KR> O200 mount and nose leg

[GavinandLouise]

Well I've built my O200 engine mount over the last couple of days, from plans 
kindly supplied by Jeff Scott, Thanks Jeff.
But as we all know the plans are for a tail dragger and not a trike, therefore 
they don't have provisions for a nose wheel.
Now I've got a nose leg similar to the Dan Diehl type and I have a piece of 1 
1/4" I.D. tube that my nose leg slides neatly inside. I intend to fix it to the 
firewall, and also brace it to the engine mount tubes like some I've seen.
The question is How long do I make this 1 1/4" I.D. tube to give enough support 
to the nose leg???
Does this seem to be a good way of supporting the nose leg??



Thanks 
Gavin

KR> wing

[GavinandLouise]

Hi all,
While we are on the subject of the new wing profile, I'm just starting my  
outer wing panels and though I've followed the plans, it seems that when I get 
to sanding the ribs and panels down using the outer stub wing ply template as a 
guide, the area around the join at the WAF's won't work out.  
The wing template on my stub wing is 11/2" from the end of the stub spar and 
this means that when I put my sanding board on the outer wing especially on the 
under side the spar doesn't line up with the stub. It's a geometry thing 
really, because of the dihedral.
What I'm planning on doing is making some more temporary templates to use 
attached to the very end of the stub spar or outer spars for sanding purposes 
only.
Has anybody done this?? Is this standard practice??


Thanks

Gavin

KR> kr wings

[GavinandLouise]

Yes you have read properly, and no I haven't added the foam and glass to the
so called butt end of the centre section as yet. maybe I should do that and
that will fix my problem.
It's just that the plans call for the ply rib to be used as the guide and it
also says that the rib should be a little way in from the end as well, which
doesn't work out.

Gav

. 
> I hope I read Your problem correctly
> Don Chisholm chizmsupholst...@rogers.com
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
>
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>

KR> Fw: [saaa_ch20] Instrument Repairs

[GavinandLouise]

Just buy a new one, there have been a few serviceable ASI's on ebay
Australia lately.

Gav
> How can repair them ??Or just buy a new one??
> Phil Matheson
http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> spar carbon fiber

[GavinandLouise]

Enough about spars already!!! this has been flogged a thousand times.
There must be a structural engineer out there somewhere who would be only
too happy to answer any questions about this issue.
So maybe we can put it to rest, and only focus on the facts of this issue as
documented by someone who really knows.

Gav

KR> spar carbon fiber

[GavinandLouise]

Thanks Don.

Gav


- Original Message -
From: "Donald Reid" 
To: "KRnet" 
Sent: Friday, December 03, 2004 8:51 PM
Subject: Re: KR> spar carbon fiber


> At 05:42 PM 12/3/2004, you wrote:
> >Enough about spars already!!! this has been flogged a thousand times.
> >There must be a structural engineer out there somewhere who would be only
> >too happy to answer any questions about this issue.
>
> I am a licensed professional engineer and I gave my short answer
> yesterday.  To repeat: "If you don't know what you are doing, don't do
it."
>
> This is not the correct forum to design a critical wing structure.  Most
of
> the ideas that have been proposed have been anywhere from silly to
dangerous.
>
> One more time: "If you don't know what you are doing, don't do it."
>
>
>
> Don Reid  -  donreid "at" peoplepc.com
> Bumpass, Va
>
> Visit my web sites at:
>
> AeroFoil, a 2-D Airfoil Design And Analysis Computer Program:
> http://aerofoilengineering.com
>
> KR2XL construction: http://aerofoilengineering.com/KR/KR2XL.htm
> Aviation Surplus: http://aerofoilengineering.com/PartsListing/Airparts.htm
> EAA Chapter 231: http://eaa231.org
> Ultralights: http://usua250.org
> VA EAA State Fly-in: http://vaeaa.org
>
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
>
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> G limit

[GavinandLouise]

. 
>
>> Because you have added to the length of the wing you have added to the
> bending moment at the fuselage (the lift loads are farther from the
> fuselage).
>
I disagree that lift loads are much larger farther from the fuselage on the
new 504xx wing designs!
Maybe someone can shed some light on this? the chord of the wing decreases
as the wing tapers to the tip, therefore reducing the available lift as the
wing tapers due to reduces area.
Now I know that there is a leverage component added as the wing gets further
from the attach fittings but is this compensated for by the reduced wing
area as it tapers away?
Also it is important to remember that the wing (in the case of the standard
KR wing design with a constant chord) doesn't lift the plane at the tip thus
producing a huge leverage moment at the tip, the lift is evenly distributed
over the span thus trying to lift the wing almost vertically evenly, and not
having the so called bending moment as some think.
So I wonder if there is more force on the attach fittings in a vertical
shear than in a tension and compression scenario as first thought???
Maybe someone can shed some light on this.

Gav

KR> Spruce order

[GavinandLouise]

I didn't get a list with mine either John.

Gav
- Original Message - ,
> I'm building a KR2S.
> As I'm the second owner of the project it is possiblr that the list
> was lost along the way, or sent to a 

KR> Attn John Bavington

[GavinandLouise]

Sorry all this is for John Bavington,
John all my messaged to  your e-mail address bounce right back at me !!! Have 
you another address?

Gav 

KR> Adjustable Rudder Pedals

[GavinandLouise]

Put a cushion behind her back and let her sit foreword a little!

Gav




- Original Message -
From: "Dean Cooper" 
To: "KRnet" 
Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2004 2:37 PM
Subject: Re: KR> Adjustable Rudder Pedals


> Mark wrote:
> >Has anyone built independantly adjustable rudder pedals, and if so how?
>
>
> Mark,
>
> The quickest and easiest way I can think of is to make some "platform"
> blocks to either permanently or temporarily attach to the forward side of
> the passenger pedals.  These could move the pedals aft 2-3 inches, while
> maintaining the rudder pedal attach point.  Obviously, this does not
address
> braking, which would have to be addressed differently (two completely
> independant pedals and brake system), but if you're looking for her to
take
> the controls in flight, this might work.  This was just what came to mind.
> I have not tested nor seen these in action (my disclaimer...  :-)
>
> Good Luck.
>
>
> Dean Cooper
> Jacksonville, FL
> Email me at dean_coo...@bellsouth.net
> See my KR project at www.geocities.com/djramccoop1/KR2_Home.html
>
>
>
> ___
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Spinners

[GavinandLouise]

Hi all,
Does anybody know of any good sources of information for fabricating fibreglass 
spinners??

Thanks

Gav

KR> Polishing Canopy (Long)

[GavinandLouise]

Here's the latest on polishing my canopy.
I bought this canopy from a fellow builder unused for less than half price, 
Seemed too good to refuse and in my haste, I failed to notice a fair few 
scratches it got while laying around in his workshop.
Fact is when I got it home and out in direct sunlight I was disappointed that I 
bought it at all.
Anyway being the type of person that I am I don't give up easily, and I decided 
to try polishing out most of the scratches. Here is how I'm going about it.
First polish out the heavy (deep)scratches with 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper.
Next I used my 7" sander polisher with a high density foam rubber buffing pad 
mounted, on the slow speed setting.(Taking extreme care not to over heat the 
plastic and scorch it)
With this pad I used a buffing compound made for plastics, the one I used is 
made by Sutton, for compound polishing. It's a light blue stick of clay type 
material and is applied to the wheel while it's spinning.
This achieves good results for the scratches but leaves the surface cloudy.
After polishing with this material I buffed the surface with a very soft terry 
towelling cloth to remove any excess buffing compound.
Then I take a new and perfectly clean lams wool machine buff pad, and put it on 
my rubber backing disc on the sander polisher again on slow speed, Buff away 
merrily with just the plain lamswool and the surface shines beautifully.
Next coat the surface with a good quality automotive polishing wax and hand 
buff off.

JOB DONE

This method has yielded a surface not as good as new but close to it!!! It 
looks like a new screen that has been cleaned quite a few times and may not be 
great flying into the sun. 
As always try it on something that can't be seen or some scrap.
Yet to be tested.

As they say results may vary.


Gav

KR> Scratches in Lexen

[GavinandLouise]

Hi All,
I've searched the archives for a good way to remove scratches from lexen, and 
can't find an answer. 
Can anyone tell me of their successes with lexen and how they went about it??

Thanks 

Gav

KR> PVC Fuel tanks/ alum tubes

[GavinandLouise]

Can I just add that In a properly balanced turn the fuel will never uncover
the fuel pickups!! gravity has nothing to do with it. It's only when the
ball isn't cantered properly this can happen, and also baffles won't stop
anything except slosh in the tanks.

Gav


- Original Message -
From: 
To: "KRnet" 
Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2004 10:33 AM
Subject: Re: KR> PVC Fuel tanks/ alum tubes


> Larry
>
> I think that there some people that are aware of the Grumman AA1 which had
a
> spar and wing tank of just the very thing.  I remember that I was told
that
> because of the gravity in manuvers that you could run the risk of fuel
> starvation.  Well, I tend not to think that way what with the baffleing
and
> that mesh-net that can be put into the tank.  I think that the Grumman AA1
> had baffles in the tank.  And, the new extended range tanks for the AA1
are
> 8" dia. agri irrigation pipes.  I just think that the whole conversation
> about the use of auto gas would come to a hualt with the use of the pipes
as
> fuel tanks.
>
> And it sure seems that with baffleing, the starvation would be cured.
>
> Greg Martin
> - Original Message -
> From: "larry flesner" 
> To: "KRnet" 
> Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2004 4:46 PM
> Subject: KR> PVC Fuel tanks/ alum tubes
>
>
> > Instead of using PVC wing tanks we
> > >could use aluminum thin walled agricultural tubing. the stuff used in
the
> > >giant traveling irrigators. It comes in standard sizes from 2 to 12
inch
> > >diameter, from .050 to 094 wall thickness. <<
> > >++
> > >>You just won "most useful post" with that one!
> > =>++
> > >I agree, but with a question.  Would the "explosafe" type foam filler
act
> as
> > >a baffle?  if not, what would we use for slosh baffles?
> > >Allen G. Wiesner
> > ++
> >
> > How about a small diameter alum tube with disc welded on at
> > several locations slipped inside the larger tube.  If the smaller
> > tube were hollow and had a number of holes in it you'd not
> > lose much capasity.  The disc would be self centering and
> > rather light if they had several 1/2" diameter holes.
> >
> > Larry Flesner
> >
> >
> >
> > ___
> > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>
>
> ___
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Canopy hinge

[GavinandLouise]

Can anybody see any problems with drilling 1/4 holes in the top longerons to 
secure my canopy hinge? 
I know 1/4 is a big hole to drill in the longerons but I have been using what 
we call "T" nuts over here for anything that I can. They are so convenient 
especially for places like the canopy hinge, where you can never get to the nut 
again. Problem is I can only get them in 1/4".
I'm using 2" open width stainless steel piano hinge for the canopy and the 
ailerons, I know it's heavier but surely about 1lb in weight is worth saving 
about $300 AUD for hinges alone.

Thanks

Gav   

KR> Canopy hinge - drilling 1/4 holes

[GavinandLouise]

I expected that question and you are exactly right, there is no trouble
getting to the nuts under the longerons. I was just trying to keep some
things standardised.
Thanks I'll contact you off the list.

Gav




 Original Message -
From: "Dan Heath" 
To: 
Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2004 7:06 PM
Subject: Re: KR> Canopy hinge - drilling 1/4 holes


> Gavin,
>
> I can see your not being able to the to the nut inside the canopy frame,
but
> why can you not get to the nut that is under the longeron. I believe that
I
> have some T nuts as small as #6 and if you mail me off NET, with your
> address, I will be glad to send you some. And I would have a problem with
> drilling 1/4" holes in the top of the longeron where it is the weakest as
> there is no supporting structure over that area.
>
> da...@alltel.net
>
> "There is a time for building and a time for GOING TO THE GATHERING, and
the
> time for building has long since expired."
>
> See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering http://KRGathering.org
>
> See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics
>
> Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC
>
>
> ___
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Canopy hinge - drilling 1/4 holes

[GavinandLouise]

Do most people drill through the longeron or do they use self tapping wood
screws to attach the canopy?
Have you ever seen the tiny little hinges holding the door on your average
Cessna





- Original Message -
From: "Dan Heath" 
To: 
Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2004 7:06 PM
Subject: Re: KR> Canopy hinge - drilling 1/4 holes


> Gavin,
>
> I can see your not being able to the to the nut inside the canopy frame,
but
> why can you not get to the nut that is under the longeron. I believe that
I
> have some T nuts as small as #6 and if you mail me off NET, with your
> address, I will be glad to send you some. And I would have a problem with
> drilling 1/4" holes in the top of the longeron where it is the weakest as
> there is no supporting structure over that area.
>
> da...@alltel.net
>
> "There is a time for building and a time for GOING TO THE GATHERING, and
the
> time for building has long since expired."
>
> See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering http://KRGathering.org
>
> See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics
>
> Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC
>
>
> ___
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Piano hinges

[GavinandLouise]

OK all you technical wizards, can anybody tell me the real difference between 
6061 T6 aluminium piano hinges, and 5005 H34 Aluminium piano hinges??  
We have already been down the track of extruded verses rolled hinges and the 
feeling seems to be that it doesn't matter.
I have the latter available to me here but the 6061 is harder to get here and I 
may have to source it from the U.S.
It would be good if the 5005 H34 is good enough for ailerons.

Thanks 

Gav

KR> Hinges

[GavinandLouise]

Here we are I've found some info, I just need someone to help me interpret it.

6061 T6  
Yield strength 275 mpa
Tensile strength 310 mpa
Elongation 12 %

5005 H34
Yield strength 140 mpa
Tensile strength 160 mpa
Elongation 8 %

Looks like the 6061 T6 is about twice as strong  but given how much of it 
there is, I doubt strength is an issue.

Gav  

KR> Fuel tanks

[GavinandLouise]

Hi all,
Is it necessary to micro the insides of the fuel tanks before glassing as we do 
on the exterior surfaces??
I'm just starting on my header tank.

Thanks 

Gav


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KR> Final word on fuel tank resins.

[GavinandLouise]

The final word on fuel tank resin!!!
Today I contacted my local fibreglass supplier, and asked the question about 
what I should use to seal the inside of my tanks.   
I asked him about using epoxy resin with fuel that has alcohol in it, and he 
said he'd check with the technical experts who supply him with the West System 
products that I am using.
Well I got a call just a few hours later and the answer was a resounding NO for 
use of Epoxy with Diesel fuel!!! But with so called mogas he was a little more 
positive, though the experts say it will break down with the use of alcohol in 
the fuel over a period of time, and the company definatly won't give any sort 
of guarantees. 
He gave me a strong recommendation to use Vinyl esther resin on at least the 
top layer of glass ( it'll happily stick to epoxy resin) to seal it up properly 
and forever more.
So no guesses what I have ordered from him and it'll be here in a few days.


Gavin 


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KR> Final word on fuel tank resins.

[GavinandLouise]

Na I'm not at all interested in using diesel, but they were his first words
and they surprised me a little as I thought it was relatively inert Fuel
with alcohol in it is getting more common, we all need to remember that the
trend all over the world nowdays is to use renewable resources, and this
means using some alcohol which can easily be made using crops of different
types.

Gav



- Original Message -
From: "Marty Hammersmith" <bal...@peoplepc.com>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2004 8:21 PM
Subject: Re: KR> Final word on fuel tank resins.


> Vinyl Ester is the rin used in commercial service station tanks. SOME
> epoxies will work fine with a given fuel some will not. Vinyl Ester is the
> correct resin to use for a fueltank. I would add that you should try to
> avoid using fuel with alcohol and why do yuo care if diesel is compatible
> with epoxy. Are you flying a diesel?
>
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "GavinandLouise" <gdono...@bigpond.net.au>
> To: "KR builders and pilots" <kr...@mylist.net>
> Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2004 6:01 AM
> Subject: KR> Final word on fuel tank resins.
>
>
> > The final word on fuel tank resin!!!
> > Today I contacted my local fibreglass supplier, and asked the question
> about what I should use to seal the inside of my tanks.
> > I asked him about using epoxy resin with fuel that has alcohol in it,
and
> he said he'd check with the technical experts who supply him with the West
> System products that I am using.
> > Well I got a call just a few hours later and the answer was a resounding
> NO for use of Epoxy with Diesel fuel!!! But with so called mogas he was a
> little more positive, though the experts say it will break down with the
use
> of alcohol in the fuel over a period of time, and the company definatly
> won't give any sort of guarantees.
> > He gave me a strong recommendation to use Vinyl esther resin on at least
> the top layer of glass ( it'll happily stick to epoxy resin) to seal it up
> properly and forever more.
> > So no guesses what I have ordered from him and it'll be here in a few
> days.
> >
> >
> > Gavin
> >
> >
> > ---
> > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> > Version: 6.0.736 / Virus Database: 490 - Release Date: 09/08/2004
> > ___
> > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> >
>
>
>
> ___
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html


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KR> O200 prop

[GavinandLouise]

C'mon all you Aussie builders you're a bit slow LOL! I can't believe that 
last night while thinking about what rego mark I'll use I checked the CASA 
site, and there is only one VH-KR registration mark left. So VH-KRD it will be!
So I've emailed CASA to hold it for me. 
VH-KRD was the mark used by a good friend of mine when he built his KR many 
years ago, he sold the aircraft and the new owner re-registered it in the 
ultralight category.
Not long after that the new owner crashed at low altitude in a tight turn and 
from information of witnesses it has been speculated that he stalled at high 
speed, Unfortunately it was a fatal accident. 
My friend who built this KR is also helping me with information on my project, 
he also makes propellers.
I've just overhauled an O200 Continental for it, and am wondering what the 
final prop selection any of you using them have come up with is?? I've checked 
the archives but the information on there is mostly speculation of what people 
are going to use.

Thanks 
Gav

KR2S 
14" stretch 
2" stretch in front of foreword spar
40" wide at shoulders 
Tri gear
Balanced tail feathers 
Dual controls
Cobra arrow canopy
New airfoil design

Pending VH-KRD

KR> O200 prop

[GavinandLouise]

Thanks Larry, we were thinking about 60" D x 66" P so I guess we'll go with
that for now.

Gav


>
> I'm running an Ed Sterba 60D X 64P on my 0-200.  I think it's a bit
> more tired than other 0-200's in KR's as it has 1850 hours since
> factory overhaul.  I started with a 68 pitch but couldn't get the RPM
> I wanted.  I had it repitched to a 64.  I get 2650 rpm full throttle
> at cruise and generally cruise at that power setting.  When I get
> wheel covers install I'll probably get another 10 mph and some
> additional rpm.  My 0-200 is "stock" the way it came from the
> C-150.  Many of the KR's running 0-200's have them putting out
> 120+ hp and thus need more prop.  They have upped the compresson
> and advanced the timing and "require" 100LL.  I'm running
> 87 oct auto fuel.  I figured "stock" and simple was more reliable.
> I also like the price differance between the two fuels.
>
> Start on the high end with the pitch.  You can repitch it flatter but
> you can't add pitch later.
>
> Larry Flesner
>
>
>
> ___
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html


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KR> Tapering Outboard Spars

[GavinandLouise]

I can't understand what all the fuss is about !! It's just a case of using
basic hand tools. Go back to basics and mark out all of your spar dimensions
and get a good quality hand plane. You'll be surprised how quickly the
excess material can be planed away, and accurately too.
That's how all of mine were done and they are perfect.


Gavin
Australia


P.S I'm a metal worke not a wood worker.




- Original Message -
From: 
To: 
Sent: Friday, July 02, 2004 9:43 PM
Subject: KR> Tapering Outboard Spars


> Would-be-builders, don't despair, it is not necessary to spend a lot of
> money on saw blades or table saw.  When I built my KR2 airframe in about
> 1974 I did not have a table saw.  I built what amounted to a small box
> out of particle board, screwed a used Skil circular saw to the inside of
> what would become the top and plunged the blade through.  The blade was a
> 7 1/4" Sears hollow ground cabinet blade (not a carbide blade).  This
> blade is very cheap, cuts a surface as smooth as a planer and you can rip
> all of the spruce for a KR2 without sharpening (A few years later I used
> the same blade in a table saw, without sharpening, to cut all of the rib
> caps and fuselage material for a Pietenpol.)  The fence was a straight
> board clamped to the top.  My taper sled was a straight board with a
> block attached to each end.  A nail was driven through the block and into
> the end grain of the spar material.  The result was a good glue surface
> on a very accurately cut spar cap.  You can spend a lot of time and money
> on tooling that you only need once--better to spend both on the actual
> construction of the airplane.
> Dick Hartwig
> Waunakee, WI
> rhartwi...@juno.com
>
> ___
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html


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KR> Canopy Height

[GavinandLouise]

Hi all,
Just a quick question about the height of the canopies being used.
I have access to a surplus canopy from a locally produced aircraft, and it 
measures 15 1/2 inches from the bottom to the top when sitting flat on a table, 
and 43 inches wide (which will fit my widened KR2S) sitting flat. What do most 
canopies measure ?? namely the dragonfly canopy!!  

Thanks 

Gavin 
Australia




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KR> Canopy Height

[GavinandLouise]

Mark all I  get is pop up spam when I try too open the links to the pdf
files on the page that you sent to me, Is there a problem with this page???


Gav


- Original Message -
From: "Mark Langford" 
To: "KRnet" 
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2004 2:28 AM
Subject: Re: KR> Canopy Height


> I should have mentioned that for more info on the Dragonfly canopy, see
> http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/skipper/388/dflycanopysurvey/ .
>
> Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL
> N56ML at hiwaay.net
> see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford
>
>
>
> ___
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>


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KR> O200 Prop

[GavinandLouise]

Larry could you contact me off the list please I'm interested in what prop you 
are using on your O200?


Gavin


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KR> O200

[GavinandLouise]

Isn't it amazing that after all this time planning on putting a Subaru EJ22 in 
my KR2S I've just found a Continental O200 to use.
Should be about 50 or 60 pounds lighter too and direct drive !! 
Now I've just got to rebuild it.

Gavin 


Look out LKarry I'm coming to get you 


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KR> Off subject - air compressor

[GavinandLouise]

If you really want dry air the best and cheapest way to do it is to install
a heat exchanger between the tank and the water drier in the compressed air
line.
I used an old car air-conditioning condenser with about 3/8" lines in and
out of it, you'll be surprised how much better the drier works using cool
air rather than warm air!

Gavin

Australia



- Original Message -
From: "Ryan" 
To: ; "KRnet" 
Sent: Saturday, June 26, 2004 10:06 AM
Subject: Re: KR> Off subject - air compressor


> When painting, I "crack" the drain valve so that water is being drained
> while the compressor is running.
>
> Ryan
> - Original Message -
> From: "Jack Cooper" 
> To: "Corvair engines for homebuilt aircraft" ;
"KR
> builders and pilots" 
> Sent: Friday, June 25, 2004 11:13 AM
> Subject: KR> Off subject - air compressor
>
>
> > My air compressor is about 20 years old and seems to work fine except
I'm
> getting excessive amounts of moisture through the tools. Is there a good
> system for removing the moisture from the air? Is my compressor just too
> old? would a compressor overhall help the problem? I drain the tank and
> separator often, but not every day.
> >
> >
> > Jack Cooper
> > kr2coo...@earthlink.net
>
>
> ___
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html


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Fw: KR> Off subject - air compressor

[GavinandLouise]

This is the second time I've sent this as well!!1


> If you really want dry air the best and cheapest way to do it is to
install
> a heat exchanger between the tank and the water drier in the compressed
air
> line.
> I used an old car air-conditioning condenser with about 3/8" lines in and
> out of it, you'll be surprised how much better the drier works using cool
> air rather than warm air!
>
> Gavin
>
> Australia
>
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Ryan" 
> To: ; "KRnet" 
> Sent: Saturday, June 26, 2004 10:06 AM
> Subject: Re: KR> Off subject - air compressor
>
>
> > When painting, I "crack" the drain valve so that water is being drained
> > while the compressor is running.
> >
> > Ryan
> > - Original Message -
> > From: "Jack Cooper" 
> > To: "Corvair engines for homebuilt aircraft" ;
> "KR
> > builders and pilots" 
> > Sent: Friday, June 25, 2004 11:13 AM
> > Subject: KR> Off subject - air compressor
> >
> >
> > > My air compressor is about 20 years old and seems to work fine except
> I'm
> > getting excessive amounts of moisture through the tools. Is there a good
> > system for removing the moisture from the air? Is my compressor just too
> > old? would a compressor overhall help the problem? I drain the tank and
> > separator often, but not every day.
> > >
> > >
> > > Jack Cooper
> > > kr2coo...@earthlink.net
> >
> >
> > ___
> > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>
>
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> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
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>


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KR> (no subject)

[GavinandLouise]

Test only 

Gav


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