KR> Flying Video
If you want motivation, then look no further than Marc's video. Great job Marc. One of these days... Stephen Teate Paradise, Texas -Original Message- From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Marc Baca Sent: Monday, January 06, 2014 12:46 PM To: KRnet Subject: KR> Flying Video KR folks; I'm still learning to fly my KR here at Chino Airport in California.? I hope to see many of you here at the coming KR Gathering.? Lately I've been working on finalizing some adjustments, repairs and minor modifications. I thought I'd share a flight video taken on my inexpensive dash cam. See link below. https://vimeo.com/82817972 Thanks for all the ideas. Marc Baca N13UG (Larry Buck KR-2) N31SB? (Sam Bailey KR-1) ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options ** The information in this email is confidential and may be legally privileged. If you are not an intended recipient, you should delete this message. Access to this email by anyone else is unauthorized, and any disclosure, copying, distribution or action taken or omitted in reliance on it is prohibited and may be unlawful. **
KR> Getting motivated
Pre heater will not help by the time you taxi out to the runway you will be frozen. -25f before the windchill. Joe. On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 6:03 PM, Mark Jones wrote: > - Original Message - >> Jones, Sounds like a good time to try out the pre heater and log some >> good cold weather performance numbers. BR. >> >> Mike Sylvester > > I thought about it today as it was clear skies and a lot of businesses > were shut down. Then the thought of brittle fiberglass cracking > entered my mind so basically I did what Paul did and that was staying > inside where it is warm. But I did not watch TV instead I worked on my > sales plan for 2014. What the hell is a Georgia boy doing lining in > Wisconsin anyway? > > Mark Jones (N886MJ) > Stevens Point, WI > E-mail: flykr2s at charter.net > Web: www.flykr2s.com > > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to > KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to > change options
KR> Getting motivated
Well, I give up. As I was pulling staples the power went out. Spent half and hour getting the generator going. we'll be ok tonight. -5 deg tonight. B. Paul Visk Belleville Il. 618-406-4705 Paul Visk - KR-2S Aircraft Builder's Log In a message dated 1/6/2014 5:36:56 P.M. Central Standard Time, shagster60 at hotmail.com writes: Jones, Sounds like a good time to try out the pre heater and log some good cold weather performance numbers. BR. Mike Sylvester kr2s builder Birmingham,AL. Cell no.205-966-3854 > From: PPaulVsk at aol.com > Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2014 17:20:29 -0500 > To: krnet at list.krnet.org > > You're lucky Paul. It is minus 21 with a wind chill of minus 38 here in > Stevens Point, WI. Now get off the lazy boy and go get something done in > the > garage. > > > > Mark Jones (N886MJ) > Stevens Point, WI > E-mail: flykr2s at charter.ne > > > _ (http://www.mykitlog.com/PaulVisk/) > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html >_ see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options _ (http://www.mykitlog.com/PaulVisk/)
KR> Prop clearance
At 03:12 PM 1/6/2014, you wrote: >The key here is the attitude of the aircraft. With the plane level, yes, >9" is 9" regardless of the size or shape of the airframe. But I think the >previous writer was talking about how that clearance is affected by the >attitude of the aircraft. For purposes of prop strike prevention, level, or slightly tail high is the only attitude that counts. Other attitudes are immaterial. If you don't have the desired clearance at that attitude, you either lengthen the gear or shorten the prop. Second level concern, will you have enough clearance to handle maximum gear deflection at gross weight . Some pilots can handle less clearance that others. I've seen a certain RV at our airport go negative 5 degrees or so on more than one occasion when landing. Watching that will give you a pucker pulse for a second or two. :-) Once, while landing a J5, I couldn't figure out why the prop wasn't dinging the pavement. After a second or two I pulled my head out of my back side and gave it back stick. It can happen in a second to anyone. There are times I can only attribute my longevity to luck. Larry Flesner
KR> Getting motivated
OK, I'll compromise. I'll go get my spar and bring it into the kitchen and pull the staples. : ) Paul Visk Belleville Il. 618-406-4705 _Paul Visk - KR-2S Aircraft Builder's Log In a message dated 1/6/2014 2:53:31 P.M. Central Standard Time, flykr2s at charter.net writes: - Original Message - > But when it's minus 4 deg. and it's so dang hard to get motivated > when it's so warm sitting in my lazy boy watching Dr. Oz with my wife. > > Paul Visk You're lucky Paul. It is minus 21 with a wind chill of minus 38 here in Stevens Point, WI. Now get off the lazy boy and go get something done in the garage. Mark Jones (N886MJ) Stevens Point, WI E-mail: flykr2s at charter.ne _ (http://www.mykitlog.com/PaulVisk/)
KR> Cowl Construction
I was asked off-line how I located where to cut the air inlets after glassing the foam plug. I had put holes in the foam at each corner of the prospective inlet and filled these holes with micro during the filling and sanding of the foam. After the fiberglass had set, the white micro spots were visible under the fiberglass. Marked lines on the fiberglass with a wet erase Sharpie and cut with a Dremel plastic cutting wheel. Just to hedge the bet, I cut about 3/16" inside the lines. Ripped off the cut fiberglass rectangle; hogged out the foam from the center and filed to the final shape after spotting the duct behind the nose bowl foam. I put the micro on the nose bowl fiberglass after cutting the air inlets. Sid Wood Tri-gear KR-2 N6242 Mechanicsville, MD, USA >> Here is a picture of the new cowl for my tri-gear KR-2 with fresh >> fiberglass, micro slurry and air inlets. >> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/158194715052ca11c154220.jpg >>
KR> Cowl Construction
Larry, Last week there was a mention on the KRnet of using alcohol to thin micro slurry. I have never done that; did not occur to me. However, with that thought in mind, I tried using Epoxy Reducer. I just happened to have some left over from trying to get the Smooth Prime to work. While we are here: Smooth Prime may work for fabric finishing, but it is expensive and I finally had to abandon that for micro slurry and get on with finishing my KR-2. Epoxy Reducer E-500 is produced by Poly Fiber and available from Aircraft Spruce. It contains Toluene, Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK), and Methyl Isobutyl Ketone (MIK). The label is not kidding when it says to have ventilation. Lots of fumes here. To make the micro slurry, I mixed the West System resin and 206 hardener, then added micro, mixed and added more micro until the ball was like bread dough. I could pick the whole ball up out of the cup with the stirring stick. Then I added a few drops of Epoxy Reducer, mixed that, added a few more drops and mixed. (Here is where a West System pump in the Reducer gallon can really comes in handy.) Kept adding a few drops at a time until the mixture was like warm cake icing out of a can. Spreads on great. Need lots of ventilation due to the Toluene, MEK and MIK in the Reducer. After 24 hour cure at 68 degrees F, the micro with Epoxy Reducer sands very easily. Some of the cowl was done with just micro and epoxy; the extra epoxy in the mix makes for a much more difficult time for sanding. The extra epoxy tends to gum up and clog the sandpaper, especially with a power sander. Bottom line: Highly recommend getting all the micro balloons in the epoxy that it can hold; then getting the ball to flow with Epoxy Reducer. Thin the slurry to your spreading comfort level. The Epoxy Reducer evaporates quickly and completely leaving the epoxy intact. Spread the slurry quickly. On top, you can pour it on and let gravity level it. On sides and bottom, gravity is not your friend; so you need a thicker slurry with less Reducer. A rotisserie would be handy for this application. Sid Wood Tri-gear KR-2 N6242 Mechanicsville, MD, USA > -- > Sid, do you use alcohol in your micro slurry? Does that sand fairly > easily? > Thanks, Larry Bell >> >> Here is a picture of the new cowl for my tri-gear KR-2 with fresh >> fiberglass, micro slurry and air inlets. >> https://s3.amazonaws.com/expercraft/sidwood/158194715052ca11c154220.jpg >> >> Bernie Wunder provided lots of help above and beyond laying up fiberglass >> for this project. Thank you Bernie. >> >> Next up is sanding, cutting and fitting. >> >> Sid Wood >> >>
KR> Getting motivated
I always looked at it as every day lost to procrastination this year was a lost day of flying this delightful machine next year. ?But then I've completed three planes now and never had a problem with motivation to build. ?My only hold ups have been for health and logistical reasons. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM > - Original Message - > From: PPaulVsk at aol.com > Sent: 01/06/14 01:23 PM > To: krnet at list.krnet.org > Subject: KR> Getting motivated > > I'm stuck at the house today due to weather. It's a perfect importunity to > go to the garage and trun on the space heater and pull some staples or > something. But when it's minus 4 deg. and it's so dang hard to get motivated > when it's so warm sitting in my lazy boy watching Dr. Oz with my wife. > > Paul Visk > Belleville Il. > 618-406-4705 > _Paul Visk - KR-2S Aircraft Builder's Log_ > (http://www.mykitlog.com/PaulVisk/)
KR> Getting motivated
I'm stuck at the house today due to weather. It's a perfect importunity to go to the garage and trun on the space heater and pull some staples or something. But when it's minus 4 deg. and it's so dang hard to get motivated when it's so warm sitting in my lazy boy watching Dr. Oz with my wife. Paul Visk Belleville Il. 618-406-4705 _Paul Visk - KR-2S Aircraft Builder's Log_ (http://www.mykitlog.com/PaulVisk/)
KR> Getting motivated
- Original Message - > But when it's minus 4 deg. and it's so dang hard to get motivated > when it's so warm sitting in my lazy boy watching Dr. Oz with my wife. > > Paul Visk You're lucky Paul. It is minus 21 with a wind chill of minus 38 here in Stevens Point, WI. Now get off the lazy boy and go get something done in the garage. Mark Jones (N886MJ) Stevens Point, WI E-mail: flykr2s at charter.net Web: www.flykr2s.com
KR> Getting motivated
OK, someone nearby go poke Paul with a sharp stick to get him motivated! I found the perfect motivation. Just move to an airpark and walk out your front door every nice day and watch your neighbors doing 200 MPH flybys down the runway and aerobatics just off the downwind while you are stuck on the ground. Original Message Subject: KR> Getting motivated From: PPaulVsk at aol.com List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org Date: Mon, January 06, 2014 1:23 pm To: krnet at list.krnet.org I'm stuck at the house today due to weather. It's a perfect importunity to go to the garage and trun on the space heater and pull some staples or something. But when it's minus 4 deg. and it's so dang hard to get motivated when it's so warm sitting in my lazy boy watching Dr. Oz with my wife. Paul Visk Belleville Il. 618-406-4705 _Paul Visk - KR-2S Aircraft Builder's Log_ (http://www.mykitlog.com/PaulVisk/) ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options
KR> Tail Section Hinge Points
Hi Mark, I have seen the 2 options you describe but dislike both. The servo in the elevator adds a little weight to the control which adversely affects flutter susceptiblity. This meanst additional counterbalance weight which in turn adds mass in the tail, something I'd like to avoid . The nyrod into the tail option has a couple of 'S' bends which adds a little friction to the control rod. Have you or anyone reading this seen the servo mounted in the horizontal stab with a shorter nyrod directly in line with the tab? Paul, Brisbane Australia. Sent from my HTC One XL on the Telstra 4G network - Reply message - From: "Mark Langford" To: "KRnet" Subject: KR> Tail Section Hinge Points List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org Date: Mon, Jan 6, 2014 11:55 AM See http://www.n56ml.com/n891jf/nyrod.jpg for a photo... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com website at http://www.N56ML.com
KR> FAR Prop clearance
You reminded me of something I forgot to include. The required clearance depends a lot on the shock absorbtion arrangement also. Some planes have very stiff legs. Some are very soft and sink quite a bit just from added weight. By the length of the plane I was referring to the distance forward between the wheels and the prop. On some planes with a very long nose you don't need to get much nose down to eat up all your prop clearance. On planes with less distance between the mains and prop you need to get much more nose down to hit the prop. Obviously, nose down is just one way to hit the prop, flexing the gear is the second so both need to be looked at together. The purpose of my post was to say that the FAA minimum is not a hard number if you have a shorter distance from the mains to the prop and stiffer legs. Original Message Subject: KR> FAR Prop clearance From: Larry Flesner List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org Date: Mon, January 06, 2014 9:01 am To: KRnet At 08:59 AM 1/6/2014, you wrote: >9" on a Citabria or Cub is not the same as 9" on a KR or other smaller >plane. When you have a larger plane with the prop many feet in front >of the gear you don't need to get the tail up to a very high angle >before that 9" turns into zero as you do with a shorter plane with the >prop not as far in front of the gear. +++ I would agree that there are a number of homebuilts that don't have the recommended prop clearance. I would , however, respectfully disagree with the above statement. 9 inches is 9 inches in any type of airplane, nose wheel or tail dragger, on the ground in a level attitude. The SINGLE variable in prop clearance is the length of the landing gear, not the length of the airframe. Marty Roberts had an 0-200 swinging a 60" prop on a plans built KR2 with the 24" Diehl gear legs and had maybe 4 inches of prop clearance if he was lucky. My KR, same setup, prop size, etc., is stretched 24 inches and I have 9+ inches of clearance. The difference is that I'm using 30 inch gear legs (cut to 29 inches during fitting). The Corsair swung a GIANT size prop. Problem was they couldn't make the gear long enough for ground clearance and remain strong enough to support the aircraft in landing. Their solution, raise the fuselage by angling the wing down to the gear which enabled them to use a shorter gear length. So, regardless of the length of your airframe, build your gear to give you the prop clearance you want, whatever that happens to be. Larry Flesner ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options
KR> Prop clearance now extended nose gear
Hi all. In response to Stef's comment about extending the nose gear (on a tri-cycle) to just below take off attitude. I have done just that, but I am still a fair distance from starting tests on the KR2S. Have lots of glassing, sanding and painting to do, but I would also love to hear comments on this nose high attitude on tri-gear KR2. Mine is (Wild guess) approximately 15-20 degrees up. but I will attempt to do some measuring later. It allows me to see the ground about 20-30 meters in front of the plane when sitting in a normal sitting attitude, but with my neck stretched forward. Take care and a blessed 2014 to all. Pierre
KR> Trim tab activation
At 06:53 AM 1/6/2014, you wrote: >I'm quite familiar with the tab in the elevator, and that's the way >I'll do my next plane. See http://www.n56ml.com/trimtab/index.html for >details. The piano hinge Mark used is much heavier than necessary and a bit of an over-kill. I used the tube within a tube suggested in the plans and it works quite well. Get some thin wall, light weight tubing from the hobby or hardware store. We're talking very, very, light weight. Just insure you don't get any epoxy weeping into the end of the movable tube. Coat the ends of the movable tube with Vaseline or something. Cutting the tab from the finished elevator means you only have to work on the hinge. Larry Flesner
KR> Trim tab activation
PK.Smith wrote: >> Hi Mark, I have seen the 2 options you describe but dislike both. The servo in the elevator adds a little weight to the control which adversely affects flutter susceptiblity. This meanst additional counterbalance weight which in turn adds mass in the tail, something I'd like to avoid .<< N56ML has the trimtab servo in the elevator, and it's done 240 mph, so I don't share the flutter concern. The amount of drag in N891JF nyrod is minimal, I doubt it's an ounce. If I had a fish scale designed for goldfish, I'd measure it for you. Aerodynamic forces on the trim tab are far greater. Since you're so concerned about weight in the tail, consider the fact that the servo is now 24" behind the pilot's seat mounted solidly to the fuselage, with the nyrod running back to the elevator from there, so where Jim Faughn located it answers your aft CG concern, and the drag is not an issue. This was proven in 320 hours of flight, because most of the time it was fully deflected because it was a bit nose heavy and he wasn't wild about fixed trim tabs. I immediately added a trim tab to the opposite elevator to neutralize stick-free behavior, so the trim tab no longer works so hard. In the rework, I've likely fixed the nose-heavy situation as well. There are plenty of ways to do this, but I have to admit that I went for the way that was easiest...fix what's there, rather than tear into the nicely painted elevator (while underneath on my back, looking up) to install a servo. I'm quite familiar with the tab in the elevator, and that's the way I'll do my next plane. See http://www.n56ml.com/trimtab/index.html for details. This tiny little trim tab was way more than N56ML ever needed. I did all my flying in the middle of the band, never seeing full trim. I could have used it all for full flap operation, but I'm not one to fool around with the trim all day when there's flying to be done anyway... Mark Langford, Harvest, AL ML at N56ML.com www.N56ML.com
KR> Trim servo in elevator
I put a Ray Allen trim servo in my elevator and had no issues with it. In fact, I have had an electric trim servo in the Black Bird since she was born. See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics? Peoples Choice at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il ? MVN Best KR at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il ? MVN Best Interior at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il ? MVN Best Paint at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il ? MVN Best Firwwall Forward at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il ? MVN Daniel R. Heath -?Lexington, SC -Original Message- Have you or anyone reading this seen the servo mounted in the horizontal stab with a shorter nyrod directly in line with the tab?
