Re: [lace] Thread for Hollie Point
Dear Julie, 1. Catherine Barley, the author of the book you are using, is a member of Arachne. There are 329 messages from her in the archives under her name. So, wait a bit, and maybe she will weigh in with her experience. To verify I am correct, type her name in the search box at: http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.ccom/index.html 2. We have written a lot about threads through the years, and some of those memos are in the archives, if you search a variety of ways. This is a long research process, but I think a search of the following and other memos in the "Structure of Threads for Lace" file might help: _http://www.mail-archive.com/lace%40arachne.com/msg35959.html_ (http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/msg35959.html) 3. One thing not mentioned in quite this way, so in my words - thread has grain. You must stitch with the grain, and not against it. This will reduce wear on thread and fuzzy results. Draw the thread through your thumb and index finger in each direction. One will feel smoother than the other. Once you have determined that, always thread your needle from the end that produces the smoothest feel. Even DMC embroidery floss has a grain. It will take a while to develop touch sensitivity, but it is highly recommended. Grain of thread is something that was taught to young girls in American 7th grade home economics classes 60 years ago. READ PLEASE: The sewing thread for your sewing machine comes off the spool in the direction you need to thread into the needle's eye - not only for a sewing machine - but also for hand sewing. Unfortunately, this is not true of all thread coming off a spool. Some modern manufacturers seem to do whatever is convenient, being unfamiliar with how we use the thread (explained in the book referenced in (2) above). 4. Julie, the nicest way to learn lacemaking and advance quickly is with others who share your interest. Are you aware of the Chesapeake Region Lace Guild? _www.crlg.org/_ (http://www.crlg.org/) . They draw members from the states surrounding Washington DC. Also, The Embroiderers' Guild of America has several chapters near you. http://www.egausa.org/ Needle laces are more likely to be taught by The Embroiderers' Guild. They embrace all lace works made with a threaded needle, and have quite a few teachers in the U.S. At this time in history, lace guilds seem to be focusing on bobbin lace. (I have belonged to 4 local lace guilds between Maine and Washington DC for up to 4 decades, and to EGA for nearly 50 years, so feel secure in this claim.) Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center -- In a message dated 3/21/2016 3:12:47 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, jsyz...@comcast.net writes: Should I try a different thread? I guess threads are either cotton, linen, or silk. Or any of those types right out of the question for Hollie Point, or needlelace in general? What do I look for in a thread? I am wondering if maybe some threads stand up to the abuse better than others and Tanne 50 is not the sturdiest choice. Also, what about the final result? Do some threads give nicer final results? And what about the feel of thread as you work with it? In bobbin lace I enjoy the way different thread material feels differently as I work with it. My book mentions "Brok 160 or Egyptian Cotton 120". How do Brok and Egyptian Cotton compare with Tanne 50? What size thread should I be using anyway? Brok 160 and EC 120 are, according to my thread chart, significantly smaller than Tanne 50. Should I stick with threads the same size as Tanne 50 or would I find that I can after all make needlelace in good light with a smaller thread? In general I am the sort of person who likes lace to be fine. I get bored with coarse lace. Maybe you guys will talk about threads andmake me feel inspired to try new ones. Julie Shalack Laurel, Maryland, USA - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] thread for Hollie Point
Hi Julie Tanner 50 is 39 wraps/cm. Brok 160 is 66 wraps/cm and Egyptian 120 is 58 wraps/cm so they are both considerably finer than the Tanne Actually Egyptian 60/2 is 39 wraps/cm the same as Tanne 50 and Brok 70 is 38 wraps/cm (very marginally thicker). Any Egyptian cotton with a number higher than 60/2 or Brok with a higher number than 70/2 will be thinner than Tanne 50. Egyptian cotton comes as fine as 185/2 which is an eye watering 85 wraps/cm The other important thing about Brok and Egyptian cotton is that they are manufactured as lace threads and are S twisted. Tanner is manufactured as a machine embroidery thread and is Z twisted. If you are having problems with the Tanne twisting up as you work you might well find that Brok or Egyptian will be easier to work with. Brenda > > Do some threads give nicer final results? And what about the feel of thread as you work with it? In bobbin lace I enjoy the way different thread material feels differently as I work with it. > My book mentions "Brok 160 or Egyptian Cotton 120". How do Brok and Egyptian Cotton compare with Tanne 50? > What size thread should I be using anyway? Brok 160 and EC 120 are, according to my thread chart, significantly smaller than Tanne 50. Brenda in Allhallows paternos...@appleshack.com www.brendapaternoster.co.uk - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] thread for Hollie Point
What about letting the thread and needle hang free for a while? Won't that untwist it the correct way? Karen in Malta - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] thread for Hollie Point
Hi Julie, It’s a long time since I worked any Hollie Point but I used Madeira Tanne 50 for the best sample I made (I’ll send you a scan privately). In that one I had about 8 rows and 15 stitches in a 0.25 in square. By comparison a piece of Hollie Point in the Glasgow Museums Collection had about 10 rows and 22 stitches in a 0.25 in square - more stitches closer together, although I was getting close. I can’t remember what size needle I used. I do remember that I could only work that tightly with good light and sometimes needed a magnifying glass too! You do need to use short lengths of thread for needle lace - the length of your forearm is a good guide. Any more than that and the threads will start looking sad before you get to the end. When Hollie Point was made I expect linen was used rather than cotton but I’ve never seen any made with silk. I’ve always found that linen available today isn’t good for needlelace as it tends to fall apart quickly. Perhaps the quality was better in the 18th/19th century. Jean in cool but dry Glasgow - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] thread for Hollie Point
Hi Julie: Just a couple of quick pointers: About the kinking - you can control this by rolling the needle in your fingers between stitches, to take off the twist you just put on. Once you learn which way to twist the needle you do it between each stitch and the movement becomes easy and natural. When you already have a kink, to know whether to remove it by twisting the needle clockwise or counterclockwise: allow the thread to twist back on itself and look at the point where the twist starts. If the bit of thread coming from your needle is in front of the thread coming from the work, you twist counter-clockwise. If the thread from your needle is behind the thread from the work, twist clockwise. (this would be so much easier to show you if I could do it with a sketch) I see you’ve already realized this, but yes, you do need to use shorter lengths of thread to avoid the abrasion problem, especially with Hollie Point because the thread wraps around itself as you tighten the stitch. I have the same book, and I see there are good instructions for changing threads in the middle of a row. Better to master how to change threads than to fight with abrasion. Needles - a #26 tapestry needle might be too coarse. You can get a thinner needle and dull the point if you like. I haven’t seen the #15 Fresia needles she refers to in the book - has anybody else? What are they like? Hope this helps. Adele West Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada) > On Mar 21, 2016, at 12:12 PM, jsyz...@comcast.net wrote: > > I've completed a Hollie Point needlelace exercise! Great, right? On to the > third exercise! Except, suddenly I feel disenchanted with my thread. It's > Tanne 50, a cotton thread. Should I try a different thread? I guess threads > are either cotton, linen, or silk. Or any of those types right out of the > question for Hollie Point, or needlelace in general? What do I look for in a > thread? > I'm dissatisfied with the Tanne 50 because it looks great coming off the > spool but it gets really beaten up after I've been sewing with it for a > while. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
