Re: Make a "Split Nut"

[parr454 via Legacy Ornamental Mills]

I've played a little with this kind of stuff and would suggest you try using an 
oven or heat gun instead of a flame.

All the machine work can be done on the Legacy

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Harvey Matyas 
To: legacy-ornamental-mills 
Sent: Fri, Aug 4, 2017 9:26 pm
Subject: Re: Make a "Split Nut"



I have not tried what they did in this video although someday I hope to try it.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EVW7Q469RnA







On Fri, Aug 4, 2017 at 9:46 AM, Tim Krause  wrote:


Fire probably gave it a nice case hardening!   Hahaha


Sent from BlueMail 
On Aug 4, 2017, at 1:41 AM, Bill Bulkeley  wrote:
Don’t let them tell you there is no 5/8x 4 tap out there I own one I got it 
years ago on ebay unfortunately it went through my house fire
 but I don’t mind it will still cut nice soft delrin ok



Bill

-Original Message-
From: 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills 
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] 
Sent: Friday, 4 August 2017 12:28 PM
To: Legacy Ornamental Mills
Subject: RE: Make a "Split Nut"

There might be a chance that a brass split nut wears and compromises the lead 
screw... then you have a bigger problem... I have sent several emails to 
suppliers of tooling for the metal industry, and all have said no to a 5/8-4, 
right hand, acme thread tap... for now I am giving up and will try to make the 
tap from some left over acme rod I have...I will post the progress... Joe 




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Re: Legacy split nut wear

[Tom Dotta]

A very elegant solution.  Way beyond my capability,  Pure beauty.

Cheers  to jpreston  Tom Dotta

On Fri, Aug 4, 2017 at 6:49 AM,  wrote:

> The delrin split nuts wear because:
>
> 1.  There is excessive movement of the acme rod; it is unsupported along
> it's length and free to wobble when force is applied.
> 2.  There is excessive and variable resistance to movement of sled that
> carries the Z-axis/router.
> 3.  The sled is also free to shift at an angle when force is applied which
> also shifts the delrin split nut relative to the acme threaded rod.
> 4.  The split nut was poorly supported and free to shift at an angle when
> excessive force is applied, which caused rapid wear of the delrin nut.
>
> I fixed these issues by:
>
> 1.  Mounting all three axis of the legacy on linear bearings so that they
> move freely, with minimal resistance and do not shift or angle when force
> is applied.
> 2.  I machined a large sled apron, similar to the apron of a metal working
> lathe that supports the acme threaded lead screw several inches on each
> side of the split nut.
> 3.  The split nut is rigidly supported inside the sled apron so that it
> cannot shift when force is applied.
>
> The end result was a mill that has great precision and can machine
> multiple duplicate parts with great precision. My split nut is original and
> has essentially zero visible wear.
>
>
>
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RE: Make a "Split Nut"

[Tim Krause]

Fire probably gave it a nice case hardening!   Hahaha

⁣Sent from BlueMail ​

On Aug 4, 2017, 1:41 AM, at 1:41 AM, Bill Bulkeley  
wrote:
>Don’t let them tell you there is no 5/8x 4 tap out there I own one I
>got it years ago on ebay unfortunately it went through my house fire
> but I don’t mind it will still cut nice soft delrin ok
>
>
>
>Bill
>
>-Original Message-
>From: 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills
>[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] 
>Sent: Friday, 4 August 2017 12:28 PM
>To: Legacy Ornamental Mills
>Subject: RE: Make a "Split Nut"
>
>There might be a chance that a brass split nut wears and compromises
>the lead screw... then you have a bigger problem... I have sent several
>emails to suppliers of tooling for the metal industry, and all have
>said no to a 5/8-4, right hand, acme thread tap... for now I am giving
>up and will try to make the tap from some left over acme rod I have...I
>will post the progress... Joe 
>
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RE: Make a "Split Nut"

[Tim Krause]

Curt made a tap from some leftover acme and it works good.

⁣

On Aug 3, 2017, 7:27 PM, at 7:27 PM, 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills 
 wrote:
>There might be a chance that a brass split nut wears and compromises
>the lead screw... then you have a bigger problem... I have sent several
>emails to suppliers of tooling for the metal industry, and all have
>said no to a 5/8-4, right hand, acme thread tap... for now I am giving
>up and will try to make the tap from some left over acme rod I have...I
>will post the progress... Joe 
>
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Re: Wood Chuck Tour by Mike Pung

[Tim Krause]

Joe, I'm seeing your pictures on a large screen and now see what you are 
pointing out about the sideways wear.  I'm wondering if a longer split 
nut would help spread out the load.  Go from a 4 thread engagement to a 
6 or 8. Is that that the split nut from your monster machine?


The wear patterns I see is the thread gets deeper and the split nut does 
not fully seat.  That's why sanding away the bottom surface works.   You 
need to catch it early before the nut is nearly ruined like yours.


Stan brings up an interesting idea about using a 3d printer.  Is nylon 
6/6 available for those machines?  Possibly a material change to a 
harder plastic might help such as nylon 6 or PTFE. These are thoughts 
off the top of my head.  Tensile strength may vary :-).



On 8/3/2017 7:00 AM, 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills wrote:
i'll offer an opinion here, as this could have been a problem for me 
on my recently acquired 1500...the problem is, due to the 
action/movement of the lead screw, the threads in the split nut wear 
sideways, especially when using a drive motor...


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RE: Make a "Split Nut"

[Bill Bulkeley]

Don’t let them tell you there is no 5/8x 4 tap out there I own one I got it 
years ago on ebay unfortunately it went through my house fire
 but I don’t mind it will still cut nice soft delrin ok



Bill

-Original Message-
From: 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills 
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] 
Sent: Friday, 4 August 2017 12:28 PM
To: Legacy Ornamental Mills
Subject: RE: Make a "Split Nut"

There might be a chance that a brass split nut wears and compromises the lead 
screw... then you have a bigger problem... I have sent several emails to 
suppliers of tooling for the metal industry, and all have said no to a 5/8-4, 
right hand, acme thread tap... for now I am giving up and will try to make the 
tap from some left over acme rod I have...I will post the progress... Joe 

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Re: Revo Spindle Drive

[Richard Ellis]

Yes Tim, it is however, as it sometimes is (via the inverter )  running 
quite slowly it has more mass to absorb the heat. even though I do not run 
it for long . It is not too easy to find a motor that suits the purpose in 
hand. The Woodchuck one is a 415v  900 rpm running through an inverter, 
These two motors are the ones I managed to get hold of even if a bit big 
for the job---but they work well.
Richard

On Thursday, August 3, 2017 at 4:35:39 PM UTC+1, Tim wrote:
>
> That's a big motor for turning the stock!  Thanks for showing us.
>
> Sent from BlueMail  
> On Aug 3, 2017, at 7:12 AM, Richard Ellis  > wrote:
>>
>> Tim
>> Here is a pic of the Drive motor to the Revo spindle, It works well. and 
>> the only slight problem I have had is the crank handle, not enough crank to 
>> miss the drive belt,Woodchuck one has more crank so I use that when 
>> drive motor is not needed  (short Pieces ) The handle can stay on all the 
>> time.
>> Richard
>>
>>

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Re: Make a "Split Nut"

[Richard Ellis]

Bill
I agree brass would be o.k. However my present lathe does not do 4 tpi 
threads, and a lot of others will not have metal work lathes. I will try 
heating  delrin later on.
Richard

On Friday, August 4, 2017 at 12:25:46 AM UTC+1, aussiman wrote:
>
> How would a brass split nut go i would try that if it was me
>
>  
>
> Bill
>
>  
>
> *From:* legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com  [mailto:
> legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com ] *On Behalf Of *Tim 
> Krause
> *Sent:* Friday, 4 August 2017 4:37 AM
> *To:* Legacy Ornamental Mills
> *Subject:* Re: Make a "Split Nut"
>
>  
>
> HDPE is a little soft.  Over on another machinist form that I'm on people 
> have heated a lead screw and pressed acetal  (delrin) around the screw to 
> form threads.  It takes multiple heating attempts and practice.
>
> Sent from BlueMail  
>
> On Aug 3, 2017, at 9:23 AM, MWF  
> wrote:
>
> Hello all,
> I am not sure how well a split nut made from HDPE will hold up - but here 
> is my 2-cents' worth:
> HDPE (Look on bottom of plastic jugs, bottles, etc for the Recycle symbol 
> w/the #2) is the only plastic that I know of that we can "re-purpose" at 
> home.
> Do an Internet/BING search for this - you'll be amazed.
>
> I find that the plastic Folgers and Maxwell House coffee canisters are 
> labeled #2 - as are most milk jugs.  The two coffee brands yield red and 
> blue plastic respectively.
> My thought is that you embed a matching Acme rod into the mold you melt 
> the #2 plastic in. Once cooled, you should be able to "unscrew" the rod 
> from the plastic billet.  You then cut/machine the billet to the exterior 
> measurements you need and then split it down the center line.  "Machining" 
> can be done with your router, bandsaw, etc.
>
> Does anyone have an idea of how well the #2 plastic (HDPE) will hold up?  
> Even if it wears down after 6 months of use - you will be able to reuse 
> that worn out piece, with some added #2 plastic, and melt/mold a new 
> piece.  If your mold & billet is long enough, you can produce a 
> year's-worth in one mold.
>
> If anyone tries this - or something similar, please share pictures and 
> results.
>
> Mac
> --
> --
>
> -Original Message- 
> From: 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills 
> Sent: Aug 3, 2017 10:00 AM 
> To: Legacy Ornamental Mills 
> Subject: Re: Wood Chuck Tour by Mike Pung 
>
> i'll offer an opinion here, as this could have been a problem for me on my 
> recently acquired 1500...the problem is, due to the action/movement of the 
> lead screw, the threads in the split nut wear sideways, especially when 
> using a drive motor...think of each cross section of thread as a square(see 
> photo)...I measured the cross section of the thread(in a new nut) to be 
> .140" wide...in the photo of the worn nut, that same dimension is down to 
> .065...so you could say the thread went from 1/8" full(new) to 1/16"...and 
> sanding the nut down is not going to improve the function of the nut, in my 
> opinion...maybe early on you can sand the nut to get a bit more life out of 
> it, but that's it...the key to solving this problem is finding the 5/8-4 
> acme thread tap...once you have the tap, to make a new split nut is 
> somewhat simple...and anyone who has that "hinged" split nut, I would swap 
> that out and set up a sliding split nut...much more problematic to make 
> that hinged split nut...so, if any member knows where to get that tap, here 
> or overseas, please let the group know...I certainly would like to purchase 
> one...barring that, I would also attempt to make a tap from some acme, 
> threaded rod, if I had to...and the casting idea is also an excellent 
> idea...joe b.
>
>  
>
>
> 
>
> Virus-free. www.avg.com 
> 
>  
>
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