[lace] More Milanese

[Elizabeth Kurella]

I can’t let the Milanese discussion end without a word about my favorite
aspect of early Milanese:  the wonderful whimsical three dimensional effects.

I have not found these to appear in such profusion and creativity in bobbin
laces that I have found from other countries besides Italy.

Santina Levey mentions them briefly on pages 33-34 of her “Lace, A History”:
“wheatears were now used extensively as were other three dimensional effects.
A witty representation of other fabrics is achieved by these means, where fur,
knitted and woven fabrics, buttons and lace are all represented”

These effects deserve much more than such a passing reference.

NOTE:  figure 202 in Levey’s book also has fabulous three dimensional effects.
THIS PIECE IS IN THE CLEVELAND MUSEUM.  It was, and should still be available
for study.  (Note to anyone in driving distance of Cleveland -- ASK to see
this pieces.  It is amazing.

There are also lots of Milaese pieces with three-dimensional effects in the
Art Institute of Chicago.  Ask to see those.

Also a couple of really interesting 3-dimensional Milanese pieces in the Sweet
Briar College museum (anyone attending the lace retreat at Sweet Briar should
be familiar with these pieces.  A flounce matching the Sweet Briar Milanese
cuffs is in the Ikle Collection in St. Gallen Switzerland.)

A wonderful, but somewhat ragged and worn figural piece with 3-d effects was
sold on ebay  in the last year (unfortunately way beyond my budget).

I agree with Lorelei that it is unfortunate that we may never know exactly
what was made where and when.  Common sense tells us there had to have been a
time, when bobbin lace was just being invented, when there were no rules.
Techniques were being invented to produce the designs someone envisioned.
They used what techniques would work to do that.

“Rules” only are really needed when lace is being produced by an industry
where uniformity in pieces produced by many people is important.  When
lacemakers are making lace for their own pleasure, where do rules fit in?

I would hope someone takes up the challenge of developing a lacemaking class
in 3-dimensional Milanese.  That could be great fun!

Happy lacemaking!

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[lace] More Milanese!

[Sandi Woods]

I really enjoyed reading Elizabeth Kurella's piece about 3-dimensional
Milanese lace - I saw a few examples of it some years ago (I think it might
have been in Como?) and found it fascinating.
Over the years since then, those memories have inspired me to work
3-dimensionally, when appropriate, in some of my own designs. ('Les Fees
Vertes' and 'The Bamboo Grove' are small collections where some of them
feature.) I'm even working a Milanese piece with 3-D at the moment...
When I go to Sweet Briar in June this year, I shall be teaching 3-D in
Milanese to at least one person there, though they don't yet realise it -
however, they do now! (Aaargghhh, panic...It's headless chicken time!)
I shall certainly be looking out for the 3-D examples in the Sweet Briar
College collection! Thank you so much Elizabeth, for mentioning them. How
exciting!
Sandi

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