[lace] Is it a rib
In response to Tamara " " There are different turning stitches; the least bulky is to work to the turn, twist the worker and leave it and return with the last pair passed through." OK; this is the version I'd like to concentrate on, because it's both simple and versatile, and the one I invariably turn to, when I want a graceful curve, with some shape to it, but without too many pins. It's a "half-tape", as it were..." In looks, the other turning stitches are the same, the only reason for using one in preference to the others is that they fill the edge better and give more support to a straighter rib. "Monkey wrench #1: What if... On the pin-side, you don't do the "sewing" footside (pin under both pairs), but a "winkie pin" one instead - twist your worker pair (1, 2, 3 times; whatever's your preference), and work it back through the last passive on the inner curve, twist, leave, pick up the last-worked-through passive pair as your new worker, and scuttle back to the pin-side... Is it *still* a rib? And, BTW, you could have an 8-stick that way... :)" If you take the Honiton definition, no, but then they never thought of doing it any other way. You can do an 8-stick with the exchange pair edge, or up to as many as you want. I did a 40-plus-stick in a piece of Withof. Was that still a rib? With a winkie pin edge it would be more difficult to do sewings as the pin holes tend to close up on ribs, because they're not tensioned from the other edge. And if you don't want to do sewings, then have the pins in the centre and a turning stitch on both sides, then you can have a 6-stick if you do the "cloth stitch through and back with the same pair" edge. "Monkey wrench #2: What if... *All* the descriptions of "rib" (here and in Cook) presuppose that the worker pair moves in CTC - cloth/linen stitch. That's what I'm familiar with, that's what I've always done... But there's also that precocious darling to consider - the *half* stitch... It fills in spaces better than the cloth stitch does (about half the number of pairs are needed to cover the same width), if needfull, but is agreeable to being squeezed to a minimum (possibly more so than cloth stitch)." I read about this with interest last time you mentioned it after Ithaca, and haven't tried it yet, *but*.. I can see that it would fit into a tighter space, and that in a thicker thread it would have an interesting texture; what I don't understand is how it spreads out enough to look at all like half stitch without the support of a pin on the opposite side. Surely the returning pair will close the half stitch up, and even with subtle tensioning it will be difficult to maintain an open enough stitch for it to show as half stitch. And when it's a rib without the "stretch" from the second row of pins, I don't understand how half the pairs fill the same space. It obviously must be pretty special for you to be so excited about it, so bobbins out and sample needed. Jacquie - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Cause of Lace
Dear Gentle Spiders, Any lacemaker worth a reel of cotton should have the*Digital Archives of Documents Related to Lace* Volumes 1 through 4 in her/his library, and anxiously awaiting Volume 5. I have spent many a pleasurable hour perusing them and can't wait for Volume 5. The cost is nominal and the contents cannot be surpassed. If you don't have any or all of them, why don't you treat yourself to a Valentine present? You love you - don't you? We are eternally indebted to Tess and the Professor for making these CDs available to us. Thank you both for your dedication in the Cause of Lace. Usual disclaimers. Happy Scanning, Tess, Betty Ann in Roanoke, Virginia USA where it is happily snowing as I write... ~~ -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] .By the way, I have just had CDs1&2 reprinted, so we now have plenty in stock of all four CDs. And yes, we are working on number 5! - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Is it a rib?
Gentle Spiders, First of all, thanks to everyone who's participated so far. *Please*, keep them coming; I've been giving my printer a serious workout, but I think/hope other people might be interested in the results as well. Just the relationship between carrying pairs and the 3-D effect is fascinating (for example, it seems that in Honiton, 3-D is a secondary, but in Withof, the primary aim); the inherent possibilities for modern lace are staggering. More than I'd hoped for already, but I'm greedy - may we hear from France? And Germany? Spain? Denmark? On Jan 21, 2005, at 3:29, [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Jacquie) wrote: A rib or ten stick has pin holes along one edge (worked as an exchange pair edge) and a turning stitch at the opposite side. There are different turning stitches; the least bulky is to work to the turn, twist the worker and leave it and return with the last pair passed through. OK; this is the version I'd like to concentrate on, because it's both simple and versatile, and the one I invariably turn to, when I want a graceful curve, with some shape to it, but without too many pins. It's a "half-tape", as it were... Please, re-read Jacquie's description carefully, because I'd like to throw in a couple of monkey wrenches for your consideration... :) Monkey wrench #1: What if... On the pin-side, you don't do the "sewing" footside (pin under both pairs), but a "winkie pin" one instead - twist your worker pair (1, 2, 3 times; whatever's your preference), and work it back through the last passive on the inner curve, twist, leave, pick up the last-worked-through passive pair as your new worker, and scuttle back to the pin-side... Is it *still* a rib? And, BTW, you could have an 8-stick that way... :) Monkey wrench #2: What if... *All* the descriptions of "rib" (here and in Cook) presuppose that the worker pair moves in CTC - cloth/linen stitch. That's what I'm familiar with, that's what I've always done... But there's also that precocious darling to consider - the *half* stitch... It fills in spaces better than the cloth stitch does (about half the number of pairs are needed to cover the same width), if needfull, but is agreeable to being squeezed to a minimum (possibly more so than cloth stitch). Therefore, its possibilities and impact are at least twice as much as those of a cloth-stitch rib (whichever footside one uses on the pin-side) You scuttle from the pin to the inner curve, leave your worker (no need to twist, since a twist is part-and-parcel of hst), pick up the last passive pair, and scuttle back to the pin (of whichever kind). The principle (technique) of execution doesn't (much) differ from the "traditional" rib, though the implications and possibilities are beyond mind-boggling rich... But, is it *still* a "rib"? And, *no*... I *did not* think of it first, alas... :( I first came accross it in Cathy Belleville's Rosa Libre class in Ithaca, in early October of '04. But it's been on my mind ever since, and even indulging myself in some experimentation has not been enough to rid me of the awe... It's like following a well-mapped and smoothly-paved road and, suddenly, coming up to a roundabout, which offers more shooting off options than a 4th of July rocket :) I aways knew that Rosa Libre was revolutionary, but this particular little fragment of it has had my two brain-cells revolving at twice the speed (and making it hard to think of anything else... like pattern deadlines ). So In y'all's opinion... *Is* it a "rib"? And, a corollary question: is it something you've come accross before? If so, where? (please answer on the list) Yours, in freezing Lextropolis, where we're expecting a second dump of snow (but mixed with sleet and freezing rain this time) -- Tamara P Duvallhttp://t-n-lace.net/ Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Lace for Pauline's Heart
Hi All, Patty your heart edging is fabulous! So spidery and webby! I love it! Jane in Vermont, USA where the high temp. was 7F (-12C maybe) brr -Original Message- At last! I finished and mounted the lace for Pauline's Heart. Arachne Webshots: http://image30.webshots.com/31/7/68/75/252676875nBfdSZ_fs.jpg Patty > > - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] honiton questions
In a message dated 21/01/2005 17:12:15 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > To get the effect of the filling tucked behind the rib, you would have to > sew into the pinhole threads through the back of the rib where the > non-pinhole side faces the filling - best to avoid this and switch the > pinhole side when constructing the rib, I should think - unless that would > affect the overall appearance of the rib vis-a-vis the lace. The turning stitch side of the rib goes on the inside of the curve regardless of which side any sewings may need to come from. It is very difficult to get the rib to lie flat if it is worked on the outside of the curve (it folds up against the pins) and you need to do backstitches to try to put extra length on the tape/ turning stitch side; even with these (which in themselves make it hard to keep the tape even) it is hard to get it to stay flat. If the curve of the rib changes it is usual to change the pinhole side. If you are working next to the tape side of the rib, the work will lie over the top of the tape. If you are doing cloth or half stitch as distinct from fillings, you need enough pairs to fill the work right to where you are doing the sewings, ie it should be covering/concealing the rib. The sewings are all done into the pinhole bars as top sewings and are no harder to do from the tape side than from the pinhole side - in fact, when done from the tape side they tend to keep the pin holes open better because they are pulling the tape away from the pins slightly. Sewings are not done into the non-pinhole side, simply because there's nothing to sew into except by pushing through the solid cloth stitch. Jacquie - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] arachne raffle
Hi all and special thanks to Jane in Vermont - my dazzling new spider gloves arrived in the mail - am I lucky or what!!! I tried them on and put a few pins in the lace pillow, could not figure what the others in the room were laughing at. I think they were jealous. In return I have an item to raffle, a small drawstring bag I made that is broader than it is deep, and I haven't used it; dimensions 7.5 x 10 inches. It would be suitable for storing bobbins, a tatting project, or whatever - it is in the spirit of the spider gloves - and is black cotton with a print of garments, including underwear, from a witch's wardrobe , trendy in purple, yellow and red, but alas of one who had not discovered the decorative properties of Lace. So lace list - any takers for my raffle, anywhere in the world, send me a message with 'raffle' in the subject, I'll take names until Thursday Jan. 27 evening PST bye for now Bev in Sooke, BC (on Vancouver Island, west coast of Canada) Cdn. floral bobbins www.woodhavenbobbins.com - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Christina pillow
What a great idea. Thanks. On Friday, January 21, 2005, at 10:38 AM, Doris Southard wrote: Then in recent years I came up with a very simple alternative I don't even know now if I adapted someone else's idea or if it is all my own! I cut a circle about 18" across from quilted fabric, with a hole in the middle about 5" across. Sew this to a backing of heavy plastic of the same size and shape and cover all raw edges with bias tape. This goes over your lace on the pillow, plastic side down. Margot Walker in Halifax on the east coast of Canada - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Re: Rib'n'roll
In a message dated 21/01/2005 16:47:09 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I thought it was in Cook, but I looked and it wasn't there. Now I > have to look through my vast collection of books to try to find it. (May > take > a while) > Oh yes it is, chapter 9, #48, described as tubular roll finish but illustrated as a join between 2 different grounds. Thought it must be there as it was Bridget that taught me it. Jacquie - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] honiton questions
Thanks to everyone who wrote replying to my question about where to sew into a rib and what to do about short broken threads. Another question I have is how to end each section neatly if the pairs are not required for another part of the lace. After working a filling and leaving off pairs as the area narrows, are those pairs just tied and cut off? Where you have a lot of pairs to dispose of at the end of a filling are they bundled together and then the bundle sewn in to tie it all down to the existing lace? It is great having a wealth of knowledge at my fingertips from friends all around the world who have probably had more chance of taking workshops with teachers who know how things should be done. Janice Janice Blair Crystal Lake, 50 miles northwest of Chicago, Illinois, USA - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
re: [lace] honiton questions
Hi Janice and everyone: > Where you have a piece that is surrounded by a rib which faces in both > directions how do you do the sewings for the filling? One side is okay > because you have the regular pin hole so that you can make a sewing into > the side bars as well as the edge threads, but where you have to do a > sewing and the ribbed edge is to the filling how do you make the > sewings? Do you sew around the rib or do you sew over the rib and into > the pin hole threads? To get the effect of the filling tucked behind the rib, you would have to sew into the pinhole threads through the back of the rib where the non-pinhole side faces the filling - best to avoid this and switch the pinhole side when constructing the rib, I should think - unless that would affect the overall appearance of the rib vis-a-vis the lace. Working up into the pinholes from the back of the rib sounds awkward - I would make a call whether the appearance of the lace is worth the manoever - or worth switching the pinhole sides. When I encountered this, I fiddled with the sewings briefly, then opted simply to sew into the rib itself - tut, tut. At 20 feet, or even 2 feet, it isn't noticeable. When making a Honiton piece, if a thread breaks close to the work, again it's a call - but mostly I lay in a new thread and bobbin. The work is usually so crammed that a thread end won't be apparent - if this happens in an area of half-stitch, then I'd be more fussy about adding in a thread because it will be more noticeable in HS. Most often I get a broken thread while doing sewings around a roll. Although frustrating to the lacemaker, the appearance of the lace isn't affected by simply laying in a new thread. -- bye for now Bev in Sooke, BC (awaiting the next pineapple express (= warm wind from Hawaii) on Vancouver Island, west coast of Canada) Cdn. floral bobbins www.woodhavenbobbins.com - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] earrings and teens
> I loved the earrings, please tell your son he did a great job. I called > my 23 year old daughter in too see the picture and she thought it was so sweet! How old is your son and how long has he been making lace? He's now 17, and hasn't really made lace since he was about 6. The only other occasion was about 2 years ago when he put a few stitches into a stole I was making for a priest and he wanted to be involved too. Sue - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [lace] Re: Rib'n'roll
> To me a rib is 10 stick, a one footside tape (only 1 line of pinholes).
And, on the pinless side you swap the workers, with or without a twist,
yes? That is, you take the last passive and use it as a new worker?
Just as you would at the footside, but pinless? Or do do you use the
same worker to traverse back?
The physics requires that the non-pinned side of the rib do something
clever or else it would just flop around. Bridget Cook shows several different
options always involving swapping the last passive with the worker.
> A roll is carrying threads from one place to another by sewing around
> the group of threads along the edge of the work.
You use one thread to wrap your bundle, or a pair? Or differently in
different techniques? In addition to being ignorant of Honiton, I'm
also ignorant of Duchesse and Cantu... :)
I sew with a pair.
> There exists a much more fidety technique of a what I have always
> identified as a "tube" to distinguish it from the "roll" above. This
> technique is an extension of 10 stick, in that it, too, only has 1
> line of pinholes, but instead of just rolling the threads being
> transported, the weaver work CTC through all the pairs makes the
> footside and then the worker is taken back to the first passive pair
> and worked through to the footside.
Not sure I understand... Starting at the footside: pin under 2 prs,
one's the worker/weaver, the other waits its turn... Then what? The
worker/weaver works in CTC through all the pairs? Or one thread goes
under, one over all the pairs *except* the last, with which it makes a
CTCT and swaps? To go back to the footside in CTC?
The "tube" sounds intriguing, never mind how fussy it is :) Where can I
find it illustrated?
I thought it was in Cook, but I looked and it wasn't there. Now I have
to look through my vast collection of books to try to find it. (May take a
while)
> There seems to be rattling around in my brain someplace a fourth kind
> of carrying threads, but I can't for the life of me bring it to mind.
There are loads and loads of ways of carrying threads... :) Some seem
to have names, some don't.
My speculation is that, as long as the primary aim is to transport a
number of threads from one place to another, there's less likelihood of
having a name for the process - we're interested in *hiding* our
actions, not in exposing them. It's when there's a change in the
"attention angle", when the fact of carrying of pairs becomes more or
less immaterial and the visual *effect* becomes the focus, that a
method gets a name.
Some have names in one language, but not in another. Some have one name
in one language and quite a different one in another... :) Given that
my "funny bone" is always exposed like a raw nerve, my absolute
favourite is the Princesse stitch... :)
That's the one which's somewhat similiar to the Venetian cord; you have
a pack of threads to transport, and you transport them as two "columns"
rather than one (as in a roll). But, instead of weaving *one* thread
over and under the two "columns" (Venetian cord), you weave *two*. They
meet, in a Cross, in the centre, then go on to their over/under
business. Very nice, very useful, though a nuisance to tension
properly.
It's called "Princesse" (stitch?) in German and in French. It's called
"Grand Venetian cord" in Cook's "Practical Skills"... The French book I
have ("Dentelle au fuseau; dentelle du Puy" by a whole lot of authors)
also says that it: "...est egalement appelee: venise batard" (sorry,
can't do the foreign language "squirmies" on my keyboard). My French is
pretty much non-existent, but... From "grand" to "bastard"??? How are
the mighty fallen...
Yours, always interested in language's vagaries in Lextropolis (Clay's
moniker) or Lex Vegas (my step-grandson's), where we're pregnant with
snow, after several successive days of "dusting" (never more than an
inch)
--
Tamara P Duvallhttp://t-n-lace.net/
Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland)
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[lace] Christina pillow
When I first heard about Christina lace pillows. early in my lacemaking experience, they cost about $80. That was just as out-of-reach then as $1000 is for most people now. For years I thought about them and wished ... but was also pretty happy with what equipment I had and had fun making lace. Then in recent years I came up with a very simple alternative I don't even know now if I adapted someone else's idea or if it is all my own! I cut a circle about 18" across from quilted fabric, with a hole in the middle about 5" across. Sew this to a backing of heavy plastic of the same size and shape and cover all raw edges with bias tape. This goes over your lace on the pillow, plastic side down. The bobbins fan out to lie on the quilted fabric. As you need to move large numbers of bobbns aside, you just turn the "donut", without disturbing the placement of the bobbins. I like the feel of the quilted fabric under my hands as I work and the quilting helps a lot to keep bobbins from rolling. It works for me and I no longer yearn for a Christina pillow at all. This device is NOT meant to keep threads from catching on pin heads. I use another piece of heavy plastic with a small hole in the middle directly over the pattern and the pins for that. Doris Southard in Iowa - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Liberty Lacers Schedule
Hello Everyone: The following is the Liberty Lacers schedule for the year. If you would like to visit us please email me privately for details. Monthly meetings - Day Group The second Thursday of each month Monthly meetings - Evening Group The third Wednesday of each month The next meeting of both day and evening group will be held on May 22, 2005 Pompi Parry - Polychrome workshop April 9, 10, 11, 2005 Michael Giusiana June 24, 25, 26, 2005 Helen Seguin - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] earrings and teens
Sue, I loved the earrings, please tell your son he did a great job. I called my 23 year old daughter in too see the picture and she thought it was so sweet! How old is your son and how long has he been making lace? Irene Whitham Surrey, BC - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Earrings & teens
For those of you wondering how to get teenagers to make lace, have a look at my latest page on our picture gallery: http://www.webshots.com/homepage.html Username: Arachne2003, Password: honiton See the last two photos under "Sue Babbs" My son's latest girlfriend is doing fashion design at school and he couldn't decide what to get her for her birthday, which was two days ago. In the end he agreed that a pair of earrings would be wonderful. He needed help with the start and finish, but remembered quite quickly how to make lace. She was thrilled (and now her best friend is after a pair!) I think he also gave her the photo of him making them as proof. (Yes we took a video clip too!) You can see in the last photo how untidy my lace table is at present! And also the cat's own "lace pillow" on it! The pizza box on the floor was what we used to spray the hairspray on to before painting it on to the silk to stiffen the earrings Sue [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Ribs, rolls, bundles and tubes
The Greek lacemakers on Aegina use a wrapping method to carry their threads from one place to another. It was interesting to me to see that they didn't seem to bother about which side was up: the wraps were on made either side. It requires a bit of skill, but done right it looks very sleek. They just bundle all the threads to be moved and wrap tightly till the whole is covered. If you go to the OIDFA Congress in 2006 in Greece, you will see Anna doing this. Some of you may remember her at the Greek exhibit in Suchol, she of the wonderful warm personality and glorious smile. Tess ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Pat Jones, USA
Pat Jones, USA. You made an entry in my guestbook at webshots, I can´t find you mail address. Could you please contact me? -- Ann-Marie, Ljusdal http://community.webshots.com/user/annma1 - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Ribs, rolls, bundles and tubes
Jacquie wrote: > " I think you misunderstood my use of "emphasise", and that we are probably saying the same." Sorry Jacquie! And the lace dragon you did send me privately is beautiful! Anneke Reijs in Baexem, The Netherlands [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.hetnet.nl/~aplag/ - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Ribs, rolls, bundles and tubes
I think Anneke misunderstood my use of "emphasise", and that we are probably saying the same. I was just trying to keep it brief as I knew the whole post would be lengthy. I agree that the roll emphasises the design by giving it depth and strengthens the design lines by making them bolder. But its purpose is largely an aesthetic one and not because it is needed to carry pairs to somewhere else in the work. It is the way I used rolling for my Basilisk entry in Myth and Mystery. In Honiton the roll is used in a more functional way to carry pairs from one piece to the next which reduces the need to keep stopping, bowing off and starting again. This strengthens the design structurally, and visually to some extent but the rolls tend to be less bold in relation to the rest of the work. They are generally not so immediately obvious as in Withof because they are rarely at the edge of the work. Honiton tends not to have the 3D, carved-out-of-ivory look that Withof has. Jacquie - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] webshots
Hi, could some kindly more organised person than myself remind me of the Arachne webshots user name and password. I had them saved on my last computer but never wrote them down. thanks jenny barron Scotland - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] lacemaking and motorcycle riding
Hello, I remerber a story : In Retournac museum (http://www.ville-retournac.fr/musee/anglais/indexang.htm) near Le Puy France, there is a motobike in the laces. It is a old french motobike, a ravat gave by Rose Ouilhon. (like this one but worn http://moto.photo1.free.fr/031101/DSC02247.JPG) The museum write a very interesting book about the story of this woman : http://www.ville-retournac.fr/musee/anglais/indexang.htm I think it's only in french. I readed it in one evening. This women, Rose Ouilhon worked for a lace shop in Retounac (leveuse de dentelles in french) . She gave thread and picking and collected lace in country. She knowed exactly what women could make : who could work quikkly, made care lace, simple lace, difficult lace... She does this job because her cousin does it. Her brother was a soldier and went to do war. So she took his motobike! She live in a cold country (old mountains and sleeping volcano) with snow in winner. After a long time, she could buy a car : a 2cv (http://perso.wanadoo.fr/jybe/citroen/2cv.htm) She was born in 1930 and stop working in ...1990. She live in her parents farm and helped at farm works to have correct food. In 1943, what win a leveuse (collected woman) corresponding now at 90 euros for a month. A lacemaker 15 euros for a month. Dentellez bien Sof - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Ribs, rolls, bundles and tubes
Jacquie wrote about rolling: > "in Withof it is mostly to emphasise the edges" But no, that is not the case. In Withof rolling is done to bring depth in the lace. When a next part of the lace is sewn over the bundle into the finished part, the 2nd part will be behind the 1th part on the right side of the lace. When there is no additional part is attached to a worked part, the rolling strenghtens the lace. For rolling we use in Withof between 2 - 8 threads. The threads are bundled and worked as raised veins. Anneke Reijs in Baexem, The Netherlands [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.hetnet.nl/~aplag/ - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Lace for Pauline's Heart
At last! I finished and mounted the lace for Pauline's Heart. Arachne Webshots: http://image30.webshots.com/31/7/68/75/252676875nBfdSZ_fs.jpg Patty - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Learning tallies
At 06:33 PM 1/3/2005, you wrote: I know that there are different techniques for making tallies other than the standard "woven" tally, and am interested in finding instructions and tips on using these alternative methods. Tamara, you have sent one of these techniques to the list before. I would be grateful for your and anyone else's advice and suggestions. Many thanks, Myrriah Lavin Dear Myrriah, I learned to make tallies from Christine Springett while learning Bedfordshire lace from her. Even so, I had to make a modification because I simply could not do what large, long fingered hands can. To make nicely pointed leaf tallies, start and end with a cloth stitch (CTC) A pointed leaf tally is built in 3 parts First - a triangle that increases from the first CTC Second - a straight section as wide as the wide end of the first triangle Without the straight section, you will get a diamond, which is useful to know and a nice trick to pull out of your hat when you want a diamond shaped tally. The straight section is what creates the illusion of a curve the length of the tally. Third - a triangle that decreases in width down to the last CTC The lengths of all three sections are equal, that is, each part should be a third of the length of the tally. Now, in more detail, the exact operations THE PREPARATION Step 1. CTC at the beginning of the leaf See What IF? section a. for odd cases Step 2. Twist the 2 right threads, the rightmost thread is your weaver Step 3. Tension the point of your leaf nicely by tensioning the weaver Step 4. Shorten the passives and lengthen the weaver I like my passives less than 3 inches long and my weaver is about twice that long. You will develop your own feel. Some people don't like the short passives. You must be able to hold the passive bobbins in such a way that a. They are spread as wide apart as you can b. All 3 passives are under tension *** You CANNOT tension the weaver unless all the passives are under tension and separated as widely as possible. *** Christine Springett simply lays her hand flat across all the passive bobbins and holds the bobbins down both spread out and under tension. She positions the passive bobbins apart on the pillow and then clamps them down with her hand and forearm, if necessary. I can't do this. It hurts my hand and my wrist. My method is to hold the passive bobbins between my fingers. When making a tally, I pick up all three bobbins, with the third bobbin between my ring finger and pinkie. *** Side Note: Picking up bobbins so that each bobbin can be tensioned separately Curl your fingers and lay your hand on your pillow so that your hand is resting on your knuckles. This is the bobbin handling position. Lay 2 bobbins on the pillow Bring your curled fingers down over the pair of bobbins so that the one bobbin is between your Thumb and Index finger, and the other bobbin is between your Index finger and your Middle finger. Pick up the bobbins You can wiggle and tension each bobbin separately. (At last a feeling of control!)To see this more clearly, make a fist and insert pencils or straws (or even bobbins!) between your thumb and index finger, between index and middle fingers and between the ring and pinkie fingers. Using this basic bobbin handling technique, I simply add another bobbin between my Ring finger and pinkie. For tallies, controlling the passives means to have them under tension at all times when the weaver is to be tensioned. Picking them up and arranging them doesn't have to flow like a dance number. Control is more important than finesse. Also, you don't have to hold them high. After clamping the passive bobbins in my "claw", I rest my hand on the pillow. This method is awkward and peculiar to describe, but for me, it doesn't hurt and I have good control of the passives. ** ~~~ Now rest.~~~ Put the bobbins down. Step 5. TWIST the right 2 threads, then CROSS Step 6. With the left 2 threads, TWIST TWICE, then CROSS and TWIST the right 2 threads What you have now is a full weave across and back again. Starting on the right, the weaver has gone over, under, over, and then from left to right - under, over, under. There has been no tension on the weaver yet, so the weaving may be a little loose. That's OK. Step 7. Tension the passives and spread them as wide as you can, any way you can. A third alternative will be given later. Step 8. With the passives under tension (getting obsessive, aren't I ?) Tension the weaver as follows: Without using a lot of force, take the weaver bobbin straight back behind the start of the tally. This will compress the weaver thread back to the point of the tall
Re: [lace] lacemaking and motorcycle riding
Hello, Here, in France I don't know any lacemaker who ride motobike except.. me. I noticed that a lots of people remember me in french meeting : Some times I go with my motobike and look somewhere to put my helmet and my big clothes. Women look at me amazing and in lace class it's the same. They usually speak about my motobike. They are very interesting how I can put my pillow on it!! I have a motobike because I rided a lot with my father when I was young and it's a wonderfull souvenir. I always said what I wanted a motobike. Dentellez bien Sof in France with stom (my motobike sleep for 2 months!!) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] lacemaking and motorcycle riding
I like math a lot (although biology still wins). I don't have a motorcycle, but I see how that could be interesting. Doesn't everyone like food?? Weronika On Fri, Jan 21, 2005 at 11:05:51AM +0200, Jacqui wrote: > It's a form of performance art. Even if I feel slightly ridiculous in > leathers (short, round lacemaker's figure, great low center of gravity). > > Do all lace makers also like food? > > It looks as though there are a lot of common criteria for lace makers! > > - > To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: > unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > -- Weronika Patena Caltech, Pasadena, CA, USA http://vole.stanford.edu/weronika - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] lacemaking and motorcycle riding
It's a form of performance art. Even if I feel slightly ridiculous in leathers (short, round lacemaker's figure, great low center of gravity). Do all lace makers also like food? It looks as though there are a lot of common criteria for lace makers! - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] lacemaking and motorcycle riding
I was a Biker and hubby still is to a certain extent. What I have noticed is that computer workers (programmers and technicians) pick up lace a lot quicker than non-computer workers. (Maybe it is how the brain processess information). - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] kingfisher
Hello Jean Would you please get in contakt with me Dorte www.f2.pg.yahoo.com/ph/dorte_zielke/my_photos Internal Virus Database is out-of-date. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.296 / Virus Database: 265.5.0 - Release Date: 09-12-2004 - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] honiton questions
Hi Janice, As others have already explained, when sewing in for a filling in Honiton you sew your pairs into the side of the pin holes (top sewings) whether there is a plain edge or a rolled one. You are working from the back in honiton lace so the effect that you are aiming for is for the edge of the filling to disappear behind the edge of the motif. Jean in Cleveland U.K. On 20 Jan 2005, at 20:01, Janice Blair wrote: I have a question regarding doing fillings in honiton. Where you have a piece that is surrounded by a rib which faces in both directions how do you do the sewings for the filling? - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Ribs, rolls, bundles and tubes
Honiton raised work is when there are ribs that are then worked over the top of, such as along the edge of a leaf. The rib is used to carry pairs to a different place on an unworked bit of the design. Raised and rolled is when a roll is also used to carry pairs by the side of a worked piece. Apart from the ones used to attach the roll, all the sewing are top sewings. A rib or ten stick has pin holes along one edge (worked as an exchange pair edge) and a turning stitch at the opposite side. There are different turning stitches; the least bulky is to work to the turn, twist the worker and leave it and return with the last pair passed through. One stitch only at the turn, use for tight curves. The most bulky is to work to the end and return with the same pair (feels strange to do to start with!). Two stitches at the end, use for straight or near straight ribs. The in-between one is the Milanese turning stitch - 5 movements, c,t,c,t,c. Use for in-between curves. With all ribs concentrate on making a flat tape of a very even width, not a little bit of string pulled up as tight to the pins as possible. A roll is to carry threads from one place to another. For the Withof type roll the threads are laid next to the edge and sewed in place with one thread only. For Cantu the roll carries the pairs around pins away from the work, and the work is sewn to the roll on the way back. In Honiton the roll is used in a functional way within the work (in Withof it is mostly to emphasise the edges) and is a bit more complicated. The roll pairs minus 2 are twisted as a bundle, one of the two pairs is then wrapped around the bundle and used to attach to far end of the bundle to the final pin hole of the piece to be rolled. The second of the two pairs is then used to attach the bundle to each pin hole with side sewings. Bundle is also the term used for the threads turned onto the back of the work to be tied down when finishing at a point. The "tube" is a rather different thing. It is worked with one row of pin holes, and a twist round the pin edge. You work across the row and then lift the workers back over the top of the work, round the pin and back through the work again. By using tight-ish tension the passives are pulled into a rope or tube. It is useful to act as a "bridge" between two areas of ground which need a different number of pairs or a different thread or pinhole spacing. Pairs can be easily incorporated from the work and left out either for use or to be cut off. Similarly, it is easy to add new pairs into the tube to have extra pairs for a finer ground or to change the thread to a different one on the new side. Once the pins are out, the pin loops tend to disappear. Jacquie - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
