Re: [h-cost] Goldwork
In case there's anyone who hasn't discovered it yet, there is lots of expertise on goldwork (as well as lots of other subjects) on the Historic Needlework list, which is hosted at: http://www.ansteorra.org/mailman/listinfo/h-needlework I know there's at least one expert on Elizabethan sweet bags on the list (not me!) :) The H-Needlework list is actually a "child" of this list, in that it started from a discussion here of the idea that there ought to be a place where both costume-related and non-costume-related needlework could be discussed at length. It's a good bunch of folks and (need I say) very helpful. 0 Chris Laning | <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> + Davis, California http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Goldwork
Sorry, forgot to tell that the pouch is made in red silk taffeta. Bjarne - Original Message - From: "G.Vinje" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2006 10:54 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Goldwork On Thu, 2 Mar 2006 14:45:55 -0600, E House <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Does anyone know of any good resources for learning about the authentic stuff? Any suggestions for modern books that might help me with technique? If you want one book that covers just about everything there is to cover except patterns; Metal thread embroidery by Jane Lemon Batsford (March 28, 2005) ISBN 071348926X It covers historical and modern stitches, thread, techniques,equipment,photoes of extant pieces including Elisabethan and more. I have bought others, but this is the one I keep returning to. And the only one I've found truly useful for historical goldwork anytime within my period of interest(1200-1670). Some websites worth looking at ; Or Nue http://medieval.webcon.net.au/technique_or_nue.html Or Nue (Shaded Gold) http://www.advancenet.net/jscole/ornue.html And a brief introduction to historical goldwork; All that glitters... http://www.bayrose.org/wkneedle/Articles/Goldwork.html Gunvor -- "Jeg har sagt ja og nei og DA får du lov" Anders (nesten 4 år) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Goldwork
Thank you all for the great book & website suggestions. I now have someplace to start! And Bjarne, thank you for the warnings! I will definitely have to re-think at least my dream project, which had very pretty, very allegorical, and very impractical goldwork at the hem & sleeves. However, I think it should still work for the realistic headwear applications I was planning. Looking at portraits is what got me in this trouble in the first place! =} About 4 out of 5 depictions of my favorite headwear show goldwork; only about 1 in 30 non-allegorical gowns from my era have it, but it's oooh so pretty when they do. And about 15-20 years later it gets downright common on gowns; I may have to dabble in the 1540s! (I knew it had to happen someday... I just keep edging slightly later. Over the past 10 years or so, my time period has edged from c1380-1420 all the way forward to c1490-1525, with lots of stops in between!) Thanks, E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Goldwork
Quoting E House <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>: I don't waste anywhere near enough money on my sewing (HAH!) so now that I work for my fabric instead of paying for it, I've decided to add on a nice, stupidly expensive hobby: I want to get into goldwork! Specifically, the sort that would be used for embellishing garments and headwear in the early 16th century. But being me, I have to be as authentic as I can... and I really have no idea where to start with the research. I didn't realize that I hadn't addressed the first part of your email. Or nue wasn't something that you'd normally see on garb. Alot of what you would see in the 16th century was blackwork, maybe smocking on chemise necklines, etc. Paintings are going to be your friend here to help you see what kind of stuff was done in the specific locale and time period that you're wanting. You see metal thread on some Elizabethan Coifs. If you're doing Tudor English, look at paintings of Henry and his wives for early 16th century for your best tips. Jerusha - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] University of Tennessee Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Goldwork
It looks like some of the gold work done on the Japanese fabrics I saw in school. The gold was wrapped around a silk thread but you had to have an eyepiece to see it that close. It was fantastic details in the antique fabrics. I don't remember the time period, but very old. I'd love to learn more about this technique as well. Thanks for the inspiration. - Original Message - From: "E House" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Historical Costume" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2006 3:45 PM Subject: [h-cost] Goldwork I don't waste anywhere near enough money on my sewing (HAH!) so now that I work for my fabric instead of paying for it, I've decided to add on a nice, stupidly expensive hobby: I want to get into goldwork! Specifically, the sort that would be used for embellishing garments and headwear in the early 16th century. But being me, I have to be as authentic as I can... and I really have no idea where to start with the research. (The best website I've found so far for the type of goldwork I'm interested in is this, even though she does the modern stuff: http://www.berlinembroidery.com/bullions.htm http://www.berlinembroidery.com/goldwork.htm ) Does anyone know of any good resources for learning about the authentic stuff? Any suggestions for modern books that might help me with technique? I started embroidering when I was 7 or 8, so I do have experience with that angle of it, but I think a lot of that just doesn't translate. And it's not the sort of thing where I'd want to spend tons of time experimenting blind, because even the cheap version of the silly stuff is so expensive per yard. And is this what was called Or Nue'? -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Or nue (was Re: [h-cost] Goldwork
Quoting E House <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>: And is this what was called Or Nue'? Or nue is some of the most awesome needlework ever produced by human hands. The cardinal is Or Nue http://www.berlinembroidery.com/cardinal.htm The gold threads are couched down with red silk. How close together the couching stitches are makes the design. Here's some pictures http://rubens.anu.edu.au/raid4/austria/vienna/museums/schatzkammer/order_of_the_golden_fleece/liturgical_vestments/ http://www.khm.at/system2E.html?/staticE/page486.html http://www.khm.at/system2E.html?/staticE/page473.html There's a book on the painter Campin by Thurleman that has some of the most awesome enlargements for these garments. Campin is believed to have produced the cartoons for the vestments. Here's a figure that I scanned from this book http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/SCA/Embroidery/OGF_campinPage166top.jpg http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/SCA/Embroidery/OGF_campinPage166.jpg generally, the faces and hands are done in split stitch. Jerusha -- who will learn to do this or die! - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] University of Tennessee Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Goldwork
1st: Dont buy or borrow Kreinicks book about metal thread embroidery. Its just crap, a lot of cross stitch patterns using metallic threads. But a very useable good book, very small, but cheap is Needle Crafts 20 Goldwork. Its published by Search Press Limited, Tunbridge Wells, Kent - England. Also their larger book Goldwork Revised and expanded edition. I started my goldwork to outline ordinary embroideries, f.eks flowers and leaves with gold passing thread. Then i went on and used bullion threads (hollow wrapped goldthreads (worms)). Goldspangels is also fun to use. Silver is another thing. It tarnishes much two quicly, and today its almost impossible to clean by others than experts. A warning i want to advise everybody about is using bullion threads on clothing. The ends of this fine goldthread, catches everything, and unravell itselfs. I spoke to Mauritia Kirchner about this recently, and she has the same problems.Wasnt a problem for the kings and nobels, they just baught a new outfit, but for us deadly, it is such a shame and expensive.Not a warning not to use it, but just that you wont get surprised! Very adictive hobby! Bjarne Leif og Bjarne Drews www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Goldwork
The book I have is called "Goldwork" by Search Press. It has some history in it and shows how to do each of the techniques for goldwork. I've heard that the Jane Lemon book is the best though. Or nue' is the stitching of metal threads with a fine colored thread to make shaded or colored patterns. The gold threads cover the whole surface of the design and the spacing of the color stitching is varied to show more or less gold. Roscelin Well, I'm off to get packed to attend the Sewing Expo up in Puyallup, WA. -- Original message -- From: "E House" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > I don't waste anywhere near enough money on my sewing (HAH!) so now that I > work for my fabric instead of paying for it, I've decided to add on a nice, > stupidly expensive hobby: I want to get into goldwork! Specifically, the > sort that would be used for embellishing garments and headwear in the early > 16th century. But being me, I have to be as authentic as I can... and I > really have no idea where to start with the research. > > (The best website I've found so far for the type of goldwork I'm interested > in is this, even though she does the modern stuff: > http://www.berlinembroidery.com/bullions.htm > http://www.berlinembroidery.com/goldwork.htm ) > > Does anyone know of any good resources for learning about the authentic > stuff? Any suggestions for modern books that might help me with technique? > I started embroidering when I was 7 or 8, so I do have experience with that > angle of it, but I think a lot of that just doesn't translate. And it's not > the sort of thing where I'd want to spend tons of time experimenting blind, > because even the cheap version of the silly stuff is so expensive per yard. > > Andr is this what was called Or Nue'? > > -E House > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Goldwork
On Thu, 2 Mar 2006 14:45:55 -0600, E House <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Does anyone know of any good resources for learning about the authentic stuff? Any suggestions for modern books that might help me with technique? If you want one book that covers just about everything there is to cover except patterns; Metal thread embroidery by Jane Lemon Batsford (March 28, 2005) ISBN 071348926X It covers historical and modern stitches, thread, techniques,equipment,photoes of extant pieces including Elisabethan and more. I have bought others, but this is the one I keep returning to. And the only one I've found truly useful for historical goldwork anytime within my period of interest(1200-1670). Some websites worth looking at ; Or Nue http://medieval.webcon.net.au/technique_or_nue.html Or Nue (Shaded Gold) http://www.advancenet.net/jscole/ornue.html And a brief introduction to historical goldwork; All that glitters... http://www.bayrose.org/wkneedle/Articles/Goldwork.html Gunvor -- "Jeg har sagt ja og nei og DA får du lov" Anders (nesten 4 år) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Goldwork
I don't waste anywhere near enough money on my sewing (HAH!) so now that I work for my fabric instead of paying for it, I've decided to add on a nice, stupidly expensive hobby: I want to get into goldwork! Specifically, the sort that would be used for embellishing garments and headwear in the early 16th century. But being me, I have to be as authentic as I can... and I really have no idea where to start with the research. (The best website I've found so far for the type of goldwork I'm interested in is this, even though she does the modern stuff: http://www.berlinembroidery.com/bullions.htm http://www.berlinembroidery.com/goldwork.htm ) Does anyone know of any good resources for learning about the authentic stuff? Any suggestions for modern books that might help me with technique? I started embroidering when I was 7 or 8, so I do have experience with that angle of it, but I think a lot of that just doesn't translate. And it's not the sort of thing where I'd want to spend tons of time experimenting blind, because even the cheap version of the silly stuff is so expensive per yard. And is this what was called Or Nue'? -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
