[lace] Will be gone for the weekend
My apologies for the cross post Quick intro to "Arachne" and "Bobbin Lace Making" - I've been lurking due to hand problems but I'm Tracie in CA and I'm very new to lace making. I bought the "kit from hell" (before I knew it was from hell of course) and am doing my best to deal with it right now until I determine that lace making is for me (which I am starting to believe! LOL). As soon I as I convince myself this is a hobby I will stick with, I'll look into purchasing or making a better pillow - cuz the "pillow from hell" sucks! LOL Just FYI - I know I havent been very active lately but I wanted to let you know that I'm leaving tomorrow for a friend's house and will be gone all weekend. I may check in but I won't be accessible much. I've decided to leave my options to individual emails so to all list moms - if I bounce, please add me back...I do want to remain a member! :) Happy Weekend to you all! Many Blessings, Tracie AIM: areannaroisin, YAHOO: sheradiates - "Who will share in the faith that we are the sum of the choices we make?" ~ Gypsy Soul from the song "Who" - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Re: Finca threads
On Apr 21, 2005, at 9:15, Carol Adkinson wrote: I am using some coloured Finca workers in a mat, and am having trouble with it breaking, and wonder if it is anything to do with the fact that it *is* coloured, albeit pastel! If I were a betting person, I'd be - almost - willing to bet that the colour which keeps breaking is a pale green (sort-of like inner bits and leaves of a celery stalk). I have - consistently - had problems with that colour in: Madeira Tanne (50/2), Moravia linen (40/2) and Colcoton Unikat (34/2). But it's a lovely colour and I'm unwilling to give up using it; I'm just extra gentle with it. -- Tamara P Duvallhttp://t-n-lace.net/ Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Finca threads
I too only have good things to say about this thread. I have a piece of Bucks Point that has been on the pillow for about a year now. As I have decided that I am not likely to get to finish it I decided last week to cut it off. This pillow with at least 150 pairs on it has been stored (very badly in my cupboard for at least the last 8 months, during which time, thinks have been dumped on it and it has been tipped over at least twice. When I went to cut it off there were only 2 broken threads out of all those bobbins on the pillow. This thread is a 100 or a 120 I think, certainly no thicker than that. A good testament to the threads strength in my opinion. Claire Kent,UK Now back home after a wonderful trip to Brugge. Thank you so much for all the tips of places to visit. Especially Milada who emailed me a whole A4 sheet of information. We had a lovely time visiting all those places that you recommended. On 21 Apr 2005, at 10:36 pm, Antje González wrote: Hello all, As a Finca user and Spanish lacer at the same time, I want to make my comments about Finca's threads. I also think that Elizabeths's friend has been very unfortunate to get this bad reel of Finca. But this is really not the normal thing to happen. I have been using Finca for many years (8 or 9 to be more precise) and I have never had any problems. I have especially used number 30, 40 and 50. Also the result of this thread after washing is not bad, although there are other threads which I like more, as I have said some other time. But this is just a matter of taste. I have never found thread in bad condition, nor knots nor anything. Perhaps your friend should give Finca another oportunity! Many greetings from Antje González, in Guadalajara, Spain http://es.geocities.com/antjeglezherrero/ - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Finca threads
Hello all, As a Finca user and Spanish lacer at the same time, I want to make my comments about Finca's threads. I also think that Elizabeths's friend has been very unfortunate to get this bad reel of Finca. But this is really not the normal thing to happen. I have been using Finca for many years (8 or 9 to be more precise) and I have never had any problems. I have especially used number 30, 40 and 50. Also the result of this thread after washing is not bad, although there are other threads which I like more, as I have said some other time. But this is just a matter of taste. I have never found thread in bad condition, nor knots nor anything. Perhaps your friend should give Finca another oportunity! Many greetings from Antje González, in Guadalajara, Spain http://es.geocities.com/antjeglezherrero/ - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] demonstrating comments
Hi, I'm normally a lurker but I couldn't help but share this. I was demonstrating lacemaking at a seniors center. I was trying to explain that I was making a garter and pointed out the actual lace to a woman. She responds with "What are they all going to think when the bride makes all that noise walking down the aisle?" Immediately, I had a visual picture of the 100+ bobbins hanging from the brides leg and had a fit of giggles. Back to lurkdom Kim Czerwinski in Delaware - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Overlapping ends of bobbin lace edging
Hi all, I can not agree with you, point lace ground is the easiest of the lace to do a joining. I had the joining -lace cours in Brugge and my first attemts to join lace was some point Lille as we say in Europe. you work the joining over CTTT aeria over two rows, so no difficulty to hold on long term. I lately learned how to beginn and end this kind of lace with nods and I was not happy at all with the result. As I showed my teacher the joining in some of my former laces she said that with the result I had, she can understand me but most of her students dont work well with a needle so she prefers the nodded technique. I only can recommend to try joining point-Lille lace, so you can decide wich way works best for you Alix from sunny but cold Luxembourg - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Re: lace-digest V2005 #136
Laminating lace. hi Arachnids, it might be worth pricking the air bubbles with a pin and then putting the whole thing through the laminator again. That can sometimes help the material of the pouch to settle around an uneven surface. Hope it's successful Libby, in sunny Shrewsbury UK > > Date: Wed, 20 Apr 2005 12:05:20 +0100 > From: "Carol Adkinson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Re: [lace] laminating > > Hi Spiders All, > > I have followed this with interest, as it is what I do with some - only > some! - of my prickings. But - a cautionary note! > > The mother of one of my children had the mat which the child had made > laminated - against my better judgement, I must add! - and was very upset > with the results. Because the mat was not flat like a pricking, the > lamination produced lots of air bubbles - which was what I half suspected, > and warned against - over the mat, and really did spoil it completely. The > child was devastated, as it was quite a big achievement for her, a relative > beginner, to have completed the mat, so the outcome was not a success! > > So - if you ever have the desire to laminate the lace itself, do think > carefully. The laminating was done in a local stationery store - maybe it > would depend on who does the laminating, but I suspect it would always be > liable to air bubbles, and therefore disappointment ensues, to some extent. : - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Finca threads
Patricia in Wales wrote:- > I had great trouble with threads breaking while using a pale green Cotona > Madiera 30. (snip) So I assumed there is something in pastel colours' > dye which damages the thread - and it isn't present in deep colours. this may > apply to finca, too. Some years ago, I remember having the same trouble with a pale green cotton thread, Brillante d'Alsace 30. Maybe it's something to do with green dye ? Linda Walton, (miserably asthmatic in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.). - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Finca threads
Carol I had great rtrouble with threads breaking while using a pale green Cotona Madiera 30. Since then I have used Christmas red (once) and regal purple (twice) without any problems. So I assumed there is something in pastel colours' dye which damages the thread - and it isn't present in deep colours. this may apply to finca, too. Patricia in Wales [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Overlapping ends = reply PS
At 06:51 AM 4/21/2005, you wrote: Can anyone think of a reason that I can't do the overlap method with this piece of lace? P.S. --The book recommends practicing with commecial lace and colored thread so you can see what you are doing. Alice - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Overlapping ends = reply
At 06:51 AM 4/21/2005, you wrote: I have been saving all the discussions about overlap finishes. But someone (Alice?) said that it doesn't work well with point ground laces because the ground is too fine.. In Shelley Canning's book 32 Downton Lace Patterns, she says that Downton lace was traditionally joined with a seam and then oversewn. . Can anyone think of a reason that I can't do the overlap method with this piece of lace? Hi, This is Alice, and that comment did not come from me. The Het Lassen book has pictures on p. 40 and 42 of pieces of antique Mechlin that were joined by this method. One picture shows a repair that replaced a section of net with this method. The comments in the book said that earlier fashions had the lace gathered or pleated. Pieces were just seamed since the seam was lost in the gathers. When handkerchiefs with corners became fashionable, methods were needed to connect the lace with a joining that looked the same on both sides. Also, the Belgian laces that began with bundled threads had to have a joining method that did not involve knots. Their 'lassen' method spread to other laces. At another spot in the book, the author says that mesh is easier to 'lassen' but a firm mesh has less problems that a stretchy mesh such as Tulle. Later in the book are diagrams for working with mesh. Page 82 has a picture of point ground lace that was joined. So, I would see no reason why the newer method of 'lassen' could not be used with the Downton lace instead of the old method of seaming, provided there is sufficient overlap to choose the best pathway across the lace. Happy lacing, Alice - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Horror Kit/Victorian Trading Co?
EEW..the horror kit. About learning. I have found that bobbin lace is the easiest thing I ever learned to do ***and*** the hardest to do well As Gertrude Biedermann (bless her soul) used to say, "practice, practice, practice " BarbE There's always a lot to be thankful for, if you take time to look for it. For example ,I am sitting here thinking how nice it is that wrinkles don't hurt. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: lace@arachne.com Sent: Thursday, April 21, 2005 10:19 AM Subject: [lace] Horror Kit/Victorian Trading Co? Don't know if this has come up before since I don't usually read postings entitled horror kit. But my attention has been drawn by a nonlace friend to a kit offered through the Victorian Trading Company at _http://www.victoriantradingco.com/store/catalogimages/9i/i1473.html_ (http://www.victoriantradingco.com/store/catalogimages/9i/i1473.html) . It describes lacemaking as a "surprisingly simple art form." Devon - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Horror Kit/Victorian Trading Co?
Don't know if this has come up before since I don't usually read postings entitled horror kit. But my attention has been drawn by a nonlace friend to a kit offered through the Victorian Trading Company at _http://www.victoriantradingco.com/store/catalogimages/9i/i1473.html_ (http://www.victoriantradingco.com/store/catalogimages/9i/i1473.html) . It describes lacemaking as a "surprisingly simple art form." Devon - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Overlapping ends of bobbin lace edging
The point ground style lace ground is made with 2 pairs working cttt pin and that's it. A flanders type ground is made with 4 pairs doing something on the lines of ct on each of two sets of 2 pairs of bobbins, ctct on the centre 2 pairs, ct again on both sets of 2, pin, ctct in the centre again and then another ct on the 2 sets. You can see immediately why with the second there is enough to be able to stitch around and anchor everything, and with the first it would just pull apart. When Downton was made the corners would have been gathered and the seam (just a normal sewing seam across, using tiny stitches and then cut off the spare to about 1/4" and oversew back, making a roll so the ends are all tucked in) can then be concealed just at the start of the gathers. It is far less noticeable than you think it's going to be. Malvary and I spent several bemused hours yesterday going through a large box of Victorian and Edwardian clothes - ladies underwear and blouses, baby clothes, and childrens dresses - probably 40 or 50 items in all, that we found in a box right in the far back corner of Mum's workroom (and which has probably been buried for 25 years at least). Neither of us knew they were there, or have seen them before. The lace and embroidery was quite often joined to be able to use it most effectively and it doesn't detract at all. I think it is a modern thing that the join should be invisible in all cases, but I am as guilty of this as everyone else. Jacquie - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Overlapping ends of bobbin lace edging
I have been saving all the discussions about overlap finishes. But someone (Alice?) said that it doesn't work well with point ground laces because the ground is too fine. Here's my situation. I have made lots of an edging from Bertha Kemp's book of Downton Lace. The pattern is Duke's Garter. A friend is getting married and I would like to lop off some of this edging to put on a hanky for her. In Shelley Canning's book 32 Downton Lace Patterns, she says that Downton lace was traditionally joined with a seam and then oversewn. That sounds much more visible (for lack of a better word) than the overlap method that has been described on the list lately. Can anyone think of a reason that I can't do the overlap method with this piece of lace? If not, what other bright ideas does everyone have? Anxiously awaiting your knowledge and experiences, Diane Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED] Galena Illinois USA __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Finca threads
Hi All, I am using some coloured Finca workers in a mat, and am having trouble with it breaking, and wonder if it is anything to do with the fact that it *is* coloured, albeit pastel! I have used the white and ecru Finca, of both sizes, and have had no troubles at all - just with this one 'rogue' reel, and that is the only reason I can think of. Just my two-pennorth! Carol - in Suffolk UK - sunny and bright, lovely day for drying the blankets and heavy stuff ... - Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Sent: Thursday, April 21, 2005 10:02 AM Subject: Re: [lace] Finca threads - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Encapsulating versus laminating
Thanks for the information, Andy. This goes into my preservation file Hugs BarbE - Original Message - From: Andy Blodgett To: Carol Adkinson ; Lace Sent: Thursday, April 21, 2005 12:28 AM Subject: [lace] Encapsulating versus laminating I am so sorry her item was ruined. I do not laminate. I "encapsulate" genelogical papers I use Archival save mylar (flexible plastic that does not produce gasses which damage fabric & paper). Look for it in your office supply store. Frequently it comes like a sleeve with holes punched in the sides to hold papers. I cut the hole part off along with one short side then make a sandwich with the item (lace, paper etc) in the middle. 1. Put double stick tape around the edge of the top side of the bottom sheet 2. Place the lace item in the center. The Mylar should be just a little larger than the item plus the width of the double stick tape. This way the item never gets anything stuck to it, but floats freely in the middle between two sheets of Archival safe plastic. 3. Carefully place the second sheet of mylar on top. Beginning at one corner and working around to seal it. The result is something that is preserved, but not damaged and can be removed later without damaging the item by simply cutting the outside edge.between the item and the double stick tape. Hope this helps anyone wanting to preserve an item. Andy in Texas Carol Adkinson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Hi Spiders All, I have followed this with interest, as it is what I do with some - only some! - of my prickings. But - a cautionary note! The mother of one of my children had the mat which the child had made laminated - against my better judgement, I must add! - and was very upset with the results. Because the mat was not flat like a pricking, the lamination produced lots of air bubbles - which was what I half suspected, and warned against - over the mat, and really did spoil it completely. The child was devastated, as it was quite a big achievement for her, a relative beginner, to have completed the mat, so the outcome was not a success! So - if you ever have the desire to laminate the lace itself, do think carefully. The laminating was done in a local stationery store - maybe it would depend on who does the laminating, but I suspect it would always be liable to air bubbles, and therefore disappointment ensues, to some extent. Carol - in Suffolk UK. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Andy Blodgett Life is short. Eat dessert first. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Re: Weldon's numberings
--- Barbara Ballantyne <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > It was a very interesting topic as so many books > and magazines were > undated and some illustrious names were included on > the books published many > years after the lady had died. I suspect this was in part so that they could continue to sell magazine which would otherwise seem to be out of date! Weldon's certainly kept theirs in print while they were continuing publishing, as did the Manchester School of Needlework (after the first few were allowed to go out of print). It surprises me that with our ability to store on disc publishers of monthly magazines do not similarly keep all back-numbers available, but they don't! Leonard Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Finca threads
Hi Jacquie, I am now UK Presencia. Pat gets here threads fom me. Spain would never blame the worker. The lady you read about in previous emails has already been told to send what she has left back so that they can have a look at it and I am sure she will be more than reimbursed. I couldn't deal with it as she is in Australia. Finca is a lovely thread BUT I would never say in any thread that you will never never get a rogue reel. If you get any problem get in touch with me and we will sort it. I am please you are still willing to try again, it is sad when one bad experience puts you off completely. If you give me your address I will send you a reel of 100 or would you like to try one of the new coloured Finca lace threads? Let me know. Best wishes Vivienne. FINCA UK KEEP LACING, TATTING, CROCHETING AND EMBROIDERING, VIVIENNE, BIGGINS - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Finca threads
In a message dated 18/04/2005 07:36:59 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I have just been talking to a lacemaking friend, who has had a bad go with > a > reel of Finka - #60 I think. It has put her off ever using it again, but I > suspect she may have a bad reel, as I have not had any problems. I bought a reel of Finca 100 to use for Milanese when I was about to do the pieces for Pat Read's new book. I wound bobbins and started with the Split Braids piece. As I wound I noticed that in places the thread was slubby, like a linen thread, and I did think this was unusual for a cotton thread; particularly when it had been so highly recommended. As I began work I had broken threads, far more than I would expect for this weight thread, and eventually e-mailed Roseground to query it. Pat said I could send it back if I wanted, and that she would query it with the rep. (I have since heard from her that he implies it is impossible for there to be a fault, it must be me. Bad workman blames her materials!) As I had the first braid interlock done, I decided to keep using it for that piece, wound the bobbins for the next set and soldiered on and it did get better. When it came off the pillow, I liked the crispness of it and I had stopped having problems with breaks, so I thought maybe I had been heavy handed and just needed to get used to it. As I now had all these bobbins wound, I went straight on to Basil and I think only had one or two broken threads in all of it. Recently I have been working some new, white designs and having two bobbins cases full of bowed-off bobbins from Split Braids and Basil (they both needed lots of pairs), that's what I used. I am getting to the very end or *beginning* of the thread off the reel and am finding the slubs again (so I hadn't imagined them) and am being very gentle because it's not as strong as the rest of the reel was. I have nearly finished a snail and will empty the bobbins when I have. Enough is enough. And maybe find some slubby bits to send to Pat to show the rep. S, there was at the start of this reel an amount of thread enough to wind about 30 full bobbins (say 5 metres each) which was of a lower quality to the rest of the reel. I don't think it's just that the outside layers had got dry as I tried all the usually helpful humidifying tactics, and this would not explain the slubs. May I suggest that before your friend abandons Finca entirely, she pulls off a quantity of thread and sees if it is any better elsewhere on the reel. Also that she returns the reel to the supplier if at all possible for comment from the manufacturer. I have just bought another reel of 100, and some of the other thicknesses as well to try, so despite the shaky start I am another convert to Finca. Jacquie - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] unfortunate translation?
The original Dutch word is as unfortunate as the original. My husband whas
very puzzled, "what do you want with lassen/welding?" he asked me.
Jo Falkink
from Holland
> "Welding" is an unfortunate translation; they
> mean "joining". This class covers the type of joining ("lassen") that
Alice
> recently described so well, used in Flemish continuous laces (Flanders &
> Binche).
>
> Cathy Belleville
-
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[lace] Another table cloth pattern
One of Ann Moore's patterns (on her web site, google search will find it) is for a table cloth/mat/tray cloth etc and has advantages over the Veronica Sorenson one in that the borders all fit all the size middles. It is sold as a self-contained booklet and as she sells direct I would think it is probably still available. I have a student making the VS one and she had reached the penultimate round and realistically decided she was losing interest in it. She felt that if she missed a round then she could face the outer one and settle for a smaller cloth. However, because the pattern develops and each round is wider than the previous, you can't just omit one, so some fairly major redrafting was needed. The VS one is probably more interesting to work *because* each round is different, but know your own limitations. Onother student has made the one that Biggins sell, and it is just beautiful. I have some photos of it if anyone is interested. She joined it one the pillow as she was working it, which means that the tension in the join is the same as the lace because it's all pinned, and when it was finished it was blocked out and lightly spray starched. Do think how you plan to finish and store your cloth after all that work. Jacquie. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Re: Weldon's numberings
My first Mary Card book (Mary Card: Australian Crochet Lace Designer 2002) has an appendix on dating a range of needlework publications. I was not aware at that time that Richard Rutt had previously provided dates for Weldon's (fortunately our dates agreed). It was a very interesting topic as so many books and magazines were undated and some illustrious names were included on the books published many years after the lady had died. Further details from me personally [EMAIL PROTECTED] or on www.crochethistory.com (also www.lacis.com) Barbara Ballantyne Sydney Australia - Original Message - From: "Leonard Bazar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2005 3:09 AM Subject: [lace] Re: Weldon's numberings Weldon's started publishing their Practical Needlework magazines in 1886, producing one a month on various crafts, and issuing each year's in sequentially numbered volumes. Vol 10 was published in 1895. So far, so logical. Unfortunately, the separate monthly instalments were numbered by topic, so Point Lace Second Series (say) could have been published any time after the first, making it very difficult to date the separate monthly issues. In July 1915, when you would have thought the best minds were occupied elsewhere, they started indicating the months on the cover, as 7/15. They kept old numbers in print, good for us, but not for dating! All this from "A History of Hand Knitting" by Richard Rutt, who has sorted out when the knitting magazines were published. [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 21:03:35 -0400 > From: "Jane Viking Swanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [lace] Weldon's reprints > > Hi All, At the IOLI Convention last year I got > Volume 10 > of the Weldon's Practical Needlework series that > Piecework magazine is > reprinting. This one finally has Point Lace in it > (grandmother to > Battenberg/Tape Lace). However, there is > no date. They give the general dates but Weldon's > printed > booklets on many different needlework techniques > throughout > the year. I think it's probably from around 1898. > Does anyone > have any idea about when Weldon's published the > compendiums? Sometimes ads > in old magazines are for the new volume available. Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Another 'Technique of Tonder Lace on ebay
There's another cxopy of 'The Technique of Tonder Lace' by Inge Skovgaard on ebay (starting bid GBP2.50, 5 day auction), again postage to UK only. If anyone outside the UK is desparate for it and wants to bid, I'd be happy to take delivery and post on to you if you pay me the winning bid, postage to me and postage to you by Paypal, but contact me before you start bidding. Don't know what postage outside the UK will be, but it's getting more and more expensive, so it would be worth contacting the seller first to see if he/she would post outside the UK to save on the postage to me and make arrangements for me to pay for you - I'd still be happy to make payment for you for reimbursement by Paypal. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=1363&item=8186792838&rd=1 or search for item number 8186792838 Jean in Poole - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
