[lace] La Encajera
I did get an answer from La Encajera . Here it is Dear MRs Gidorm: We have just received your kindly electronic mail, well in the envelope was one stamp with the 2,55 Euros, but we pay another tax to the Post that it is not in the envelope. If you wish, could you go to web of post of Israel or Spain ( but it is in Spanish) and select to Israel sending , and the cost approximately is 9 Euros without certificated. We extracted the average of the rest the world, because the sending more or less cost the same . please, if you have any question more do not hesitate to contact us Sincerely SANCHEZ APARISI SL Eva Monerris So , I guess they will survive (or not) without me. Miriam Arad, Israel - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Honiton Lace Pillow
Hi Viv, I have tried making Honiton on both a traditional straw pillow and a more modern foam one and for me the straw wins hands down every time, if you work in the traditional way with the pillow on your lap. You will probably need a low footstool to raise your knees a little, but then the straw pillow sits very firmly and steadliy, the pins stay put and it is easy to turn the pillow when you need to, ie) to take sewings, when a sprig curls etc. A light foam pillow is too easily tipped and the bobbins seem to jump about more as the surface does not hold them in place. If you work on a table then things might be different. A traditional straw pillow is quite deep and rounded on the bottom, so it will not sit very still on a table. It is much more comfortable to work with it on your knees. I got rid of my foam pillow some years ago now and if I want to make Honiton again it's the straw I will use. Jean in Cleveland U.K. On 13 Oct 2004, at 23:02, Viv Dewar wrote: Hi Everyone I live in the UK and want to acquire a Honiton pillow. I'm a Honiton beginner, but since earlier this year I've been dabbling with a straw domed pillow & now want to go for the "real McCoy" Please could you advise on your experiences of using/buying the same. Is straw the best? None of the suppliers I've used regularly to buy from through mail order seem to stock them so I'd like to have some recommendations. Please use your discretion as to whether a reply would be of interest to the list as a whole and should be posted there, or whether it relates to the commercial transaction only & should therefore come to me off-list I am coming to Somerset (Yeovil area) on 23 October and could detour to collect. If any UK suppliers want to e-mail with details of prices etc - please do, but to me not the list! Many thanks viv - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Finished knitted lace
Hi Jazmin, Your knitted clothes are wonderful. I have a great admiration for lace knitters. Although I have had a few goes I just cannot see what I am doing and if I make a mistake I cannot recognise what has gone wrong or where. Best Wishes Jean in Cleveland U.K. On 13 Oct 2004, at 16:01, Jazmin wrote: I've finished up two knitted lace pieces. (Yes, I call it lace, in spite of purists. ) http://www.uoguelph.ca/~hbogart/craft/knit/roe.html and http://www.uoguelph.ca/~hbogart/craft/knit/spiral.JPG Sorry about the glare in the second photo, I should have put a cloth behind it. The Rose of England took me nine months of on and off work, the spiral one took me just under two weeks. Heather -- in cool and autumn-like SW Ontario, Canada - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] RE: Britt's email
Gidday Liz, Leeanne and all, <
Fw: [lace] "Lace" contributors bobbins
Jenny Hester (who does the lettering and sparkles on the bobbins) saw my posting to the lace list about "Lace" Magazine bobbins, and confirms that her son Matthew made them and posted them to the Guild in mid-July, but they only got paid recently. She says that the Hollies have not been able to find a replacement for Margaret as far as she knows. So that is why there are delays. Rest assured everyone - the bobbins have been painted, and I expect they'll get mailed as soon as the Hollies can. Sue - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Eniko Farkas
Jeri, I found your posting regarding Eniko Farkas to be fascinating! While having read through the web site that you noted, I was disappointed to not have been able to enlarge the photos of her embroidery. Did I perhaps miss anything? Thanks, Sylvie ___ Do you Yahoo!? Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today! http://vote.yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Finished knitted lace
- Original Message - From: "Steph Peters" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Of course it's lace, and beautiful too. I know how to knit from an ordinary pattern, but I find those diagrams in the lace knitting books quite incomprehensible. I'm wondering what you do if you misread the pattern or make a mistake, I imagine you must have to undo the error and fix it to keep the pattern correct. What thread is it knitted from and how much does such a large piece take? What size are the needles? Ahh, but not all lace knitting books are charted.. or I'm assuming it's the charts that make most knitters blanch. In fact the Rose of England is from Kinsel's book of Modern Lace knitting and has both written out (like a jumper pattern) instructions and charts. Both are done with cotton thread, the Rose in Clea, which is a soft non-mercinized cotton that claims to be size 10, but is more a size 15. (Crochet cotton sizes.). It used just under 1000 m of cotton. The spiral was done in a crisp vintage cotton, size 30 Gem brand. It got a band of yellow when I ran out of cream. As I was using up leftovers, I've no idea how much it took, although the cream ball of cotton (which I dont think was full) claimed to be 350 yards when full. Old enough not to have metric on it. Sudden colour changes are a hazard of working from stash sometimes! ;) I used 2 mm needles (Size 0 to US folks) for both of them. I wanted a little more body to the softer thread so used larger needles than I might normally for that size cotton. Yes, mistakes involve picking back (tinking in the knitting world.. tink is knit backwards. ;), so that you keep the symmetry of the pattern. Like anything, I suppose, there's a point where you consider the pattern, consider the error and decide if you can live with it. If I've used a left slanting increase and the pattern called for a right slanting decrease, I often dont mind too much. A missed yarn over increase so you dont have enough stitches.. that I mind! ;) Some mistakes can be fixed on the fly, and some involve picking out most of a row or two.. or for the brave, laddering down one or two stitches and reknitting just those couple of stitches. Blocking forgives all sorts of tension problems with doing that. :) The hardest part of lace knitting in the round is the beginning where you have not many stitches on multiple needles (often 8 stitches to 4 needles).. after you get a couple rounds in, it's no harder than knitting mittens, or perhaps gloves. I find bobbin lace MUCH harder to do! Thanks for asking and I hope I haven't bored you all to tears. Heather -- who's nearly halfway into the next doily. Stress makes my production speed fly apparently! ;) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Thread query - Alphabet Inspirations
In a recent posting to the list Viv Dewer wrote very kindly about my recent book, 'Alphabet Inspirations...' but mentioned a query that may be of interest to others, hence the reason why I'm answering the query directly to the list, rather than to her personally - I hope she forgives me! Viv wrote; The book suggests Pipers silks - 90/2 & 80/3 etc as the correct threads for the prickings as printed. In Sandi's earlier book - Special Effects in Bobbin Lace - the pricking guides say that if you use the Piper's threads you should use the prickings at 100% (ie the same as the Inspirations). This is also the guide for Madeira tanne 50 & Gutermann silk thread. Brenda's book says that the Pipers silks recommended have 27-30 threads/cm but that Madeira 50 has 39. Madeira 30 has 29 threads/cm in Brenda's book but Sandi's "Special Effects" suggest a pricking enlargement to 105% if tanne 30 is used. My question is Are the silk threads "squashier" when used in bobbin lace so that the extra threads can squeeze themselves into the space or have I totally misunderstood Brenda's work! I thought that where were 99 wraps per cm in Yarn "A" and the pricking said use yarn "B", if yarn B was within a reasonable number of "wraps" of A it would work and that otherwise you had an adjustment fact or to apply based on 99 X A/B (or 99 X A2/B2 ? - please answer this one too, someone, again!). Viv So..I think the best way I can answer this is to say that when I suggest threads for one of my patterns in a book, I give the exact thread name and type that I have used for the pattern illustrated, so that anyone wishing to make the lace in exactly the same manner to achieve the same effects can do so. However, if other substitutions are made the effects will not be the same..they may even be better! My reasons for choosing the particular threads are many and varied, but based on experience, although when writing a book 'availability' comes pretty high on the list of requirements. I prefer to use silk for its appearance, colour range and strength but above all because it does compress into smaller spaces and also expands to fill gaps where otherwise I would need to increase or decrease the number of pairs in work. Therefore, I choose the threads which will function best within the design as a whole and will cope with all the techniques necessary to work it. In fact, it is because I use silk that some of the techniques were developed. It must be remembered that when the properties of a thread are to be tested, a 'control' has to be used to produce a standard result for all the threads. The results depend upon the testing methods selected. Since I expect my threads to be able to jump through hoops while singing and dancing at the same time, and then to come out smilingit would be unreasonable to expect any thread guide to come up with definitive alternatives. Every type of fibre has its own specific properties, further complicated by the way in which it has been spun. I would suggest using a guide to narrow down the field if it is essential that an alternative has to be found, but then the choice is going to come down to personal preference, coupled with trial and error! There should be no availability problems with the suggested threads for 'Alphabet Inspirations..' but unfortunately Gutermann no longer produce some of the suggested thread colours for 'Special Effects in Bobbin Lace...' However, all is not lost! I have worked out alternative thread suggestions in Piper's Silks, should anyone require them. Remember, nothing is written in tablets of stone! Sandi. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Finished knitted lace
This has been just fine. I have wnated to try some lace knitting for ages.more than just edgings.I am off to find Kinsels book. Thank you for the gentle shove. BarbE - Original Message - From: Jazmin To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Com Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2004 8:03 AM Subject: Re: [lace] Finished knitted lace > Ahh, but not all lace knitting books are charted.. or I'm assuming it's the charts that make most knitters blanch. In fact the Rose of England is from Kinsel's book of Modern Lace knitting and has both written out (like a jumper pattern) instructions and charts. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Finished knitted lace
This same piece (english rose) is further developed into a beautiful shawl in the book 'A Gathering of Lace' by Meg Swansen, (although you need the lace knitting book for the centre). Another veryu good lace book is 'Heirloom Knitting' by Sharon Miller. I knit Shetland lace as well as making Bedfordshire, so have collected several interesting books. Edith North Nottinghamshire [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Hilleroed
I have allso, like Laurin, uploade pictures from the general meeting of the danish lace guild, there is some more pictures to come, I havn't had time to upload them all, but This weekend there is a exhibition on Soenderborg Castle, "domistic industri" 40 working stands, I will not write it all down, but tell you when the pictures is uploaded, so you can see for your self And thankyou for the best wishes to my new title Dorte The lates pictures is in the map called generalforsamling no. 3 as far as I remember http://www.f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/dorte_zielke/my_photos - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Thread query - Alphabet Inspirations
On 14 Oct 2004, at 13:59, Sandi Woods wrote: The book suggests Pipers silks - 90/2 & 80/3 etc as the correct threads for the prickings as printed. In Sandi's earlier book - Special Effects in Bobbin Lace - the pricking guides say that if you use the Piper's threads you should use the prickings at 100% (ie the same as the Inspirations). This is also the guide for Madeira tanne 50 & Gutermann silk thread. I've never seen 90/2 Pipers' silk, and their website doesn't list it either. Brenda's book says that the Pipers silks recommended have 27-30 threads/cm but that Madeira 50 has 39. Madeira 30 has 29 threads/cm in Brenda's book but Sandi's "Special Effects" suggest a pricking enlargement to 105% if tanne 30 is used. Yes, my measurements of the Piper silks were: spun silk 80/3 = 27 wraps/cm twisted gloss 80/3 = 28 wraps/cm gimp 90/2 = 30 wraps/cm gimp 90/3 = 27 wraps/cm so all of a fairly similar thickness. Madeira Tanne 30 = 29 wraps/cm so again a similar measurement. Madeira Tanne 50, which I measured as 39 wraps/cm is quite a bit finer. My question is Are the silk threads "squashier" when used in bobbin lace so that the extra threads can squeeze themselves into the space or have I totally misunderstood Brenda's work! Yes, silk is usually a bit "squashier" than cotton though it does depend a bit on how firmly or otherwise it is spun. Any thread gets less "squashy" if it is firmly spun. On the Piper's website their price list includes a list of comparable cotton threads. Both the 80/3s and the 90/3 they compare to Madeira Tanne 30, which I would agree with, but the 90/2 twisted gloss they compare to Tanne 50, Mettler 60/2 and Crochet cotton 80!!! Tanne 50 is finer than the 90/2 at 39 wraps/cm and Mettler 60/2 finer still at 46 wraps/cm. Crochet cotton 80 whatever that may be (Coats? DMC Cordonnet? Special Dentelles?) is likely to be around 30 wraps/cm I thought that where were 99 wraps per cm in Yarn "A" and the pricking said use yarn "B", if yarn B was within a reasonable number of "wraps" of A it would work Yes it should do although substituting a cotton for a silk will make quite a difference in the feel of the finished lace. and that otherwise you had an adjustment fact or to apply based on 99 X A/B (or 99 X A2/B2 ? - please answer this one too, someone, again!). Unfortunately it's not quite as simple as that! For torchon you should be able to fit 12 threads between footside pinholes, and for point ground laces 10 threads. There are tables in the front of my books for the different size grids. For sectional laces, such as Milanese, it has to be a bit more flexible, depending of course on how curved the braids are and how many pairs you are using in relation to the width of the braid, but about 8-10 thread widths between pinholes is a rough guide. Don't try to measure the distance between 2 adjacent pins - find a straight run and count the spaces along 10mm. A thread which measures 30 wraps/cm will fit 30 thread widths between pinholes which are 1cm (10mm) apart. If the pinholes are 5mm apart then 15 threads would fit between them (and the thread would be too fine for that pricking). but if the pinholes were only 3mm apart the same thread would only fit in 9 times and would be about right, but if the pinholes were 2mm apart it would be too thick as only 6 threads would fit between. An approximate guide for Milanese (based on measurements from Pat Read's books) is: 3 spaces/cm = 27 wraps/cm thread 3.5 spaces/cm = 30 wraps/cm thread 4 spaces/cm = 32 wraps/cm thread 5 spaces/cm = 40 wraps/cm thread 6 spaces/cm = 50 wraps/cm thread 7 spaces/cm = 56 wraps/cm thread Of course personal preference also comes into the equasion; you might want a thicker thread to give a substantial and dense appearance or you might want a lighter, airier appearance to your lace. Brenda http://www.argonet.co.uk/users/paternoster/ - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
