Re: [h-cost] seam treatments
The skirts I have seen had seams finished by hand overcastting. But not with the seams together-you might need to let it out. ** With skirts this full, most letting out is done with redistributing the fabric as opposed to letting a seam out. Besides, the seam allowances are like 1/4 an inch! -Original Message- From: Kim Baird To: 'Historical Costume' Sent: Thu, Jul 1, 2010 7:06 pm Subject: Re: [h-cost] seam treatments The skirts I have seen had seams finished by hand overcastting. But not with the seams together-you might need to let it out. Kim BTW--I serge mine. Who's going to see them? -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Lisa A Ashton Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 5:15 PM To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: [h-cost] seam treatments Hello again. I"m working away on my Civil War era ensemble, and my question for today is: seam treatments for skirts--if I am using an unterlining, rather than a separately made lining, should the seams be finished in some way, left raw, or sewn together at the edge with a running stitch? Thanks in advance for the help. Yours in cosutming, Li saA ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] seam treatments
The most common treatment I've found on mid-19th century original garments has both seam allowances pressed to one side. If the selvage edge has been not been used, both seam allowances are overcast together. If the selvage edge has been used, then they're just pressed to one side. During this era seam allowances are usually not pressed open. This is what I've seen on actual garments. All I would add is, most skirts in mid 19th century are straight panels sewn selvage to selvage. The selvage edge is by far the most common thing I've seen. And on almost every one, the selvages have been clipped... a little diagonal snip every 6 to 8 inches maybe. Why? This keeps the selvage from drawing up and crinkling the seam. The snips are on the bias so they won't fray so much. Seam allowances are always tiny too. These days, selvage to selvage can be a little harder to do since most fabric now is 45" wide whereas back then it might be 36" or 22" or even 18". But 3 45" wide panels is about 4 yards and a good hem yardage. However in reality hems could be 31/2 yards wide, or just to get proportions right, 4 yards may be too much or not enough and some cutting off of selvages must be done to get seams and yardages to work out. I remember an 1840's gown in a silk that frayed easily had the back panels selvage to selvage, but the front panel was narrower and had no selvage edges. Those seams had seam allowances hand whipped overcast together as one. -Original Message- From: Lists To: 'Historical Costume' Sent: Thu, Jul 1, 2010 8:24 pm Subject: Re: [h-cost] seam treatments The most common treatment I've found on mid-19th century original garments has both seam allowances pressed to one side. If the selvage edge has been not been used, both seam allowances are overcast together. If the selvage edge has been used, then they're just pressed to one side. During this era seam allowances are usually not pressed open. The seam allowances on the bodice - side seams and shoulder seams - are usually pressed toward the back; skirt seams can go in either direction. Run-and-fell seams are very common on undergarments but very unusual on dresses. Regards, Carolann Schmitt cschm...@genteelarts.com www.genteelarts.com Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 3-6, 2011 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] seam treatments
Thank you so much--this was JUST what I wanted to know. In my case, I am actually using the selvages, but they don't show up on every seam, so I will probably just overcast everything to make it look consistent. I actually did flat-felled seams ont he hoops and will carry it through for hte other undergarments. Yours in costuming, Li saA On Thu, 1 Jul 2010 20:24:02 -0400 "Lists" writes: > The most common treatment I've found on mid-19th century original garments > has both seam allowances pressed to one side. If the selvage edge has been > not been used, both seam allowances are overcast together. If the selvage > edge has been used, then they're just pressed to one side. During this era > seam allowances are usually not pressed open. > > The seam allowances on the bodice - side seams and shoulder seams - are > usually pressed toward the back; skirt seams can go in either direction. > Run-and-fell seams are very common on undergarments but very unusual on > dresses. > > Regards, > Carolann Schmitt > cschm...@genteelarts.com > www.genteelarts.com > Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 3-6, 2011 > > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Secondary question - bride ?
Usually not the cuffs, unless the person I'm sewing for puts a lot of stress on that seam, but certainly on the side slits. I will do a bar tack on the seams where they open at the cuffs which is not a bride of course. And the side slits usually have a small gusset set into where they start to take the stress. But I also, if I have time, will do a bar tack at the points of all the gussets. I dunno if it's period or not but I'll bet it was done. It's just too sensible. -Original Message- From: Carmen Beaudry To: Historical Costume Sent: Thu, Jul 1, 2010 11:07 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] Secondary question - bride ? > That would certainly reinforce it. Do you do the same for the lower end of > > side seams when they are open flaps and the cuffs? > > Kate > Usually not the cuffs, unless the person I'm sewing for puts a lot of stress on that seam, but certainly on the side slits. Carmen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] seam treatments
The most common treatment I've found on mid-19th century original garments has both seam allowances pressed to one side. If the selvage edge has been not been used, both seam allowances are overcast together. If the selvage edge has been used, then they're just pressed to one side. During this era seam allowances are usually not pressed open. The seam allowances on the bodice - side seams and shoulder seams - are usually pressed toward the back; skirt seams can go in either direction. Run-and-fell seams are very common on undergarments but very unusual on dresses. Regards, Carolann Schmitt cschm...@genteelarts.com www.genteelarts.com Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 3-6, 2011 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] seam treatments
Actually, this is for a competition piece, so the judges ARE going to be looking at it. Do you mean, that each skirt panel is hand-overcasted separately? Because I"m not sure that makes sense--I was expecting, that after the seam was in, either #1) the raw seam edges were overcast together, #2) they were ironed to one side and flat-felled (by hand), or #3) the seam was ironed open, but then the raw edges were hand-tacked onto the lining. I am very willing to sit and do hand-hemmming and hand overcasting if needed. It's actually relaxing. I'm thrilled becasue I completed my hoops today even the hooks and loops, and they look great over the corset!!!And the bodice fits right, so only have to do the buttonholes. Now I"m working up hte skirt panels and getting ready to pleat the thing. Yours in cosutming, Lis aA On Thu, 1 Jul 2010 18:06:37 -0500 "Kim Baird" writes: > The skirts I have seen had seams finished by hand overcastting. But > not with > the seams together-you might need to let it out. > > Kim > > > BTW--I serge mine. Who's going to see them? > > -Original Message- > From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com > [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On > Behalf Of Lisa A Ashton > Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 5:15 PM > To: h-cost...@indra.com > Subject: [h-cost] seam treatments > > > Hello again. I"m working away on my Civil War era ensemble, and my > question for today is: seam treatments for skirts--if I am using > an > unterlining, rather than a separately made lining, should the seams > be > finished in some way, left raw, or sewn together at the edge with a > running stitch? > > Thanks in advance for the help. > > Yours in cosutming, Li saA > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] seam treatments
The skirts I have seen had seams finished by hand overcastting. But not with the seams together-you might need to let it out. Kim BTW--I serge mine. Who's going to see them? -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Lisa A Ashton Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 5:15 PM To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: [h-cost] seam treatments Hello again. I"m working away on my Civil War era ensemble, and my question for today is: seam treatments for skirts--if I am using an unterlining, rather than a separately made lining, should the seams be finished in some way, left raw, or sewn together at the edge with a running stitch? Thanks in advance for the help. Yours in cosutming, Li saA ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] seam treatments
Hello again. I"m working away on my Civil War era ensemble, and my question for today is: seam treatments for skirts--if I am using an unterlining, rather than a separately made lining, should the seams be finished in some way, left raw, or sewn together at the edge with a running stitch? Thanks in advance for the help. Yours in cosutming, Li saA ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Secondary question - bride ?
I do not, since neither is a slash, and the flat fell seam helps take any strain. I usually put gussets at the bottom of the side seams, but neither gets the same stress that the bottom of the neck opening. I also buttonhole stitch around the bottom of the slash, beyond the point where a rolled hem is workable. The bride/bar tack is sewed just above this. I guess that does make it sort of a button hole, but I never though of it that way before. -- Chris Bertani www.goblinrevolution.org/costumes On Thu, Jul 1, 2010 at 07:58, Kathryn Pinner wrote: > That would certainly reinforce it. Do you do the same for the lower end of > side seams when they are open flaps and the cuffs? > > Kate > > >> When using it as a neck opening slash reinforcement, do you think that it >> would be a short bar attached near the point on both sides, or would it be >> worked more like a buttonhole (or half a buttonhole) around the slash >> point catching the fabric? >> >> Thanks again, >> Kate > > I do both. I buttonhole stitch around the point of the slit, and then make > a bride about a 1/4 inch up from the slit. > > Carmen > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hill & Bucknell - re-drawings & source images
Hi Laurie, A quick google didn't turn up much but I did find this: da Monticello, Catarina [Joyce Cottrell] "Since You Ask: Hill & Bucknell Patterns for the 16th Century." Compleat Anachronist 40, 1988. Which led me, eventually, digging under the bed!, to Compleat Anachronists #38, 39 AND 40 which are titled "Costume Studies I-III, Articles from 'Seams like old times'". OK, they do dissect ALL the patterns that are SCA period, 1066-1595, and give sources where they were able to figure them out (including things like "yes, all these types of decor were available at this time, but never before seen all together in one outfit!") chimene PS. I've had a bee for years about doing this for Norris, but haven't started yet, 8-) Well, I take that back, I did do a paper once (Elf Hill Times #... good grief, #5, Jan 1979!), on shirts, for which I used Norris as a base, but did document all the sources... that paper's about half-way to the internet, 8-). At least Norris' patterns are somewhat period-like, and his drawings don't distort much (compared to H&B), although after 30+ years of experience with costume books, I can now see the 1880s-1920's in his drawings! Especially faces. Oh well, that was also the period of the birth of archaeology and the Victorian Medieval revival, definitely SCA sources!!! Hi, Have you heard of anyone having cross-reference the re-drawings in Hill & Bucknell's The Evolution of Fashion to the original artwork from which the re-drawings were taken? I know that the original artwork would not look like the re-drawings in terms of background and pose, but would still love to have them for my class discussion on primary and secondary sources. I may get lucky and stumble across some of these, but some will be more difficult or impossible without a possible starting point. I'm good at passing hours and hours looking at images on-line, so I will find some of them, but if I don't have to re-invent the wheel, that would be lovely. Laurie T. Phoenix ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Secondary question - bride ?
I've put little gussets there, but like the idea of a bride better. Thanks! Kate > That would certainly reinforce it. Do you do the same for the lower > end of side seams when they are open flaps and the cuffs? > > Kate > Usually not the cuffs, unless the person I'm sewing for puts a lot of stress on that seam, but certainly on the side slits. Carmen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Secondary question - bride ?
Same root word as _bridle_ I suspect. Attaches one thing to another :) == Marjorie Wilser =:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:= "Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement." --MW http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Jul 1, 2010, at 7:36 AM, Kathryn Pinner wrote: Thanks for all your input. I've used that technique for belt loops and tacking linings in place, but never knew the name "bride", and also never thought to use it as a reinforcement. When using it as a neck opening slash reinforcement, do you think that it would be a short bar attached near the point on both sides, or would it be worked more like a buttonhole (or half a buttonhole) around the slash point catching the fabric? Thanks again, Kate -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume- boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2010 8:07 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sewing term - bride - 18/19thc? Well, not so much modern as English, given that "bride" is the French term ;-) The modern term would be a tailor's bar. In a message dated 30/06/2010 19:15:28 GMT Daylight Time, h-costume-requ...@indra.com writes: In "Costume Close Up" by Linda Baumgarten & John Watson on page 107 describing a late 18th century shirt neck opening, the authors state "A buttonhole-stitched bride is worked at the point to reinforce the slashed opening. The bride appears to be a later replacement." I have never heard of the term "bride". Anyone know this term? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Secondary question - bride ?
That would certainly reinforce it. Do you do the same for the lower end of side seams when they are open flaps and the cuffs? Kate Usually not the cuffs, unless the person I'm sewing for puts a lot of stress on that seam, but certainly on the side slits. Carmen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Secondary question - bride ?
That would certainly reinforce it. Do you do the same for the lower end of side seams when they are open flaps and the cuffs? Kate > When using it as a neck opening slash reinforcement, do you think that it > would be a short bar attached near the point on both sides, or would it be > worked more like a buttonhole (or half a buttonhole) around the slash > point catching the fabric? > > Thanks again, > Kate I do both. I buttonhole stitch around the point of the slit, and then make a bride about a 1/4 inch up from the slit. Carmen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Secondary question - bride ?
- Original Message - From: "Kathryn Pinner" Subject: [h-cost] Secondary question - bride ? Thanks for all your input. I've used that technique for belt loops and tacking linings in place, but never knew the name "bride", and also never thought to use it as a reinforcement. When using it as a neck opening slash reinforcement, do you think that it would be a short bar attached near the point on both sides, or would it be worked more like a buttonhole (or half a buttonhole) around the slash point catching the fabric? Thanks again, Kate I do both. I buttonhole stitch around the point of the slit, and then make a bride about a 1/4 inch up from the slit. Carmen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Secondary question - bride ?
Thanks for all your input. I've used that technique for belt loops and tacking linings in place, but never knew the name "bride", and also never thought to use it as a reinforcement. When using it as a neck opening slash reinforcement, do you think that it would be a short bar attached near the point on both sides, or would it be worked more like a buttonhole (or half a buttonhole) around the slash point catching the fabric? Thanks again, Kate -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2010 8:07 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sewing term - bride - 18/19thc? Well, not so much modern as English, given that "bride" is the French term ;-) > > The modern term would be a tailor's bar. > > > In a message dated 30/06/2010 19:15:28 GMT Daylight Time, > h-costume-requ...@indra.com writes: > > In "Costume Close Up" by Linda Baumgarten & John Watson on page 107 > describing a late 18th century shirt neck opening, the authors state > "A buttonhole-stitched bride is worked at the point to reinforce the > slashed opening. > The bride appears to be a later replacement." > I have never heard of the term "bride". Anyone know this term? > > > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
