Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread
>> So, what was your solution; different brand/style of needles, or no more >> silk thread? >> Just Curious! Betsy Sorry I hit send too soon. I wanted to say I didn't use silk thread, but I was using very fine synthetic thread (my brain wants me to say rayon but it might have been nylon). It kept shredding and being generally very annoying, until I changed my needle. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread
On Thu, May 15, 2008 at 5:19 AM, Betsy Marshall <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > So, what was your solution; different brand/style of needles, or no more > silk thread? > Just Curious! Betsy > In my case, new needles. The type, size and brand of needle also makes a difference. Your dealer should know which ones are better with what kind of thread. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread
So, what was your solution; different brand/style of needles, or no more silk thread? Just Curious! Betsy -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 10:22 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread > My new > computerised Viking sews fine with brands like Metrosene and Mettler, > but shreds silk thread. When I had that problem with my Viking I found out it was the needle, not the machine, that was shredding the thread. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread
> My new > computerised Viking sews fine with brands like Metrosene and Mettler, > but shreds silk thread. When I had that problem with my Viking I found out it was the needle, not the machine, that was shredding the thread. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread
You can use the serger a bit and be historically accurate for early 20th century dresses. I have a lingerie dress, lightweight cotton with lace insertion, from approx 1905, with some overlocked/serged seams. I had a very early Viking home serger, bought about 25 years ago, that was always such a pain to thread and the tension would get screwed up easily. I haven't had a working serger for about 10 years now and I miss it. Does anyone have a recent Viking serger, any recommendations? Katy On Sun, May 11, 2008 at 8:27 PM, Sylvia Rognstad <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I think it is necessary for woven fabrics, not so for knits, since they > don't fray. Of course, if you're doing historically accurate costumes, > you probably don't want to serge them, but since I'm not into that, I > always serge, and can't stand costumes or clothing that aren't serged > anymore > > Sylvia > > On May 11, 2008, at 5:35 PM, Lavolta Press wrote: > >> I've never liked serging but: Is it useful for fabrics besides knits? >> I >> know it can be used on woven fabrics, but there are a variety of seams >> that can be used on those but less of a variety for knits. Thing is, I >> never sew knits. And I never wanted a serger before but now that I'm >> adding to the machine collection. . . >> >> I'm really regretting selling that early electric Singer with the >> bentwood case that I had years ago, it worked perfectly and had a great >> straight stitch. It's just that I was a college student, I also had >> another machine, and I didn't want a lot of stuff to haul around. Is it >> easy to get them into good condition? Mine was like new. >> >> Fran >> Lavolta Press >> http://www.lavoltapress.com >> >> Kim Baird wrote: >>> >>> You need a strong thread for serging, because there is a bit of >>> jerking >>> going on, and high speed. I use polyester thread for serging, whether >>> it's >>> dedicated serger cones or just spools of Guterman or Metrosene. I >>> also like >>> to use wooly nylon in the loopers, because it covers the edge so well. >>> However, you have to be careful when pressing the garment. Too much >>> heat, >>> and wooly nylon becomes stiff and scratchy. >>> >> >> >> ___ >> h-costume mailing list >> h-costume@mail.indra.com >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume >> > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > -- Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian [EMAIL PROTECTED] www.VintageVictorian.com Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era. Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread
Take a look at Baby Lock or Bernette sergers. Sewing machine dealers sell sergers, but they are not made by sewing machine manufacturers. They are all made in Asia, to the specifications of the company that puts its name on them. Over the years, they have added many features to the original, home overlock machine. Some of them are useful, some are only additional expense. I would recommend a 3/4 thread model with differential feed. You do NOT need to pay extra for a serger that sets its own tensions for the different stitches. A little practice and setting tensions is simple to do. In fact, you are expected to adjust the tension any time you serge on a different fabric, or with a different thread. Since you don't sew with knits, you won't need a cover stitch. This is the stitch used to hem T-shirts, etc. Some sergers can convert from overlock to cover stitch and back again, but you won't use this feature. Models made within the last 10 years should be fairly easy to thread. You don't need to buy something with an automatic threading system, unless you want to spend the extra money. I do save time by tying the new thread on to the old one, and pulling it through with the tension turned to zero. You can get a blind hem foot for your serger, if you want to finish the raw edge and hem at the same time, and at high speed. I usually find it easier not to do this, but if I had a lot of curtains or something large to do, it would come in handy. Do try the machine before you buy. If it sounds clackety or feels shaky when it sews, it's probably too cheaply made and you shouldn't buy it. You can probably find a decent, used 3/4 thread serger with differential feed under $300. If you buy from a dealer, don't hesitate to dicker on price. If they won't come down, maybe they'll throw in a free accessory. Good luck. Kim -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lavolta Press Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2008 7:08 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread What model would you recommend? Thanks, Fran Kim Baird wrote: > Fran-- > I never wanted a serger, either. But once I learned to use one, I > really liked it. I ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread
Sylvia Rognstad wrote: > I think it is necessary for woven fabrics, not so for knits, since they > don't fray. Of course, if you're doing historically accurate costumes, > you probably don't want to serge them, but since I'm not into that, I > always serge, and can't stand costumes or clothing that aren't serged > anymore I'm still trying to find out when, historically, commercial cotton dresses in Sweden (heck, Scandinavia!) began to be overlocked? At some point it is historically accurate, but I can't find when. Anyone have any ideas? -Judy Mitchell ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread
I think it is necessary for woven fabrics, not so for knits, since they don't fray. Of course, if you're doing historically accurate costumes, you probably don't want to serge them, but since I'm not into that, I always serge, and can't stand costumes or clothing that aren't serged anymore Sylvia On May 11, 2008, at 5:35 PM, Lavolta Press wrote: > I've never liked serging but: Is it useful for fabrics besides knits? > I > know it can be used on woven fabrics, but there are a variety of seams > that can be used on those but less of a variety for knits. Thing is, I > never sew knits. And I never wanted a serger before but now that I'm > adding to the machine collection. . . > > I'm really regretting selling that early electric Singer with the > bentwood case that I had years ago, it worked perfectly and had a great > straight stitch. It's just that I was a college student, I also had > another machine, and I didn't want a lot of stuff to haul around. Is it > easy to get them into good condition? Mine was like new. > > Fran > Lavolta Press > http://www.lavoltapress.com > > Kim Baird wrote: >> >> You need a strong thread for serging, because there is a bit of >> jerking >> going on, and high speed. I use polyester thread for serging, whether >> it's >> dedicated serger cones or just spools of Guterman or Metrosene. I >> also like >> to use wooly nylon in the loopers, because it covers the edge so well. >> However, you have to be careful when pressing the garment. Too much >> heat, >> and wooly nylon becomes stiff and scratchy. >> > > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread
What model would you recommend? Thanks, Fran Kim Baird wrote: > Fran-- > I never wanted a serger, either. But once I learned to use one, I really > liked it. I ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread
Fran-- I never wanted a serger, either. But once I learned to use one, I really liked it. I still don't use it for quilting, but it is very handy for garment sewing. It finishes off seam allowances quickly and beautifully. I use it when sewing Victorian clothing, too. I'm not about to finish all those seams by hand overcasting, when they're not visible while wearing the garment anyway. Two other handy uses: rolled hems, such as napkins, and gathering anything. Because they have so many possible settings, and differential feed, you can make them do many different things. If you get a serger, please take a class or two on what they can do. Kim -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Lavolta Press Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2008 6:36 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread I've never liked serging but: Is it useful for fabrics besides knits? I know it can be used on woven fabrics, but there are a variety of seams that can be used on those but less of a variety for knits. Thing is, I never sew knits. And I never wanted a serger before but now that I'm adding to the machine collection. . . I'm really regretting selling that early electric Singer with the bentwood case that I had years ago, it worked perfectly and had a great straight stitch. It's just that I was a college student, I also had another machine, and I didn't want a lot of stuff to haul around. Is it easy to get them into good condition? Mine was like new. Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com Kim Baird wrote: > > You need a strong thread for serging, because there is a bit of > jerking going on, and high speed. I use polyester thread for serging, > whether it's dedicated serger cones or just spools of Guterman or > Metrosene. I also like to use wooly nylon in the loopers, because it covers the edge so well. > However, you have to be careful when pressing the garment. Too much > heat, and wooly nylon becomes stiff and scratchy. > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread
I've never liked serging but: Is it useful for fabrics besides knits? I know it can be used on woven fabrics, but there are a variety of seams that can be used on those but less of a variety for knits. Thing is, I never sew knits. And I never wanted a serger before but now that I'm adding to the machine collection. . . I'm really regretting selling that early electric Singer with the bentwood case that I had years ago, it worked perfectly and had a great straight stitch. It's just that I was a college student, I also had another machine, and I didn't want a lot of stuff to haul around. Is it easy to get them into good condition? Mine was like new. Fran Lavolta Press http://www.lavoltapress.com Kim Baird wrote: > > You need a strong thread for serging, because there is a bit of jerking > going on, and high speed. I use polyester thread for serging, whether it's > dedicated serger cones or just spools of Guterman or Metrosene. I also like > to use wooly nylon in the loopers, because it covers the edge so well. > However, you have to be careful when pressing the garment. Too much heat, > and wooly nylon becomes stiff and scratchy. > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread
You need a strong thread for serging, because there is a bit of jerking going on, and high speed. I use polyester thread for serging, whether it's dedicated serger cones or just spools of Guterman or Metrosene. I also like to use wooly nylon in the loopers, because it covers the edge so well. However, you have to be careful when pressing the garment. Too much heat, and wooly nylon becomes stiff and scratchy. If you like to sew with cotton, look for Mettler silk finish. There is no silk in it, but it is very smooth and a little bit shiny. Works well for hand or machine sewing. I use it for quilting, too. Kim ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread
Sylvia Rognstad wrote: > One question relating to threads I have is does anyone think > that cotton covered poly threads are better or worse for regular > machine sewing than all poly? I think it is going to depend on your machine and what you are sewing. Some of my older machines sew beautifully with silk and cotton threads, but snarl on any kind of polyester or synthetic thread. My new computerised Viking sews fine with brands like Metrosene and Mettler, but shreds silk thread. When I sew cotton fabrics I like to sew with cotton thread so the fibers all react the same way in the wash. Cotton threads can shrink in the wash and cause your seams to be come puckered. > Joanns just discontinued the former. > And lost my thread business. I still buy cotton covered poly from Hancock's. Sadly, I noticed about 12 years ago that the quality of Coats & Clark dropped significantly. They used to sell a rather smooth thread, and the newer thread is much coarser and has more slubs in it by comparison. You can see and feel the difference. Unfortunately, there isn't a good replacement for C&C. I was using Signature brand for a while there, but they discontinued their cotton home sewing thread a few years back, and I am down to my last couple of spools of it. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread
I took a serging class at a community college with a woman who ran a sewing machine repair place (they sold used and Viking machines too.). She warned us that the large cones of thread sold as "serger thread" at places like Joannes were not good quality. (This does not include the quality threads like Gutterman etc -nor does it include the specialty threads like wooly nylon - they seem to work just fine) As a consequence I purchased thread from her but it never had any markings on it. I was fortunate enough to buy a set of the basic colors - black, white, cream, and grey That was almost 20 years ago and I still have plenty My guess is that it is industrial quality thread - and oddly enough we have several of those tailoring ends/discount fabric stores in Phoenix that sells trims, buttons, fabric, etc. They also sell what looks like thread cones which were used in industrial sewing construction, but perhaps were so color specific that when they were done with the "run" they just got rid of the thread. So, I guess I'd call it "used" thread - but I have never had any problems with any of it. Who knows who made it! Sg > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 > 16:17:31 -0500> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread> > > I have an older > Viking, and if I use the cheap coned thread on that machine > I have no end > of trouble. Skipped stitches, bobbin snarls, tension binding, > etc. I > generally use Gutterman, which I think is a cotton/poly thread.> > Denise B> > Iowa > > ___> h-costume mailing > list> h-costume@mail.indra.com> > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread
>I never use cotton thread for anything, as I live in a dry climate, and > it breaks faster. I think I read that poly has more give to it as > well. I just use the cheap poly cone threads that are made for > sergers. One question relating to threads I have is does anyone think > that cotton covered poly threads are better or worse for regular > machine sewing than all poly? Joanns just discontinued the former. I have an older Viking, and if I use the cheap coned thread on that machine I have no end of trouble. Skipped stitches, bobbin snarls, tension binding, etc. I generally use Gutterman, which I think is a cotton/poly thread. Denise B Iowa ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread
I never use cotton thread for anything, as I live in a dry climate, and it breaks faster. I think I read that poly has more give to it as well. I just use the cheap poly cone threads that are made for sergers. One question relating to threads I have is does anyone think that cotton covered poly threads are better or worse for regular machine sewing than all poly? Joanns just discontinued the former. Sylvia On May 10, 2008, at 3:10 AM, S Young wrote: > Hi All, > > What is better for an overlocker, cotton or polyester? Yes this is a > very open ended question! > > What do you find best to use in what situations. > > Sidney > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread
At 12:20 10/05/2008, you wrote: >Is this the same machine I know as a "serger"? > >I generally use the cones of thread which are mostly Polyester; though I >suspect it would be best to coordinate your needle thread(s) with your >fabric as is usually done for standard sewing machines. Hope this helps, >Betsy > >-Original Message- >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On >Behalf Of S Young >Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2008 4:11 AM >To: Historical Costume >Subject: [h-cost] Overlocker thread > >Hi All, > >What is better for an overlocker, cotton or polyester? Yes this is a >very open ended question! > >What do you find best to use in what situations. In the U.K. I have always tried to buy proper overlocker thread, sold on big cones, for my old Singer industrial machine. When it was first made that was all that was available, so that is what it was made for. However, on certain occasions, like trying to match a specific colour, I do use whatever happens to match. As a side note, I really hate synthetic thread of any kind, and recently found a real bargain in a box of 1000 metre white cotton thread spools - a thread which has been discontinued in the U.K. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Overlocker thread
Is this the same machine I know as a "serger"? I generally use the cones of thread which are mostly Polyester; though I suspect it would be best to coordinate your needle thread(s) with your fabric as is usually done for standard sewing machines. Hope this helps, Betsy -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of S Young Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2008 4:11 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: [h-cost] Overlocker thread Hi All, What is better for an overlocker, cotton or polyester? Yes this is a very open ended question! What do you find best to use in what situations. Sidney ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Overlocker thread
Hi All, What is better for an overlocker, cotton or polyester? Yes this is a very open ended question! What do you find best to use in what situations. Sidney ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
