I cant let the Milanese discussion end without a word about my favorite
aspect of early Milanese: the wonderful whimsical three dimensional effects.
I have not found these to appear in such profusion and creativity in bobbin
laces that I have found from other countries besides Italy.
Santina Levey mentions them briefly on pages 33-34 of her Lace, A History:
wheatears were now used extensively as were other three dimensional effects.
A witty representation of other fabrics is achieved by these means, where fur,
knitted and woven fabrics, buttons and lace are all represented
These effects deserve much more than such a passing reference.
NOTE: figure 202 in Leveys book also has fabulous three dimensional effects.
THIS PIECE IS IN THE CLEVELAND MUSEUM. It was, and should still be available
for study. (Note to anyone in driving distance of Cleveland -- ASK to see
this pieces. It is amazing.
There are also lots of Milaese pieces with three-dimensional effects in the
Art Institute of Chicago. Ask to see those.
Also a couple of really interesting 3-dimensional Milanese pieces in the Sweet
Briar College museum (anyone attending the lace retreat at Sweet Briar should
be familiar with these pieces. A flounce matching the Sweet Briar Milanese
cuffs is in the Ikle Collection in St. Gallen Switzerland.)
A wonderful, but somewhat ragged and worn figural piece with 3-d effects was
sold on ebay in the last year (unfortunately way beyond my budget).
I agree with Lorelei that it is unfortunate that we may never know exactly
what was made where and when. Common sense tells us there had to have been a
time, when bobbin lace was just being invented, when there were no rules.
Techniques were being invented to produce the designs someone envisioned.
They used what techniques would work to do that.
Rules only are really needed when lace is being produced by an industry
where uniformity in pieces produced by many people is important. When
lacemakers are making lace for their own pleasure, where do rules fit in?
I would hope someone takes up the challenge of developing a lacemaking class
in 3-dimensional Milanese. That could be great fun!
Happy lacemaking!
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