Re: [h-cost] Regency question
Hi, Thank you for the response! I'll try to answer all the emails at once. I will hopefully get the Cut of Men's Clothes (Norah Waugh) and the Cut of Women's Clothes as a X-mas present from my husband. I already read in a revieuw that the patterns are from pre-1780s and the other half from 1840 on. But I am also planning on making a 1860 or 1885 Dickens fair costume for my husband. I have the Laughing Moon 109 men's frock coat for that. It will be the fhirst time I will make something tailord as that and the pattern looks quite difficult. Diana Snipp Actually, if you look closer at the embroidered white dresses, they use a very light cotton fabric and leave it smooth across the front. Then start your pleating around where the arms hang and the majority of the pleats are in the back. It is much more flattering than pleating or gathering all around the top of the skirt. I think I'll do that. Thanks for the idea. I hadn't noticed it before. Bjarne Snipp In Koehler´s book, there is a nice cut of a gentlemans garment for this event. Its from 1804. This is not one of the coats that is cut straight over at the front, but has the curves from previous fashion. That book is on my wish list too. I would love to make a beautifull embroidered 18th century costume for my husband like the ones you make. And I probaby will some day. Because of that I think it would be more interesting for me to make a more different costume for this period. Ann Wass Snipp Hill and Bucknell's Evolution of Fashion I have a copy of a part of that book. Unfortionally only untill 1585 De Snipp Gallery with some regency http://www.vintagetextile.com/gallery_early.htm Yum Aylwen Garden Snipp I am in the middle of making some Regency tailcoats - I have been scaling up patterns from RL Shep Federalist Regency Costume: 1790-1819. If you want to chat while you're putting it together I'm only an email away. Cheers, Aylwen Garden http://www.regencyreproductions.com http://stores.ebay.com.au/Earthly-Delights You make beautifull costumes! Federalist Regency Costume: 1790-1819 Looks like an interesting book. But it looks like it is out of print :( Kathleen Snipp Think that the one I have and have used is from Rockinghorse Farm(?), It is double breasted, with the proper pleats at the tail opening at the back. This one little detail is missing from at least one of the contemporary patterns. I compared the pieces to the shapes in Cut of men's clothes before I cut it out. I have never used Rocking horse farm patterns. Do you mean the dragoon Uniform pattern? http://rockinghorse-farm.com/ The others are only the waistcoats. Greetings, Deredere ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Regency question
re the waistcoat, the present one from McCall's is quite comparable. I have two waistcoats that are of the First Q 19th C and this pattern follows the correct line. Kathleen - Original Message - From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2005 2:51 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Regency question Hi Deredere, In Koehler´s book, there is a nice cut of a gentlemans garment for this event. Its from 1804. This is not one of the coats that is cut straight over at the front, but has the curves from previous fashion. This is the glory of high tailoring and very elegant. This pattern you have to scale up, but i know you are used to this. There is no pattern of the gillet (waistcoat) but this is the easy part, so you could find it somewhere else. I wished i had the money to go to this, and the clothes, but my clothes are much two oldfashioned for this. I wish yoy good luck! Bjarne - Original Message - From: Deredere Galbraith [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2005 2:04 PM Subject: [h-cost] Regency question Hi, My husband and I will go to our fhirst Regency ball next year. http://www.nehelenia-designs.com/costumeevents/costumeevents.html I know what I would like to make for myself. I would love to make a white dress with embroidery like these http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/god1/hob_1983.6.1,07.146.5.htm For my husband I have found some really nice Blue wool. I would like to make a tailcoat out of it. http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/RegencyBall/FabricR.jpg Would this be right for regency? I have two Butterick patterns, 3648 and 3723. Are those of any use? Or is there a better male pattern? Ireally don't know anything from this period. I have the La Mode Bagatelle pattern and I made a fantasy version with that pattern. http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/RegencyBall/Regfront.jpg http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/RegencyBall/Regback.jpg I think I'll need to make the skirt smaller so that I don't have to pleat it to the bodice. Greetings, Deredere ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Regency question
Diana Habra wrote: Day dress http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_537.htm Wow! I got lost on this site for about an hour. And 100 pages of printer Yes, isn't that a wonderful site! I also found this one quite helpful: http://demode.tweedlebop.com/realvict/ Seeing the construction details are marvelous. One thing I did find challenging about these extant gown sites, though: very often they display the clothes on modern mannequins or dress forms. It gives one an improper impression of how the gown should hang, usually because the bust is lower and shaped differently than a corseted figure. Just something to take into account when making the gown... - Hope ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Regency question
Diana Habra wrote: Day dress http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_537.htm Wow! I got lost on this site for about an hour. And 100 pages of printer Yes, isn't that a wonderful site! I also found this one quite helpful: http://demode.tweedlebop.com/realvict/ The main thing that I liked about the site was that it had *many* detailed pictures of the same garment. Often an extant garment will be pictured but usually only the whole front (and maybe the back) will be shown. And I haven't seen any of the museum sites offer a look at a gown or outfit unfastened so that we can see how it really works. That was what I liked the most :~ Seeing the construction details are marvelous. One thing I did find challenging about these extant gown sites, though: very often they display the clothes on modern mannequins or dress forms. It gives one an improper impression of how the gown should hang, usually because the bust is lower and shaped differently than a corseted figure. Just something to take into account when making the gown... I totally agree with you on this however I am fairly familiar with how these styles should look already so it wasn't too much of a problem for me. Diana www.RenaissanceFabrics.net Everything for the Costumer ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Regency question
I will search out this pattern tomorrow and see if I can put together the directions for you. This pattern company (for me at least) also assumes that the sewer will already know the finer points of construction). If you have ever done any tailoring, like for a suit or coat, you will have no problem in being able to follow the progression. One thing I have learned in my 30yr. plus costume generation is that once you have the right shapes and the right cuts re alignment of grain and bias, you have already done 2/3s of the work. Adding the proper interfacings that are often omitted from contemporary costume making (in the popular vein) will help you to turn even a minimalist pattern into a credible period garment. All the recent volumes like The Cut of... give lots of wonderful details re style and construction that can make a success of your own attempts of getting it right. Kathleen - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2005 8:29 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Regency question In a message dated 11/13/2005 7:50:10 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: It is double breasted, with the proper pleats at the tail opening at the back. This one little detail is missing from at least one of the contemporary patterns. I compared the pieces to the shapes in Cut of men's clothes before I cut it out. How are the directions? That seems to be the biggest shortcoming of some of the period patterns. They assume you know how to put a coat together and skim over, or omit completely, details such as constructing the lapel and those pleats. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Regency question
In a message dated 11/13/2005 1:10:39 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Are these closed up fireplace or stove alcoves? Statuary settings? Look like statuary niches to me--for neo-classical casts, perhaps? Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Regency question
I think the dark things in the alcoves are stoves. On the second picture, it looks like there are tiles inside and around the alcove - look at the way the reflexion of the light is broken on the tiles in the second pic. - Original Message - From: Land of Oz [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2005 1:09 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Regency question My husband and I will go to our fhirst Regency ball next year. http://www.nehelenia-designs.com/costumeevents/costumeevents.html Not clothing related, but please humor me. :-) On the web page above, there are two photos of the interior of the ball location. Can someone tell me the original purpose of the inset alcoves shown in both photos? Are these closed up fireplace or stove alcoves? Statuary settings? I'm curious because the items placed in these areas don't seem to fit, exactly, but I don't know enough about the period to know why. Thanks Denise B in Iowa ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Regency question
In a message dated 11/13/2005 3:29:02 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I will search out this pattern tomorrow and see if I can put together the directions for you. This pattern company (for me at least) also assumes that the sewer will already know the finer points of construction). If you have ever done any tailoring, like for a suit or coat, you will have no problem in being able to follow the progression. One thing I have learned in my 30yr. plus costume generation is that once you have the right shapes and the right cuts re alignment of grain and bias, you have already done 2/3s of the work. Adding the proper interfacings that are often omitted from contemporary costume making (in the popular vein) will help you to turn even a minimalist pattern into a credible period garment. I was asking for our original poster. I've had enough experience with what I call modern classic tailoring, both men's and women's, that I can finally proceed fairly well. The hardest part for early 19th century coats, in my opinion, is how the front edge/tails/pocket sacks are handled. When I made my first coat, I had never seen a real one, and had to muddle through that part. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Regency question
Hi, My husband and I will go to our fhirst Regency ball next year. http://www.nehelenia-designs.com/costumeevents/costumeevents.html I am SOO jealous!! We don't have wonderful places like this where I live (California). It is beautiful! I have two Butterick patterns, 3648 and 3723. Are those of any use? Or is there a better male pattern? Ireally don't know anything from this period. I have the La Mode Bagatelle pattern and I made a fantasy version with that pattern. http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/RegencyBall/Regfront.jpg http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/RegencyBall/Regback.jpg I think I'll need to make the skirt smaller so that I don't have to pleat it to the bodice. Actually, if you look closer at the embroidered white dresses, they use a very light cotton fabric and leave it smooth across the front. Then start your pleating around where the arms hang and the majority of the pleats are in the back. It is much more flattering than pleating or gathering all around the top of the skirt. The Museum of Bath has an exhibit of Jane Austen dresses right now that you can see online. If you look closely at the seam lines and adjust any of the patterns you already have, you will be fine. Here is a link to the Bath exhibit: http://snipurl.com/jtdw If you can't get the snipURL to work, just go to www.museumofcostume.co.uk and click on Special Displays and Exhibitions. Have fun!! You do such nice work I am sure you will look fabulous! Diana www.RenaissanceFabrics.net Everything for the Costumer ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Regency question
Though Regency is not my period. Here are some things I ran across when I was trying to get a feel of the period for some material I have that screamed at me Regency! after I had washed it. :) Day dress http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_537.htm 1830s formal(?) http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_292.htm 1800-1810 formal(?) with Spencer jacket http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_333.htm 1800 casual dress http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_190.htm 1780-1790 men's http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_205.htm 1820 corset http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_256.htm 1830 evening slippers/shoes http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_494.htm Gallery with some regency http://www.vintagetextile.com/gallery_early.htm The first dress is formal and is gathered in front. As for the Butterick patterns, they're only good for in a pinch need. Site for some Regency patterns http://www.regencygarderobe.com/New%20Patterns.htm Hope this helps. De ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Regency question
In a message dated 11/12/2005 4:37:43 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Sorry to disagree but there is a late 18th century pattern that is perfectly suitable for the dates given for the ball - 1790-1810. Men's fashions had begun to fossilize, and evening dress in particular became uniform. Do you mean Diagram XXIX? I guess it would do. I, however, interpret mostly the 1810s, and I would prefer a double-breasted front, and would not at all do that shaped pleat overlay with buttons, or the large pocket flaps with the buttons underneath, or that shape of collar. I prefer the large M-notch collar in Evolution in Fashion. Another good source for men's wear, albeit it also requires some skill in interpretation--R.L. Shep's Federalist Regency Costume: 1790-1819. And we do play fast and loose with Regency, don't we? Technically, the English Regency was 1811-1820. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Regency question
-Original Message- Just in case, each site has more pictures with details if you scroll down the page. 1830s formal(?) http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_292.htm 1800-1810 formal(?) with Spencer jacket http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_333.htm 1800 casual dress http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_190.htm 1820 corset http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_256.htm 1830 evening slippers/shoes http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_494.htm Gallery with some regency http://www.vintagetextile.com/gallery_early.htm The first dress is formal and is gathered in front. Hope this helps. De ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Regency question
I am in the middle of making some Regency tailcoats - I have been scaling up patterns from RL Shep Federalist Regency Costume: 1790-1819. If you want to chat while you're putting it together I'm only an email away. Cheers, Aylwen Garden http://www.regencyreproductions.com http://stores.ebay.com.au/Earthly-Delights Deredere Galbraith wrote: Hi, My husband and I will go to our fhirst Regency ball next year. http://www.nehelenia-designs.com/costumeevents/costumeevents.html I know what I would like to make for myself. I would love to make a white dress with embroidery like these http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/god1/hob_1983.6.1,07.146.5.htm For my husband I have found some really nice Blue wool. I would like to make a tailcoat out of it. http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/RegencyBall/FabricR.jpg Would this be right for regency? I have two Butterick patterns, 3648 and 3723. Are those of any use? Or is there a better male pattern? Ireally don't know anything from this period. I have the La Mode Bagatelle pattern and I made a fantasy version with that pattern. http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/RegencyBall/Regfront.jpg http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/RegencyBall/Regback.jpg I think I'll need to make the skirt smaller so that I don't have to pleat it to the bodice. Greetings, Deredere ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Regency question
Hi Deredere, In Koehler´s book, there is a nice cut of a gentlemans garment for this event. Its from 1804. This is not one of the coats that is cut straight over at the front, but has the curves from previous fashion. This is the glory of high tailoring and very elegant. This pattern you have to scale up, but i know you are used to this. There is no pattern of the gillet (waistcoat) but this is the easy part, so you could find it somewhere else. I wished i had the money to go to this, and the clothes, but my clothes are much two oldfashioned for this. I wish yoy good luck! Bjarne - Original Message - From: Deredere Galbraith [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2005 2:04 PM Subject: [h-cost] Regency question Hi, My husband and I will go to our fhirst Regency ball next year. http://www.nehelenia-designs.com/costumeevents/costumeevents.html I know what I would like to make for myself. I would love to make a white dress with embroidery like these http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/god1/hob_1983.6.1,07.146.5.htm For my husband I have found some really nice Blue wool. I would like to make a tailcoat out of it. http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/RegencyBall/FabricR.jpg Would this be right for regency? I have two Butterick patterns, 3648 and 3723. Are those of any use? Or is there a better male pattern? Ireally don't know anything from this period. I have the La Mode Bagatelle pattern and I made a fantasy version with that pattern. http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/RegencyBall/Regfront.jpg http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~triade2/RegencyBall/Regback.jpg I think I'll need to make the skirt smaller so that I don't have to pleat it to the bodice. Greetings, Deredere ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Regency question
Day dress http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_537.htm Wow! I got lost on this site for about an hour. And 100 pages of printer paper later.I have up-close pictures and information about real antique clothing! Even though the garments are for sale, this website has better detail pictures than any costume museum website I have seen. If you like to look at details and figure out how they did that from the 1750's onwardspend some time and look through this site :~ My favorite detail picture is from the 1800-1810 apron front dress: http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page_190.htm It is an apron front dress where the front of the bodice flips up in to place. Scroll down to the second-to-last picture. They have splayed the dress out so that you can see exactly how it was constructed and how it all goes together. Awesome!!! Sorry to get all weirdly excitedbut I love finding out how things are truly done on period clothing ;~ Diana www.RenaissanceFabrics.net Everything for the Costumer ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
