KR> canopy covering

2010-05-06 Thread WARRON GRAY
Thanks all of you guys for the suggestions. I will let you know what works best 
of these suggestions, starting with water , then Isopropyl Alcohol


KR> HAPI engine

2010-05-06 Thread hart...@charter.net
Joe,
For information concerning cracking of HAPI flywheels, check the archives at:
http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/search
and search "HAPI flywheels"
Rich Hartwig
Waunakee WI


KR> HAPI engine

2010-05-06 Thread hart...@charter.net
Joe,
For information concerning cracking of HAPI flywheels, check the archives at:
http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/search
and search "HAPI flywheels"
Rich Hartwig
Waunakee WI


KR> Further to Coating With Epoxy

2010-05-06 Thread Peter Johnson

Since I posted yesterday about surface coating with epoxy I have been 
reminded that there are products on the market that are designed for this 
purpose.  International Paints 'Everdure', and Smith's 'Clear Penetrating 
Epoxy Sealer' are two.  These products are designed for coating without 
glass fiber reinforcement by remaining quite flexible after curing.  They 
are not structural adhesives!

Structural epoxies such as T-88, WEST, System Three etc, thinned or not, are 
not flexible when cured.  Without glass fiber cloth as a reinforcement in 
the layup they are unable to withstand tensile loads put upon them if the 
wood substrate should swell.



Cheers!


Peter









KR> HAPI engine

2010-05-06 Thread Joe Walburn
Very much appreciated, Rich.  The more I read, the more I lean Corvair. 
Thanks, again.
Joe
- Original Message - 
From: 
To: 
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 2010 8:28 AM
Subject: KR> HAPI engine


Joe,
For information concerning cracking of HAPI flywheels, check the archives 
at:
http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/search
and search "HAPI flywheels"
Rich Hartwig
Waunakee WI

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KR> Remove decals, pinstripes and tape

2010-05-06 Thread Daniel Root

This is probably old news to many, especially you body and paint experts, so I 
apologize up front.   The KRnet archives have nothing on it, so this is a tip 
that will be useful to somebody, I hope.  


It can be a real pain to remove tape, decals and the residues they leave 
behind.  I?ve previously used a heat gun, razor blades, WD40, denatured 
alcohol, and other chemicals, all of which can be messy and tedious. The 
builder of my KR used a fair bit of decorative tape.  If I used the methods 
above, removing it was going to be several days of 
work.  So much so that I was considering 
feathering the edges and painting over it ( I know?tacky and unprofessional).

As luck would have it, I came across a device I?d never seen before.   It?s a 
large disk-shaped rubber eraser, shaped like a polishing or grinding wheel, 
chucked 
into a drill motor.  Mine?s an Astro Eraser Pad which came from my local auto 
paint and supply distributor (Ned?s, in Concord, CA).  3M sells a similar 
product called a ?Stripe Off Wheel?, and ACS has one in their catalog called a 
?Decal Eraser Wheel?. Harbor Freight doesn?t carry anything similar, nor do my 
local auto 
parts houses. Seems like I read that NAPA carries the 3M wheel.

The contact surface is made from the same stuff as the Art Gum erasers I used 
in mechanical drawing and art classes.  After just ten minutes with the wheel, 
the tape and adhesive is gone from the undersides of my wings.   It leaves 
behind little rubber 
crumbs which are easily vacuumed up.  The underlying surfaces are pristine.The 
small amount of adhesive (if any) 
which might be left behind, can be cleaned up with goo gone or WD40.

 This wheel is fast and freakin? AWESOME.





KR> HAPI engine

2010-05-06 Thread Mark Langford
Rich Hartwig wrote:

> For information concerning cracking of HAPI flywheels, check the archives 
> at:
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/search and search "HAPI flywheels"

And the one below is pretty graphic.  I wrote this a few years ago after 
seeing Jim Hill's.
-
And if it has an aluminum flywheel, check out the two photos at
http://www.krnet.org/misc/HAPI_flywheel/050917111m2.jpg and
http://www.krnet.org/misc/HAPI_flywheel/050917111m.jpg  .  This was on Jim
Hill's HAPI engine, and it appears to be a matter of seconds away from
coming apart.  Steve at Great Plains also has a cure for this, I believe.
What made it obvious was loads of end play on the crankshaft...the prop
would move fore and aft an eighth of an inch or so, rather than the .004" or
so it's supposed to be.

Mark Langford
n5...@hiwaay.net
website www.n56ml.com



KR> HAPI engine

2010-05-06 Thread John C Edwards
I too had a old 1835 HAPI engine on my KR-1 with 500hrs on it when I 
replaced the alternator last summer. I too found the same Scary Looking 
elongated holes on my flywheel! In retrospect, I was really glad the 
alternator failed!!!

On 5/6/2010 10:20 AM, Mark Langford wrote:
> Rich Hartwig wrote:
>
>
>> For information concerning cracking of HAPI flywheels, check the archives
>> at:
>> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/search and search "HAPI flywheels"
>>  
> And the one below is pretty graphic.  I wrote this a few years ago after
> seeing Jim Hill's.
> -
> And if it has an aluminum flywheel, check out the two photos at
> http://www.krnet.org/misc/HAPI_flywheel/050917111m2.jpg and
> http://www.krnet.org/misc/HAPI_flywheel/050917111m.jpg  .  This was on Jim
> Hill's HAPI engine, and it appears to be a matter of seconds away from
> coming apart.  Steve at Great Plains also has a cure for this, I believe.
> What made it obvious was loads of end play on the crankshaft...the prop
> would move fore and aft an eighth of an inch or so, rather than the .004" or
> so it's supposed to be.
>
> Mark Langford
> n5...@hiwaay.net
> website www.n56ml.com
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>
>
>


KR> canopy covering

2010-05-06 Thread Oscar Zuniga

>From the KRNet archives (Sid Wood):



I had heard and read all manner of horror stories about leaving the
coating on too long and how difficult to impossible this task was going
to be.  Sure enough after a couple hours of tedious picking at the edges
I figured there was something to those stories.  One sage advised using
kerosene, another praised WD-40; I did not relish cleaning up that sort
of mess.  I called the Spray Lat folks who advised me to remove the
coating within one year.  Yeah, right, look it's only been 23 years
since I got this bubble from RR.  The best they could come up with was
to put the Plexiglas in a tub of very hot water and dish detergent and
hope.  I don't have that big  of a tub.  Not to be deterred, the Spray
Lat engineer suggested putting towels on the canopy and soaking these
with boiling water.  And wished me good luck.
One of my Chapter 478 members suggested using a hair dryer to heat up
the canopy and the Spray Lat would peal right off.  Lo and behold, after
a bit of trial and singed fingers, the Spray Lat indeed peeled off in
two big sheets to reveal a most pristine bubble canopy.  It won't get
any better than that, especially thinking of all the Wisconsin bugs and
Florida sands that are waiting.
Moral of this story: 23-year old Spray Lat will readily release from
Plexiglas with application of heat (guess about 200 degrees F).
===

Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildr...@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net






KR> glassing 90 deg.

2010-05-06 Thread MICHAEL SYLVESTER

Hey Guy's, I've been quiet for a while but that's only because I've been busy 
as heck in the basement. She's coming along nicely. My question for tonight 
is...How do you get glass to bend 90 degrees without pulling up ? I'm referring 
to places like the bottom wing fillet that has to go 90 degrees from fuselage 
side to bottom of plane. I've got air pockets ! Help !

Mike Sylvester 
kr2s builder 
Birmingham,AL.

Cell no.205-966-3854


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KR> glassing 90 deg.

2010-05-06 Thread Darren Crompton
Hi Mike.

You want to lay the glass at 45 degrees to the long edge you are covering.
A layup will tend to pucker up when just going straight up and over tighter
radius'


Hope this helps..
-- 
Darren Crompton
AUSTRALIA

=
AN-BOLTS www.an-bolts.com.au
My building site: www.kr-2s.com

SAAA #7125 - Chapter 18
RA-Aus #25866
=


KR> 90 degrees

2010-05-06 Thread MICHAEL SYLVESTER

One more question.. If I'm having trouble with glassing a 90 degree bend, how 
am I going to glass the aileron spar that is more than 90 degrees ?

Mike Sylvester 
kr2s builder 
Birmingham,AL.

Cell no.205-966-3854


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KR> glassing 90 deg.

2010-05-06 Thread Lynn
Put a bead of stiff micro along there first.  or some foam sanded to 
profile you want.   Lynn   finished   Kr  never flown no medical

--
From: "MICHAEL SYLVESTER" 
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 2010 6:54 PM
To: "KRNET" 
Subject: KR> glassing 90 deg.

>
> Hey Guy's, I've been quiet for a while but that's only because I've been 
> busy as heck in the basement. She's coming along nicely. My question for 
> tonight is...How do you get glass to bend 90 degrees without pulling up ? 
> I'm referring to places like the bottom wing fillet that has to go 90 
> degrees from fuselage side to bottom of plane. I've got air pockets ! Help 
> !
>
> Mike Sylvester
> kr2s builder
> Birmingham,AL.
>
> Cell no.205-966-3854
>
>
> _
> Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your 
> inbox.
> http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html



>
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KR> 90 degrees

2010-05-06 Thread Larry H.
Darren is correct Mike, you need to be rolling glass around at 45 degree 
angles. When I have built Rutan designs, all sharp corner layups are with uni 
running at 45 degree angles and or bid running at 45 degree angles. Just turn 
and cut your bid so it rolls over corners at a 45 degree angle.
Larry Howell

PS: I have made some 90 degree bends like you are talking about in small areas 
before, but you have to have extra unwetted glass cloth to tape down away from 
your layup area or weight it down with something or you have to just stay with 
it until the resin begins to setup. Meaning you have to just keep it pulled 
down, stippling etc until it setsup to the point that you do not have to watch 
it any longer. This way is a real pain. Remember the fibers are strongest in 
straight lines, that is why it does not want to bend/kink in a 90 degree bend 
over.





From: MICHAEL SYLVESTER 
To: KRNET 
Sent: Thu, May 6, 2010 10:21:03 PM
Subject: KR> 90 degrees


One more question.. If I'm having trouble with glassing a 90 degree bend, how 
am I going to glass the aileron spar that is more than 90 degrees ?

Mike Sylvester 
kr2s builder 
Birmingham,AL.

Cell no.205-966-3854

                        
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KR> 90 degree bend.

2010-05-06 Thread Lee Van Dyke
I did a lay up in 2 parts when I did the trailing edge of my wing.  Fist I wet 
out part of the layup that would be on a flat surface. I let that kick then I 
wetted out the remainder and pulled it over the corner and pulled it tight with 
peel ply and taped it on the new edge to pull the glass tight over the bend.

Lee Van Dyke