KR> oops & project available

[Kerwyn Stoll]

Sorry about that last "transmission", group. ?I didn't realize that Paul had 
replied to my private e-mail on the KRNET when I replied.

Since I'm emailing the group, I will mention that I still have my KR2 project 
(not "S" or stetched) project available if anyone is interested in such a 
project. ?Wings are built, controls in, on aluminum gear (taildragger). ?If 
interested, it is in Mattoon, IL. ?1 K OBO. ?E-mail me privately at kerdogs at 
yahoo.com.?

Best Regards,

Kerwyn

KR> move the displays to the sunlight

[Kerwyn Stoll]

Hi Paul,

I have my engine off of my plane right now, updating the engine with new 
through bolts, and a hydraulic lifter to mechanical lifter kit. ?I am guessing 
that I won't have it back together for several months yet. I have had parts 
ordered from Austrailia, but still waiting for them to make the parts and ship 
them to me. ?I hope it doesn't take too much longer!

Once it is together and flying again, I'd be more than happy to take him up.

Keep up the good work!

Kerwyn
On Monday, April 7, 2014 8:02 AM, Paul Visk  wrote:

Thanks Kerwyn. I'm still trying to figure out a way to get my son out to you to 
take him flying.?


Paul Visk
Belleville, Il
618-406-4705

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S?4

 Original message From: Dan Heath  Date:04/07/2014? 4:35 AM? (GMT-06:00) To: 
'KRnet'  Subject: KR> move the displays to 
the sunlight 
Sid,



You saw my panel at the KR Gathering 2013.? Trust me, it really does that.
I have had a lot of Dynon products, and they all do that.? But so do many of
the others, like Grand Rapids, Garmin.



See N64KR at?  http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on
the pics 



Peoples Choice at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best KR at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best Interior at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best Paint at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 

Best Firwwall Forward at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN 



Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC







-Original Message-



Made a nuisance of myself at the Dynon booth.? Dynon had some great looking
stuff, but the sales rep politely declined my request to move the displays
to the sunlight coming in the door to see if it really does that. 

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KR> Building the Wing Off the Plane?

[Kerwyn Stoll]

Hi Mike,

I built my wings in my basement, also in a jig. ?I also have an article in one 
of the KR Newsletters about it. ?I'll try to dig that out this weekend and send 
it to you. ?I do have less authority than some as I never finished my project. 
?It is in a hangar next to a SkyRanger that I built in '07. ?Unfortunately, the 
SkyRanger is a big distraction for me from finishing my plane. ?(I get all of 
my KR motivation when I'm along the interstate and watch a semi truck pass 
beneath me.) ?I tried selling my project last fall on Barnstormers, but had 
very few people interested in it because it was a KR2, not a KR2S. ?I may still 
finish it one day, just to get back at those semis on the interstate!

On the wing thing... I will argue with anyone that building the wing separately 
is by far the best way to build the wing. ?One difference in my technique from 
the gentleman from CT is that I didn't need to cut the longerons. ?What I did 
was, I built the outer wing panels, but left the center spars separate. ?My jig 
clamped the center spars in place, as if they were in a fuselage. ?After the 
wings were built (not the stub wings), I removed the wings, inserted the center 
spars into the fuselage, re-installed the wings and controls, glued the spars 
to the fuselage & then built the stub wings on the fuselage. ?About the only 
non-plans part of the wing is that I had to glue the plywood ribs to the outer 
panels (at the joint), rather than on the outboard part of the stub wings.

Advantages of using the jig include:
1) You can build in much less space. ?For me, the warm, well lit basement was 
much better than my cold, dim, garage.
2) No fuselage in the way when leveling the wings, ?setting washout and 
incidence.
3) You can have the wings in 4 different orientations. ?level, upside down, 
climbing 90% to ground, or descending 90% to ground. ?Glassing the leading 
edges was a piece of cake as the wings were pointing upwards. ?Installing the 
aileron spars was also easy as the wing was pointing down.
4) I was able to install the sling seat and controls in my basement, before 
disassembling everything and installing the center spars into the fuselage.
5) I was able to carry the completed wings through a 36 inch door when I got 
done!

I'd be happy to give you more information if you want it. ?Unfortunately, I 
just cut those jigs up this winter. I needed the steel for another project, and 
figured no one would want to use them as they were getting pretty rusty.

Kerwyn

P.S. ?If you happen to have the newsletters on CD, you can search my name for 
that article. ?I'm the only Kerwyn... and I've never met another.



On Friday, January 31, 2014 1:21 AM, Mike T  wrote:

I'm still trying to decide whether to build a KR-2 or a Thatcher CX4, a
recent single-seat aluminum LSA design.? These two designs aren't as far
apart as they seem, because a KR-2 can also be LSA compliant.? It already
makes the LSA stall speed if you keep it light, and I could use a smaller
VW engine (or just adjust the throttle so the carb doesn't open all the
way) to get it down to the LSA top speed someday.? I think the LSA law
would le me fly the plane fast for now, then slow it down to make it LSA
compliant if I ever get sick of getting medicals. By contrast, he CX4's top
speed is 135 mph and the VNE is 155, so it's not even as fast as the
fastest LSAs.

But whatever plane I build, I want to build it in the living room of my
house. As I mentioned here before, I have woodworking and metalworking
machines in the basement, but that doesn't leave room for the plane down
there.? Also I have a garage, but it has no heat and limited electricity,
and sometimes it's wet.? So for much of the year I'd be unable to work
there, or I'd have to come home from work and fire up a heater for hours to
warm the garage.?  But with the plane in the living room, it would be warm,
dry, and staring me in the face whenever I came in the door, so I'd have an
incentive to keep working on it every day.

But there's a problem doing this with a KR: The center spar is so long I'd
never be able to get it out again after the spar was installed, so I'd have
to move it to the garage after the boat stage.? The spar is so long is to
allow for flaps and wing tanks, which I don't want, but trying to change
the design of the spar and wings would be way too complicated.

So I was all set to give up on the KR2 (and I even bought plans for the
CX4) when I saw this article in the KR Newsletter of October, 1984 (#112,
p. 3).? This is a guy who built his wings entirely off the plane. He was
doing it to make a better wing (and I think he's right).? But doing this
would also solve my problem of getting the plane out the door when it's
done.? And it would make it easier to build the wings exactly alike by
clamping the center spar to the worktable and building both wings at once.
(And of course you could flip the spar upside down easily, so you could
foam, glass, and finish both sides 

KR> First of many oops.

[Kerwyn Stoll]

Your story reminds me of one of my own.

When I built my first center spar, I failed to 
keep the two caps parallel to each other.? When I removed the clamps, I 
found that the spar had a slight twist to it.

I had to order new 
wood for the verticals, and then I flipped the caps over so that I would
 have new surfaces to glue the new verticals to.? If you look at my 
center spars, they now have slivers of wood missing on the top and 
bottom surfaces where the old verticals took the wood away when I had to break 
the original spar apart.

Every event becomes a learning opportunity.? For me, I clamped the caps to the 
table after that to keep the caps parallel.

Best Regards,
Kerwyn





On Tuesday, October 29, 2013 7:17 AM, Kerwyn Stoll  wrote:

The spar under flying load has the bottom cap in tension, and the top cap in 
compression.? The verticals keep those two caps spaced apart from each other.? 
The shear web keeps the two caps from moving in opposite directions (along the 
spar length).? Probably, when it hit the floor, one of the caps hit first, and 
was stopped by the floor, while the other continued to move.? So, if one 
vertical broke loose, the rest should have broken too!

Kerwyn





On Tuesday, October 29, 2013 3:50 AM, Pat and Robin Russo  wrote:

Yes, the plywood is doing most of the work but it can not do the work as 
well if the joints are not clean and tightly done. End grain gluing has very 
little strength. The glue however does give a certain tightness to the joint 
and also provides a moisture protective coating. The tightness of your 
joints and good glue spread will minimize the possibility of the plywood 
flexing or twisting under loads.

-Original Message- 
From: PPaulVsk at aol.com
Sent: Monday, October 28, 2013 9:17 PM
To: krnet at list.krnet.org
Subject: KR> First of many oops.

This morning I was working on my aft inner spar and I dropped it. I don't
have the web skin on it yet. After inspecting it I notice half of my
vertical members had broken glue joints. All the brakes had wood stuck? to 
the
epoxy so I new they were good joints. But way did so? many brake?? Does the
3/32 plywood add most of the strength?? I know about load transfer. But 
really.

Paul Visk
Belleville Il
618-406-4705

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KR> First of many oops.

[Kerwyn Stoll]

The spar under flying load has the bottom cap in tension, and the top cap in 
compression.? The verticals keep those two caps spaced apart from each other.? 
The shear web keeps the two caps from moving in opposite directions (along the 
spar length).? Probably, when it hit the floor, one of the caps hit first, and 
was stopped by the floor, while the other continued to move.? So, if one 
vertical broke loose, the rest should have broken too!

Kerwyn





On Tuesday, October 29, 2013 3:50 AM, Pat and Robin Russo  wrote:

Yes, the plywood is doing most of the work but it can not do the work as 
well if the joints are not clean and tightly done. End grain gluing has very 
little strength. The glue however does give a certain tightness to the joint 
and also provides a moisture protective coating. The tightness of your 
joints and good glue spread will minimize the possibility of the plywood 
flexing or twisting under loads.

-Original Message- 
From: PPaulVsk at aol.com
Sent: Monday, October 28, 2013 9:17 PM
To: krnet at list.krnet.org
Subject: KR> First of many oops.

This morning I was working on my aft inner spar and I dropped it. I don't
have the web skin on it yet. After inspecting it I notice half of my
vertical members had broken glue joints. All the brakes had wood stuck? to 
the
epoxy so I new they were good joints. But way did so? many brake?? Does the
3/32 plywood add most of the strength?? I know about load transfer. But 
really.

Paul Visk
Belleville Il
618-406-4705

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KR> Project for sale

[Kerwyn Stoll]

Greetings,

If anyone is interested in a KR2 (not stretched), my project is for sale.? You 
can see my add at:

http://www.barnstormers.com/listing.php?id=829149

I bought a project in 81, and burned it in 92 due to many issues induced by the 
previous owner.? Started over in 92, and have come to realize it is simply too 
small for my wife and I.? (I'm 6'1 & 240 lbs... and I'll leave my wife to your 
imagination).?? I am asking $1500, but have much more in it, of course.

If you are interested, please e-mail me at kerdogs at yahoo.com.? (Don't burden 
the archives by replying to the KRNET).? If no one buys it... who knows, it may 
end up at a gathering in a couple of years with me in it.

Thanks,
Kerwyn

KR> Anyone have a printable template for wing-walk ribs?

[Kerwyn Stoll]

Hi Phil,
 
I built my wing walks with multiple ribs made from left over 3/32 plywood.  The 
ribs are spaced 5/8" apart with foam between them.  The ribs were about 1 inch 
tall from what I remember.   Where the ribs meet the spars, I glued 5/8 x 5/8 
spruce blocks positioned vertically and sandwiched between the ribs.  I used 
enough ribs to make about an 10 inch wide wing walk. 
 
I quit building over 10 years ago, but I've been climbing into the cockpit for 
15 year using the wing walk to make occaisional airplane noises and it is solid 
as a rock.  Don't tell anyone, but I weigh 240 lbs.   I believe this method is 
very good especially due to it's light weight.
 
Not to say this is the best method, but I am confident that it works well and 
is reasonably light.  Just to give you another option to consider!
 
Best Regards,
KerwynMattoon, IL

KR> Fuel system gaskets

[Kerwyn Stoll]

... How can I determine what the gasket is made of...

Sid,You could try placing a questionable gasket material into a jar of fuel and 
see what it does.  I did this with Aeropoxy 10 years ago.  I still have 2 jars 
in my hangar that are good show & tell items.  One with aeropoxy and 100LL - 
epoxy is in perfect condition.  The other is Aeropoxy with mogas - gas is 
bright yellow and the epoxy chunk is now in mushy-looking flakes.  The second 
sample deteriorated in about a week!
Not totally scientific, but it may give you a pretty good idea of 
compatibility.Kerwyn