[h-cost] French titles - Mediaeval costume and textiles
You might be interested in this book - although it covers a much wider period it has a good mediaeval section. I bought myself a copy of "Rayures. une histoire et des tissus rayes" because the illustrations were excellent and struggled through enough of the French to get the basic idea. I was then thrilled to find that a translation had been done "The Devil's Cloth: A History of Stripes and Striped Fabric" - much smaller book, far fewer illustrations and in black and white - I think the complete text but my French is really not good enough to say for sure. The French title is - Rayures: Une histoire des rayures et des tissus rayes by Michel Pastoureau ISBN 2020236664. Publisher Seuil (1995). It is out of print but Amazon has one copy available in the USA at £15.26. The translation is - The Devil's Cloth: A History of Stripes and Striped Fabric (European Perspectives: A Series in Social Thought and Cultural Criticism) ISBN 0231123663 . Columbia University Press (2001). Amazon has plenty of copies starting from £7.99. Viv. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Which end of the thread?
This is not exactly historical but it is about hand-sewing, so... I have always thought that you thread the end that comes off the spool first through the needle. But today I was reading one of those 'useful hints' books which said you should thread the other end first to prevent knots! Any thoughts? Viv. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Victorian corset on UK TV
Any UK list members see Jeremy Paxman's series on the Victorians last night? He spoke to a lady who collected Victorian ladies' costume, and much was made of the discomfort/restriction of wearing a corset. She then appeared in Victorian underwear and got Jeremy to lace up her corset, supposedly to show how a lady couldn't dress herself; however, in close-up you could clearly see the hooks in the front that should have enabled her to do so! Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor. Exactly what I thought! Beautiful corset though! Viv. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What kind of fur would you use for this?
I looked up Jean Hunnisett because I remember her saying she had made the Arnolfini dress. She includes the dress in "Period Costume for Stage and Screen: Medieval - 1500" but doesn't say what fur she used. You might be interested in her comments, bearing in mind (as she always said) that her costumes are for stage and TV. Viv. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 18th century Tricorn hats....on back of head
I think this might be the painting you are thinking of - it is 'Mr and Mrs Andrews' by Gainsborough. This is a link to the painting in the National Gallery - http://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/cgi-bin/WebObjects.dll/CollectionPublisher.woa/wa/work?workNumber=NG6301 Best wishes Viv The military cocked hat is also cocked differently from the equilaterally cocked hat. There are portraits that show the hat tipped back, not just parodies. The one that comes to mind immediately is a sporting painting however. I will try to look up the name and artist, I know I have a copy of it around here somewhere. I have seen two that I can remember, which I only remember because I hate the look and was surprised to see it. It looks so Disney. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1960s hippie fashions - England
The film I remember which brought in the long look was Doctor Zhivago, which came out here in 1966. But it was about long coats; they were worn with mini skirts and often, boots. I think the hippy/romantic look was when our skirts went right down - oh those cheesecloth kaftans! Best wishes Viv. In Southern California (probably the rest of California too) long skirts came in with the Hippie look. Bonnie Parker's skirts were much straighter than ours, which were either tiered or gathered and very full. I remember these skirts when I was still in high school, before the film came out. My recollection, as a teenager in the English Midlands, is that "maxi" (i.e. calf-length) skirts came in with the film "Bonnie & Clyde" in 1967-8. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Help! Enlarging with a photocopier
"My other goal for today that didn't happen was to try just the photocopying method. Is there any particular number of times that anyone knows of that I should enlarge each scaled down peice? If the pieces are 1/4 scale, would that mean I'd enlarge them 75%? Oy, math definitely isn't my cup of tea, I'm just wishing now the author was more clear on how to scale up. It sort of leaves no purpose to have patterns if one has to pretty much redraw each peice!?" I have used a photocopier to enlarge lettering for a banner but not for pattern pieces. Unfortunately you can't just enlarge, say one inch to four inches, by using 400% - the photocopier enlarges by area not length. I just experimented until I got the right size - most photocopiers let you set a 'custom' %. You will probably have to enlarge your first size and then enlarge your enlargements! You just need time and to be ready for 'millions' of sheets of paper. But once you have it worked out you can get your pieces and sellotape them together! Good luck Viv ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Embroidered Jacket
Hello Susan. There is a photograph (unfortunately black and white) of the back of a jacket which looks like the one you are after. If not it is a very similar design. The picture is about 3" by 2" but shows the whole back well enough to see the embroidery. It is in "English Domestic Needlework" by Therle Hughes. Published by Abbey Fine Arts - this is the edition in Amazon.com - http://www.amazon.com/English-Domestic-Needlework-Therle-Hughes/dp/B0016889B2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1252936574&sr=1-2 $14 including p+p. The V&A has an embroidered Jacket (Accession 919-1873) http://collections.vam.ac.uk/objectid/O80226 Does anybody have a picture of the *back* of the jacket? I'm trying to get a feel for the pattern, the snippet in King & Levey isn't big enough -- and the front, is ... well, the front! Thanks! Susan/jerusha ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 17c jacket sewing advice
Hi Kate Renaissance tailor has a good guide here - http://www.renaissancetailor.com/demos_goresgussets.htm . Unless the gore is very long, I prefer to sew by hand as it ie easier to manipulate the fabric. Good luck with your project. Viv. I have at last started on a long-planned project to make myself a 17th-century jacket (for when I need extra warmth). I'm using a pattern from "The cut of women's clothes" that has triangular gussets in the skirts. Now, as a not-very-competent needlewoman, I'm finding it difficult to get the points of the gussets to fit neatly. I'm only working with the lining material as yet, and have only tacked the pieces together. Can anyone offer any advice before I start sewing properly? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] List of Hunnisett Films?
When I did a course with Jean, she mentioned the Arnolfini dress - It is quite a while ago but I am pretty sure she said she made it for a television programme. I can't remember if she said which programme - sorry. Best wishes Viv. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Textiles in the fifteenth century
Please, can anyone recommend to me a really reliable source for information about the sorts of textiles, especially silk, being used in England in the fifteenth century? Hi Linda, You have probably already tried these but they are the books in my collection which cover the earliest periods. I realise they are later than your research but thought they might have some of the same names. 'English Domestic Needlework 1660-1860' by Therle Hughes 'Elizabethan Embroidery' by George Wingfield Digby When I was researching some local Wills, I found a definition of 'harden' (of sheets) in the Full Oxford Dictionary. My local Library has it on-line for members. It might be worth looking up some of the original terms or the more modern 'definitions'. By the way - harden is a rough type of linen woven from the coarser parts of flax or hemp separated in hackling. Good luch with your research. Viv. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Coutil origins
The Oxford English Dictionary gives - Coutil. (a. F. coutil, (kuti), in 13th. c. keutil, f. keute, coute, mattress, quilt.) A close-woven sort of canvas, used for mattresses, pillows, and in stay- making. Perhaps some of these alternate spellings may help. Best wishes Viv. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Movie Costume Question: McGonagall's Yule Ensemble
How about this - Good large picture, especially fabric and sleeve cuff - http://www.cinematicwallpaper.com/movie-pictures/Harry_Potter_7_wallpaper/Harry_Potter7_mcgonagall Best wishes Viv ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] measurement chart
Having been in this situation may I offer some advice. If at all possible ask her to find someone with dressmaking skills to measure her - and stress that the measurements are about accuracy and not vanity! A recent photo can also be very useful to show things like the slope of a shoulder or posture. Hope I am not 'stating the obvious'. Viv -Original Message- From: humbugfo...@att.net Sent: Monday, September 16, 2013 1:27 AM To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Subject: [h-cost] measurement chart I am going to be making a Regency outfit for a friend who lives on the other side of the country. Since there won't be any chance to fit it, I need to get the most exhaustive set of measurements possible. Can any suggest a site that has a fill-in measurement chart that is really detailed, that I can send her? Like, not just bust and waist measurement, but bust and then under-bust, upper arm circumference, side-seam (underarm to waist), shoulder to shoulder across the back, and so on. The sort of measurements you'd need to construct a detailed garment with. I've tried searching but apparently I'm not using the right search terms. I keep getting charts with sizing on them, not blanks to be filled in. Thanks! Julie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Who's still here? & smock question
Hello Susan As Catherine says there are several smocks in the V & A. This is their collections page - http://www.vam.ac.uk/page/t/the-collections/ You can search on 'smock'. There are several early women's smocks and the traditional work smocks. Another title you may be interested in is 'The Countryman's Smock' by Anne Buck - reprint from Folk Life; it does not mention any smocks being for women. I think it must be a very rare title, it is not listed on Amazon but you may be able to find a copy. In the UK we are able to request books from the British Library through our local libraries, a wonderful service. Do you have anything similar? Viv. -Original Message- From: Catherine Walton Sent: Saturday, December 19, 2015 7:02 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Who's still here? & smock question I have the Shire book by Alice Armes, "English Smocks", (9th ed., Dryad Press Ltd., London, 1987). The section on the history of the English smock only refers to men wearing smocks, but there is a later section on the trade emblems embroidered on the smocks includes: "Milkmaids - churns, butter pats, hearts, etc.". An embroidery pattern included with the book is for these symbols. It also says that: "Elaborately decorated smocks were not produced before the middle of the eighteenth century, and they reached their greatest perfection in the early part of the nineteenth century." Two of the illustrations are photographs of smocks in the Victoria and Albert Museum, so their site could be worth a search; others are from county museums, such as the Castle Museum, Nottingham. Catherine. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costumes in "War and Peace"
I too noticed the the off the shoulder dresses and was also doubtful about the thin cotton dresses the young girls were wearing. I am having to read the book again, have been meaning to for years! By the way, Natashia's dresses are described as muslin with pantaloons. I like the uniforms but I don't know enough to say if they are accurate; they look good. I have worked in theatre and re-enactment and understand the compromises that have to be made, but I do like to feel that the overall look of a production is 'right'. The dresses jarred on me too and I don't think that mentioning that is snarking. I have always felt that my enthusiasm for costume means I have a greater interest and if that sometimes makes me critical of things I don't think are quite right, it also makes me much more appreciative of things that are well done. Viv Watkins -Original Message- From: Kate Bunting Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2016 9:18 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costumes in "War and Peace" I wasn't snarking, merely asking for information. I thought the bare shoulders were wrong for the period, even as "extreme" fashion, and wanted to confirm my opinion. Kate Bunting ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costumes in "War and Peace"
There is a fascinating book - "Hollywood and History - Costume Design in Film" which looks how costume designers present historical dress. It was published in 1988 to accompany an exhibition mounted at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. Part of the foreword says "Contemporary viewers are not aware that the costumes reflect their own standards of style and beauty - that the cave-dwellers' costumes are cut to emphasise the 1940's silhouette, that the antebellum dresses are made with 1930's bias-cut fabrics. It is only with the passage of time that one can see clearly how all-pervasive the designer's contemporary aesthetics have been." It is one of my favourite costume books, it has given me an extra layer of fun when I watch the wonderful old movies. Viv Watkins. -Original Message- From: R Lloyd Mitchell Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2016 3:20 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Costumes in "War and Peace" Re the styles of dresses, I still have to chuckle at the 18th C interpretions in films of the '20s-30s where the gowns have dropped waists. In an earlier production of W&P the fashion tone is Audrey Hepburn all the way. It seems that one can peg the date of the film release by the tweaked styles that give a nod to contemporary fashion. Other interesting film studies are the costumes for Victoria and Albert and Dr Zhivago.The latter spawned a popular contemporary Fashion..the Maxie dress line. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
