Re: [lace] pattern and thread size

2011-08-11 Thread Sue

Thank you Brenda and Jane,
I just printed it off bigger, following your suggestions.  As it was a 
pretty small piece, the larger print still looks like it will work and comes 
up a bit like a large church window which was what I was looking for and I 
think will still fit inside one of those cards with a circular appeture.


I do have Edition 5, but my old maths skills have sadly deserted me, so 
thank you both for coming to my assistance, g.
Brenda, When you talk about the grid size between footedge and grid, I 
understand perfectly on a straight piece, how do I go about checking that on 
a bucks circular pattern?  Looking at this I can see along the diagonal 
(which I am guessing is the grid, and straight across the piece which has a 
slightly wider gape.  Obviously with the different angle of bucks verses the 
torchon examples in the book, its not so obvious to my poor little tired 
brain, g.

Many thanks,
Sue t
Dorset UK


Hi Sue

If you have one of the later editions of Threads for Lace have a look at the 
thread wraps per space - page 8 in Ed5.


The finer the thread the more leeway you have in the number of wraps/cm you 
have, but.
for a Bucks (point ground) pattern using a 58 w/cm thread (slightly finer 
than Brok 100/2) the ideal space between footedge pinholes is 1.8mm.
For a 40 w/cm thread (slightly finer than Egyptian 60/2) it's 2.5mm  which 
is quite a bit bigger.


100% / 1.8 x 2.5 = 138.88  so you need to increase your pattern by 139% 
which is a lot.   A4 - A3 increase is 141% which is only marginally bigger.


Brenda

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Re: [lace] pattern and thread size

2011-08-11 Thread Brenda Paternoster
Hi Sue

The various working angles of different Bucks patterns doesn't make a huge 
difference to the size of thread needed.  A rule of thumb is that if you make a 
winding of 10 wraps it should fit snugly between two adjacent pinholes along 
the footedge (or two vertical pinholes within ground) for point grounds and a 
winding of 12 wraps should fit between two footedge pinholes for torchon if the 
thread is the right thickness.

Is your pattern drawn over a straight grid? - so that you have to add and 
subtract pairs to get the circular shape.  The diamond shape of four adjacent 
ground pinholes will be the same shape and size throughout the design.  Or is 
it drawn over a logarithmic/computer generated grid which means that one group 
of four pinholes is a different shape/size to another group of four pinholes?

If your pattern is of the latter type (any sort of lace) you just have to 
compromise and use a thread size to fit the average density of the pricking 
and/or go for the thickest that you can squash into the tightest/densest parts 
without it puckering up.  I was told ages ago that the word used by the old 
Bucks lacemakers for this puckering/wrinkling was twippering.

Brenda

On 11 Aug 2011, at 10:19, Sue wrote:

 When you talk about the grid size between footedge and grid, I understand 
 perfectly on a straight piece, how do I go about checking that on a bucks 
 circular pattern?  Looking at this I can see along the diagonal (which I am 
 guessing is the grid, and straight across the piece which has a slightly 
 wider gape. Obviously with the different angle of bucks verses the torchon 
 examples in the book, its not so obvious to my poor little tired brain,

Brenda in Allhallows
www.brendapaternoster.co.uk

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[lace] pattern and thread size

2011-08-10 Thread Sue
Hello Spiders,
I have a pattern I like and want to make, its bucks but the original calls for
Brok 100/2 which I dont have or anything else that fine.   I dont mind using
Egyptian 60/2 so can anyone tell me how much bigger the pattern might need to
be, to take the difference.   39 wpc rather than 56 wpc.
Many thanks

Sue T
Dorset UK
www.hurwitzend.co.uk

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Re: [lace] pattern and thread size

2011-08-10 Thread Brenda Paternoster
Hi Sue

If you have one of the later editions of Threads for Lace have a look at the 
thread wraps per space - page 8 in Ed5.

The finer the thread the more leeway you have in the number of wraps/cm you 
have, but.
for a Bucks (point ground) pattern using a 58 w/cm thread (slightly finer than 
Brok 100/2) the ideal space between footedge pinholes is 1.8mm.  
For a 40 w/cm thread (slightly finer than Egyptian 60/2) it's 2.5mm  which is 
quite a bit bigger.

100% / 1.8 x 2.5 = 138.88  so you need to increase your pattern by 139% 
which is a lot.   A4 - A3 increase is 141% which is only marginally bigger.

Brenda

On 10 Aug 2011, at 20:13, Sue wrote:

 I have a pattern I like and want to make, its bucks but the original calls for
 Brok 100/2 which I dont have or anything else that fine.   I dont mind using
 Egyptian 60/2 so can anyone tell me how much bigger the pattern might need to
 be, to take the difference.   39 wpc rather than 56 wpc.

Brenda in Allhallows
www.brendapaternoster.co.uk

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