Re: [h-cost] Book review requested - Nineteenth Century Fashion indetail

2009-05-07 Thread Käthe Barrows
Worth whatever they're charging for it.  I live by my copy.

For interior details, check out Costume in Detail: 1730-1930 (Paperback) by
> Nancy Bradfield
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Re: [h-cost] Book review requested - Nineteenth Century Fashion indetail

2009-05-07 Thread Kim Baird
For interior details, check out Costume in Detail: 1730-1930 (Paperback) by
Nancy Bradfield 
Amazon has it.

Kim

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Elizabeth Walpole
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 9:30 PM
To: 'Historical Costume'
Subject: [h-cost] Book review requested - Nineteenth Century Fashion
indetail

Hi everyone,
I've just got some bonus money and I'm planning on spending some of it on
books. I'm looking for a book that will show me internal construction
details of Victorian era clothing preferably using detailed photos. Looking
on Amazon I found Nineteenth Century Fashion in Detail by Lucy Johnston, so
for those who have a copy does it include these sort of details (or it is
external decorative details like embroidery or ruching). My final question
is Amazon UK has two books listed one that's in print
http://tinyurl.com/oobv6x and one that's out of print
http://tinyurl.com/oapatu Does anyone know if there are any differences
between the editions apart from the cover?
Thanks
Elizabeth
---
Elizabeth Walpole   
Canberra, Australia
http://magpiecostumer.110mb.com/

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Re: [h-cost] CC27 historical judge talks about documentation

2009-05-07 Thread Käthe Barrows
Sure.

BTW, if you're the same Deb Salisbury who designed the wizard tabard I wore
in Costume Maker's Art, now my 21-year-old has started making one.

On Thu, May 7, 2009 at 8:41 PM, Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker <
d...@mantua-maker.com> wrote:

> Hi Kayta,
>
> May I put your article on my website? I think it was very well done, and a
> good resource for historical costumers.
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Re: [h-cost] CC27 historical judge talks about documentation

2009-05-07 Thread Deb Salisbury, the Mantua-Maker

Hi Kayta,

May I put your article on my website? I think it was very well done, and a good 
resource for historical costumers.

Happy sewing,
  Deb Salisbury
  The Mantua-Maker
  Designer and creator of quality historical sewing patterns
  Renaissance to Victorian
  Now available:
 Elephant's Breath and London Smoke: Historical Colors, Names, Definitions 
& Uses
  www.mantua-maker.com
  http://mantua-maker-patterns.blogspot.com - See my Color of the Day


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Re: [h-cost] CC27 historical judge talks about presentation

2009-05-07 Thread Kimiko Small

Your call. Thank you for providing your perspective with the first two articles.

Kimiko

--- On Thu, 5/7/09, Käthe Barrows  wrote:

> From: Käthe Barrows 
> Subject: [h-cost] CC27 historical judge talks about presentation
> To: "Historical Costume" 
> Date: Thursday, May 7, 2009, 7:45 PM
> I was going to write something about
> presentation, but now I'm going
> to let someone else write it.  I apologize to all the
> people who I
> promised this article to.
> 
> -- 
> Carolyn Kayta Barrows
> --
> Blank paper is God's way of saying it ain't so easy being
> God.
> --
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Re: [h-cost] CC27 historical judge talks about presentation

2009-05-07 Thread cw15147-hcost00

I'm really sorry that you're not going to write it. I really enjoyed the first 
two parts you wrote.



Claudine



- Original Message 
From: Käthe Barrows 
To: Historical Costume 
Sent: Thursday, May 7, 2009 7:45:45 PM
Subject: [h-cost] CC27 historical judge talks about presentation

I was going to write something about presentation, but now I'm going
to let someone else write it.  I apologize to all the people who I
promised this article to.

-- 
Carolyn Kayta Barrows
--
Blank paper is God's way of saying it ain't so easy being God.
--
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Re: [h-cost] Book review requested - Nineteenth Century Fashion in detail

2009-05-07 Thread Catherine Olanich Raymond
On Thursday 07 May 2009 10:29:45 pm Elizabeth Walpole wrote:
> Hi everyone,
> I've just got some bonus money and I'm planning on spending some of it on
> books. I'm looking for a book that will show me internal construction
> details of Victorian era clothing preferably using detailed photos. Looking
> on Amazon I found Nineteenth Century Fashion in Detail by Lucy Johnston, so
> for those who have a copy does it include these sort of details (or it is
> external decorative details like embroidery or ruching). 

All of the photos are of external details, such as ruching.  However, there 
are no photos of the entire garment (though there are line sketches) and no 
photos showing construction.


--
Cathy Raymond 

"All the world's a stage and most of us are desperately unrehearsed." --Sean 
O'Casey


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[h-cost] CC27 historical judge talks about presentation

2009-05-07 Thread Käthe Barrows
I was going to write something about presentation, but now I'm going
to let someone else write it.  I apologize to all the people who I
promised this article to.

-- 
Carolyn Kayta Barrows
--
Blank paper is God's way of saying it ain't so easy being God.
--
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Re: [h-cost] CC27 historical judge talks about workmanship and historical interpretation

2009-05-07 Thread Käthe Barrows
Sorry.  I guess people couldn't see how much I was laughing when I wrote it
- the entrant saw our actual reaction at the time.  IIRC, the entrant
laughed *with us* when we said all this in front of her, so I didn't think
she'd be offended when I said it again.  (If she was offended, I'll
apologize publicly, if she e-mails me.)  And she did tie for Best in Show,
unanimously, so I thought it made a good example.  And, like I said, she
might as well have stepped right out of the pattern envelope, it was that
perfect a replica - the ribbons on the hat were even draped exactly the same
way.  (Part of her docs, on the underwear, was a contemporary advertisement
which said, "I dreamed I was at the Masquerade in my Maidenform bra".)

As far as repeating what the judges said, I figure if the contestant was
present, as a witness, that much information could be made public.  As in,
she was free to repeat it if she wanted to, or call us on any
misrepresentation.  What we said while deliberating did, in fact, stay in
the room (our judge's clerk probably shredded it along with all the rest of
the deliberation paperwork).

It's probably bad manners to say this on the list rather than privately, but
> I'm a bit concerned for what the lurkers might think if this isn't responded
> to.
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[h-cost] Book review requested - Nineteenth Century Fashion in detail

2009-05-07 Thread Elizabeth Walpole
Hi everyone,
I've just got some bonus money and I'm planning on spending some of it on
books. I'm looking for a book that will show me internal construction
details of Victorian era clothing preferably using detailed photos. Looking
on Amazon I found Nineteenth Century Fashion in Detail by Lucy Johnston, so
for those who have a copy does it include these sort of details (or it is
external decorative details like embroidery or ruching). My final question
is Amazon UK has two books listed one that's in print
http://tinyurl.com/oobv6x and one that's out of print
http://tinyurl.com/oapatu Does anyone know if there are any differences
between the editions apart from the cover?
Thanks
Elizabeth
---
Elizabeth Walpole   
Canberra, Australia 
http://magpiecostumer.110mb.com/

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Re: [h-cost] CC27 historical judge talks about workmanship and historical interpretation

2009-05-07 Thread appin1
As a two-time judge of historical clothing at CostumeCon and a viewer of this 
year's entrants, let me weigh in for a minute.

All judges have historical biases, but we're adult enough to put them aside. 
Besides, there are 3 people judging, so if one person hates 1950s styles, the 
other 2 might not. I didn't like the hat from the 1959 Dior pattern?-- frankly, 
I thought it looked like a wastebasket -- but the rest of the outfit was 
fabulous. If I thought for a minute I could have fit in that suit ... well, you 
get the point. On the other hand, there are other time periods I love, but 
that's not going to influence me either. A good job is a good job.

At the first CostumeCon I attended, one of the pattern companies (Simplicity, I 
think) offered a prize for the most creative use of its patterns. The winning 
outfit was Adrien Butterfield's Nazi uniform. I KNOW the judges hated that, but 
it was the best. 

Kathleen Norvell


-Original Message-
From: Andrew T Trembley 
To: Historical Costume 
Sent: Thu, 7 May 2009 6:43 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] CC27 historical judge talks about workmanship and 
historical interpretation


On May 7, 2009, at 2:03 PM, Heather Rose Jones wrote:?
> It's probably bad manners to say this on the list rather than > privately, 
> but I'm a bit concerned for what the lurkers might think > if this isn't 
> responded to.?
?
No, it's really not bad manners.?
?
> If that had been something I entered, I would be extremely hurt and > 
> horrified to see a judge talking about it in this fashion. A hat is > 
> "stupid" simply because you had a bad experience with '50s fashion? > An 
> entire historical fashion era makes you gag? I would find it > very difficult 
> to trust a judge to be impartial who expresses > opinions like this. You say 
> it "shouldn't" matter, but I'd look for > a bit more evidence that the judges 
> control their rendered judgement > better than their expressed opinions.?
?
There are no judges who don't have any stylistic biases. We need to admit that 
up front, rather than embrace a myth. A good masquerade director will consider 
the biases of potential judges and build a panel that provides balance.?
?
That said, some of the comments about entries are borderline at best. Like 
Vegas, what happens in the judging space should stay in the judging space, 
privy to only the judges, the clerk and the director, unless the entrant (and 
only the entrant) asks for critique from the judges. The goal is to encourage 
people to enter by rewarding excellent research and execution, not to scare 
them away by offering unsolicited criticism.?
?
andy?
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Re: [h-cost] CC27 historical judge talks about workmanship and historical interpretation

2009-05-07 Thread Andrew T Trembley

On May 7, 2009, at 2:03 PM, Heather Rose Jones wrote:
It's probably bad manners to say this on the list rather than  
privately, but I'm a bit concerned for what the lurkers might think  
if this isn't responded to.


No, it's really not bad manners.

If that had been something I entered, I would be extremely hurt and  
horrified to see a judge talking about it in this fashion.  A hat is  
"stupid" simply because you had a bad experience with '50s fashion?   
An entire historical fashion era makes you gag?  I would find it  
very difficult to trust a judge to be impartial who expresses  
opinions like this.  You say it "shouldn't" matter, but I'd look for  
a bit more evidence that the judges control their rendered judgement  
better than their expressed opinions.


There are no judges who don't have any stylistic biases. We need to  
admit that up front, rather than embrace a myth. A good masquerade  
director will consider the biases of potential judges and build a  
panel that provides balance.


That said, some of the comments about entries are borderline at best.  
Like Vegas, what happens in the judging space should stay in the  
judging space, privy to only the judges, the clerk and the director,  
unless the entrant (and only the entrant) asks for critique from the  
judges. The goal is to encourage people to enter by rewarding  
excellent research and execution, not to scare them away by offering  
unsolicited criticism.


andy
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Re: [h-cost] CC27 historical judge talks about workmanship and historical interpretation

2009-05-07 Thread Heather Rose Jones


On May 7, 2009, at 2:19 AM, Käthe Barrows wrote:


What if the judges don't like my historical period?
This shouldn't matter if they're honest.  Case in point, all three  
of us
judges gagged when we saw that someone was entering that 1959 Dior  
outfit.
We' were all old enough to have developed a bad taste for that  
period -
first hand.  (It's stuff like that that made me want to be  a  
Hippie.)  And
every contemporary 1959 detail she showed us, including that stupid  
hat,
only made us gag more.  But she could have walked right out of the  
Vogue
pattern envelope she showed us (all she had was the envelope, and  
she had to
modify another pattern to get what she wanted).  I can't think of  
much she

could have done better (except picking a period I liked).


It's probably bad manners to say this on the list rather than  
privately, but I'm a bit concerned for what the lurkers might think if  
this isn't responded to.


If that had been something I entered, I would be extremely hurt and  
horrified to see a judge talking about it in this fashion.  A hat is  
"stupid" simply because you had a bad experience with '50s fashion?   
An entire historical fashion era makes you gag?  I would find it very  
difficult to trust a judge to be impartial who expresses opinions like  
this.  You say it "shouldn't" matter, but I'd look for a bit more  
evidence that the judges control their rendered judgement better than  
their expressed opinions.


Heather Jones
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Re: [h-cost] CC27 historical judge talks about documentation

2009-05-07 Thread Käthe Barrows
Every set of historical judges will be different, but without your docs they
can't tell how well you did, and they'd just be guessing how well you knew
your stuff.

>
> Do I need compulsive documentation?
>>
>> No.  If you don't have any documentation, and if you're doing a period the
>> judges know a lot about anyway (or is commonly done), and if your
>> presentation is good and your construction is right up there, you stand a
>> chance to get an award.  You just can't get a doc award without docs.  And
>> you might lose out to another entry just as good as yours where the fact
>> that they had docs and you didn't was the tie-breaker.
>>
>
> This can be very important. I've judged two Historic masquerades. We had an
> fabulous entry in one of them that would have been a contender for Best in
> Show, except the entrant had no documentation. One third of score was
> eliminated, removing the contestant from consideration from Best in Show.
> The entry did take major awards in both Workmanship and Presentation. But
> without documentation it could not be considered for Best in Show.
>
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Re: [h-cost] CC27 historical judge talks about documentation

2009-05-07 Thread Pierre & Sandy Pettinger

At 05:42 PM 5/6/2009, you wrote:



Do I need compulsive documentation?

No.  If you don't have any documentation, and if you're doing a period the
judges know a lot about anyway (or is commonly done), and if your
presentation is good and your construction is right up there, you stand a
chance to get an award.  You just can't get a doc award without docs.  And
you might lose out to another entry just as good as yours where the fact
that they had docs and you didn't was the tie-breaker.



This can be very important. I've judged two Historic masquerades. We 
had an fabulous entry in one of them that would have been a contender 
for Best in Show, except the entrant had no documentation. One third 
of score was eliminated, removing the contestant from consideration 
from Best in Show. The entry did take major awards in both 
Workmanship and Presentation. But without documentation it could not 
be considered for Best in Show.


Pierre


"Those Who Fail to Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly -
Why They Are Simply Doomed."

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
-- C. Y. 4971

Andromeda 


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[h-cost] Quilted petticoat--earliest usage?

2009-05-07 Thread Carol Huff

Hi
I'm 2/3s done with the quilting on my petticoat. The question came up of 
how early these were used...I've seen mid 17th cent...any one have any 
earlier sightings? (can ya tell I jump from year 1 to 18th cent in one 
big hop? )

Ta
Carol
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Re: [h-cost] Video of Costume Designer Ann Roth

2009-05-07 Thread Sylvia Rognstad
Thanks, Penny, for sharing that.  I look forward to the next 2 parts,  
although the video stopped so many times it was frustrating to watch.


I really liked that she said at the beginning that she almost never  
thinks of making her costumes pretty or attractive, as this is one of  
the big differences in designing for theatre and designing fashion,  
and something that I don't think young students sometimes take into  
consideration when trying to decide on a design career.


Btw, I just noticed, and maybe it has been mentioned already but I  
missed it, that Bravo is starting a new fashion competition show  
tonight, since Project Runway is going to Lifetime.  It's being  
hosted by Isaac Mizrahi.


Sylvia R

On May 6, 2009, at 12:43 PM, Penny Ladnier wrote:


Film designer Ann Roth discussing making costumes:
http://www.makingof.com/insiders/media/ann/roth/ann-roth-on-costume- 
design/61/105


This is the first of a three part video.

Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
11 websites of fashion, textiles, costume history
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