[lace] Manos lace weight yarn

2011-12-18 Thread Lynne Cumming
 I am currently knitting a lace pattern shawl in this ( Manos pattern 
 annabelle) in natural colour. I started a year or so ago and then had to take 
 on a burst as daughter announced she was expecting next March. The yarn knits 
 up a treat and the pattern is lovely unless you drop a stitch in the lace 
 area. It is one of those make 3 in one row and then knit together so dropping 
 a stitch is a disaster. I did rip out and start again early on. Lace has had 
 to go by the board for a while. Hopefully I'm nearly there now. It's been 
 slow going as I'm struggling with my double vision but I saw the consultant 
 on Friday and hope for surgery in the New Year. 
I have the 'misfortune' to work next door to the yarn shop and the owner came 
in with the yarn samples and pattern to show me. Baby cardigans to make as soon 
as I get the shawl made.

Lynne
Baldock, North Herts, UK
where there is a nice rime of frost this morning and the thermometer reads -1C

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[lace] yarn used

2011-12-18 Thread Janice Blair
I was surprised to see it was just one variegated yarn, Titania.  I thought you 
had melded several shades together.  Now, which pattern did you use for the 
shawl?  Sorry if anyone has asked that before.
Janice


This is the yarn and colour I used for the lace shawl:
eBay item number 180691166996
Agnes Boddington
Elloughton UK
 Janice Blair
Crystal Lake, 50 miles northwest of Chicago, Illinois, USA
www.jblace.com
http://www.lacemakersofillinois.org

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Fw: [lace] yarn used

2011-12-18 Thread Agnes Boddington

Hi Janice
Sending this via lace, as your server is blocking me.


I bought the pattern and wool from Pollyjane Yarns: 
http://pollyjaneyarns.co.uk/shop/article_1108/Berry-River-Pattern-%28Torchon%29.html?shop_param=cid%3D118%26aid%3D1108%26

This link takes you straight to the pattern called Berry River.
I did have to redraw it completely, as it did not make any sense, and 
looked as though it had been cut and pasted wrongly.
It meant I had to rearrange the fillings too, plus I added a footside on 
both sides - using 50 pairs of bobbins in total.


Amazing though how the colours blended into this wonderful peacock colour.
Have a great Christmas and 2012.
Agnes


I was surprised to see it was just one variegated yarn, Titania.  I 
thought you
had melded several shades together.  Now, which pattern did you use for 
the

shawl?  Sorry if anyone has asked that before.
Janice


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RE: [lace] Manos lace weight yarn

2011-12-18 Thread mary carey
Hi All,

Treated my eldest daughter - lives in Windsor, Ontario - to some credit at a
local knitting store for her birthday and Christmas - and she is already
knitting a shawl.  She asked me questions I could not answer about knitting
from a graph.  Have worked from a graph on lots of occasions for crochet and
tatting but not knitting.  Yes, I knit but not from a graph.

Did tatting lessons with her once - we both had a copy to the same book and
was able to ask her to refer to a specific page, and it was before Skype too.

I hope to make a baby shawl for another daughter's baby (due April) but I will
dust off my knitting machine for that.  I also have a large spool of pink
cotton to try lace knitting - a machine has an amazing range of possibilities
if one cares to explore them.

If anyone can help with a simple explanation, please email me privately.

Mary Carey
Campbelltown, NSW, Australia

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RE: [lace] Manos lace weight yarn

2011-12-18 Thread Margery Allcock
Please could any replies come to the list?  The charts for knitting
are a mystery to me as well.
Margery.
 
margerybu...@o2.co.uk in North Herts, UK 
 
 

 -Original Message-
 From: owner-l...@arachne.com [mailto:owner-l...@arachne.com] 
 On Behalf Of mary carey
 Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2011 8:41 PM
 To: pigscanfl...@ntlworld.com; lace@arachne.com
 Subject: RE: [lace] Manos lace weight yarn
 
 Hi All,

snip
 
 Have worked from a graph on lots of occasions for crochet and
 tatting but not knitting.  Yes, I knit but not from a graph.

snip

 If anyone can help with a simple explanation, please email me 
 privately.
 
 Mary Carey
 Campbelltown, NSW, Australia
 

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RE: [lace] Manos lace weight yarn

2011-12-18 Thread Clay Blackwell
Dear Mary Carey -

I have knitted for decades, although I admit that my obcession with bobbin lace 
sharply cut into my knitting time for about ten years.  But between the time I 
stopped, and the time I started again, the knitting world had embraced graphs, 
and after following them (or diagrams) for bobbin lace for so long, knitting 
from them was second nature.

I would strongly encourage her to learn to work from graphs, as they are so 
much easier to follow (in my experience), and therefore you work faster.  I 
have a couple of pointers...

1.  You work the chart from the bottom up.  Row 1 is the first row you knit in 
the pattern, and it's read (and worked) from right to left.

2.  Just like other graphs, the symbols used for particular stitches may be 
different from one designer to another, so it's very important to study the 
chart that is always provided to identify what each symbol means.

3.  Since she is working a shawl, she would work the second row reading the 
graph from left to right...  although she is still working right to left.  I 
know this sounds confusing, but with a little practice, she'll get used to it.  
And, in a shawl, it is entirely possible that the pattern is the same from 
either direction, so she could check that to be sure.  

I'd also encourage her to find a friendly LKS... local knitting shop... where 
she can get lots of expert advice.  If she chances on the oddball place which 
is unfriendly because she didn't buy her supplies from them, then tell her to 
move on   they're not worth her custom.  A good shop will encourage and 
help her regardless, because they know she'll come back to them lfor the 
supplies for her next project!

I hope she finds joy and relaxation in her knitting!

Clay

Clay Blackwell
Lynchburg, VA. USA


mary carey d...@hotmail.com wrote:

Hi All,

Treated my eldest daughter - lives in Windsor, Ontario - to some credit at a
local knitting store for her birthday and Christmas - and she is already
knitting a shawl.  She asked me questions I could not answer about knitting
from a graph.  Have worked from a graph on lots of occasions for crochet and
tatting but not knitting.  Yes, I knit but not from a graph.

Did tatting lessons with her once - we both had a copy to the same book and
was able to ask her to refer to a specific page, and it was before Skype too.

I hope to make a baby shawl for another daughter's baby (due April) but I will
dust off my knitting machine for that.  I also have a large spool of pink
cotton to try lace knitting - a machine has an amazing range of possibilities
if one cares to explore them.

If anyone can help with a simple explanation, please email me privately.

Mary Carey
Campbelltown, NSW, Australia

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RE: [lace] Manos lace weight yarn

2011-12-18 Thread Clay Blackwell
In my note to Mary Carey, I failed to mention that the single best tool I 
have found to help with charts is a roll of sticky-tape made in see-through 
colors which is like post it notes in that the tape can be pulled up and 
repositioned numerous times.  I always use a strip of this to inderline the 
line of the graph that I am currently knitting.  It saves a world of headaches! 
 Usually the knitting shops carry this - it's a must-have for graphs.  It's 
also used by people who do counted cross-stitch, so try there if you LYS (LKS) 
doesn't have it.

Clay
Clay Blackwell
Lynchburg, VA. USA

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Re: [lace] Manos lace weight yarn

2011-12-18 Thread Sue Duckles
Hi All

My 'ten-pennorth' (Old Yorkshire Saying) is that when you are 'reading  
the chart' you have to imagine which way the yarn moves on each  
row right to left on odd rows, and left to right on even rows,  
just as Clay has stated.  Now the way I always remember it is that you  
always have to imagine the knitting with the smooth side facing you,  
now it's easy to work out which way the yarn moves Get my drift??

Sue in East Yorkshire
On 18 Dec 2011, at 21:20, Clay Blackwell wrote:


 I would strongly encourage her to learn to work from graphs, as they  
 are so much easier to follow (in my experience), and therefore you  
 work faster.  I have a couple of pointers...

 1.  You work the chart from the bottom up.  Row 1 is the first row  
 you knit in the pattern, and it's read (and worked) from right to  
 left.

 2.  Just like other graphs, the symbols used for particular stitches  
 may be different from one designer to another, so it's very  
 important to study the chart that is always provided to identify  
 what each symbol means.

 3.  Since she is working a shawl, she would work the second row  
 reading the graph from left to right...  although she is still  
 working right to left.  I know this sounds confusing, but with a  
 little practice, she'll get used to it.  And, in a shawl, it is  
 entirely possible that the pattern is the same from either  
 direction, so she could check that to be sure.

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Re: [lace] Manos lace weight yarn

2011-12-18 Thread Sue Babbs
I use one of the cross-stitch embroidery metal boards and magnets to follow 
the pattern when using a graph. The magnet covers up the row above the one I 
am working. This way I can see what stitches I should be working into what 
stiches on the row below.




Sue

sueba...@comcast.net
-Original Message- 
From: Clay Blackwell


In my note to Mary Carey, I failed to mention that the single best tool I 
have found to help with charts is a roll of sticky-tape made in see-through 
colors which is like post it notes in that the tape can be pulled up and 
repositioned numerous times.  I always use a strip of this to inderline the 
line of the graph that I am currently knitting. 


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Re: [lace] Manos lace weight yarn

2011-12-18 Thread bev walker
Hello Mary and everyone

To add to the good advice so far - especially the row-reading, I use
replaceable arrow 'stickies' to mark the row I'm on, or the stitch block if
I'm interrupted during a row. It is also a good idea to get used to reading
one's knitting against the graph to eliminate that feeling of flying blind.

Some use a 'lifeline,' a spare thread worked along with the knitting yarn
into the row temporarily, and do this every once in a while, then if a
mistake is found, one need only work back to the row with the lifeline
(there are good videos at YouTube that show this, better than I can
explain).

If the graph just seems to be a mess of symbols, use coloured felt pens to
mark at least some of the symbols until used to reading them.

If all else fails, the chart can be re-written in longhand to suit the
knitter although this can be time-consuming.
(I really like following knitting charts!)

Hope this might be of help.

On Sun, Dec 18, 2011 at 12:40 PM, mary carey d...@hotmail.com wrote:


 knitting a shawl.  She asked me questions I could not answer about knitting
 from a graph.  Have worked from a graph on lots of occasions for crochet a


-- 
Bev in Shirley BC, near Sooke on beautiful Vancouver Island, west coast of
Canada

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[lace] (lace) knitting from charts

2011-12-18 Thread Lyn Bailey
I am first a knitter, having learned to knit at 5.  Only began lacemaking at
the hoary age of 30. [no wisecracks please] With charts, I have found copying
the chart, making it large enough to be easy to read, is a great help.  I then
use a pencil and LIGHTLY shade out the row I’ve finished.  That way I can
see where I’ve been, and I know absolutely what row I am on, and there’s
nothing to fall off.  It’s easy to take with you.  Charts are definitely the
way to go.  At least for me.  I can see what it looks like.

Lyn in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, USA, where we had a dusting of snow last
night, and the weather, though sunny, is now seasonably cold.  At almost 7
p.m. it’s 30F, –1C.

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[lace] RE: Knitting charts (was: Manos lace weight yarn)

2011-12-18 Thread robinlace
I've only used charts for lace knitting and cables (fisherman knits).  Many of 
those patterns have no pattern work from the wrong side/return row, you just 
knit where there are knit stitches and purl above each existing purl stitch.  

Often lace charts that have just purls on the wrong side will omit the wrong 
side rows altogether, which means you don't have to worry about reading the 
chart backwards.  This is a good kind of pattern for beginning lace 
chart-users.  The chart will show odd-numbered rows (the numbers usually at the 
right end of the row) and will probably have a note that even-number rows are 
not shown. 

One quirk of knitted lace is that there may be different numbers of stitches on 
each (pattern) row, and this has to be worked into the grid of a chart.  A 
triangle shawl will always have at least one more increase (yarn-over) than the 
number of decreases in each row that is widening.  The extra increase(s) are 
usually near the edge, so the graph just widens.  However, sometimes there are 
increases deep within the pattern, and then the rows below may have a gray 
square to indicate there is no stitch there (until you get to the row with the 
increase).  It's not difficult to follow these, just pretend the gray squares 
are not there.  It's just a matter of getting used to it.  

If the number of stitches per row varies for just a few rows, the chart-maker 
may not use gray squares to fill in the .  But this means that the extra 
stitches stick out to the ends of the chart and the stitch in column ten of row 
X may not be exactly above the stitch shown in column ten of the row above or 
below it.  In other words, what look like columns of stitches in the chart are 
not in columns on the fabric.

Another quirk of some charts is when there is a repetitive set of stitches.  A 
stole may be, say 56 stitches wide and 506 rows long, but the chart may only 
show 16 stitches and 16 rows, with a box around the middle 10x10 stitches/rows. 
 This means that there are 3 rows before getting into the lace patterns, then 
500 rows of pattern (50 repeats of 10 rows), then 3 rows after the lace 
pattern.  In the central 500 rows, there are 3 stitches before the first 
10-stitch repeat, then do the stitches in the box (repeating the 10 stitches 4 
more times), then do the 3 stitches on the other side of the box to reach the 
end of the row.  Because some lace designs can have different numbers of 
stitches per row (discussed above), the box around one repeat may not be 
perfectly square--it might bulge in places to accommodate the extra stitches on 
some rowsl

I know this all sounds a bit confusing.  If someone has a chart that they're 
trying to learn from, post the information on Arachne and maybe one of us has 
the chart and can help with specific trouble spots.  I also recommend the book 
bt Barbara Walker, I believe it's called Charted Lace Patterns.  It's either 
#2 or #3 in the 4-volume treasury of knitting patterns by her.  The book is a 
great source of information on charting and how to read charts.

Robin P.
Los Angeles, California, USA
robinl...@socal.rr.com

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[lace] Knitting charts

2011-12-18 Thread Jean Nathan
Can't get on with them. When the instructions are written in long hand, such 
as *k1, p1, psso** repeat from * to ** 9 times. I get that in my head 
immediately and recite the instructions as I knit. Repeated sequences of 
rows are also easy to learn. I've tried, but I can't do that with a visual 
chart and I've found it take several times longer to knit a row because I 
have to check each square on the chart as I go. It's the same with crochet 
(particularly like doing Irish crochet), I recite what I do. Probably the 
way my brain works when it comes to knitting and crochet, although I have no 
trouble with charts for lace, cross stitch or beadwork.


Jean in Poole, Dorset, UK 


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