Re: [Hornlist] conn 8d
I will bet that that "12" is actually a "42", but not stamped well into the valve casing. That would make a whole lot more sense. This sounds, based on the engraving and assuming it's a "42" series, that it's an Eastlake horn made in 1992. Even if it is "12", then engraving is pretty indicative of an early Eastlake horn. "Conn 8D" is an early Eastlake indicator, as opposed to "C G Conn" or "C G Conn LTD". As always, there's never one definitive indicator, but a collection of them that date an 8D. Dave Weiner Brass Arts Unlimited -Original Message- From: Bill Gross <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: 'The Horn List' Sent: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 9:13 pm Subject: RE: [Hornlist] conn 8d The "12" seems a bit confusing. According to at least on source http://www.hornplayer.net/archive/a34.html Conn didn't use such a designator. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2008 7:21 PM To: horn@music.memphis.edu Subject: [Hornlist] conn 8d I have a conn 8d with serial number 12 399576, and Conn 8d USA is etched on the taper to the bell. Does anyone know whether the horn was manufactured in Abiline or Eastlake from those stats. Thanks. Ron **Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL Home. (http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom0 00301) ___ post: horn@music.memphis.edu unsubscribe or set options at http://music2.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/bgross%40airmail.net ___ post: horn@music.memphis.edu unsubscribe or set options at http://music2.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/brassartsunlim%40aol.com ___ post: horn@music.memphis.edu unsubscribe or set options at http://music2.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
RE: [Hornlist] conn 8d
The "12" seems a bit confusing. According to at least on source http://www.hornplayer.net/archive/a34.html Conn didn't use such a designator. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2008 7:21 PM To: horn@music.memphis.edu Subject: [Hornlist] conn 8d I have a conn 8d with serial number 12 399576, and Conn 8d USA is etched on the taper to the bell. Does anyone know whether the horn was manufactured in Abiline or Eastlake from those stats. Thanks. Ron **Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL Home. (http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom0 00301) ___ post: horn@music.memphis.edu unsubscribe or set options at http://music2.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/bgross%40airmail.net ___ post: horn@music.memphis.edu unsubscribe or set options at http://music2.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
Re: [Hornlist] Conn 8D
From http://www.conn-selmer.com/content/resources/serialno.php: "Note: From 1974 to present - The prefix number plus 50 will give you the date manufactured. For example: Serial# 24-58637 = 24 + 50 = 1974" From http://www.musictrader.com/conn.html: "Note: From 1987 on, the two-digit prefix number plus 50 will give you the year of manufacture on all Conn products." Looks like it was manufactured in 1992. Carlisle On Mar 28, 2007, at 8:42 PM, John M. Ward wrote: I would like to know the year of Conn 8D, serial #42-430042. Also where it was manufactured/assembled. John Ward [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ post: horn@music.memphis.edu unsubscribe or set options at http://music2.memphis.edu/mailman/ options/horn/clandel%40adelphia.net ___ post: horn@music.memphis.edu unsubscribe or set options at http://music2.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
Re: [Hornlist] Conn 8D valve taper
If you're a machinist, winding a set of springs is a simple task. Many horns require that the springs be wound in place. I mount the key on an axle on my lathe. The trick is to keep steady tension while winding. During an engineering development of the Sylvania Magciube spring years ago, I discovered that the music wire sold in three foot lengths in most hobby shops represents the best spring wire ever developed. It releases the stored energy more quickly than the commonly used stainless. To take advantage of this, I wind the springs to limit contact to the ends and friction between coils or with the shaft are avoided. Usually I wind over a removable tubular spacer to provide a little extra spacing, and stretch the coils to maintain a lttle space between them. It doesn't take any longer to do it this way, just an awareness of the result you want when you are first setting up the fixturing. You'll also discover that springs wound slightly larger than the axle can be tightened by grabbing the straight end with a vise grip and pulling straight out. You can probably use this proceedure to slightly tighten the existing springs, if getting the ultimate 'snap' in the keys doesn't interest you -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: horn@music.memphis.edu Sent: Sat, 3 Feb 2007 6:18 PM Subject: Re: [Hornlist] Conn 8D valve taper Instead milling them, you'd be better served to lap them in with lapping compound. And before I did that I'd literally flood the valve with blue juice or a similar valve oil. You can also use stronger springs to speed up the action. Those may be old and tired. -James - Original Message From: Scott Avenell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: horn@music.memphis.edu Sent: Saturday, February 3, 2007 6:45:08 PM Subject: [Hornlist] Conn 8D valve taper I am looking at an N series Conn 8D which a friend wants to sell. I've been playing it for a few weeks and am happy with most everything except the valve action, which I find a little slow. The valves were reworked a few years ago and the horn did not see much action afterwards. They are currently clean and well lubricated. I would like to measure the valve taper, partly to determine the quality of the valve job, but don't know how much taper to expect: .005", .010", etc? I am also a machinist and so have calipers and other means to make the fine measurements, just wondering how much of a taper I should see with the Elkhart valves. Scott ___ post: horn@music.memphis.edu unsubscribe or set options at http://music2.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/ndspmustang%40yahoo.com _ ___ Do you Yahoo!? Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta. http://new.mail.yahoo.com ___ post: horn@music.memphis.edu unsubscribe or set options at http://music2.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/billbamberg%40aol.com Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more. ___ post: horn@music.memphis.edu unsubscribe or set options at http://music2.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
Re: [Hornlist] Conn 8D valve taper
Snip Instead milling them, you'd be better served to lap them in with lapping compound. Thanks, I just want to be clear that I have no intent to mill or cut metal on this horn, simply taking measurements primarily to determine whether the reworked valves have the same taper as the original. Lapping may come later if I buy the horn. Scott ___ post: horn@music.memphis.edu unsubscribe or set options at http://music2.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
Re: [Hornlist] Conn 8D valve taper
Instead milling them, you'd be better served to lap them in with lapping compound. And before I did that I'd literally flood the valve with blue juice or a similar valve oil. You can also use stronger springs to speed up the action. Those may be old and tired. -James - Original Message From: Scott Avenell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: horn@music.memphis.edu Sent: Saturday, February 3, 2007 6:45:08 PM Subject: [Hornlist] Conn 8D valve taper I am looking at an N series Conn 8D which a friend wants to sell. I've been playing it for a few weeks and am happy with most everything except the valve action, which I find a little slow. The valves were reworked a few years ago and the horn did not see much action afterwards. They are currently clean and well lubricated. I would like to measure the valve taper, partly to determine the quality of the valve job, but don't know how much taper to expect: .005", .010", etc? I am also a machinist and so have calipers and other means to make the fine measurements, just wondering how much of a taper I should see with the Elkhart valves. Scott ___ post: horn@music.memphis.edu unsubscribe or set options at http://music2.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/ndspmustang%40yahoo.com Do you Yahoo!? Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta. http://new.mail.yahoo.com ___ post: horn@music.memphis.edu unsubscribe or set options at http://music2.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
Re: [Hornlist] Conn 8D
Hi, I seem to remember the 300,000 and the "C" series to be particulary sought after. Gary Owner and operator of a Conn 10D --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > What is the best series and serial number range for > this horn? I think I > read something that the Conn 8D had a certain > serial that you should look for. I > think it was 20 and higher, I am not exactly > sure. > ___ > post: horn@music.memphis.edu > unsubscribe or set options at > http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/beowulf_36%40yahoo.com > Get Firefox!!http://www.mozilla.org/products/firefox/central.html ___ post: horn@music.memphis.edu unsubscribe or set options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
Re: [Hornlist] Conn 8D, Abilene
The post on Conn/Texas manufacture is of great value for historical reasons. Most of this anecdotal information is quickly lost. Though the information in any given post is usually only informed opinion, someone collecting these bits can hopefully piece together reality, and present it in a forum for all of us to treasure as our horn playing legacy. Any excuse to make an anecdotal posting should be taken as an obligation. If another lister questions the claim, so much the better. More grist for the mill. I'm curious about the claim of sub-standard material. What was sub-standard about it, and what effect was is likely to have on the finished horn? Since so many 8Ds are played professionally, most of us are aware of some exceptionally fine Texas Conns. My experience with Texas instruments is through restoration of a number of Reynolds Chambers models. I have yet to find one that can't be turned into a superb instrument. With the exception of the bell being made from thinner metal, the parts all seem to be made to the same standard as the Cleveland horns. The problems all seem to stem from excess solder used during assembly. I have never checked an Abilene 8D for this condition, but they were sharing the same labor force. One possibility, if Reynolds was paying a bit better, they might have left Conn with a much higher percentage of marginal workers. I'm hoping someone on the list has experience with the Texas Conns, and information about prevalent defects. The comment concerning sub-standard parts might be another key. The only way I know of to effectively use lower skill labor is to improve the fit and finish of the components, then supply carefully engineered fixtures to align parts perfectly with minimal operator skill needed. ___ post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] unsubscribe or set options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
Re: [Hornlist] Conn 8D help, please
Engelbert Schmid makes a valid statement that only applies to his horns, and horns by makers who's bearings are completely removable, AND can supply the oversized valves. Honing a cylinder requires BOTH bearings plates be removed. And fitting an oversized rotor should be as easy as fitting a piston valve, which I frequently do. The quality of fit is only as good as the precision tools used to measure, and the skill of the person doing the measurements (to the.0001''). However it is not difficult to taper a Texas Conn rotor and bearings prior to electroplating. We do not charge any extra to do this on our rotor valve rebuilds. I would have to agree with Engelbert that quality material, and fit will significantly improve longevity of rotor valves. And it is important not to forget how frequent oiling will reduce chemical etching, and mechanical wear. James Becker, Senior Technician Osmun Music Inc. [EMAIL PROTECTED] It was mentioned that the Texas casings were cylindrical and wore quickly to oval shape and were difficult to rebuild. This was my understanding until I had a conversation with E. Schmid. The Engelbert Schmid horns have cylindrical rotors. He indicated that the cylindrical rotors wear at the same rate as tapered rotors and that it is easier to rebuild a cylinder than a taper. He said that if the rotors/casings are made with precision and from the best materials, they will last long regardless of taper. He said that if a horn needs a rotor rebuild, he simply bores the casing to an oversize and laps in a new oversized rotor ... faster and cheaper. I would be interested to hear from knowledgeable folks if their experience differs. The bearings are another story. ___ post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] unsubscribe or set options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
Re: [Hornlist] Conn 8D help, please
In a message dated 10/20/2004 3:19:35 PM Central Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Bill, You have made a very informative post. One open question, however, is when Conn actually started making horns in Abilene. There were also parts made in Elkhart that were assembled in Abilene and while this is only an opinion, I suspect that there might even be a few horns marked Elkhart that were actually assembled in Texas (again, not fact, only opinion). The plus 50 rule in determining the manufacture of Eastlake Conns doesn't always hold true, either. There are those that accuse Conn of purposely trying to obscure serial numbers so that it becomes difficult to ascertain date. Whether you believe that is accidental or by design has a lot to do with how paranoid you happen to feel at the minute. A tapered rotor is a good way to see if it is an Elkhart horn, however, don't exclude the possibility that it was assembled in Abilene from parts. Metallurgy formula changed with Abilene horns. Although their are regional differences, and condition is everything, I am inclined to believe that anywhere from $1500 to $1800 (U.S.) would be a very fair price for the horn in question...that might even be a tad low depending on how well the horn plays. caveat lector, Mark L. Hi Mark, Bill, et al, The Elkhart plant closed about August of 1972, TTBOMK. Some of the first Texas horns were, indeed, made with some parts manufactured in Elkhart. Horns were assembled in Texas from that time on starting with some parts that were left over from Elkhart. However, I believe no Texas horns were assembled with "Elkhart" on the bell. Tapered rotors don't guarantee it's an Elkhart horn. I have an "R" series horn that was assembled/mfgd in Texas, is all original and has tapered rotors but no "Elkhart" on the bell. The horns were, as you mentioned, assembled by inexperienced craftsmen and some of the first Texas horns are easy to spot because of the errors in tubing alignment. BTW, I believe the Texas plant closed around 1986. The entire horn has to be evaluated to determine if it was, in fact , assembled/mfgd in Texas. I believe the "R" series horns were the "crossover" horns and all serial numbers after that are Texas horns. The 6 digit numbers (319,xxx for instance) were repeated for a while in Texas which has been a point of confusion for those who don't know the other changes that indicate a probable Texas horn. Other changes were tapers, metallurgy, pull rings, bell engraving, non-tapered rotors on new valve clusters, etc. It was mentioned that the Texas casings were cylindrical and wore quickly to oval shape and were difficult to rebuild. This was my understanding until I had a conversation with E. Schmid. The Engelbert Schmid horns have cylindrical rotors. He indicated that the cylindrical rotors wear at the same rate as tapered rotors and that it is easier to rebuild a cylinder than a taper. He said that if the rotors/casings are made with precision and from the best materials, they will last long regardless of taper. He said that if a horn needs a rotor rebuild, he simply bores the casing to an oversize and laps in a new oversized rotor ... faster and cheaper. I would be interested to hear from knowledgeable folks if their experience differs. The bearings are another story. It was indicated that the Texas horns are identical in shape to the Elkhart horns. The taper of the leadpipe depends on where the worker cut the pipe from the mandrel. The tuning depends on, among other things, how long the bent parts of the tuning slides are made, etc. Cold solder joints, loose braces, internal solder blobs, air leaks, loose tolerances ... there is an endless list of ways a careless worker can ruin a horn that has great potential. Prices?? Check hornplayer.net for asking prices. Check eBay completed auctions for selling prices keeping in mind that the "sold" prices are for horns that are sight unseen and unplayed. The truth is somewhere in between for horns with provenance or for horns that are known to be good players. I have seen the Conn 8D sell for $500 up to $6,000. Disclaimer: The above ramblings are a distillation of many readings and conversations with pros, repair folks, horn mfgrs, and folks who worked at the Elkhart plant. I collect horns and have gone through a number of 8Ds dating from 1937 through the present so some of the above is from personal experience. As always your mileage may vary ... if so ... please share with the list. Regards,Jerry Old in Kansas City. ___ post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] unsubscribe or set options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
Re: [Hornlist] Conn 8D, Abilene
I have had the opportunity, while in Abilene, to talk in detail with two people deeply involved in the manufacturing of the Abilene Conns who care not to have their names broadcast. The one who oversaw the engineering of manufacture equipment (cutting, rolling, bending, etc.) said that from the beginning Conn saved money by using substandard materials for the crafting of the horns. He couldn't believe the operation lasted as long as it did considering the inferior materials used not just for the Horns but also in the construction equipment. The other person I spoke with actually tested the horns. On any given week he would reject 50 to 60 percent of the horns. He mentioned an occasion when he sent fifteen rejected horns off to get disassembled, shredded, and recycled only to discover later that a supervisor had snuck them out off for shipment and sale. He estimates that just under half the horns produced and sold by the Abilene plant he actually approved as passable. He does own one of the finest Conns (a 28D) I've ever played; he selected the best one they made there. Sousaphones and other instruments faired a little better in production but they never required the tolerances of a horn. Horns suffered the most at the hands of hastily ill trained floor workers. (All about saving money) What an unfortunate saga for both Abilene and Conn. Karl Kemm Del Mar College Horn, Theory, Humanities Corpus Christi, TX Mark Louttit wrote: > Bill, > You have made a very informative post. One open question, however, is when > Conn actually started making horns in Abilene. There were also parts made in > Elkhart that were assembled in Abilene and while this is only an opinion, I > suspect that there might even be a few horns marked Elkhart that were > actually assembled in Texas (again, not fact, only opinion). > The plus 50 rule in determining the manufacture of Eastlake Conns doesn't > always hold true, either. There are those that accuse Conn of purposely > trying to obscure serial numbers so that it becomes difficult to ascertain > date. Whether you believe that is accidental or by design has a lot to do > with how paranoid you happen to feel at the minute. > A tapered rotor is a good way to see if it is an Elkhart horn, however, > don't exclude the possibility that it was assembled in Abilene from parts. > Metallurgy formula changed with Abilene horns. > Although their are regional differences, and condition is everything, I am > inclined to believe that anywhere from $1500 to $1800 (U.S.) would be a very > fair price for the horn in question...that might even be a tad low depending > on how well the horn plays. > caveat lector, > Mark L. > ___ > post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > unsubscribe or set options at > http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/kkemm%40delmar.edu ___ post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] unsubscribe or set options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
Re: [Hornlist] Conn 8D help, please
Bill, You have made a very informative post. One open question, however, is when Conn actually started making horns in Abilene. There were also parts made in Elkhart that were assembled in Abilene and while this is only an opinion, I suspect that there might even be a few horns marked Elkhart that were actually assembled in Texas (again, not fact, only opinion). The plus 50 rule in determining the manufacture of Eastlake Conns doesn't always hold true, either. There are those that accuse Conn of purposely trying to obscure serial numbers so that it becomes difficult to ascertain date. Whether you believe that is accidental or by design has a lot to do with how paranoid you happen to feel at the minute. A tapered rotor is a good way to see if it is an Elkhart horn, however, don't exclude the possibility that it was assembled in Abilene from parts. Metallurgy formula changed with Abilene horns. Although their are regional differences, and condition is everything, I am inclined to believe that anywhere from $1500 to $1800 (U.S.) would be a very fair price for the horn in question...that might even be a tad low depending on how well the horn plays. caveat lector, Mark L. ___ post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] unsubscribe or set options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
Re: [Hornlist] Conn 8D help, please
Check the prices for 8Ds on ebay. I find ebay to be pretty definitive regarding used prices. The big difference in 8D prices is often determined by when and where they were made. Lars Kirsmer has this to say: Note: From 1987 on, the two-digit prefix number plus 50 will give you the year of manufacture on all Conn products. Also, the serial numbers from 1981 - 1987 for the Brasswinds, are for student trumpets and cornets only. Data for the years 1967 to March 1974 is rather sketchy, for it was around that period of time that the Conn Brasswinds were being manufactured in Abilene, TX. Instruments made during that period of time are not likely to be their best examples, as the workers were still relatively new at the manufacturing game. According to this, your 1969 horn should have been made in Texas. Unless it specifically says 'Elkhart' on the bell, it isn't, but I've heard of 'M' and 'N' series horns claimed to be Elkhart. The way to tell is to pull a rotor and see if it is tapered. If it's tapered, it's 'Elkhart'. The Texas valves were made with no taper. The valves wear very quickly, and wear in an elliptical pattern that makes them very difficult to rebuild because the casings aren't round. Your horn hasn't seen much use, so the valves are probably still tight. For a non-professional player who is meticulous to keep the valves clean and well lubricated, the valves may never be a problem, especially if the bearings are swaged tight periodically to perfectly center the rotors. There is no reason the Texas horns should play worse than the Elkhart horns, because the parts used to assemble them are identical in shape. However, the inexperienced solderers in Texas often did a poor enough job that the fine quality of the horn is badly compromised. I'm a champion of the Reynolds horns, and poor soldering caused many of their Abilene horns to play below standard. Reaming the solder joints to the full .468 bore result in a spectacular improvement. I have never checked an Abilene 8D, but they were using the same labor pool. McMaster-Carr sells a very clever adjustable blade hand reamer that makes quick work of opening up the joints on all the slides. As far as fair prices go, the Texas 8Ds seem to run between $900-$1200 with tight valves. Factor in getting the bearings tightened right now, and probably every year or two, depending on how much playing you do. The job is fairly simple with the right tools, and the tools cost about $100. The Elkhart 8Ds seem to go for $1800-$2200 on ebay. I've seen them offered for much higher prices, but those prices are from a reputable shop for a horn that has been thoroughly set up, usually with a pedigree of serious professional usage. ___ post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] unsubscribe or set options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
Re: [Hornlist] Conn 8D vs Yamaha 668N
My preference has always the 668 and 668V over the 8D. I haven't really played any vintage 8D's in any recent memory, but being a former owner of a 668V, I, personally, really found modern 8D's inferior. Your mileage may vary, but I think you would prefer the playing and feel of a hand built 668V over a 668 or an 8D. I've seen Yamaha 868(the custom predecessor to the 668V) on hornplayer.net and ebay very reasonably priced and would be a very valid option. Having said that, I saw the light and ditched the large bell instrument for the vastly superior(joke) brass medium belled kin. Chris --- Branden Geistert <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Hello just curious if anyone has played both of these instruments and can > tell a siginificant difference between them. I recently played the Yamaha > and it appears to have very similar tone and volume capabilities to the Conn > 8D. Thanks > > >Branden Geistert > > _ > STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail > > ___ > post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > set your options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/tedesccj%40yahoo.com __ Do you Yahoo!? SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month! http://sbc.yahoo.com ___ post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] set your options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
Re: [Hornlist] Conn 8D
John, Conn horns made at Eastlake have the model number engraved on the throat. Mark L. ___ post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] set your options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
Re: [Hornlist] Conn 8D
If memory serves, a real 8D would NOT be stamped "Conn 8D" as you quote, but rather "C.G. Conn" (etc.) == john == John McCoy [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In a message dated 2/28/2003 1:05:52 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I had a horn walk into my shop for a "bath" yesterday that I hadn't seen yet - It is stamped Conn 8D on the bell, yet it is brass (thought those were 28 Ds?) with silver slides and wasn't wound anything like an 8D, and plays horribly! Have they changed the design? Is this a counterfit? It is in a Conn case, six digit serial number with no letter, mechanical linkage thumb and "jointed" spatuala arms, (which I have seen on new 8Ds that look and act like an 8D). It was purchased over last summer by a local school district - I do not know from where they purchased it. First, what is the serial number, where is it stamped, what other engravings or markings are on the bell? The current 8DY (yellow 8D) has a curvy design around the "8D" which is engraved by laser. This is a suspicious horn in several ways. If it's a new 8DY, why is it not wrapped exactly like an 8D? If it has nickel silver tubes, then it must be either a new 8DY made in Eastlake OH or it's a counterfeit. Pre-letter 28Ds (yellow 8D's) had brass tubing throughout. The big problem is that it's not wrapped like an 8D. This smells like a beach full of Lake Erie alewives to me. Dave Weiner Brass Arts Unlimited, Inc. ___ post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] set your options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/composer%40xnet.com ___ post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] set your options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
Re: [Hornlist] Conn 8D
In a message dated 2/28/2003 1:05:52 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I had a horn walk into my shop for a "bath" yesterday that I hadn't seen > yet - It is stamped Conn 8D on the bell, yet it is brass (thought those > were 28 Ds?) with silver slides and wasn't wound anything like an 8D, and > plays horribly! Have they changed the design? Is this a counterfit? It is > in a Conn case, six digit serial number with no letter, mechanical linkage > thumb and "jointed" spatuala arms, (which I have seen on new 8Ds that look > and act like an 8D). It was purchased over last summer by a local school > district - I do not know from where they purchased it. > First, what is the serial number, where is it stamped, what other engravings or markings are on the bell? The current 8DY (yellow 8D) has a curvy design around the "8D" which is engraved by laser. This is a suspicious horn in several ways. If it's a new 8DY, why is it not wrapped exactly like an 8D? If it has nickel silver tubes, then it must be either a new 8DY made in Eastlake OH or it's a counterfeit. Pre-letter 28Ds (yellow 8D's) had brass tubing throughout. The big problem is that it's not wrapped like an 8D. This smells like a beach full of Lake Erie alewives to me. Dave Weiner Brass Arts Unlimited, Inc. ___ post: [EMAIL PROTECTED] set your options at http://music.memphis.edu/mailman/options/horn/archive%40jab.org
