KR> Control rods
I have been using flexible bicycle cable, replacing the braided wire with .050 wire for various controls such as trim, cabin/ carb heat and choke systems. For more critical systems such as throttle assemblies look at what is offered from Wicks or Aircraft spruce. Pat http://www.flickr.com/photos/100112644 at N03/ -Original Message- From: Robert Boyd Sent: Monday, September 30, 2013 9:41 AM To: krnet at list.krnet.org Subject: KR> Control rods Where is everyone buying their control push/pull rods or tubes and ends? I seem to be unable to find anything that looks right. Bob ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options
KR> Control rods
Got all mine from either Aircraft Spruce or Wicks. Dan Heath > On Sep 30, 2013, at 9:41 AM, Robert Boyd wrote: > > Where is everyone buying their control push/pull rods or tubes and ends? I > seem to be unable to find anything that looks right. > Bob > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change > options
KR> Control rods
Where is everyone buying their control push/pull rods or tubes and ends? I seem to be unable to find anything that looks right. Bob
KR> control rods
I need to make up some control rods and need some advice. I want to run a rod from the stick to the airleron bellcrank, then another rod back to the airlerons, so I thought of 1/2 inch or so aluminium tube, with a solid aluminium insert at each end which can be drilled and tapped, riveted or bolted in place, riveting would be better I think, then use a male threaded rod end bearing in each end with a left hand thread and a right hand thread respectively. I do not know a great deal about rod end bearings, and a part number of something to do the job would be very helpful. My biggest worry is what size of bearing would be needed to do the job, theres thousands of them in the catalog, but just don't know what an appropriate size would be as I have absolutely no experience with these types of bearings. Would 1/2 or 3/4 inch inch tube do the job, and what wall thickness would be strong enough? Chris Johnston North Richmond NSW Australia.
KR> control rods
Chris, I did mine that way with 1/2" x .035 thickness 4130 tube going from the stick out to a crank in the wing gap then another back to the aileron attach bracket. There are 1/2" steel (wouldn't use aluminium for these) rod ends with 1/4" threads on them (AN490HT-8P) that are pushed into the ends of the tube and gas welded in place. The rod end bearings (F34-14) then screw onto the threads. I used Heim or Fafnel bearings with AN3 bolts to to suit thru the eyes. 5/8" tube takes the -10P ends and F35-14 bearings. I used this for the elevator rod and supported it mid length. These bits are all in the ASS catalog but you could probably get them locally via Aviaquip and save on the killer freight from the USA. Just explain what you want and let them check it all fits together before dispatch. Don't forget to allow for the length of the rod ends before you cut your tube. John Martindale 29 Jane Circuit TOORMINA NSW 2452 AUSTRALIA phone: 61 2 66584767 (H) 61 2 66869094 (W) mobile: 0417 584767 email:johnja...@optusnet.com.au web: www.members.optusnet.com.au/johnjanet/Martindale.htm - Original Message - From: "Chris Johnston" <chr...@ozdocs.net.au> To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net> Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2006 10:28 AM Subject: KR> control rods >I need to make up some control rods and need some advice.
KR> control rods
Chris Johnston wrote: >>riveting would be better I think, then use a male threaded rod end bearing in each end with a left hand thread and a right hand thread respectively.<< I would not count on a rivet (or even 4 rivets) to do that job. I welded mine, and have no problem sleeping at night. Maybe somebody makes aluminum rod ends, but Wicks only sells steel. My pushrods are 4130, welded to the rod end fittings. I'll bet if you walked into a welding shop and told them you'd like those welded, you'd be done in ten minutes with a charge of "we'll catch up next time". It's hard to imagine sometimes how you'd need much strength in tension or compression for these pushrods, until you find yourself pointed straight at the ground full throttle and have to pull out of a 180 mph dive. A rivet just wouldn't hack it, and even if it would, it would loosen over time and introduce slop, which is not something you'd want in your control system either. Weld it... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford email to N56ML "at" hiwaay.net --
KR> control rods
Hi Chris, Also checkout Aviall for aviation supplies in Australia, global web page http://www.aviall.com SYDNEY Aviall Australia Pty. Ltd. 453 Airport Avenue Bankstown Airport Bankstown, New South Wales 2200, Australia Phone 61-2-9791-0511 Fax 61-2-9791-0102 Manager: Kevin Garvey E-mail syd...@aviall.com -Original Message- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf Of Martindale Family Sent: Thursday, 5 October 2006 11:20 AM To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR> control rods Chris, I did mine that way with 1/2" x .035 thickness 4130 tube going from the stick out to a crank in the wing gap then another back to the aileron attach bracket. There are 1/2" steel (wouldn't use aluminium for these) rod ends with 1/4" threads on them (AN490HT-8P) that are pushed into the ends of the tube and gas welded in place. The rod end bearings (F34-14) then screw onto the threads. I used Heim or Fafnel bearings with AN3 bolts to to suit thru the eyes. 5/8" tube takes the -10P ends and F35-14 bearings. I used this for the elevator rod and supported it mid length. These bits are all in the ASS catalog but you could probably get them locally via Aviaquip and save on the killer freight from the USA. Just explain what you want and let them check it all fits together before dispatch. Don't forget to allow for the length of the rod ends before you cut your tube. John Martindale 29 Jane Circuit TOORMINA NSW 2452 AUSTRALIA phone: 61 2 66584767 (H) 61 2 66869094 (W) mobile: 0417 584767 email:johnja...@optusnet.com.au web: www.members.optusnet.com.au/johnjanet/Martindale.htm - Original Message - From: "Chris Johnston" <chr...@ozdocs.net.au> To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net> Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2006 10:28 AM Subject: KR> control rods >I need to make up some control rods and need some advice. ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
KR> control rods
I am a believer in welded steel rod ends also. I take one further step, that is on the side of the tubing where you would normally drill holes to bolt through the tubing and rod end if you were bolting instead of welding, I drill a small hole, like 1/8 or 3/16 and do what I call a pin weld. That is just weld down into the rod end filling side wall back out to the tube side wall even with the surface. These pin welds are in addition to welding the circumference of the rod end where it meets onto the end of the tubing. These are just safety welds to move some of the load away from the very end of the tube. Maybe not necessary, but they make me feel better. : ) Larry H. Chris Johnston wrote: >>riveting would be better I think, then use a male threaded rod end bearing in each end with a left hand thread and a right hand thread respectively.<< Mark L. wrote: I would not count on a rivet (or even 4 rivets) to do that job. I welded mine, and have no problem sleeping at night. Maybe somebody makes aluminum rod ends, but Wicks only sells steel. My pushrods are 4130, welded to the rod end fittings. I'll bet if you walked into a welding shop and told them you'd like those welded, you'd be done in ten minutes with a charge of "we'll catch up next time". It's hard to imagine sometimes how you'd need much strength in tension or compression for these pushrods, until you find yourself pointed straight at the ground full throttle and have to pull out of a 180 mph dive. A rivet just wouldn't hack it, and even if it would, it would loosen over time and introduce slop, which is not something you'd want in your control system either. Weld it...
KR> control rods
Chris, do a search under my name with control rods and you will find a complete list of parts, with part numbers, of the push rod, inserts and rod end bearings. BTW, on the RV series of airplanes, all pushrod to insert fittings are riveted. Mark "Da Stick" Langford's (he's going to kill me on that one:-) weld job also works fine. Dana Overall 1999 & 2000 National KR Gathering host Richmond, KY i39 RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic" O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4 http://rvflying.tripod.com/id30.html do not archive _ Try the new Live Search today! http://imagine-windowslive.com/minisites/searchlaunch/?locale=en-us=WLMTAG
KR> control rods
Dana wrote: > BTW, on the RV series of airplanes, all pushrod to insert fittings are > riveted. A lot of planes are riveted. I almost bothered to figured the strength of the joint, and I'm sure it's fine, but that's what VW thought when it replaced bolts in the ring gears of their five speed transmissions to save a few bucks, and then watched their trannys come unglued one at a time when the rivets failed. My 16V Scirroco was one of them, and I had to weld up the trans case after one of those rivets punched a hole in it. That involved a total teardown of the transmission, so it made an impression on me. The "cure" was bolts and nuts. Call it personal preference if you will, but mine are welded 4130. By the same token, RR's aileron pushrod is something like quarter inch aluminum rod threaded on both ends for heim joints, but then it's only about 4" long Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford email to N56ML "at" hiwaay.net
KR> control rods
Hi Chris, If you send me your e-maill address I'll send you pics of how I did mine. Regards, Hennie hennie.vanroo...@kumbaresources.com "I need to make up some control rods and need some advice." - This e-mail is confidential and is for the addressee only. Please refer to http://www.kumbaresources.com/email-disclaimer for important disclaimers. -
