Re: [h-cost] Assistance with late Victorian gown patterns please?

2007-12-06 Thread Katy Bishop
Dress #3, from my site is described as such:
excerpt, Delineator, March 1894: (Figure No. 300G/No. 6772)
Shaded taffeta is the material here pictured...which is admirably
adapted for visiting, driving and other dressy wear.  The skirt is of
the 5 gored variety and, as is now considered correct, present
fullness only at the back, the shaping of the gores, together with
darts at the top, producing a smooth effect over the hips.
...trimmed with a lace edging and narrow insertion... (I question
the term narrow insertion, looks wide to me)
A very dressy toilette for an afternoon reception may be developed by
the mode in shaded or chanegable silk, liberty silk, silk taffeta,
crepon, India or China silk or plain or figured crepe de Chine.  All
sorts of wool and silk-and-wool materials are also well adapted to a
toilette of this kind.

So it seems any of your lighter-weight cloth, either wool or silk,
would work well.

Katy

On Dec 5, 2007 5:34 PM, Angharad ver' Reynulf [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Greetings folks!

 It seems my costuming inspiration has come back with a vengeance. After much 
 lurking and dithering, I'm going to be making two Victorian (or early 
 Edwardian?) outfits in preparation for CostumeCon 26, but need a little help 
 with details.

 Ageless Patterns for inspirations and then Truly Victorian and Laughing Moon 
 were posited as good starting patterns for me (I don't think the person 
 recommending realized I owned/had access to several of Fran's books).  I've 
 been going through my book and the local library's selection, as well as 
 several online sites trying to see what general silhouettes appeal most to 
 me, and it looks like from about 1887 to 1899, and a couple of pieces from 
 1905 are the ones I'll be trying to focus on, with more of the walking/day 
 type skirts, not the evening gowns.

 I'm not experienced at drafting up yet, so this will be a good learning 
 experience, no matter what outfits I choose. Plus of course trying to get a 
 decent idea of color combinations and trim/decorative styles for that time 
 period.

 My sister-in-law will be letting me rifle through her Truly Victorian and 
 Laughing Moon undergarment and basic skirt/bodice patterns, which will help 
 me see better as my computer doesn't show them well.

 The three primary types of silhouettes I seem to come up with are as follows, 
 with questions at the end.

 A: http://www.agelesspatterns.com/images/1008.GIF

 B:  http://www.agelesspatterns.com/images/1488.GIF

 C:  http://www.vintagevictorian.com/images/Del_3_94d.jpg


 A: 1887 Braided Cloth Gown w/Bell Skirt:  This gown was made of bluet-blue 
 cloth with a vest of dark blue velvet and braiding in dark blue soutache.  
 The waist is a belted blouse, cut low on the velvet vest, with the fronts 
 connected by a clasp.  Design for soutache braid included.


 B:  1899 Gown Trimmed w/Persian Lamb: The pattern for this terra cotta 
 colored cloth gown trimmed with embroidery and Persian lamb consists of 
 bodice, outer skirt, underskirt and pattern for embroidery.

 C:  I like this piece as well, it looks very similar to 5 of the ones in the 
 1890's Dover book I've got checked out, or one that's pictured in R. Turner 
 Wilcox's The Mode in Costume out of peacock green with black accents and a 
 violet satin waist and belt.

 Query 1:  On dress A, isn't a Bell Skirt more 1890's?  I like the thought of 
 playing with the detailing like this, but am confused at what the back would 
 look like.  Is anyone familiar with this particular pattern who can clear it 
 up for me?  Also, what is meant by a velvet vest under the waist?  Is that 
 simply a sleeved garment under the blouse, or something else?

 Query 2:  Where could I get an idea of what types of trimmings were used so 
 that I can better visualize them?  I do okay with only written descriptions, 
 but examples I can see work much better.  I have some long lengths of white 
 gimp, a colored fringe and a white gimp/netted tassel combination that I 
 think would look nice on a hem or edging, but that's without any knowledge, 
 and I'd rather have something that doesn't look like an inspired costume.

 Query 3: Fabrics/colors.  I've got a tropical weight bright jade/peacock 
 green wool (almost 20 yards, it was at a thrift store), lots of lightweight 
 black wool (off cuts from a garment store averaging about 2 yards each), 10 
 yards of an icy greyed lavender faux shot silk, 10 yards of a black orchid 
 grosgrain type fabric and 10 yards of a medium rose linen weave, plus lots of 
 white, black, green and purple bits of velvets, satins, laces and wools that 
 I could pull out for accents.  They are all plain fabrics, as is most of my 
 hoard, but I tend to prefer to err that way, than with patterns.  Would any 
 of these work?


 Sorry for the rambling, I stayed up a bit too late reading and playing with 
 images for this last night and am paying for it at work today.

 Thank you for your time!

 JonnaLyhn 

RE: [h-cost] Assistance with late Victorian gown patterns please?

2007-12-06 Thread Kim Baird
I like dress C, and you could use the tropical weght wool for it. Or the
black orchid fabric, which sounnds like faille, a ribbed fabric with
plenty of body .

Kim

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Angharad ver' Reynulf
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2007 4:35 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Assistance with late Victorian gown patterns please?

Greetings folks!

It seems my costuming inspiration has come back with a vengeance. After much
lurking and dithering, I'm going to be making two Victorian (or early
Edwardian?) outfits in preparation for CostumeCon 26, but need a little help
with details.

Ageless Patterns for inspirations and then Truly Victorian and Laughing Moon
were posited as good starting patterns for me (I don't think the person
recommending realized I owned/had access to several of Fran's books).  I've
been going through my book and the local library's selection, as well as
several online sites trying to see what general silhouettes appeal most to
me, and it looks like from about 1887 to 1899, and a couple of pieces from
1905 are the ones I'll be trying to focus on, with more of the walking/day
type skirts, not the evening gowns.

I'm not experienced at drafting up yet, so this will be a good learning
experience, no matter what outfits I choose. Plus of course trying to get a
decent idea of color combinations and trim/decorative styles for that time
period.

My sister-in-law will be letting me rifle through her Truly Victorian and
Laughing Moon undergarment and basic skirt/bodice patterns, which will help
me see better as my computer doesn't show them well.

The three primary types of silhouettes I seem to come up with are as
follows, with questions at the end.

A: http://www.agelesspatterns.com/images/1008.GIF

B:  http://www.agelesspatterns.com/images/1488.GIF

C:  http://www.vintagevictorian.com/images/Del_3_94d.jpg


A: 1887 Braided Cloth Gown w/Bell Skirt:  This gown was made of bluet-blue
cloth with a vest of dark blue velvet and braiding in dark blue soutache.
The waist is a belted blouse, cut low on the velvet vest, with the fronts
connected by a clasp.  Design for soutache braid included.


B:  1899 Gown Trimmed w/Persian Lamb: The pattern for this terra cotta
colored cloth gown trimmed with embroidery and Persian lamb consists of
bodice, outer skirt, underskirt and pattern for embroidery. 

C:  I like this piece as well, it looks very similar to 5 of the ones in the
1890's Dover book I've got checked out, or one that's pictured in R. Turner
Wilcox's The Mode in Costume out of peacock green with black accents and a
violet satin waist and belt.  

Query 1:  On dress A, isn't a Bell Skirt more 1890's?  I like the thought of
playing with the detailing like this, but am confused at what the back would
look like.  Is anyone familiar with this particular pattern who can clear it
up for me?  Also, what is meant by a velvet vest under the waist?  Is that
simply a sleeved garment under the blouse, or something else?  

Query 2:  Where could I get an idea of what types of trimmings were used so
that I can better visualize them?  I do okay with only written descriptions,
but examples I can see work much better.  I have some long lengths of white
gimp, a colored fringe and a white gimp/netted tassel combination that I
think would look nice on a hem or edging, but that's without any knowledge,
and I'd rather have something that doesn't look like an inspired costume.

Query 3: Fabrics/colors.  I've got a tropical weight bright jade/peacock
green wool (almost 20 yards, it was at a thrift store), lots of lightweight
black wool (off cuts from a garment store averaging about 2 yards each), 10
yards of an icy greyed lavender faux shot silk, 10 yards of a black orchid
grosgrain type fabric and 10 yards of a medium rose linen weave, plus lots
of white, black, green and purple bits of velvets, satins, laces and wools
that I could pull out for accents.  They are all plain fabrics, as is most
of my hoard, but I tend to prefer to err that way, than with patterns.
Would any of these work?


Sorry for the rambling, I stayed up a bit too late reading and playing with
images for this last night and am paying for it at work today.

Thank you for your time!

JonnaLyhn Wolfcat

who will also be doing two 1940's outfits-one suit and one evening gown, I
have EVIL friends!


 


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Re: [h-cost] Assistance with late Victorian gown patterns please?

2007-12-06 Thread Angharad ver' Reynulf
My thanks to all who've given me input.  The hardest part about going into this 
is feeling confident enough to get started.  I'll be getting together with my 
sister in law just before Yule, and will get to look at what patterns she has 
to start with, so hopefully I can be working on the undergarments before New 
Years.  So yes, I'll do an update one what choice(s) I work on then.

Katy, thank you for the further information on dress C.  I didn't see that on 
your site or would have put it with the information on the gown like I did for 
the other two.  It makes me feel a lot more confident about the fabrics I 
picked up from Michael Levine's.

Melusine, I'll take you up on that offer-the key part will be determining WHEN 
I can get to your place. 

 
JonnaLyhn Wolfcat
aka Angharad verch Reynulf, BAO, An Tir


  

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Re: [h-cost] Assistance with late Victorian gown patterns please?

2007-12-05 Thread Carmen Beaudry

(snip)
Query 2:  Where could I get an idea of what types of trimmings were used 
so that I can better visualize them?  I do okay with only written 
descriptions, but examples I can see work much better.  I have some long 
lengths of white gimp, a colored fringe and a white gimp/netted tassel 
combination that I think would look nice on a hem or edging, but that's 
without any knowledge, and I'd rather have something that doesn't look 
like an inspired costume.


I've got some antique trims from the 1880-1900 era if you'd like to come 
over and look at them.  Keeping me company while I tear my hair out, oop, I 
mean sew, would be ok, too.


Melusine

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