[lace] A question
Greetings all, Has anyone received their April issue of Lace Express? Jackie in cold and windy Brisbane - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] A question
Some time ago, I printed off a lovely pattern for a hair decoration. It was a copywirte of Aase Nilsson, 2002 with a pdf of the pattern and instructions, although not in english. By looking at the lovely picture of a made piece on the site I worked out that it was in half stitch, hers was done in black and gold, with gold beads which looked glorious. The whole thing looked like a flower on the back of the head. I finally got around to working the lace last week, but have a question about that, does Aase Nilson belong on arachne, or is there a way to contact her to ask her a question about the way the beads should hang? Any help would be great. Other than that I will do what seems right:-) to make it work for me. Sue T Dorset UK - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] A question
I don't do much tape lace so it's probably down to my inexperience but can anyone tell me why when I place the pin at the right hand side of the work I get a nicely formed loop but when I work the left hand side the loop is much smaller and not so well formed. I angle my pins and tension the same but there is still a difference between one side and the other. Hope this makes sense. Ann Yorkshire UK - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] A question
I'm wondering if there are any Lace RXP owners out there who actually use two of the features in it - the Fillings Library and the Auto Grid Match function? If you use either of these, could you please send me a personal email and let me know which one you use please? Thanks a lot! Ruth Budge (Sydney, Australia) thelacema...@optusnet.com.au - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent
[lace] A question
Hello Group: I'm coming out of lurkdom today because I have a question for anybody who would be so kind to answer. I've found the threads of messages that I have read, so far, to be so helpful to my lacemaking. I'm not feeling so much of being a newbie and perhaps I can add my two cents at another time. My question is this: I am working on a wedding garter for a friend who is marrying in Apr. I can't remember how long I should make it, for gathering? Is it 2 !/2 times the prospected length or 3 times. I've got double the length now and am not sure how much longer to make it. Thanks in advance, so much for your help, Rita Lloyd - located in sunny, but cool Northern CA, USA - Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site! - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] A question
In message <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Rita Lloyd <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes > I am working on a wedding garter for a friend who is >marrying in Apr. I can't remember how long I should make it, for gathering? >Is >it 2 !/2 times the prospected length or 3 times. I've got double the length >now >and am not sure how much longer to make it. I usually work on twice the leg measurement - taken at the point where it will be worn, but make sure the bride to be is standing, not sitting, as the muscles contract on standing! That said, some of the best advice I have seen is to take a length of ribbon and thread it through enough of the garter to gather up and see what degree of gather looks best - measure the amount you are gathering before and after, so that you can work out how much gathering needs to take place. Also, consider the style of dress to be worn - a fully gathered garter will not look good under a tight-fitting dress! For the elastic, I use the soft bra-strap type, which is slightly fuzzy on one side - this will grip to tights or stockings better. Measure off to half an inch less than the leg measurement, thread it through and overlap by half an inch before sewing the ends of the elastic securely - this should give enough grip without cutting the circulation. Thread the elastic through the garter, then thread ribbon over the top. Leave sufficient (about 9" each side) tails of the ribbon to tie into a bow, the ends can be trimmed once it is in place. Photograph it when you have finished - you might never see it again! -- Jane Partridge -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.7.3 - Release Date: 15/03/2005 - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] A question
Jackie Bowhey a écrit : Greetings all, Has anyone received their April issue of Lace Express? Jackie in cold and windy Brisbane - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hello, Not yet Sof from France with a hot sun - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] A question
Greetings I received mine on Saturday, just as I was going out to give a lace class - not had time to study it in detail yet. Andrea Lamble Cambridge - Uk - where we've been having a bit of a heatwave. From: sof <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Reply-To: sof <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: lace@arachne.com Subject: Re: [lace] A question Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2006 08:05:23 +0200 Jackie Bowhey a écrit : Greetings all, Has anyone received their April issue of Lace Express? Jackie in cold and windy Brisbane - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hello, Not yet Sof from France with a hot sun - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED] _ Be the first to hear what's new at MSN - sign up to our free newsletters! http://www.msn.co.uk/newsletters - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] A question
At 01:52 AM 8/6/2008, you wrote: I don't do much tape lace so it's probably down to my inexperience but can anyone tell me why when I place the pin at the right hand side of the work I get a nicely formed loop but when I work the left hand side the loop is much smaller and not so well formed. I angle my pins and tension the same but there is still a difference between one side and the other. Hope this makes sense. Ann Yorkshire UK Most probably, it is a tension issue. Since most people are decidedly one handed (left or right), it takes time to get your tension even on both sides. It sounds like, even though it is the left hand that suffers, you may be pulling harder on the right side and strangling the left. I would guess that you don't pull as hard on the left side, so the right side stays the way you intended. Conversely, you may actually be trying too hard when setting the left pin, but I am less inclined to think this could be the problem. I am assuming that you have a worker going back and forth across some cloth stitch and that you are not talking about making picots. If it is picots that are in trouble on the left, just try to relax the tension a bit. Patty - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] A question
On 15 Mar 2005, at 17:47, Jane Partridge wrote: For the elastic, I use the soft bra-strap type, which is slightly fuzzy on one side - this will grip to tights or stockings better. Measure off to half an inch less than the leg measurement, thread it through and overlap by half an inch before sewing the ends of the elastic securely - this should give enough grip without cutting the circulation. Thread the elastic through the garter, then thread ribbon over the top. Leave sufficient (about 9" each side) tails of the ribbon to tie into a bow, the ends can be trimmed once it is in place. A tip about elastic in a garter which I was given by Vivienne Walton was to use two lengths of narrow elastic (blue, silver or gold) and thread one length through the centre holes under and over, and the other length over and under through teh same holes, then when the gathers are evenly spaced they will stay that way and not all bunch up together. There's a picture of DD's garter which was gathered in this way at: http://tinyurl.com/4qca7 Brenda http://www.argonet.co.uk/users/paternoster/ - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] a question of my own...
Gentle Spiders, It's easy enough to *start* a cloth stitch trail going in opposite directions; you hang your passive pairs on a pin (you may want to loop them, to keep the unworked ones in place until you're ready for that side), "splayed", hang two worker pairs on the usual pin and start weaving in both directions. No sweat... :) But, how do you -- safely -- *end* a similiar situation? You don't have starting loops to sew into, nor, I should think, would you want them -- you want the trail to look as unbroken as possible. What you do have is a head-on collision of two sets of bobbins :) I managed, more or less OK, to keep the workers "in pattern", but, with the passives, I had to be really "creative" The final results are OK to look at, but but definitely not "in pattern", and not acceptable should I want to share (publish) the pattern. I'm not even entirely sure just what I'd done; I would certainly not be able to explain the process to anyone else... The situation is easy in part (each of the two trails consists of 2 -- cloth stitched - pprs and one wk pr), and difficult in part (can't hide too many knots behind 2 pprs )... I'd appreciate answers from anyone who's tackled a similiar situation. A quick look through Cook's "Practical Skills" and through Loehr's "400 Tricks" produced no results. And I haven't looked through Loehr's "Beginning of the End" because, frankly, I've never been able to make either head or tail (either the beginning, *or* the end ) of it, for all it has English translation where 400 tricks doesn't... I'll be starting on "take 2" of the same pattern tomorrow (different colour combination), so will come to the same knotty problem within a week or so. - Tamara P Duvall Lexington, Virginia, USA Formerly of Warsaw, Poland http://lorien.emufarm.org/~tpd/ - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] a question for the historians
Since I'm about to take our club's antique pillow apart I have a few questions. This pillow is about 16 inches long by 11inches long, a bolster. It is thought to have been from around 1830. One thing that has struck me is how light the pillow is. I made myself a similar size pillow over the hols (coffee cans wound with wool blanket) and mine is much heavier. So, besides straw, what else could have been used to stuff old pillows? Secondly, when did glazed card become popular for prickings? I think the answers may be able to date the pillow more accurately. Naturally I won't be taking the pillow itself to pieces, I had thought to tease a little of the stuffing out (with the help of a conservator) from the hole at the gathering on the ends. The pillow has been in a sealed case for the last couple of decades and finding someone to help dismantle it has been difficult. Sharon on the snowy half of Vancouver Island -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.6.10 - Release Date: 1/10/05 - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] A question to Arachnes in Germany
One of my lace making friends lives in Barry in South Wales. One day earlier this year she was in a local craft shop and heard another customer asking for lace books, which the shop didn't sell. She introduced herself and found out that this was an English lady who lives in Germany, visiting Barry to look after a sick friend or relative. She was trying to do her lace but needed a book to help her. My friend lent her a book, which was duly returned before she went back to Germany. A little later a package with a pair of bobbins arrived as a thank you, but there was no address included so my friend has been unable to let her know they arrived safely, and to thank her for them. I know that it is very unlikely that anyone who reads arachne also knows of this lady (I don't even have a name for her), but if you do, please could you pass on the message to her. My friend doesn't believe how powerful arachne is, but I am never surprised by what we can do! Many thanks Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[lace] a question, mostly for the designers
I recently put together some elements of lace pattern to make a hanky edge and am about 1/3 through working it. It is working up quite pretty, rather than just OK, so that is nice to see. I made up a corner pattern which is one quarter of the pattern, printed it off twice and thats coming on fine, by the time all the pins are away from the join, I can take it off and they both get used twice. What I have found is that because I have flipped the pattern strip to fit at the corner, I have the working lines going in opposite directions, therefore when I get to the centre side join I found the change. I have ignored those lines and worked them all the same, so guess I need to learn not to flip the pattern in that way, for the future. Also, having got this far with my hanky I am thinking about working a garter, this time the complete width and in nice crisp cotton, using the shirring elastic I know some of you use, but wondered if between you all there are some really favourite elements you always use, or do you choose to do them all differently (obviously that last question for those who have done more than one). At the moment I am thinking of what I might put in before I try putting some bits together on the program. I am bound to have missed something but may remember later. Sue T Dorset, UK Bobbin Lace and Glass engravings http://www.hurwitzend.co.uk - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] a question of my own...
This is how most of my Bucks point motifs in wire end, and I like it that way I'm usually working with the wrong side up, so my suggestion assumes that orientation; if you work with the right side up (as I seem to recall you do, Tamara) you might finish off everything but the trails, cut those bobbins off leaving a reasonable length of end, then turn the piece over to do the finishing of the trails. I leave the last pass with one of the two workers undone, so the workers are on different sides of the trail, and I lay the passives back over the part of the trail they already worked, so there is an open gap where I am about to make the join. This may temporarily distort the trails, but as I work the join everything smooths out. I work my last turn on the edge of the trail and take the right hand thread of the worker pair and lay it across the gap, perpendicular to the trail. I take the closest passive from each side of the trail and cross them above the worker thread, so they are continuing straight in the direction they were supposed to go, and tension them to keep the trail edge smooth. Then I bring the left-hand worker thread across the gap, placing it to the right of the right-hand worker thread, and move the right-hand worker thread down to the left below the pile of passives on that side. Again, I cross the next passive from each pile and tension. Then I move the worker thread that is lying on the left side back across the join, over the other worker thread as well as the newly crossed pair of passives, and bring the other worker thread down to the left side. (The workers are behaving more like a pair of twisted gimps than like cloth stitch workers, if this helps you understand what I'm doing!) I continue like this across--like you, I'm usually handling four passives--until all the passives have been crossed and tensioned. By now the trail should be smooth and flat, with the ends of the passives lying above the opposite part of the trail on each side of the join. Knot the two worker pairs together and use a needle to take each one of the four threads through the twisting join to lie next to a passive. Then do overhand knots with the passives, in their original pairs (and including any worker that has been added in during the previous step), close up against the join. The overhand knots hold the passives securely because there is a thread from the twisted join between each passive on a side. Cut the ends off fairly close to the knots. With the wire work, of course, I just cut the wires off without knotting them, or fold them up to make a bail for the motif/pendant to hang from. The result is smooth, secure, and unobtrusive. >From the underside the finished trail looks sort of like this: ___|___ __o|o__ ___|___ __o|o__ where the underlines show the passives of the trail, the little o's are the knots, and the | shows the location of the worker pair making its last twisted pass. Hope this helps. If my verbal description is total nonsense to you I'll try e-mailing you a diagram instead, Tamara. Sue in Raleigh, NC where it *didn't* snow--or even ice, thank goodness! At 09:45 PM 12/7/2003 -0500, Tamara wrote: >Gentle Spiders, > >It's easy enough to *start* a cloth stitch trail going in opposite >directions; you hang your passive pairs on a pin (you may want to loop >them, to keep the unworked ones in place until you're ready for that >side), "splayed", hang two worker pairs on the usual pin and start >weaving in both directions. No sweat... :) > >But, how do you -- safely -- *end* a similiar situation? > >You don't have starting loops to sew into, nor, I should think, would >you want them -- you want the trail to look as unbroken as possible. >What you do have is a head-on collision of two sets of bobbins :) > >I managed, more or less OK, to keep the workers "in pattern", but, with >the passives, I had to be really "creative" The final results are >OK to look at, but but definitely not "in pattern", and not acceptable >should I want to share (publish) the pattern. I'm not even entirely >sure just what I'd done; I would certainly not be able to explain the >process to anyone else... > >The situation is easy in part (each of the two trails consists of 2 -- >cloth stitched - pprs and one wk pr), and difficult in part (can't hide >too many knots behind 2 pprs )... > >I'd appreciate answers from anyone who's tackled a similiar situation. > Susan Lambiris Raleigh, NC [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
re: [lace] a question of my own..
Hi everyone and Tamara There is a way to join trails - I won't try to describe it in detail because I haven't tried it, but in theory you work the last few rows with threads doubled back, a new set of bobbins looped through them (old bobbins thrown out, new bobbins, looped through old threads, old threads still in use) and the bobbins of the adjoining trail looped in at the last row. The thread ends of the first trail can be cut close to the weaving, because they have been doubled (and so end perhaps an inch or less, away from the 'join')- the ends of the adjoining trail are sewn into the cloth work (with needle, not a BL 'sewing') It is probably as fiddly to do as it is to describe. I saw this in diagram at The Lace Express website - sadly the diagrams are no longer there. I rather think there might be a diagram in Russische (sp?) Kant (more's the pity - I sold my copy). I would think for sure there would be something in Beginning to End. good luck. -- bye for now Bev in Sooke, BC (west coast of Canada) Cdn. floral bobbins http://www.victoria.tc.ca/~wt912 - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [lace] a question, mostly for the designers
Hi Sue, Are you talking about designing with Lace R-XP? If so, do you have Ruth's book? Page 24-25 will answer your questions re turning the corner :) (Discovered this at a workshop recently...it really works! ) Warm regards, Laura Forrester @>++ laura_ros...@yahoo.com http://lauraslace.blogspot.com/ --- On Sat, 4/4/09, Sue wrote: From: Sue Subject: [lace] a question, mostly for the designers To: "Arachne" Received: Saturday, 4 April, 2009, 3:14 AM I recently put together some elements of lace pattern to make a hanky edge and am about 1/3 through working it. It is working up quite pretty, rather than just OK, so that is nice to see. I made up a corner pattern which is one quarter of the pattern, printed it off twice and thats coming on fine, by the time all the pins are away from the join, I can take it off and they both get used twice. What I have found is that because I have flipped the pattern strip to fit at the corner, I have the working lines going in opposite directions, therefore when I get to the centre side join I found the change. I have ignored those lines and worked them all the same, so guess I need to learn not to flip the pattern in that way, for the future. Also, having got this far with my hanky I am thinking about working a garter, this time the complete width and in nice crisp cotton, using the shirring elastic I know some of you use, but wondered if between you all there are some really favourite elements you always use, or do you choose to do them all differently (obviously that last question for those who have done more than one). At the moment I am thinking of what I might put in before I try putting some bits together on the program. I am bound to have missed something but may remember later. Sue T Dorset, UK Bobbin Lace and Glass engravings http://www.hurwitzend.co.uk - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com The new Internet Explorer 8 optimised for Yahoo!7: Faster, Safer, Easier. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] a question, mostly for the designers
Hello Sue What I have found is that because I have flipped the pattern strip to fit at the corner, I have the working lines going in opposite directions, therefore when I get to the centre side join I found the change. I have ignored those lines and worked them all the same, so guess I need to learn not to flip the pattern in that way, for the future. You need to rotate the pattern rather than flip it over to avoid that problem. Alternatively you could flip it before you mark in the worker lines, Also, having got this far with my hanky I am thinking about working a garter, this time the complete width and in nice crisp cotton, using the shirring elastic I know some of you use, but wondered if between you all there are some really favourite elements you always use, or do you choose to do them all differently (obviously that last question for those who have done more than one). At the moment I am thinking of what I might put in before I try putting some bits together on the program. Are you asking do we use spiders, or roseground, or leaves or gimps or halfstitch blocks etc etc? I use them all. But not all in the same piece! If you are intending to work in just white, or any other plain colour, you need to introduce a variety of textures by using a variety of different stitches. If you are planning to use several colours then the colour itself makes pattern and you need less variety in the stitches used. The best way to get to grips with designing is to look at other people's patterns. Look at how the different fans work, try substituting rose ground for spiders (sometimes it will work, sometimes you end up with a row of plain ground). Count the pinholes to see why. Ask yourself why the designer has done something slightly different. The more you look at patterns the better you will understand them and the more confident you will get. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] a question, mostly for the designers
Thanks Brenda, I will have to practise the rotating. With regards to the garter, I guess it is a question of wondering what shapes you like to put into a sentimental keepsake like this, like hearts or anything else I cant think of at the moment. I am thinking of using white, but with maybe a coloured gimp outline when it fits the bill. I do play with patterns adding roseground, honeycomb, fans and spiders etc. I have also tried out some of the lessor used ones from Cook and Stott building lace patterns book, just some are obviously best suited to certain patterns than others. I am a little conservative with my colour choices although have not found a nice colour blue thread or other colours the right size to go with my white threads. Although having seen Rhiannons garter and one or two others they certainly excite and encourage us to try other colours. Maybe I need to check out the supply sites some more. I want my pieces to look nicely balanced and with enough pattern but not sooo terribly fussy it looks over the top. Asking my questions and reading the replies often helps clear my thinking, so thank you for your time and experience. Sue T Dorset, UK Bobbin Lace and Glass engravings http://www.hurwitzend.co.uk Hello Sue What I have found is that because I have flipped the pattern strip to fit at the corner, I have the working lines going in opposite directions, therefore when I get to the centre side join I found the change. I have ignored those lines and worked them all the same, so guess I need to learn not to flip the pattern in that way, for the future. > You need to rotate the pattern rather than flip it over to avoid that problem. Alternatively you could flip it before you mark in the worker lines, Also, having got this far with my hanky I am thinking about working a garter, this time the complete width and in nice crisp cotton, using the shirring elastic I know some of you use, but wondered if between you all there are some really favourite elements you always use, or do you choose to do them all differently (obviously that last question for those who have done more than one). At the moment I am thinking of what I might put in before I try putting some bits together on the program.> Are you asking do we use spiders, or roseground, or leaves or gimps or halfstitch blocks etc etc? I use them all. But not all in the same piece! If you are intending to work in just white, or any other plain colour, you need to introduce a variety of textures by using a variety of different stitches. If you are planning to use several colours then the colour itself makes pattern and you need less variety in the stitches used. The best way to get to grips with designing is to look at other people's patterns. Look at how the different fans work, try substituting rose ground for spiders (sometimes it will work, sometimes you end up with a row of plain ground). Count the pinholes to see why. Ask yourself why the designer has done something slightly different. The more you look at patterns the better you will understand them and the more confident you will get. Brenda in Allhallows, Kent http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/index.html - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] a question, mostly for the designers
Hello Sue, I am afraid I couldn't explain it good enough but I give it a try. In such cases as you describe I totade the pattern or sometimes I make a print out of both sides and put them together. But the last depends on the pattern. At the moment I am thinking of what I might put in What do you mine by this? About the elements you want to use? In Torchon you have the choice of so many different things but be careful don't use too much on one pattern. Some elements have for example six pin points others only four, therefor you can't mix all of them at the same piece of lace. And using colours think that the colour itself is a sort of patter before I try putting some bits together on the program. Are you speaking of a Puter-programm? I am bound to have missed something but may remember later. Than you send this question later. Good luck and lots of fun Ilske - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
RE: [lace] a question, mostly for the designers
But you still have to watch the direction of the working lines on flipped pieces, Laura. Ruth thelacema...@optusnet.com.au -Original Message- From: owner-l...@arachne.com [mailto:owner-l...@arachne.com] On Behalf Of laura forrester Sent: Saturday, 4 April 2009 9:21 PM To: Sue Cc: spiders Subject: Re: [lace] a question, mostly for the designers Hi Sue, Are you talking about designing with Lace R-XP? If so, do you have Ruth's book? Page 24-25 will answer your questions re turning the corner :) (Discovered this at a workshop recently...it really works! ) Warm regards, Laura Forrester @>++ laura_ros...@yahoo.com http://lauraslace.blogspot.com/ --- On Sat, 4/4/09, Sue wrote: From: Sue Subject: [lace] a question, mostly for the designers To: "Arachne" Received: Saturday, 4 April, 2009, 3:14 AM I recently put together some elements of lace pattern to make a hanky edge and am about 1/3 through working it - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] A question cutting of handmade lace lengths
Now this may seem a strange question for you all, but, still I would like to know. How is handmade bobbin lace cut in lengths for dressmaking? Here is what I have in mind. I found a place which will hand make lengths of 11 yards of lace for me for my Elizabethan dress I am making, BUT, I need to convert this 11 yards into lengths that are useable without destroying the lace. Any suggestions other than making it myself to length? Many thanks in advance for your ideas, and experiences. Ysandra - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
