[lace] Correction and update on Devon Laces (Brian Lemin)

[Brian Lemin]

Dear All,

Whilst the topic of Devon lace is described by some as being 
complicated, I have, with the help of Carol MacFadzean of the Devon Lace 
Teachers Group, compiled a list that could be of help to the casual 
reader.The information has also cleared up the story of the Honiton 
stage coach origin of the term “Honiton Lace”

Detailed information of Devon Laces can be found on Carols web page…

http://www.devonlaceteachers.co.uk/devon-laces.html

[Laces Made in Devon and their History]

Firstly let us clear up the various interpretations of what “Honiton 
Lace” is. Honiton lace is not a generic term for all the 7 Devon Laces, 
but for the style of lace made at Honiton and all over the region, 
including the major players such as Woodbury, Ottery St Mary, 
Sidmouth/Sidbury, Exmouth, Beer etc.  The lace made in these 
villages/towns is known as Honiton lace. The Exeter lace, that has 
appeared in my previous lists, is a style invented by Mrs Treadwin, but 
is within the Honiton lace area; it is not a style on its own account.

This still leaves my list with Devon being the source of seven 
identifiable varieties of lace, these being:
Branscombe Point,

Devon Trolly,

Honiton lace,

Devonia,

ColytonChromatic,

Woodbury Greek and

Kerswell lace.


I Hope this clarifies matters and warns you that a non lace maker is not 
to be trusted with his interpretations of "lace Matters"!! smile.


Phew, I hope I have got it right this time!

Happy Christmas and New Year  (Gotta new (well old) car so I am a happy 
"Vegemite") See your local Australian for and interpretation of this 
term "Happy Vegemite"

ps Marmite is best!  For sure I will lose my Citizenship for that PS!

-- 
Brian. (Who lives in Awabakal Country)
Cooranbong. Australia

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Re: [lace] CORRECTION: Kopek/Whirlpool filling is a Woven Spider's Web

[Malvary Cole]

Woven spiders web is an embroidery term where  a single thread is either 
woven under and over all the way around, or alternatively goes forward under 
two bars then doubles back  to go back over the one it just came under and 
the next one ie two bars forward, one back back all the time, with all the 
stitches going in the same direction.  This gives ridges on the side where 
you are doubling back.  This is an embroidery term as distinct from a lace 
making term.


Clare was asking about bobbin lace kopeks/whirlpool fillings (Bridget Cook's 
description).  The bobbin lace kopeks are worked with sewn weaving at every 
bar using two threads at a time, (so both sides look the same) and allowing 
the attractive coloured rings or wedges.  Yes, kopeks can be made in two 
colours creating stripes and patterns.  Superficially similar, they are 
worked in a completely different way.


Kopek is what they are called in Russian lace which is where they are used 
the most.


Many stitches have different names, one of the most basic being cloth stitch 
and whole stitch.  None of them is wrong, just different depending on where 
you are learning or what book you use.


I don’t agree that it is a CORRECTION = changing the heading to Woven 
spiders Web is a not a correction, it is just another name for it and a 
different method.  And we know very well that the same thing is called by 
various names in different places.  None of them is wrong or needs to be 
corrected in my opinion.


Malvary in Ottawa where we have a bright sunny day, albeit cold at the 
moment.  It was up to +3c yesterday, but -7c this morning.


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[lace] CORRECTION: Kopek/Whirlpool filling is a Woven Spider's Web

[Jeri Ames]

Please tell us where the Kopek/Whirlpool name originated - (Author and Book
Title, or Teacher).
A sampler of my making dated 1974 contains the stitch called Woven Spider's
Web.  It is a much older stitch than that. Those of you who own Erica
Wilson's 1973 big orange - Embroidery Book - will find the instructions on
page 98.  I'm quoting a book by a graduate of the Royal School of Needlework
in London, because the correspondence we have read - about Kopek/Whirlpool -
seems to originate in England.
Inventing new names for well-established stitches confuses people concerned
with passing on history that is as accurate as possible.  Inventing will
probably confuse researchers of the future, and I believe young stitchers
should learn from those of us who have wielded needles for decades.
Would very much appreciate if others would pick up the slack and participate,
instead of remaining silent.  Please - share if you've been exposed to lace
and embroidery experts.  This happens to be a stitch made with a threaded
needle, with the eye end of the needle used to weave.  It can be worked
in-the-air (lace) or anchored on a pre-existing foundation fabric
(embroidery).

Arachne translates to spider (and the Greek Goddess of that name).  All
reading Lace@arachne should know about woven and whipped spider's webs because
of this ancient history connected to our name.
Jeri Ames in MaineLace and Embroidery Resource Center
In a message dated 2/21/2019 9:31:01 AM Eastern Standard Time:

Hi Fellow Arachnids, Thank you for posting the photos, Clare. I can now see
that both Kopek (a
small Russian coin) and whirlpool fillings are what we would call a Russian
spider.  Joepie, in overcast but relatively warm Sussex, UK


From: Clare Lewis
Sent: 20 February 2019 23:58
To: J R
Cc: Arachne Reply
Subject: Re: [lace] Kopek/Whirlpool filling

 I discovered that a kopek is a heck of a lot of
different things in
different languages when I tried to Google for an answer to my question!

Anyway, thanks in no small part to a very patient Sue Babbs I have now
uploaded three photos to the Arachne Flickr page showing the top and
underside of a kopek filling. Clare L

Photo site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/

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[lace] correction-Soviet Weekly, not the Daily Worker

[Devon Thein]

I mistated the source of the article on Russian lacemaking. It was
Soviet Weekly, not the Daily Worker.
Devon

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[lace] Polish lace - Correction: Kalocsa is Hungarian, not Polish

[Jeriames]

Dear Susan,

Kalocsa is a place in Hungary where they have traditionally made brightly
colored floral embroidery.  What is of interest to us is that the
foundation under that embroidery is lacy, and white.  The lacy  parts were
originally
stitched by hand, but when the Singer treadle  machines came into use, they
were quickly adopted to speed the work.  There  is a wonderful
English-language book that I reviewed in 2015 "Treasures of  Kalocsa" by Kati
Fejér.

I usually print my reviews and put in the books, and also found a personal
letter from you, Susan, in response to that review.  It was dated
September 14, 2015, and also went to Arachne.  I'll not say more here,
because
anyone interested can search for it by the book title, or if you want to  read
over 20 entries, search by just Kalocsa:

http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html

Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center


In a message dated 9/24/2016 10:03:12 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
hottl...@neo.rr.com writes:

Thank  you Blanche!  I've printed out your info for future use.  It's
totally
amazing that lace was made in so many areas as a social relief  program.
Thanks also for the references on Polish traditional dress ... I  found
beautiful whitework on blouses & aprons but no bobbin lace.  I  did find some
interesting pieces that appear to be needle lace in  the
Silesia area.  The lace covered the forehead & appeared to be  tucked under
the
edges of a colorful babushka (is there a different term in  Polish?) because
the hair was completely covered.  Plus loads of  brightly colored embroidery
that I recognize from EGA--the Kalocsa (sp??)  type.

In the meantime, another Arachnean has forwarded a clear photo of  lace from
Bobowa so I will attempt to recreate the pattern.  Susan  Hottle USA


On Sep 24, 2016, at  3:58 AM, B Krbechek  wrote:

The Lace  School Movement occurred in the late XIX th century into the XXth
It was  early in Ireland, an attempt to help women financially during the
difficult  times of the potato famine, and spread world wide.

Bobowa  was one of the villages involved in the Lace School Movement
out of  Vienna.

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[lace] CORRECTION Status of Lady Evelyn's Needlework Collection

[Jeriames]

Dear Lacemakers and Lace  CollectorsCORRECTION
 
It has been pointed out to me by Jean Leader that there are 2  Blair 
Castles in Scotland.  The second being in Ayrshire, south of  Glasgow!  That is 
the castle and contents that were sold.  There ought  to be a law!  Whew!  
That is good news.  
 
Apparently, the needlework is safe in Perthshire.  You should know I  tried 
to verify this with my tour leader, Marion, on March 30.   She wrote to her 
Scottish friend, an embroidery expert.  And, that was  not caught by the 
Scottish embroidery expert.  I've been sitting on the  story for over a month, 
just in case more info would become available.  It  did not.  
 
I saw no mail (again) from Arachne today, and tried to stir the pot.   It 
was most successful.  The pot boiled over, and over again!!  
 
Sorry all.  Have you awakened?  Write to Arachne.  Keep it  active.
 
And, to the person who saw no lace in Perthshire's Blair  Castle:  The 
collection is kept under wraps and away from  destructive elements.  You have 
to 
write ahead and make an appointment  to see it.  The "British Arms" piece 
is displayed in the last room of the  tour, just before you enter the gift 
shop.  Not with any other  textiles.  Last time I saw it, it was just sitting 
there in a glass  case on a table top.
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] correction

[Sue]

I Apologise, I should have proof read, but was being called away to attend 
something, she has a Weak hand, not a week hand, LOL.Sorry.

Sue T

I have been helping my next door neighbour to learn to make lace.   I told
her I will teach her what I can and anything she doesn't understand to say
so as I can always find another way to show her or to tell her.  Because she
has one week hand we are finding ways to make it all work for her and

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[lace] Correction

[scotlace]

I'm trying to connect through Google not aol.


Patricia in Wales

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[lace] Correction: White-Embroidered Costume Accessories by Heather Toomer

[Jeriames]

Nov. 14 Correction - for improved readability of Nov. 13  book review.

White-embroidered costume accessories - the 1790s to 1840s.
By Heather Toomer, drawings and patterns by Elspeth Reed.
Published by Heather Toomer Antique Lace, 2013, paper cover.
198 pages, cover price £ 19.75, ISBN 978-0-9542730-3-3.
Ordering info in separate memo.  Book has limited distribution.

To put this book in context, Jane Austen (author) lived from  1775-1817.
Princess Victoria was born in 1819 and became Queen in  1837.  Both had
associations with lace.

This is a sequel to Embroidered with white - the 18th century fashion for
Dresden lace and other whiteworked accessories, 2008 (Arachne review Aug.
27,  2009).  As before, this is original research resulting in detailed
text.  Drawings and patterns by Elspeth Reed are admirable.  Heather's
photographs are presented for each item discussed.  Color fashion prints  are
lovely, and they prove depicting fashions on very slender mannequins is not  a
new phenomenon!

Collectors will find identification of unusually-shaped accessories
invaluable.  Costumers receive guidance for making accurate  recreations.
Historians acquire expanded knowledge.  Then, there are  the lovers of all
things
LACE.  They may require more detailed information  about lace made during
this period for this purpose, and may need to see exactly  how the laces were
attached to accessories.

Both right and wrong sides of white embroidery are sometimes shown, which
helps determine how a stitch was made.  Embroidery and lace travel together
through the pages.

Austen could identify a buffon, pelerine, canezou, schall, or  pelisse.
Can you?  Have you seen a shirt handkerchief?  These  handkerchiefs had
quite a different purpose and shape than pocket  handkerchiefs; dress
kerchiefs
had a different purpose and shape than today's  head coverings.  The
distinctions are interesting.

Have you ever seen a muslin accessory with a button-holed edge to which a
bobbin-made picot edging has been attached?  Effective.   Delicate.  Several
are shown in photographs.

Much is to be said for design inspiration.  The little fancy apron  pockets
on page 60 reminded this reviewer of patterns of cuffs, and some  collars,
illustrated by Elspeth Reed.  Then came the thought that this  would be an
interesting subject for a Lace Guild contest - pockets inspired by  historic
cuff and collar shapes!

Many designs are suitable for lace or muslin embroidery (or both) on
today's special occasion accessories.

For more information about muslin, see reviewer's Jan. 19, 2013 review of
Muslin at
http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html

Purchasing information for Heather Toomer's self-published
limited-distribution book is in a separate memo mailed Nov. 13, 2013.

Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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[lace] Correction?!

[Sandi Woods]

On 14th October Brenda replied to a query from a previous posting from Viv
Dewar.
Brenda credits me with the words that are actually sections from Viv's
original enquiry. In my reply to Viv's query over the threads I use, or have
suggested as possible alternatives, I repeated the original query in its
entirety in order that anyone else with an interest in my work might fully
understand my personal considerations/thoughts.
The words quoted in Brenda's comprehensive answer are Viv's - not mine!
I hope this rectifies any confusion that may occur.
Sandi

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[lace] Correction

[LaceAnneDrew2]

Sorry, I gave the wrong info.

For 1911 read 1894 and for Swedish lacemakers ...Venice.
I should have known.
The pillows are nothing like the swedish pillows

Anne Drew

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[lace] correction/email for Rowe/Battle of Britain panels

[Dmt11home]

I mistyped Howe for Rowe. Does anyone have an e-mail for him, or must I rely 
on snail mail?
Devon

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