Re: Designing with Cad vs Design Kit
Tim, Thank you very much. Jim -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
RE: Accurate setup
Forgot to mention the mill should move easily in all directions when it is clean and lubricated with dynaglide or similar dry lube Sawdust is always a problem with the mills if it is totally clean and lubed and is stiff something needs to be looked at, rails all the same way round for a start, making sure the top hats slide smoothly on their own before attaching to the saddle is another but that is all another story Bill From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bulkeley Sent: Sunday, 26 February 2017 12:11 PM To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Subject: RE: Accurate setup A difference in the middle most likely is movement or sag of the work try a larger dia like 4 or 5 inches and see if that is closer . Getting 0.00 all the way would be great but not really possible its a wood mill not a metal lathe but if you play around with a few thousands of a inch height adjustment you would get it closer but 19 thou over 16 inches would do me Bill From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Jim Riggen Sent: Sunday, 26 February 2017 10:49 AM To: Legacy Ornamental Mills Cc: curtgeo...@wowway.com Subject: Re: Accurate setup To All who have contributed, Thank you for all of your comments on my dilemma. I was finally able to get back to my mill today to try all of your suggestions. I leveled my rails by using a single block of wood at each of the corners and a straight edge lying across the two top rails. With the block in place, I adjusted each the 4 corners for zero clearance between the block and the straight edge. I then checked the router for perpendicularity by using a flat board and a surface cleaning bit just touching the board. There was no visible gap with the bit rotated in all directions. Then came the test. I turned a cylinder. The results were quite good I think. Attached is a chart of the results. The cylinder is 16 3/4" long. The diameter is approximately 2.7 depending where you measure. The chart shows difference of .019" between one end and the other. That is real close to 1/64". I think I can live with that even though I would like it to be .000". What I find interesting is that the variation is not linear. At the headstock end, it is 2.723, at 10" it is 2.700, and the tailstock end is 2.704. I don't know what that means or if it is important. I'm hoping one of you can help me out there. This has been quite an experience and I know a whole lot more about this machine now than I did when I bought it! I've got one more question though. How freely should the carriage move along the Y axis and the X axis? I've got it moving quite easily along the Y axis but not so much on the X axis. Is that the nature of the beast or do I need to do something more to tune it up better? Thanks again for all of your help and patience, Jim Riggen On Tuesday, February 21, 2017 at 7:18:22 AM UTC-6, Curtis wrote: Good morning Don A funny note here, I too had a problem with binding when moving the carriage , Mike P. came over and looked at my machine (this was YEARS ago.) I told him that I took everything apart, with the only exception the carriage assembly its self, (it said in my manual to not touch that, due to it being factory set.) Well after looking at my set up, Mike noted that there was a binding with my slides, and they had to be coming form the carriage. so He loosened the screws on my carriage and re-tightened them, I could not believe how much of a difference that made, ‘…when you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth. a quote form ’Sherlock Holmes' I am glad that you found you improbable truth. Now lets start making some saw dust. ;-) C.A.G. _ From: "Don W." > To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" > Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2017 2:59:10 AM Subject: Re: Accurate setup Yes, I'm much happier with the finish now. Tim, when I took the router carriage off, there was about 2 inches of loose felt on all ends. At the time I thought maybe sawdust had gotten between the felt and the bracket, so I cut off the loose felt. I have always had problems with binding when pushing this hand, so hopefully that trimming also fixed that problem. I think I've finally disassemble and re-assembled every part on this machine now. :-) I appreciate all the help. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com . To post to this group, send email to legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com . Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills. For more opti
RE: Accurate setup
A difference in the middle most likely is movement or sag of the work try a larger dia like 4 or 5 inches and see if that is closer . Getting 0.00 all the way would be great but not really possible its a wood mill not a metal lathe but if you play around with a few thousands of a inch height adjustment you would get it closer but 19 thou over 16 inches would do me Bill From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Jim Riggen Sent: Sunday, 26 February 2017 10:49 AM To: Legacy Ornamental Mills Cc: curtgeo...@wowway.com Subject: Re: Accurate setup To All who have contributed, Thank you for all of your comments on my dilemma. I was finally able to get back to my mill today to try all of your suggestions. I leveled my rails by using a single block of wood at each of the corners and a straight edge lying across the two top rails. With the block in place, I adjusted each the 4 corners for zero clearance between the block and the straight edge. I then checked the router for perpendicularity by using a flat board and a surface cleaning bit just touching the board. There was no visible gap with the bit rotated in all directions. Then came the test. I turned a cylinder. The results were quite good I think. Attached is a chart of the results. The cylinder is 16 3/4" long. The diameter is approximately 2.7 depending where you measure. The chart shows difference of .019" between one end and the other. That is real close to 1/64". I think I can live with that even though I would like it to be .000". What I find interesting is that the variation is not linear. At the headstock end, it is 2.723, at 10" it is 2.700, and the tailstock end is 2.704. I don't know what that means or if it is important. I'm hoping one of you can help me out there. This has been quite an experience and I know a whole lot more about this machine now than I did when I bought it! I've got one more question though. How freely should the carriage move along the Y axis and the X axis? I've got it moving quite easily along the Y axis but not so much on the X axis. Is that the nature of the beast or do I need to do something more to tune it up better? Thanks again for all of your help and patience, Jim Riggen On Tuesday, February 21, 2017 at 7:18:22 AM UTC-6, Curtis wrote: Good morning Don A funny note here, I too had a problem with binding when moving the carriage , Mike P. came over and looked at my machine (this was YEARS ago.) I told him that I took everything apart, with the only exception the carriage assembly its self, (it said in my manual to not touch that, due to it being factory set.) Well after looking at my set up, Mike noted that there was a binding with my slides, and they had to be coming form the carriage. so He loosened the screws on my carriage and re-tightened them, I could not believe how much of a difference that made, ‘…when you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth. a quote form ’Sherlock Holmes' I am glad that you found you improbable truth. Now lets start making some saw dust. ;-) C.A.G. _ From: "Don W." > To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" > Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2017 2:59:10 AM Subject: Re: Accurate setup Yes, I'm much happier with the finish now. Tim, when I took the router carriage off, there was about 2 inches of loose felt on all ends. At the time I thought maybe sawdust had gotten between the felt and the bracket, so I cut off the loose felt. I have always had problems with binding when pushing this hand, so hopefully that trimming also fixed that problem. I think I've finally disassemble and re-assembled every part on this machine now. :-) I appreciate all the help. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com . To post to this group, send email to legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com . Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receivin
Re: Accurate setup
To All who have contributed, Thank you for all of your comments on my dilemma. I was finally able to get back to my mill today to try all of your suggestions. I leveled my rails by using a single block of wood at each of the corners and a straight edge lying across the two top rails. With the block in place, I adjusted each the 4 corners for zero clearance between the block and the straight edge. I then checked the router for perpendicularity by using a flat board and a surface cleaning bit just touching the board. There was no visible gap with the bit rotated in all directions. Then came the test. I turned a cylinder. The results were quite good I think. Attached is a chart of the results. The cylinder is 16 3/4" long. The diameter is approximately 2.7 depending where you measure. The chart shows difference of .019" between one end and the other. That is real close to 1/64". I think I can live with that even though I would like it to be .000". What I find interesting is that the variation is not linear. At the headstock end, it is 2.723, at 10" it is 2.700, and the tailstock end is 2.704. I don't know what that means or if it is important. I'm hoping one of you can help me out there. This has been quite an experience and I know a whole lot more about this machine now than I did when I bought it! I've got one more question though. How freely should the carriage move along the Y axis and the X axis? I've got it moving quite easily along the Y axis but not so much on the X axis. Is that the nature of the beast or do I need to do something more to tune it up better? Thanks again for all of your help and patience, Jim Riggen On Tuesday, February 21, 2017 at 7:18:22 AM UTC-6, Curtis wrote: > Good morning Don > A funny note here, I too had a problem with binding when moving the > carriage , Mike P. came over and looked at my machine (this was YEARS ago.) > I told him that I took everything apart, with the only exception the > carriage assembly its self, (it said in my manual to not touch that, due to > it being factory set.) Well after looking at my set up, Mike noted that > there was a binding with my slides, and they had to be coming form the > carriage. so He loosened the screws on my carriage and re-tightened them, I > could not believe how much of a difference that made, > > ‘…when you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, > however improbable, must be the truth. a quote form > > ’Sherlock Holmes' > > I am glad that you found you improbable truth. Now lets start making some > saw dust. ;-) > > C.A.G. > > > -- > *From: *"Don W." > > *To: *"Legacy Ornamental Mills" > > *Sent: *Tuesday, February 21, 2017 2:59:10 AM > *Subject: *Re: Accurate setup > > Yes, I'm much happier with the finish now. Tim, when I took the router > carriage off, there was about 2 inches of loose felt on all ends. At the > time I thought maybe sawdust had gotten between the felt and the bracket, > so I cut off the loose felt. I have always had problems with binding when > pushing this hand, so hopefully that trimming also fixed that problem. I > think I've finally disassemble and re-assembled every part on this machine > now. :-) I appreciate all the help. >> >> >> > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com > . > To post to this group, send email to legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com > . > Visit this group at > https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. Turning.pdf Description: Adobe PDF document
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Re: Designing with Cad vs Design Kit
That was only 10 years ago, I'm not done yet :-) Tracy at Legacy requested that any one wanting the router bit profiles in a dxf format will need to get them from him. If I recall correctly his email address is tr...@legacywoodworking.com. If that is not the right address I would call him. The phone is the best way of talking to any one at Legacy. If all else fails, get back in contact with me. -Tim - Original Message - From: Jim Riggen To: Legacy Ornamental Mills Cc: Legacy-Ornamental-Mills@googlegroups.com Sent: Friday, February 24, 2017 2:30 PM Subject: Re: Designing with Cad vs Design Kit Tim, Did you ever get the profiles separated? The message thread sorta ends abruptly. If you got them separated, are you willing to share them? Thanks, Jim On Saturday, June 2, 2007 at 2:02:54 PM UTC-5, Tim wrote: Hi Jeff, I'd like to share my files, but I just found out it is going to take an extra step for me to do this. I turns out all of my profiles are stored in a single collection. I will need to convert them to dxf files individually now that I have them stored as symbols. I guessing this is a proprietary format. I'm thinking about using acad version 14 as a shareable standard. Does that work for anyone interested? I can export version 9 - 2006. -Tim - Original Message - From: "Love to turn in Oregon" To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2007 8:09 AM Subject: Re: Designing with Cad vs Design Kit > > Would you mind sharing your designed profiles, and/or the technique > you use to create your profiles? I would be interested in trying them > with CAD. > > -Jeff > > On Jun 2, 8:02 am, "Steve Hunt" wrote: > > Hi.. > > > > I have the design kit, but do not use it for the same reason as you guys > > have mentioned, acad is much easier. The other problem I have with both > > magnate and the legacy design kit is that nothing is labelled.. On the > > design kit templates, there are no numbers to tell you which cutter you are > > drawing, similarly, magnate do not bother to put the cutter number on their > > router bits. Once the cutter is in acad, you can label it with its number > > and always keep track of what you are using.. > > > > If it would be of any use to you, I could scan the design templates (1:1) > > and then maybe you could try to incorporate it into cad? Of course, you will > > still have to figure out which cutter is which. > > > > Steve.. > > > > _ > > > > From: legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com > > [mailto:Legacy-Ornamental-Mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Grant Lasson > > Sent: 02 June 2007 14:01 > > To: legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com > > Subject: RE: Designing with Cad vs Design Kit > > > > Been there and tried that. They seemed very suspicious about why I would > > want them. Anyway, they claimed to me that they didn't have them. I said I > > was a little surprised because I thought all that cutting and shaping was > > done by CNC machines these days. They said that was true but that they > > didn't make the bits. They outsourced that activity to another company. > > > > I'd much prefer to use CAD as my design kit. Much more flexible. Easy to > > save a dozen different versions, etc. The difficulty, of course, is that > > there isn't enough information given in the Magnate catalog to replicate the > > bit profile. One would either need the Design Kit or the actual bit. So, > > this idea sits on the shelf with the rest of my good ideas waiting for > > sufficient time. > > > > Grant > > > > From: legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com > > [mailto:Legacy-Ornamental-Mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Steve Hunt > > Sent: Friday, June 01, 2007 2:32 PM > > To: legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com > > Subject: RE: Designing with Cad vs Design Kit > > > > Hi Tim. > > > > Have you tried emailing magnate? Maybe they already have cad files for all > > their cutters? > > > > Steve.. > > > > _ > > > > From: legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com > > [mailto:Legacy-Ornamental-Mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Tim Krause > > Sent: 01 June 2007 22:18 > > To: legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com > > Subject: Designing with Cad vs Design Kit > > > > Does anyone else design with CAD software for their turnings. I made symbols > > for each of my router bits that allow me to quickly build profiles and > > dimension the part. I don't own the design kit, or else I would have all of > > Magnates bits converted to symbols by now. > > > > Just curious. > > > > -Tim > > > > -- You received this message
