Re: [h-cost] 1490s Spanish help

2008-06-13 Thread Bonnie Booker
On Thu, Jun 12, 2008 at 11:21 AM, Lynn Roth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I usually just lurk on this list and occasionally ask questions or respond.  
 My question is when making a dress like this one with a close front bodice, 
 where do you put the lacing?  I've read if it's english that it goes in the 
 back, but haven't been able to confirm or deny this.  Also, if you were doing 
 a spanish one, where would the lacing go?  Did they always use lacing in this 
 period or did they also use hookand eye, and if so where did they use 
 it.Lllynn

Juan de Alcega was printed in a later period, however the styles
seemed not to move much in Spain after the beginning of the 15th c.
There were many different styles, they were the leaders at the time.
The Hispanic Costume Book shows where they fasten up with an open
front, closed laced front, back  and side closures. I can't see what
kind of closures.
Yes, many of them with the over robe and high waist look like they
could be pregnant, even the children. What a good coverup.

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Aspasia Moonwind
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Re: [h-cost] 1490s Spanish help

2008-06-12 Thread Lynn Roth
I usually just lurk on this list and occasionally ask questions or respond.  My 
question is when making a dress like this one with a close front bodice, where 
do you put the lacing?  I've read if it's english that it goes in the back, but 
haven't been able to confirm or deny this.  Also, if you were doing a spanish 
one, where would the lacing go?  Did they always use lacing in this period or 
did they also use hookand eye, and if so where did they use it.Lllynn

Bonnie Booker [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:   least one figure in the Herod scene 
has a close front bodice and if
 you haven't already started the bodice that might be a way to go.
 http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/o/ordonez/d_felipe.html
 http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/j/juan/1/lazarus2.html
 http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/j/juan/1/herodias.html
 http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/b/borgona/ladyhare.html
 http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/g/gallego/catholic.html
 Those are examples from 1490-1515 with the closed front and no hoops.
 I think the bust portrait you have (also on WGA and by Juan de
 Flandres) is of a no hooped sort too.


Thanks for the help. What really caught my eye was the portrait of
Juana la Loca. I looked for a bodice in the 1490s that carried out
that theme. I have the kirtle underneath. The bodice is cut out and
the eyes bought for the laces. I have a lot of embroidery throughout.
I have most of my good gowns with closed bodices, lacing in the back,
side, front. I wanted something I had nothing of for some special silk
a friend brought me back from China. I have had to study completely
new cuts and ideas for this. I love the ideas.
-- 
Aspasia Moonwind
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Re: [h-cost] 1490s Spanish help

2008-06-12 Thread michaela de bruce
 I usually just lurk on this list and occasionally ask questions or respond.  
 My question is when making a dress like this one with a close front bodice, 
 where do you put the lacing?  I've read if it's english that it goes in the 
 back, but haven't been able to confirm or deny this.  Also, if you were doing 
 a spanish one, where would the lacing go?  Did they always use lacing in this 
 period or did they also use hookand eye, and if so where did they use 
 it.Lllynn

Side or side back would be my bet. You see either in Italian and
Flemish art of a time just before and after and much later in the
16thC Alcega has a pattern for a kirtle with bodice that has the
closure side back (the front and back bodice pieces are on the fold,
same with front and back of the skirt).

http://www.alfayomega.es/estatico/anteriores/alfayomega336/enportada/ep_reportaje2.html
This is the image I mentioned earlier that shows hoops worn by real
people but that has the open gown.
What is interesting about this image is that it shows a high waist.
There is a legend that the hoops came about to hide a pregnancy.
Doesn't this high waist with hoops support this idea rather more than
a regular waisted garment? No idea if it is true or not but I could
believe the rumour started after seeing this particular style!

Regards,
Michaela de Bruce
http://glittersweet.com
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Re: [h-cost] 1490s Spanish help

2008-06-08 Thread Bonnie Booker
 least one figure in the Herod scene has a close front bodice and if
 you haven't already started the bodice that might be a way to go.
 http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/o/ordonez/d_felipe.html
 http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/j/juan/1/lazarus2.html
 http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/j/juan/1/herodias.html
 http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/b/borgona/ladyhare.html
 http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/g/gallego/catholic.html
 Those are examples from 1490-1515 with the closed front and no hoops.
 I think the bust portrait you have (also on WGA and by Juan de
 Flandres) is of a no hooped sort too.


Thanks for the help. What really caught my eye was the portrait of
Juana la Loca. I looked for a bodice in the 1490s that carried out
that theme. I have the kirtle underneath. The bodice is cut out and
the eyes bought for the laces. I have a lot of embroidery throughout.
I have most of my good gowns with closed bodices, lacing in the back,
side, front. I wanted something I had nothing of for some special silk
a friend brought me back from China. I have had to study completely
new cuts and ideas for this. I love the ideas.
-- 
Aspasia Moonwind
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Re: [h-cost] 1490s Spanish help

2008-06-06 Thread Bonnie Booker
Thanks. That was what I was thinking, but I wanted confirmation. You
can see what I'm working on at www.myspace/1aspasia.com It isn't one
dress, but a combination. I'm in a wheel chair and can't do hoops. It
has been a while since I have updated, but just my running thoughts
and pictures and documentation as I go.


 On an educated guess, since you didn't post an image you are working from, 
 but I am thinking the skirt also opens in front, as a slit down from the 
 laced opening a short ways, just enough to help you get the dress over the 
 head.

 That is what I will be doing with my 1500s working dress I am working on.




 I'm working on a 1490 Hispanic court gown. I'm
 getting ready to attach
 the skirt. It is open in the front and laces in the front.
 It is open
 like the German gowns with laces across. Can anyone tell me
 how the
 skirt opens?


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Re: [h-cost] 1490s Spanish help

2008-06-06 Thread Kimiko Small

I can't seem to access your site. Is the url correct?

Kimiko


--- On Fri, 6/6/08, Bonnie Booker [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 From: Bonnie Booker [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1490s Spanish help
 To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: Friday, June 6, 2008, 11:27 AM
 Thanks. That was what I was thinking, but I wanted
 confirmation. You
 can see what I'm working on at www.myspace/1aspasia.com
snip


  
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Re: [h-cost] 1490s Spanish help

2008-06-06 Thread michaela de bruce
  Thanks. That was what I was thinking, but I wanted
   confirmation. You
   can see what I'm working on at www.myspace/1aspasia.com

http://www.myspace.com/1aspasia (no .com after that)
Best to copy and paste as, in my mail anyway, the automatic linking
started from the 1 last time ;)

You also need to be a member of myspace (which I am, geek*) to see the
photos. I'm not sure which of the images you are aiming for but at
least one figure in the Herod scene has a close front bodice and if
you haven't already started the bodice that might be a way to go.
http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/o/ordonez/d_felipe.html
http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/j/juan/1/lazarus2.html
http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/j/juan/1/herodias.html
http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/b/borgona/ladyhare.html
http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/g/gallego/catholic.html
Those are examples from 1490-1515 with the closed front and no hoops.
I think the bust portrait you have (also on WGA and by Juan de
Flandres) is of a no hooped sort too.

All the images I've seen show no indication that the gowns open below
the waist of the skirt. Most lacing visibly finishes at the waist,
such as the two main figures in the Herod image.
I have seen, and cannot find it again, a c1500s painting with the
Madonna weeping and what may be side lacing. But I cant find it again
so that may be poor memory.


Regards,
Michaela
http://costumes.glittersweet.com

*lj, blogger, myspace, facebook, yahoo groups**, tribe and lots of
fora online
** Yahoo only just left me back in after a few months of bad coding
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Re: [h-cost] 1490s Spanish help

2008-06-06 Thread Kathleen Hanrahan
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Hash: SHA1

Kimiko,

Kimiko Small wrote:
| I can't seem to access your site. Is the url correct?

I think that this is it:
http://www.myspace.com/1aspasia

Kathleen

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[h-cost] 1490s Spanish help

2008-06-05 Thread Bonnie Booker
I'm working on a 1490 Hispanic court gown. I'm getting ready to attach
the skirt. It is open in the front and laces in the front. It is open
like the German gowns with laces across. Can anyone tell me how the
skirt opens?

-- 
Aspasia Moonwind
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Re: [h-cost] 1490s Spanish help

2008-06-05 Thread Kimiko Small
On an educated guess, since you didn't post an image you are working from, but 
I am thinking the skirt also opens in front, as a slit down from the laced 
opening a short ways, just enough to help you get the dress over the head.

That is what I will be doing with my 1500s working dress I am working on.

Kimiko


--- On Thu, 6/5/08, Bonnie Booker [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 From: Bonnie Booker [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [h-cost] 1490s Spanish help
 To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: Thursday, June 5, 2008, 8:39 AM
 I'm working on a 1490 Hispanic court gown. I'm
 getting ready to attach
 the skirt. It is open in the front and laces in the front.
 It is open
 like the German gowns with laces across. Can anyone tell me
 how the
 skirt opens?
 
 -- 
 Aspasia Moonwind
 ___


  
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