KR> Foam filled tanks.

[Cláudio Holanda]

Dear Friends:

Here, in Brasil, we preferfuel tanks made with aluminum (best alloy is 
5052 -  used for boats) . But why?
Many guys here  are using autogas  and our gasoline has up to 25% of 
alcohol.

Not immediately, but in a few months the alcohol  reacts with the resin 
(epoxi), so we have a kind of  "gum" that, very often,
obstructs the carburetor.

Regards for all,

Claudio Holanda
Brasil
- Original Message - 
From: "Darren Crompton" 
To: "KRnet" 
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 4:20 AM
Subject: Re: KR> Foam filled tanks.


> JG
>
> Here in Australia we have a saying that goes "RTFQ"
> If you read the question, you will see that nowhere did I mention about
> building the fuel tanks out of fiberglass.  Maybe I need to be a little 
> more
> clear for you, but the foam I am referring to is made specifically for 
> that
> application.  See  http://www.atlltd.com/bafflefoam.htm .  I know there 
> are
> KRs out there that use similar eg. http://krnet.org/krs/wc/
>
>>From what I have seen the majority of KRs built use fuel tanks constructed
> with fiberglass anyway which unfortunately places you in the minority, 
> much
> like climbing any aircraft above 10,000 feet.
>
>
>
>
> On 6/5/07, John  wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ok,
>>
>> I have to mention something here.  Please anybody
>> chime in if you have better experiences..
>>
>> I used to build glass and wood boats.  I built
>> more than a few fiberglass fuel tanks.
>>
>> Just building a hollow tank and having no debris
>> in the fuel coming out is a big challenge.  It generally
>> took three or four disposable fuel filters and
>> as many tanks of fuel run through to get most of the
>> garbage out.  Fortunately in the boat it did
>> not matter if the engine quit with a plugged
>> filter on a hot calm summer day on the lake.
>>
>> Having it quit on the upwind in your airplane
>> is a different story.
>>
>> Now someone is suggesting filling the thing with FOAM?!?
>> How much free foam will it take to block the fuel filter?
>>
>> I know others here do, Ask them for their experiences.
>> I would never even use a fiberglass tank in an airplane,
>> much less one with anything inside that could break off
>> and plug the system.
>>
>> Give me a nice, clean aluminum tank, pickled in fuel.
>>
>> jg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, 2007-06-05 at 11:04 +1000, Darren Crompton wrote:
>> > If using foam in the fuel tanks to reduce "sloshing", are you able to 
>> > do
>> > away with building in baffles and how much does the foam reduce tank
>> > capacity by?
>> >
>> > Cheers
>> >
>>
>>
>> ___
>> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
>> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
>> Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to
>> http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php
>> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>>
>
>
>
> -- 
> Darren Crompton
> AUSTRALIA
>
> My web site: www.kr-2s.com
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to 
> http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.9/832 - Release Date: 4/6/2007 
> 18:43
>
> 

KR> Darren Crompton - Cracked longerons

[Cláudio Holanda]

Dear Darren:

I would like to suggest you: Don't try to replace the cracked sections. Do as 
proposed by Dan Freeman: reinforce them.  It is the best solution.

Just one remark for new builders: pay attention to the  orientation  of the 
wood growing rings. For  fuselage longerons the best way to avoid cracks  is 
put them vertical (parallel to the lateral covering -plywood).  

Regards, for all

Claudio Holanda

KR> Glue joints not holding

[Cláudio Holanda]

>From : cláu...@itaroca.com.br 

A long time ago when building a KR-1, together with  two good friends (Homero 
Brandão and Matheus Abram), we did a big amount of tests regarding glued joints 
using epoxi resin (in our case case Araldite - TM  from Ciba Geigy).

>From tests we learned the best way to glue wood:

   Glue  surfaces cleaned an as smoth as possible  ( never  glue 
rough surfaces) 

   Soak the resin so as to obtain the  best impregnation in between 
 the fibers of the wood

   Do not put  too much clamp pressure to  avoid the ejection of 
all resin between the surfaces to be glued. We must have 
   a film of resin between the surfaces.

   Never put more hardener than recomended for the mixing ratio:  
Hardener  in excess wil not permit the right cure and re-
   sults in a kind of  "rubbery  resin" , very weak. For your 
information, normal epoxies will have full strenght after 72   
hours of cure.

   Avoid to glue during days with high degree of humidity.

Regards for all,

Cláudio Holanda

KR> Books

[Cláudio Holanda]

By recommendation from one of our KRneters I bought the excellent book: 
Simplified Aircraft Design for Homebuilders -
Author Daniel P. Raymer. (see site www.aircraftdesign.com).

However, for those interested in a deep dive regarding design of small planes I 
would like to recommend the wonderfull book from 
Darrol Stinton,:  The Design of The Aeroplane, 619 pages, published by BSP 
professional books, printed in Great Britain by William Clowes Limited.

Mr. Stinton, Aeronautical  Engineer, RAF retired pilot,  and test 
pilot-surveyor at Farnborough for the British Civil Aviation Authority did a 
very nice job.

Hope you will find this book at Amazon Bookstore.

Regards for all,

Cláudio Holanda

clau...@itaroca.com.br

KR> Termite

[Cláudio Holanda]

Dear Phil:

Yes, some termites (future queens and males), has wings
to mate.

Regards,

Cláudio Holanda
- Original Message - 
From: "Phil Matheson" <phillipmathe...@bigpond.com>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 08, 2007 4:35 AM
Subject: Re: KR> Termite


> Is this a late April fools Joke??
>
> Never seen a winged termite
>
> Lucky it was not an RV and get metal mites, they cause rust.
>
>
> Phil Matheson
> SAAA Ch. 20
> VH-PKR
> Australia
>
> EMAIL:   phillipmathe...@bigpond.com
> KR Web Page: www.philskr2.50megs.com
> http://www.vw-engines.com/
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to 
> http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>
> 

KR> Termite

[Cláudio Holanda]

Dear Nick:

The winged termite could be a female searching for a place to put eggs and 
start a new "termite community".

Look for small holes in your pieces of wood. No holes, no termites. However, 
will be better to make something to kill others possibilities.

Regads,

Claudio Holanda
- Original Message - 
From: "Nick Brennan" 
To: "KRnet" 
Sent: Sunday, April 08, 2007 1:51 AM
Subject: KR> Termite


> So today, I'm buzzing along, actually making a lot of headway (finished
> skinning one side of the fuse, now waiting for the glue to dry on the 
> scarf
> joint on the other side) and I look at my work table and see a termine.
> Just one, little winged termite.
>
> Does this mean there are more that I'm not seeing, or is it possible to 
> have
> one single termite?
>
> Also - am I ruined now?
>
> Nick Brennan
> nickdbren...@comcast.net
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to 
> http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>
> 

KR> sanding joints?

[Cláudio Holanda]

Dear Ed:

Roughing up the wood surface isn't a good practice. Coarse grain sandpaper 
will "fray" the wood fibers and will weaken your surfaces to be glued. The 
best is  obtain a surface as smooth as possible using fine grain sandpaper 
or a plane. Clean the surfaces by means of a piece of cloth  using thiner, 
absolute alcohol  or  nails varnish remover. After dry (only a few minutes), 
put the resin trying to do a good impregnation so as the resin can penetrate 
the surfaces. After that put some excess of resin and clamp.

Regards,
Cláudio Holanda
clau...@itaroca.com.br

--
- Original Message - 
From: "Ed Janssen" <ejans...@chipsnet.com>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2007 11:50 PM
Subject: Re: KR> sanding joints?


> Most of us seem to accept this as gospel, but it seems to me that what
> little sanding "dust" is present, after brushing it off or vacuuming, 
> should
> easily be soaked up by the T-88 and the resultant mixture would then be
> similar to a very light form of flox which is considered to be structural.
> Doesn't seem that the dust would effectively plug up the pores of the wood
> to the extent that the T-88 wouldn't eventually and successfully soak in 
> to
> the wood.  I can see where the accepted idea of roughing up the wood 
> surface
> with coarse sandpaper is a good move because it increases the surface area
> for gluing.  Has anyone made up some test pieces to prove or disprove?
>
> Ed Janssen
>
>
>
>
>> Sanding lets dust build up in the pores of the wood and
>> lessens glue penetration, Virg
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to 
> http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>
> 

KR> Spruce vs Douglas Fir

[Cláudio Holanda]

Dear Darren:

Here, in Brasil, we are using since the 30's  a special wood to built 
airplanes  named FREIJÓ.  In accordance with some stories and/or tales, this 
wood was used to built the main structure of the famous, II  WW , British 
Bomber the  (De Havilland? ) " Mosquito". (Some Friend in England could 
check this information?).

Freijó is a little bit heavy than Spruce but is, at least, 20% stronger. We 
did some tests before starting to built a KR-1 and the average strenght in 
tension (Dark Freijó), was  1800Kgf  per square centimeter ( 11,611 lb/in²).

If you want, I can check here prices and freight costs .

Best regards,
Claudio Holanda
  -  
Original Message - 
From: "Darren Crompton" 
To: 
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 7:37 AM
Subject: KR> Spruce vs Douglas Fir


>I am ready to order my timber and being on a very tight budget, I am
> seriously considering douglas fir as an alternative to spruce.  The spruce
> kit machined and delivered from an interstate supplier (Australia) is 
> going
> to cost $3,000AU ($2,365US).  Douglas fir on the other hand will be about
> 1/2 that price.
>
>>From what I have seen, fir will be about 15% heavier and is also stronger.
> I am a fairly light fella at 155lb and my girlfriend is 110lb, (don't let
> her know I shared that piece of information with the entire Internet!), so
> weight gained by using fir can be more than offset by our light frames.
>
> I'd appreciate some opinions on my choice.
>
> Thanks.
> Darren Crompton
> AUSTRALIA
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to 
> http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>
>