool
>> in the past.
>>
>> On Tue, Mar 3, 2009 at 9:26 PM, Rebecca Schmitt
>>  wrote:
>> > I'm curious why you decided to line with wool as well as
>> use wool for
>> > the top fabric? Most of the extant garments I can think of (and,
>> > admittedly, my memory on this is not spectacular!) are
>> lined with linen.
>> >
>> > I made an overgown of this sort a few years back, with the
>> outside a
>> > mid-to-lightweight wool and the lining linen; I'm pretty sure I did
>> > not use an interlining of any sort. I it cut away in the
>> front quite a
>> > bit, so it really doesn't come together much past the
>> shoulder straps.
>> > It's very comfy, although it does wrinkle some. That doesn't really
>> > bother me much - the ease of movement as I chase my
>> 3-year-old is much more important!
>> >
>> > 
>> > Rebecca Schmitt
>> > aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire
>> > *
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >> -Original Message-
>> >> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com
>> >> [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of J A Urbik
>> >> Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2009 7:40 AM
>> >> To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> >> Subject: [h-cost] Flemish Dress
>> >>
>> >> Hi all, am making this year's edition of the whole flemish dress,
>> >> this time I am making a Gored Kirtle
>> >> (http://www.elizabethancostume.net/kirtlepat/gored.html) and an
>> >> overdress
>> >> (http://www.elizabethancostume.net/lowerclass/makeflem.html#gown).
>> >>  In the past I had made both under and overdress out of linen,
>> >> because I was mostly doing summer events.
>> >>
>> >> However, this time I am going to make the overdress out of
>> wool, with
>> >> wool as the lining.  Both are fairly light weight, and we will see
>> >> about how hot it is (i actually think it should be book,
>> at least for
>> >> non-extremely hot days, and for the really hot days, a couple of
>> >> pieces of ice down the bodice should do wonders).
>> >>
>> >> What I would like advise about would be should I put an addition
>> >> layer of sturdy linen or something as an underlining on
>> the bodice,
>> >> or will the just the wool be ok?
>> >>
>> >> I know I will need a strip of something sturdy down the
>> front edges,
>> >> from previous experience with the style, but I have not worked too
>> >> much in wool, so i don't know how it will go.
>> >>
>> >>  The gored kirtle that the overdress will go on top

Re: [h-cost] Flemish Dress

2009-03-04 Thread J A Urbik
Eureka!  or rather, while putting the bodice together, I found a quote
that might be why i had decided to  line the skirt with wool as well
as the bodice, beyond the whole making it reversible.  though since
this time I am Drea's directions unlike before when I made my own
sewing directions (so i could sandwich the skirt between the bodice
layers instead of making both seperate, and tehn attaching the two
together) i actually was able to find this quote.

here is the quote from Drea's web page
"The skirts in 16th century genre paintings were lined-all those where
the lining could be seen, that is. The lining was often a contrasting
fabric, and was very likely wool rather than linen. "

found on http://www.elizabethancostume.net/lowerclass/makeflem.html

I am sorry if i am slavishly quoting her, but i would really rather
not do the original research myself, if i don't have to.  I am just
too lazy i think.

On Wed, Mar 4, 2009 at 8:36 AM, Rebecca Schmitt
 wrote:
> Thanks for the explanation! I'm curious now too, were you only going to line
> the bodice, or the whole skirt as well? I just imagine that lining the skirt
> with wool would be incredibly heavy, no matter how light the wool is to
> start with.
>
> 
> Rebecca Schmitt
> aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire
> *
>
>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com
>> [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of J A Urbik
>> Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 6:42 AM
>> To: Historical Costume
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flemish Dress
>>
>> I chose to line with wool for two reasons.
>>
>> reason 1) Drea sais that the shrinerose gown was lined with wool, so i
>> figured i'd go with that.   "This gown bodice will have three pieces:
>> one back, and two front pieces. Lining is optional. The
>> shinrone gown was partially lined with wool; it is a rather
>> complex lining process, involving extending the bodice
>> pattern down and folding the excess fabric up on the inside.
>> I tried it, and it made quite a respectable gown bodice. "
>>
>> reason 2) it is fairly easy to make the gowns reversable, so
>> I do so, and I figured that if I wanted wool on the outside,
>> and i wanted it reversable, I needed wool on both sides.
>>
>> reasson 3) not a big deal, but if one wants wool, one of the
>> reasons that one wants wool is that it hanges diffrently then
>> linen, and so lining with linen would change the hang?  this
>> one i am not too sure of cause i have not done much with wool
>> in the past.
>>
>> On Tue, Mar 3, 2009 at 9:26 PM, Rebecca Schmitt
>>  wrote:
>> > I'm curious why you decided to line with wool as well as
>> use wool for
>> > the top fabric? Most of the extant garments I can think of (and,
>> > admittedly, my memory on this is not spectacular!) are
>> lined with linen.
>> >
>> > I made an overgown of this sort a few years back, with the
>> outside a
>> > mid-to-lightweight wool and the lining linen; I'm pretty sure I did
>> > not use an interlining of any sort. I it cut away in the
>> front quite a
>> > bit, so it really doesn't come together much past the
>> shoulder straps.
>> > It's very comfy, although it does wrinkle some. That doesn't really
>> > bother me much - the ease of movement as I chase my
>> 3-year-old is much more important!
>> >
>> > 
>> > Rebecca Schmitt
>> > aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire
>> > *
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >> -Original Message-
>> >> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com
>> >> [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of J A Urbik
>> >> Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2009 7:40 AM
>> >> To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> >> Subject: [h-cost] Flemish Dress
>> >>
>> >> Hi all, am making this year's edition of the whole flemish dress,
>> >> this time I am making a Gored Kirtle
>> >> (http://www.elizabethancostume.net/kirtlepat/gored.html) and an
>> >> overdress
>> >> (http://www.elizabethancostume.net/lowerclass/makeflem.html#gown).
>> >>  In the past I had made both under and overdress out of linen,
>> >> because I was mostly doing summer events.
>> >>
>> >> However, this time I am going to make the overdress out of
>> wool, with
>> >> wool as the lining.  Both are fairly light weight, and we will see
>> >> about how hot it is (i actually think it should be book,
>> at least for
>> >> non-extremely hot days, and for the really hot days, a couple of
>> >> pieces of ice down the bodice should do wonders).
>> >>
>> >> What I would like advise about would be should I put an addition
>> >> layer of sturdy linen or something as an underlining on
>> the bodice,
>> >> or will the just the wool be ok?
>> >>
>> >> I know I will need a strip of something sturdy down the
>> front edges,
>> >> from previous experience with the style, but I have not worked too
>> >> much in wool, so i don't know how it will go.
>> >>
>> >>  The gored kirtle that the overdress will go on top

Re: [h-cost] Flemish Dress

2009-03-04 Thread J A Urbik
I assumed wool, but i had not thought about the weight.  I doing the
outside in a pastelish blue/green, and the inside in red.  but I have
some red linen that would work as well, if I am not planning on having
the dress be reversible.  i will have to see.  That is exactly why i
posted my question in the first place, i know you all would bring up
something that i had not thought about.

On Wed, Mar 4, 2009 at 8:36 AM, Rebecca Schmitt
 wrote:
> Thanks for the explanation! I'm curious now too, were you only going to line
> the bodice, or the whole skirt as well? I just imagine that lining the skirt
> with wool would be incredibly heavy, no matter how light the wool is to
> start with.
>
> 
> Rebecca Schmitt
> aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire
> *
>
>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com
>> [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of J A Urbik
>> Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 6:42 AM
>> To: Historical Costume
>> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flemish Dress
>>
>> I chose to line with wool for two reasons.
>>
>> reason 1) Drea sais that the shrinerose gown was lined with wool, so i
>> figured i'd go with that.   "This gown bodice will have three pieces:
>> one back, and two front pieces. Lining is optional. The
>> shinrone gown was partially lined with wool; it is a rather
>> complex lining process, involving extending the bodice
>> pattern down and folding the excess fabric up on the inside.
>> I tried it, and it made quite a respectable gown bodice. "
>>
>> reason 2) it is fairly easy to make the gowns reversable, so
>> I do so, and I figured that if I wanted wool on the outside,
>> and i wanted it reversable, I needed wool on both sides.
>>
>> reasson 3) not a big deal, but if one wants wool, one of the
>> reasons that one wants wool is that it hanges diffrently then
>> linen, and so lining with linen would change the hang?  this
>> one i am not too sure of cause i have not done much with wool
>> in the past.
>>
>> On Tue, Mar 3, 2009 at 9:26 PM, Rebecca Schmitt
>>  wrote:
>> > I'm curious why you decided to line with wool as well as
>> use wool for
>> > the top fabric? Most of the extant garments I can think of (and,
>> > admittedly, my memory on this is not spectacular!) are
>> lined with linen.
>> >
>> > I made an overgown of this sort a few years back, with the
>> outside a
>> > mid-to-lightweight wool and the lining linen; I'm pretty sure I did
>> > not use an interlining of any sort. I it cut away in the
>> front quite a
>> > bit, so it really doesn't come together much past the
>> shoulder straps.
>> > It's very comfy, although it does wrinkle some. That doesn't really
>> > bother me much - the ease of movement as I chase my
>> 3-year-old is much more important!
>> >
>> > 
>> > Rebecca Schmitt
>> > aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire
>> > *
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >> -Original Message-
>> >> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com
>> >> [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of J A Urbik
>> >> Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2009 7:40 AM
>> >> To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> >> Subject: [h-cost] Flemish Dress
>> >>
>> >> Hi all, am making this year's edition of the whole flemish dress,
>> >> this time I am making a Gored Kirtle
>> >> (http://www.elizabethancostume.net/kirtlepat/gored.html) and an
>> >> overdress
>> >> (http://www.elizabethancostume.net/lowerclass/makeflem.html#gown).
>> >>  In the past I had made both under and overdress out of linen,
>> >> because I was mostly doing summer events.
>> >>
>> >> However, this time I am going to make the overdress out of
>> wool, with
>> >> wool as the lining.  Both are fairly light weight, and we will see
>> >> about how hot it is (i actually think it should be book,
>> at least for
>> >> non-extremely hot days, and for the really hot days, a couple of
>> >> pieces of ice down the bodice should do wonders).
>> >>
>> >> What I would like advise about would be should I put an addition
>> >> layer of sturdy linen or something as an underlining on
>> the bodice,
>> >> or will the just the wool be ok?
>> >>
>> >> I know I will need a strip of something sturdy down the
>> front edges,
>> >> from previous experience with the style, but I have not worked too
>> >> much in wool, so i don't know how it will go.
>> >>
>> >>  The gored kirtle that the overdress will go on top of is
>> a fashion
>> >> fabric and a lining, both of sturdy linen, but not heavyweight. I
>> >> wear size 16/18 and am about a B cup  (about
>> >> 5'4 and 180 pounds) if that influances your advise.
>> Thanks for all
>> >> help.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> jordana
>> >> ___
>> >> h-costume mailing list
>> >> h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> > ___
>> > h-costume mailing list
>> > h-

Re: [h-cost] Mary I -- FOUND

2009-03-04 Thread penhal...@juno.com
I'm still thinking that this portrait is (at best) a portrait of Mary of 
Scotland which has been confused with Mary Tudor. The style of everything about 
it is terribly French and at least a decade after Mary Tudor died. Since Mary 
Tudor married the King of Spain, she wasn't terribly popular in France and she 
had her portrait painted by only a couple of artists in her relatively brief 
reign and they were not French. 
 
Karen
Seamstrix

-- Patricia Dunham  wrote:
My dear husband is loopy tonight, too much work out in the cold 
today.  So he was noodling around on-line, bored with his cheating 
cribbage program (!), and found the original Mary I painting.

http://tvtropes.org/pmwiki/pmwiki.php/Main/TheHouseOfTudor

still looking for an attribution.  (for hours and hours and hours!  no luck!!)

ah, the wonder-boy does it again!  I had cleaned away all the links 
to the engraving that started this, but he has found it 
http://womenshistory.about.com/od/tudor/a/tudor_women_4.htm  The 
caption there says "after Holbein"!

Comparing the two, we find it very interesting how much older the 
monochrome looks (the person in the monochrome, I mean), vs. the 
child in color!  The white furring in the color image looks much more 
reasonable, too.

enjoy!
Chimene & Gerek
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Digital Photography - Click Now.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTDvmPoYN5xl3rqnHY15jsmuP9RATqBaP7I1vukffw68m0GVAM7uM4/
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Re: [h-cost] Flemish Dress

2009-03-04 Thread Rebecca Schmitt
Thanks for the explanation! I'm curious now too, were you only going to line
the bodice, or the whole skirt as well? I just imagine that lining the skirt
with wool would be incredibly heavy, no matter how light the wool is to
start with.


Rebecca Schmitt
aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire
*
 

> -Original Message-
> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com 
> [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of J A Urbik
> Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 6:42 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Flemish Dress
> 
> I chose to line with wool for two reasons.
> 
> reason 1) Drea sais that the shrinerose gown was lined with wool, so i
> figured i'd go with that.   "This gown bodice will have three pieces:
> one back, and two front pieces. Lining is optional. The 
> shinrone gown was partially lined with wool; it is a rather 
> complex lining process, involving extending the bodice 
> pattern down and folding the excess fabric up on the inside. 
> I tried it, and it made quite a respectable gown bodice. "
> 
> reason 2) it is fairly easy to make the gowns reversable, so 
> I do so, and I figured that if I wanted wool on the outside, 
> and i wanted it reversable, I needed wool on both sides.
> 
> reasson 3) not a big deal, but if one wants wool, one of the 
> reasons that one wants wool is that it hanges diffrently then 
> linen, and so lining with linen would change the hang?  this 
> one i am not too sure of cause i have not done much with wool 
> in the past.
> 
> On Tue, Mar 3, 2009 at 9:26 PM, Rebecca Schmitt 
>  wrote:
> > I'm curious why you decided to line with wool as well as 
> use wool for 
> > the top fabric? Most of the extant garments I can think of (and, 
> > admittedly, my memory on this is not spectacular!) are 
> lined with linen.
> >
> > I made an overgown of this sort a few years back, with the 
> outside a 
> > mid-to-lightweight wool and the lining linen; I'm pretty sure I did 
> > not use an interlining of any sort. I it cut away in the 
> front quite a 
> > bit, so it really doesn't come together much past the 
> shoulder straps. 
> > It's very comfy, although it does wrinkle some. That doesn't really 
> > bother me much - the ease of movement as I chase my 
> 3-year-old is much more important!
> >
> > 
> > Rebecca Schmitt
> > aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire
> > *
> >
> >
> >
> >> -Original Message-
> >> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com
> >> [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of J A Urbik
> >> Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2009 7:40 AM
> >> To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >> Subject: [h-cost] Flemish Dress
> >>
> >> Hi all, am making this year's edition of the whole flemish dress, 
> >> this time I am making a Gored Kirtle
> >> (http://www.elizabethancostume.net/kirtlepat/gored.html) and an 
> >> overdress 
> >> (http://www.elizabethancostume.net/lowerclass/makeflem.html#gown).
> >>  In the past I had made both under and overdress out of linen, 
> >> because I was mostly doing summer events.
> >>
> >> However, this time I am going to make the overdress out of 
> wool, with 
> >> wool as the lining.  Both are fairly light weight, and we will see 
> >> about how hot it is (i actually think it should be book, 
> at least for 
> >> non-extremely hot days, and for the really hot days, a couple of 
> >> pieces of ice down the bodice should do wonders).
> >>
> >> What I would like advise about would be should I put an addition 
> >> layer of sturdy linen or something as an underlining on 
> the bodice, 
> >> or will the just the wool be ok?
> >>
> >> I know I will need a strip of something sturdy down the 
> front edges, 
> >> from previous experience with the style, but I have not worked too 
> >> much in wool, so i don't know how it will go.
> >>
> >>  The gored kirtle that the overdress will go on top of is 
> a fashion 
> >> fabric and a lining, both of sturdy linen, but not heavyweight. I 
> >> wear size 16/18 and am about a B cup  (about
> >> 5'4 and 180 pounds) if that influances your advise.  
> Thanks for all 
> >> help.
> >>
> >>
> >> jordana
> >> ___
> >> h-costume mailing list
> >> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >>
> >
> >
> > ___
> > h-costume mailing list
> > h-costume@mail.indra.com
> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> >
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> 


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Re: [h-cost] Mary I -- FOUND

2009-03-04 Thread Melanie Schuessler
Thanks!  This is very interesting, and more convincing than the later  
version, though there are still some things that seem odd.  And I  
still don't think it's Mary I or Holbein.


Melanie Schuessler


On Mar 4, 2009, at 3:38 AM, Patricia Dunham wrote:

My dear husband is loopy tonight, too much work out in the cold  
today.  So he was noodling around on-line, bored with his cheating  
cribbage program (!), and found the original Mary I painting.


http://tvtropes.org/pmwiki/pmwiki.php/Main/TheHouseOfTudor

still looking for an attribution.  (for hours and hours and hours!   
no luck!!)


ah, the wonder-boy does it again!  I had cleaned away all the links  
to the engraving that started this, but he has found it http:// 
womenshistory.about.com/od/tudor/a/tudor_women_4.htm  The caption  
there says "after Holbein"!


Comparing the two, we find it very interesting how much older the  
monochrome looks (the person in the monochrome, I mean), vs. the  
child in color!  The white furring in the color image looks much  
more reasonable, too.


enjoy!
Chimene & Gerek
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Re: [h-cost] Flemish Dress

2009-03-04 Thread J A Urbik
Mostly I did not want to line it for heat reasons. And I just have not
recently come across a tropical weight wool that was withing
affordable spects that i liked both the color and the texture.  I know
I can dye wool, but i am am really not prepared to do that as it seems
like it is very hard to ensure that one has a specific color.


also, i want to use the stuff that i have in my basement, which
happens to NOT be tropical weight :)


On Tue, Mar 3, 2009 at 11:01 PM, otsisto  wrote:
> Were you not wanting to not line it for heat reasons or sewing reasons?
> If you were wanting a cooler outfit you might try tropical weight wool and
> line with linen for the outer piece and make the kirtle out of linen, only
> lining the bodice.
>
>
>
>
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Re: [h-cost] Flemish Dress

2009-03-04 Thread J A Urbik
I chose to line with wool for two reasons.

reason 1) Drea sais that the shrinerose gown was lined with wool, so i
figured i'd go with that.   "This gown bodice will have three pieces:
one back, and two front pieces. Lining is optional. The shinrone gown
was partially lined with wool; it is a rather complex lining process,
involving extending the bodice pattern down and folding the excess
fabric up on the inside. I tried it, and it made quite a respectable
gown bodice. "

reason 2) it is fairly easy to make the gowns reversable, so I do so,
and I figured that if I wanted wool on the outside, and i wanted it
reversable, I needed wool on both sides.

reasson 3) not a big deal, but if one wants wool, one of the reasons
that one wants wool is that it hanges diffrently then linen, and so
lining with linen would change the hang?  this one i am not too sure
of cause i have not done much with wool in the past.

On Tue, Mar 3, 2009 at 9:26 PM, Rebecca Schmitt
 wrote:
> I'm curious why you decided to line with wool as well as use wool for the
> top fabric? Most of the extant garments I can think of (and, admittedly, my
> memory on this is not spectacular!) are lined with linen.
>
> I made an overgown of this sort a few years back, with the outside a
> mid-to-lightweight wool and the lining linen; I'm pretty sure I did not use
> an interlining of any sort. I it cut away in the front quite a bit, so it
> really doesn't come together much past the shoulder straps. It's very comfy,
> although it does wrinkle some. That doesn't really bother me much - the ease
> of movement as I chase my 3-year-old is much more important!
>
> 
> Rebecca Schmitt
> aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire
> *
>
>
>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com
>> [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of J A Urbik
>> Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2009 7:40 AM
>> To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
>> Subject: [h-cost] Flemish Dress
>>
>> Hi all, am making this year's edition of the whole flemish
>> dress, this time I am making a Gored Kirtle
>> (http://www.elizabethancostume.net/kirtlepat/gored.html) and
>> an overdress
>> (http://www.elizabethancostume.net/lowerclass/makeflem.html#gown).
>>  In the past I had made both under and overdress out of
>> linen, because I was mostly doing summer events.
>>
>> However, this time I am going to make the overdress out of
>> wool, with wool as the lining.  Both are fairly light weight,
>> and we will see about how hot it is (i actually think it
>> should be book, at least for non-extremely hot days, and for
>> the really hot days, a couple of pieces of ice down the
>> bodice should do wonders).
>>
>> What I would like advise about would be should I put an
>> addition layer of sturdy linen or something as an underlining
>> on the bodice, or will the just the wool be ok?
>>
>> I know I will need a strip of something sturdy down the front
>> edges, from previous experience with the style, but I have
>> not worked too much in wool, so i don't know how it will go.
>>
>>  The gored kirtle that the overdress will go on top of is a
>> fashion fabric and a lining, both of sturdy linen, but not
>> heavyweight. I wear size 16/18 and am about a B cup  (about
>> 5'4 and 180 pounds) if that influances your advise.  Thanks
>> for all help.
>>
>>
>> jordana
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>
>
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Re: [h-cost] Mary I -- FOUND

2009-03-04 Thread Patricia Dunham
My dear husband is loopy tonight, too much work out in the cold 
today.  So he was noodling around on-line, bored with his cheating 
cribbage program (!), and found the original Mary I painting.


http://tvtropes.org/pmwiki/pmwiki.php/Main/TheHouseOfTudor

still looking for an attribution.  (for hours and hours and hours!  no luck!!)

ah, the wonder-boy does it again!  I had cleaned away all the links 
to the engraving that started this, but he has found it 
http://womenshistory.about.com/od/tudor/a/tudor_women_4.htm  The 
caption there says "after Holbein"!


Comparing the two, we find it very interesting how much older the 
monochrome looks (the person in the monochrome, I mean), vs. the 
child in color!  The white furring in the color image looks much more 
reasonable, too.


enjoy!
Chimene & Gerek
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