Re: [lace] Threads for Thomas Lester lace
Dear Mrs Sally, please do not compare the products used for weaving towards lace. The reason way is that in weaving you have a lot of fibres and such possible attachement fibres for making the products kling to it in lace you have almost no cloth, you create openings rather then weaved colsures. So what is used in profs... the same as is used for 100dres of years WATERBASE: sugar cornflower patatoflower ALCOHOLBASE: Shellack or other Pinethree based GUM and thraditional GUMMA arabica (the shellack and gumma you will find mostly in silk thulle like products like it is mostly sold for bridalwear , here yo can mostly clean and only gradualy it will loos stability) Buthylalcohol bases and these are the extra strong ones but also the extra dangerous ones because buthylalcohol is considered an cancerougenous product petrolbases resins. you can clean as oft as you want it will not do anythingh WHAT is the difference?? the waterbase is the most natural and also the most difficult the stronger you want your textile the more times you need to repeat the proces of applying it to the textile over and over again BUT in the end your textile stays "unspoiled" you can reinice it and will have again your natural peace of textile That is the minuspoint of the 2 others you apply it and that is it it will sty there for ever mostly in machine lace they will use a polymer which resambles serisine (silk gleu) but again the professional will look towards what is the enduse for the lace. if a special highend marked lace for "haute couture" it deos not matter they willnot clean it afterwards however if you make it for underwear.. well most persons will want to clean it regulary (normaly) there they will use no product at all i know that you are a bit startled now but there they will take an other sort of threads or add some special threads for makeing it stick and stay like intended. you are all woman out here so it will be easy to explain take one of your more fancy BH's if you have picots on the edges and you take a magnifier and look how it is made you will see that it has no reason stay in shape because in the machine picot is not made like we make a picot so way does it stay anyway like a picot? because in some of the threads there are thermofixing fibres which stick together when after the machine lace is made just ironing it will make it stay in form and that is moqtly forever mostly in all textiles you will find of theses fibres even in some "100%" pure natural ones because 100% does not realy mean 100% it all depends of the origine of the producing country. the moral of it all is do not just look to the finished product and ask yourself what starsh did they use? but rather start to look what kind of fibers did they use to start from? Because not all natural fibres can be made strong in the same way and as Mrs Sally was mentioning in her analyse of cotton you have cotton cotton and cotton. francis Sally Schoenberg schreef: Ordinarily I wouldn't dream of disagreeing with Barbara Underwood, but in the case of thread, I disagree with her. I've made Bedfordshire with Brok, Egyptian, and Finca. My lace made with Finca was nice and stiff unwashed, but after rinsing it in water, drying and pressing it, it turned into soft fuzzy lace. Rinse lace made with Brok thread in water, dry it and mangle or press it, and it is as limp as Egyptian. The main difference between Brok and Egyptian, I am convinced, is the sizing. Finca, I think, is an inferior thread made with short bits of cotton that has been coated with a strong sizing that is effective only until the first washing. I don't use Finca at all anymore. This is a subject I've been thinking about for awhile. I wish I knew what the thread manufacturers use for sizing. My handweaving books have some receipes for sizing and I've been thinking I need to do some experiments. Like Barbara, I want stiff Bedfordshire. Sally Schoenberg Farmington New Mexico - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 269.24.4/1476 - Release Date: 31/05/2008 12:25 - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Lace at Sweet Briar - class opening
Hello Lacemakers! There has been a cancellation in the s'Gravenmoerse class at "Lace at Sweet Briar". This class has been at capacity for some time. If any of you would like to take this spot, contact me right away (privately, please!) The Retreat is set for June 22 - 28. Clay -- Clay Blackwell Lynchburg, VA USA - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] {lacechat] Apology
Hello everyone I just want to apologise for not putting the lace in front of my message about petrol. It was a mistake not a virus.Daphne Norfolk England _ All new Live Search at Live.com - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [lace] Threads and sizing
Sally, yours is an interesting comparison. I have been told that dissolving Borax in the final rinse water adds body similar to the original sizing. Don't know what Jeri will think of this from a conservation point of view? Annette in a cold and wet Wollongong, South Coast of NSW, Australia -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Sally Schoenberg Subject: RE: [lace] Threads for Thomas Lester lace The main difference between Brok and Egyptian, I am convinced, is the sizing. Finca, I think, is an inferior thread made with short bits of cotton that has been coated with a strong sizing that is effective only until the first washing. I don't use Finca at all anymore. This is a subject I've been thinking about for awhile. I wish I knew what the thread manufacturers use for sizing. Like Barbara, I want stiff Bedfordshire. Sally Schoenberg Farmington New Mexico - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] magnifier/light SAFETY
Dear Janice and Other Magnifier Users, We cannot remind our members enough to keep any magnifier away from windows at all times, even at night. This is so they won't forget a magnifier is there when the sun comes into the room and lands on the magnifier. About a dozen years ago, a lacemaker/embroiderer "forgot" and burned her home down to the ground! Some people make a cover (like a cap) for the lens, which is a good idea and will keep it from being scratched or getting dirty. Still, there needs to be a family rule about where all magnifiers in the home are, and everyone in the home needs to know it. Perhaps a prominent printed warning should be attached to magnifiers, if any of our members are a little absent-minded. Sent to all with love, Jeri Ames Lace and Embroidery Resource Center -- In a message dated 5/31/2008 4:02:25 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Yesterday I was in Hobby Lobby and found the magnifier I mentioned about a week ago. It is a Vusion craft light and cost $29.99 but with the 40% discount it was just under $20 including tax. My intent was to use it on my lace pillow but just after I got home our power went out at 2:00 pm. It was out all night and finally came back on at 7:00 am this morning. The light came in handy once darkness has fallen to light my way around the house and for reading a book, much better than the candles I assembled during the afternoon. At first I did not think it worked but then I found that the included batteries were still wrapped in plastic! The removable base is heavy and is also magnetic so I could stick it on my fridge for light in the kitchen, but without the base I could clip it to my book. A very useful gadget that came in handy for me and hopefully will in my lacemaking. Janice **Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod000302) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] tallies and leaves
Thanks to all who helped me get myself sorted on the leaves. Managed to do two, then realized I should have brought in two new pairs, only added one, so am now undoing the leaves again. Good learning curve, I suppose. Should know how to do leaves by the time I finish my small Beds circle! Agnes Boddington - Elloughton UK Tamara P Duvall wrote: On Jun 1, 2008, at 8:33, Agnes Boddington wrote: Thanks for the comments on continental way of making leaves and tallies. Probably just me being silly, but when I tried both methods in thick string, I could not tell why they were different. The leaves themselves are not any different; they aren't supposed to be. There are at least 4 different methods of making leaves that I've tried and all of them produce similar (if not identical) leaf-tallies. The difference is in how you think while making them. I like the method shown in Rosalibre (I learn it first here, from Tess Parrish, who learnt it from someone in Canada, I think. This list is *fantastic* for passing info) best. That's because, instead of having to think "over under, over under" -- which I had trouble keeping track of -- this method reduces the procedure to terms which are already familiar: Cross and Twist. The sequence (one full pass of the worker thread) is: TT on the right, C in the middle, TT on the left, C in the middle. There's another "continental" way of making tallies, BTW. It's used in Cluny.The teacher tried to teach me how to make those during the workshop in Montreal but, unfortunately, I couldn't afford to have a chiropractor as a stand-by at all times :) The method does have certain advantages, though, as it allows you to use more than 3 passive threads (several on each side, a single in the middle) and keeping them *all* under tension. - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [lace] Threads for Thomas Lester lace
Ordinarily I wouldn't dream of disagreeing with Barbara Underwood, but in the case of thread, I disagree with her. I've made Bedfordshire with Brok, Egyptian, and Finca. My lace made with Finca was nice and stiff unwashed, but after rinsing it in water, drying and pressing it, it turned into soft fuzzy lace. Rinse lace made with Brok thread in water, dry it and mangle or press it, and it is as limp as Egyptian. The main difference between Brok and Egyptian, I am convinced, is the sizing. Finca, I think, is an inferior thread made with short bits of cotton that has been coated with a strong sizing that is effective only until the first washing. I don't use Finca at all anymore. This is a subject I've been thinking about for awhile. I wish I knew what the thread manufacturers use for sizing. My handweaving books have some receipes for sizing and I've been thinking I need to do some experiments. Like Barbara, I want stiff Bedfordshire. Sally Schoenberg Farmington New Mexico - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Exporting and printing with Lace R-XP
This afternoon, I hooked my printer up to my laptop and tried printing out what I'd done so far. Results: From Lace R-XP - brilliant Exported as PDF and printed from Adobe Reader 8 - brilliant Exported as EPS and inserted into Word 97 as a picture - brilliant Exported as EPS and inserted into Publisher 98 - brilliant. Imported into CoredlDraw 8 as an EPS file and resized - brilliant, but with thicker lines and heavier dots. Exported an EPS and 'Place' command used to put into Adobe Photoshop Elements 3 - Very faint; dots brilliant, but quality of some lines not good depending on angle. Probably because it's a photo manipulation program rather than a graphic one. Jean in Poole, Dorset, UK - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] tallies and leaves
On Jun 1, 2008, at 8:33, Agnes Boddington wrote: Thanks for the comments on continental way of making leaves and tallies. Probably just me being silly, but when I tried both methods in thick string, I could not tell why they were different. The leaves themselves are not any different; they aren't supposed to be. There are at least 4 different methods of making leaves that I've tried and all of them produce similar (if not identical) leaf-tallies. The difference is in how you think while making them. I like the method shown in Rosalibre (I learn it first here, from Tess Parrish, who learnt it from someone in Canada, I think. This list is *fantastic* for passing info) best. That's because, instead of having to think "over under, over under" -- which I had trouble keeping track of -- this method reduces the procedure to terms which are already familiar: Cross and Twist. The sequence (one full pass of the worker thread) is: TT on the right, C in the middle, TT on the left, C in the middle. There's another "continental" way of making tallies, BTW. It's used in Cluny.The teacher tried to teach me how to make those during the workshop in Montreal but, unfortunately, I couldn't afford to have a chiropractor as a stand-by at all times :) The method does have certain advantages, though, as it allows you to use more than 3 passive threads (several on each side, a single in the middle) and keeping them *all* under tension. -- Tamara P Duvallhttp://t-n-lace.net/ Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] tallies and leaves
Agnes Boddington <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Ages ago someone showed me an easier way of making tallies and leaves, but I think I wrote it down wrongly as I just end up with a kind of plait-gone-wrong.--- It sounds like the "twist, twist, cross" method. If that's what you wrote down, you'd probably assume the twists were using all 4 bobbins. Instead the twist is right-over-left only between the worker and the nearest outside passive. At the beginning of every movement, the worker is second from the edge (in other words, one edge passive and the center passive on one side of it and one edge passive on the other side of it). The worker and the adjacent edge passive go Twist, Twist, which puts the worker back where it was. Then the worker goes Cross with the middle passive, which puts the worker just inside the as-yet-unused edge passive. With tension on the outer passives, tension the worker gently. Now the worker twists twice with the as-yet-unused edge passive and crosses with the middle passive. The worker is back to being just inside the first-used outer passive. Tension again. Hope this helps, Robin P. Los Angeles, California, USA - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Lace pillow - Ren Faire
On Jun 1, 2008, at 13:13, Cindy Rusak wrote: Fellow Arachnes, I am demonstrating at a ren faire and would like to know what kind of lace pillow I should be using. I have picked out a couple of patterns from Le Pompe and Gekloppelte Reticella and would like to use a roller pillow but I don't know if they were used at that time. I'm aiming for the late 1500's/early 1600's. Even then, different pillows were used in different areas. There's a picture of an Italian bolster pillow, from 1603, on the Freehand Lace website: http://freehand.lace.googlepages.com/earlybobbinlace click on the link to the pillow (pdf file). I have a photo of an engraving (by Jan Saernredam, 1565-1607) with a pillow used, probably, in Amsterdam. That one looks to be a square, on a wedge-shaped base (higher in the back than in front) with a padded "bump" where, today, we'd put a roller. But no roller per-se. If you'd like, I can send the photo to you, off list. And there's the engraving on the front cover of the Nüw Modelbuch (Zurich,1561), which shows two lacemakers, and the pillow of the lacemaker in the forefront is clear enough to be copied. That, too, is more-or-less a square, but is uniform in thickness (a bit like a half of a bolster, flattened out). Here, it's the *stand* supporting the pillow which gives the pillow its tilt, not the base of the pillow. Again, if you don't have the book (or Danske Frihåndskniplinger, by Bodil Tornehave, which has the same engraving on its cover), I could send you a scan, off list. -- Tamara P Duvallhttp://t-n-lace.net/ Lexington, Virginia, USA (Formerly of Warsaw, Poland) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [lace] tallies and leaves
Hi Agnes, The tallies aren't different. The techniques are different but the end result is always the same - the threads follow the same path. I suppose some lacemakers find the continental technique easier because you shouldn't need to shorten any of the bobbins. I can make good tallies using the continental method, but I prefer the technique Christine Springett taught me. I think I enjoy a moment of mental rest while I take time to shorten the three passive bobbins. Sally Farmington - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Lace pillow - Ren Faire
Fellow Arachnes, I am demonstrating at a ren faire and would like to know what kind of lace pillow I should be using. I have picked out a couple of patterns from Le Pompe and Gekloppelte Reticella and would like to use a roller pillow but I don't know if they were used at that time. I'm aiming for the late 1500's/early 1600's. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, Cindy Rusak - in a warmer, sunnier Wisconsin - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Gravenmoerse - translation please
Wonderful! Many thanks! Sr Claire On Sun, Jun 1, 2008 at 5:14 PM, Sue Babbs <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Here it is - go to >>> http://www.webshots.com/homepage.html >>> Username: Arachne2003, Password: honiton >>> >> >> > - Original Message - From: "Sister Claire" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Cc: > Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 9:09 AM > Subject: Re: [lace] Gravenmoerse - translation please > > > > Hi Viv, >> >> I'm dying to see it, but I'm newbie. What is the URL of your album? >> >> > - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Gravenmoerse - translation please
Here it is - go to http://www.webshots.com/homepage.html Username: Arachne2003, Password: honiton - Original Message - From: "Sister Claire" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 9:09 AM Subject: Re: [lace] Gravenmoerse - translation please Hi Viv, I'm dying to see it, but I'm newbie. What is the URL of your album? - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Gravenmoerse - translation please
Hi Viv, I'm dying to see it, but I'm newbie. What is the URL of your album? Thanks! Sr Claire On Sun, Jun 1, 2008 at 5:01 PM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Dear All > Thank you for your helpful replies > I've just completed my first > effort from the 's Gravenmoerse book - Bookmark "Mei" > I've loaded onto my > album on "webshots" so you can see it if you're interested > > I've taken Ruth & > Pamela's advice and e-mailed "Bob-in" with a query on one of the pattern > markings that I couldn't quite work out! > > Bye for now > Viv > > - > To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: > unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] Gravenmoerse - translation please
Dear All Thank you for your helpful replies I've just completed my first effort from the 's Gravenmoerse book - Bookmark "Mei" I've loaded onto my album on "webshots" so you can see it if you're interested I've taken Ruth & Pamela's advice and e-mailed "Bob-in" with a query on one of the pattern markings that I couldn't quite work out! Bye for now Viv - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] tallies and leaves
Hello Brenda, Sue and everyone else. Thanks for the comments on continental way of making leaves and tallies. Probably just me being silly, but when I tried both methods in thick string, I could not tell why they were different. So I am off to my pilow and have another go. Agnes Boddington - dreary Elloughton UK www.sixpennybobbins.co.uk Brenda Paternoster wrote: Agnes I think you may be thinking of the continental method of crossing the two centre bobbins, two twists oon the left hand pair, cross the middle two then two twists on the right hand pair but whichever way you handle the bobbins it's down to tensioning the two outer passives correctly. Brenda - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] Re: Sandra Arnold
I am devastated, as Sandra was a very real friend, albeit we didn't see each other since she moved to Cyprus. When the Lacemakers' Circle needed an Editor for the magazine, when I was on the Committee, she was the first person I thought of, and was delighted when she accepted - and she was certainly a great asset in that office.I had first got to know her when I wrote about some of my (lace) escapades for the Lace Guild magazine, and we started corresponding then, so the acquaintanceship does go back quite a time. I shall certainly miss her eMails, and her witty chats, a great deal, and I know the wider world, including lace and guiding, will feel her loss greatly too My condolences go to her family, and to all who will miss her. Carol - in Suffolk UK . - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] FW: Petrol
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]: [EMAIL PROTECTED]: PetrolDate: Sun, 1 Jun 2008 11:12:26 +0100 Hello Everyone I`ve been reading about petrol costs America versus England.I liked the saving money tips, will give it a try.In England our petrol is £5 and over for a gallon of petrol, which roughly converts to nearly $10 a gallon.Please keep the money saving tips coming. Daphne Norfolk England Get 5GB of online storage for free! Get it Now! _ Great deals on almost anything at eBay.co.uk. Search, bid, find and win on eBay today! - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] ebay item
I agree with Clay - I think it's oilcloth (imitation leather). In the second from last picture (of the studs around the edge), I'd say that, under the stud which is above the right side of the box upright, you can see the weave of the canvas the "leather" coating is applied to. Admittedly this is the trim around the edge, but it matches exactly the rest of the covering. I also think the folds/creases in the covering look more like old oilcloth than old leather. With leather, I'd have expected some of the top finish to show wear along the creases (think of your leather handbags/purses), which it doesn't with this item. Jean in Poole, Dorset, UK - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
