Re: [h-cost] h-costume Directory
Kate, Does the directory have a date on it? Penny Ladnier, owner The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com 15 websites of fashion, costume, and textile history FaceBook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Costume-Gallery-Websites/107498415961579 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Directory
Here are my copies: http://www.glove.org/h-costume_archives/ Franchesca : -Original Message- : From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume- : boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of penn...@costumegallery.com : Sent: Monday, August 08, 2011 10:27 PM : To: 'Historical Costume' : Subject: [h-cost] h-costume Directory : : Gosh, Carol...my directory is packed away. I compiled the directory : sometime between 1997-1999. I looked on all my master computer backups : and : can't find it. It might be backed up on a back-up tape (remember those) or : a floppy disk. I can still use floppy disk on my master computer. For some : reason I believe I printed it in 1998 when I ran the first online costume : ball. I do readily available all the costume post cards that h-costumers : mailed me for my postcard wall quilt. : : Who remembers being in the h-costume directory? : : I guess the newbies must think we were crazy in the beginnings...but we had : a blast on h-costume. Carol, I will never forget meeting you for the first : time in Williamsburg for the Quilt Fest. : : Penny Ladnier, owner : The Costume Gallery Websites : www.costumegallery.com : 15 websites of fashion, costume, and textile history : FaceBook: : http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Costume-Gallery- : Websites/107498415961579 : : ___ : h-costume mailing list : h-costume@mail.indra.com : http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 1845 button closure -- front or back?
I volunteer at our local historical site, which houses (among other things) a vast collection of 19th century underwear. Today we cleaned and packed a stack of circa 1845 ladies' shifts, all with a single button closure at the neck. The shifts were all marked with a stamped (not embroidered) monogram to facilitate laundry sorting, and always on the closure side of the shift. The monogram was never meant to be decorative. We worked under the assumption that these shifts were worn with the closure on the front, but then I had an epiphany... 1. One of the shifts had a stain of the sort that is commonly found on the back of ladies' underwear. On the closure side. 2. Why would a marking (stamped monogram) meant only to label a garment be put on the front? Wouldn't it be put on the back? -- they were all on the closure side. I am now tasked with finding the answer. Any thoughts? -Dede O'Hair ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Scaled drawings of original garments
Are you planning to broadcast via webcam so I can attend? :D I've not attempted to do this yet, and the only way I could imagine how to do it was put it on an overhead projector. I'm sure that's not what was intended. Natalie On 8/8/2011 12:48 PM, Maggie Halberg wrote: I'm teaching a workshop on how to scale up patterns of original garments that have been drawn out such as the ones you see from Janet Arnold. I'm trying to compile a lit of sources for these patterns. Other than the usual suspects of Janet Arnold and Jean Hunnisette does anyone have any sources for these types of patterns? Maggie Halberg ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Scaled drawings of original garments
Hi Natalie, The overhead projector is one option. The other is to use paper with a grid on it. Drafting supplies may have it, sometimes sewing supplies, or in desperate states you can draw your own grid on the large paper. The patterns in the books may or may not have grids on them. In the book, you can draw the grid in pencil or photocopy the page and draw the grid on the copy. Beware the units of measure, the book may have centimeters but if you have inch paper, you'll need to adjust. Here comes the tedious part: label the pattern page and your grid paper with the alphabet in one direction and numbers in the other. Now you have the squares as A-1, A-2, B-1, B-2 etc. Whatever is in A-1 of the pattern gets drawn into A-1 of your paper, and on and on. If the pattern has a straight edge, you can plot the points and draw the line with a yard stick. It is also possible to use the enlargement settings on a copier. This can get even more tedious, and copier settings are not necessarily true to size. These days, you can also scan the pattern out of the book and enlarge it in your computer. The grid method is what we did before people tended to have computers and scanners at home. :-) The computer enlargement is then printed onto several pieces of paper and taped together. As long as you are not distributing the scans in any way, you can make as many copies or printouts as you want. The next task is to adjust the pattern to the size of the person who will wear the garment. You might do some of this in your scaling, if the original garment was made for a smaller person. I'm sure the class will have techniques and tips beyond this, but that's the gist of it. -Carol On Aug 10, 2011, at 1:13 PM, Natalie wrote: Are you planning to broadcast via webcam so I can attend? :D I've not attempted to do this yet, and the only way I could imagine how to do it was put it on an overhead projector. I'm sure that's not what was intended. Natalie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1845 button closure -- front or back?
Dede, If by "the closure side" you mean the neck button side of the garment, it seems reasonable that the marking would be on the same side (the back and not the front). Back closing garments were not that uncommon, though many shifts did indeed close in front. Even if the marking were on the front, ladies' shifts were never intended to be viewed by anybody, so who would care where a laundry mark was placed? The stain may be indicative of use, as you surmise. I'm guessing it's a blood stain? However, if the lady had slaughtered a chicken she may have gotten blood on the front of her dress and underpinnings (just a thought here!), so you'd have to identify the source of the stain to assume back vs front. Are the front pattern pieces higher in the back than the front? I'd look for that: more allowance for back pieces to be worn a little higher. That would be a construction detail you may have missed while folding. It will be interesting to see what you come up with. Any photos which could be posted to the library? (or does indra have a library?) == Marjorie Wilser =:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:= "Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement." --MW http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Aug 10, 2011, at 9:56 AM, WorkroomButtons.com wrote: I volunteer at our local historical site, which houses (among other things) a vast collection of 19th century underwear. Today we cleaned and packed a stack of circa 1845 ladies' shifts, all with a single button closure at the neck. The shifts were all marked with a stamped (not embroidered) monogram to facilitate laundry sorting, and always on the closure side of the shift. The monogram was never meant to be decorative. We worked under the assumption that these shifts were worn with the closure on the front, but then I had an epiphany... 1. One of the shifts had a stain of the sort that is commonly found on the back of ladies' underwear. On the closure side. 2. Why would a marking (stamped monogram) meant only to label a garment be put on the front? Wouldn't it be put on the back? -- they were all on the closure side. I am now tasked with finding the answer. Any thoughts? -Dede O'Hair ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1845 button closure -- front or back?
Yes, the shift fronts (or backs) have an opening with button closure at the neck. The necks are very wide (shoulder-to-shoulder), and there does not appear to be a difference between front/back, height-wise. I have teenaged daughters, and let's just say I am familiar with that particular stain... We take (not great) documentation photos, and I'm not sure where the photos are being stored. The shifts (at least the stack we tackled today) were in near-perfect condition, save for staining caused by poor storage conditions. When I say "vast" collection I mean VAST -- our clothing collection has been described as the largest collection of American country clothing in existence... because generations of the Reed family never threw any of it away. -Dede --- On Wed, 8/10/11, Marjorie Wilser wrote: Dede, If by "the closure side" you mean the neck button side of the garment, it seems reasonable that the marking would be on the same side (the back and not the front). Back closing garments were not that uncommon, though many shifts did indeed close in front. Even if the marking were on the front, ladies' shifts were never intended to be viewed by anybody, so who would care where a laundry mark was placed? The stain may be indicative of use, as you surmise. I'm guessing it's a blood stain? However, if the lady had slaughtered a chicken she may have gotten blood on the front of her dress and underpinnings (just a thought here!), so you'd have to identify the source of the stain to assume back vs front. Are the front pattern pieces higher in the back than the front? I'd look for that: more allowance for back pieces to be worn a little higher. That would be a construction detail you may have missed while folding. It will be interesting to see what you come up with. Any photos which could be posted to the library? (or does indra have a library?) == Marjorie Wilser ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1845 button closure -- front or back?
What about the armholes? Is there a difference in depth that would indicate front and back. On 8/10/11 1:24 PM, "WorkroomButtons.com" wrote: > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1845 button closure -- front or back?
Armholes appear to be the same front/back, also -- same depth. No apparent difference. --- On Wed, 8/10/11, Nordtorp-Madson, Michelle A. wrote: What about the armholes? Is there a difference in depth that would indicate front and back. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1845 button closure -- front or back?
Mid-19th century shifts/chemises are a particular interest of mine. I own a couple of dozen and have probably examined 100+ in other collections. Laundry marks can be found on a variety of places: on the neckband or yoke, on the upper chest, on the inside of the front closure or placket, on the facing/reinforcement at the armscye, at the hip, near the hem, and probably a few other places I haven't personally encountered. The documentation I have to date indicates shifts/chemises from this era open in the front. The stain on the front of the garment could occur if the wearer tucked her chemise into her drawers. Regards, Carolann Schmitt www.genteelarts.com Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 1-4, 2012 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1845 button closure -- front or back?
I forgot to mention that each of the laundry marks, no matter what location, is on the front of the garment. Laundry marks can be found on a variety of places: on the neckband or yoke, on the upper chest, on the inside of the front closure or placket, on the facing/reinforcement at the armscye, at the hip, near the hem, and probably a few other places I haven't personally encountered. Regards, Carolann Schmitt www.genteelarts.com Ladies & Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 1-4, 2012 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1845 button closure -- front or back?
Even if the marking were on the front, ladies' shifts were never intended to be viewed by anybody, so who would care where a laundry mark was placed? I don't know about this. The chemises I've got are embroidered, and couched, especially on the narrow yolks and hems. Even if no one was meant to see them (but servants and the wearer) they certainly care how they look ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1845 button closure -- front or back?
Oh, that's very true too :) My grandmother monogrammed and embroidered hers, serving the dual purpose of marking and decoration at the same time. For a time reference: she was married in 1913. == Marjorie Wilser =:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:= "Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement." --MW http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Aug 10, 2011, at 9:53 PM, albert...@aol.com wrote: Even if the marking were on the front, ladies' shifts were never intended to be viewed by anybody, so who would care where a laundry mark was placed? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
