Re: Fwd: Project idea, trail and Error.

[Okla Mike (Liltwisted)]

Curtis, use a very thin walled piece of conduit, 5/8" OD.  Slide all 
your pieces over it to create a glued stack and then pass a threaded rod 
through the middle to clamp them in a same manner as you did on the 
first one.  When the glue is dry, remove the threaded rod and replace it 
with a 1/2 steel rod that will now be your core to hold your turning 
onto your lathe as well as adding to the stability.  When you are 
finished milling, you will be able to remove the core, add ends, and 
have a strong light finished piece.  Comparably speaking, this is like 
turning a pen, but this would be the telephone pole of the pen world, so 
congratulations!  LOL



Mike

OK


On 6/28/2016 8:33 PM, CURTIS GEORGE wrote:
On Tue, Jun 28, 2016 at 2:25 PM, CURTIS GEORGE > wrote:


Thank you Richard
My glue up was all at one time. I glues each piece of wood and
then slid the wood down over the rod. and then using a set of
square washers and nuts, I tightened the ends to get the clamping
pressure I needed.
On the good side the all thread rod did a great job with the clamping.
On my next attempt, I think I will be using, 1/4" or 3/8"
stainless steel tubing? that should give me the stability that I
need as well as keeping this project as light as possible.
Like I said in the topic its all Trail and Error.
If I want to get crazy, I could use thicker all thread rod. and
make this really solid, but then this turning most likely could
not be used for canes, but would work out well for something like
lamp stands and or things like, stair case parts???

You know I just had a crazy idea. If I use two small rods for the
spine, and then I could use each rod for an axis, this would make
a oval/off set spindle, perhaps the shape of the cane would help
the stability problem? Or not... but it would be something fun to
play around with. ;-)

I have to run.
Have a great day.
talk to you , and everyone else latter.

C.A.G.

*From: *"rchrd ellis1" mailto:rchrd.ell...@gmail.com>>
*To: *"Legacy Ornamental Mills"
mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com>>
*Cc: *curtgeo...@wowway.com 
*Sent: *Tuesday, June 28, 2016 2:50:18 AM
*Subject: *Re: Project idea, trail and Error.

Hi Curtis
How did you glue all the small pieces together?? in batches or by
all the pieces on the rod and then clamped by a nut at each end,  
I wonder if it was the latter did the clamp exert the same

pressure on the center pieces. I notice chip board is harder on
the outside than it is in the center, and their press must be huge.
I think alloy tube would be O.K. for the spine, it does bend but
does not stay bent as much as mild steel.
The slices cut at an angle !!! Would they try to slide about when
glued and clamped ??
I do like to see experiments
Regards
Richard

On Monday, June 27, 2016 at 2:34:52 PM UTC+1, Curtis wrote:

Thank you Mac
I will try your suggestions,  Perhaps you are right, that a
bigger surface glue joint could take up the play/slop in this
concept ?  You know the funny thing here is that My Wife
suggested the same things, but for different reasons, (He
suggestions were for appearance/comedic appeal. not structure.)

Thank you.
C.A.G.

*From: *"MWF" http://javascript-blocked/>>
*To: *legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com 
*Sent: *Monday, June 27, 2016 3:15:06 AM
*Subject: *Re: Project idea, trail and Error.

Curtis,

Perhaps you could try cutting your pieces such that their glue
surfaces are at a "diagonal", like this: (Sort of like you
sometimes see some country-style small slabs of wood cut from
a tree branch and sanded down to serve as a small cheese
cutting board of a message painted on them - making them a
sort of sign - like sold at "Cracker Barrel" restaurants.)

/ ### / ### / ### / ### /  Only with more of a skew for the
cuts.  This will GREATLY increase the surface area of the
"glue joints" - which should help a lot in reducing the
flexing.  Cut your pieces at a 45 or 60 degree angle to the
end grain - then stack and glue them all together.

Another way to try is to get some *high quality* (many thin
laminations) thin plywood. Cut it into strips a bit wider than
your glue-up - and as long as the cane/stack of pieces. After
gluing up all the stack, rip it down the center - yielding two
"halves" the length of the cane.  Now take those two halves
and glue them to the long strip of plywood and let dry/cure
 

Fwd: Project idea, trail and Error.

[CURTIS GEORGE]

On Tue, Jun 28, 2016 at 2:25 PM, CURTIS GEORGE < curtgeo...@wowway.com > wrote: 



Thank you Richard 
My glue up was all at one time. I glues each piece of wood and then slid the 
wood down over the rod. and then using a set of square washers and nuts, I 
tightened the ends to get the clamping pressure I needed. 
On the good side the all thread rod did a great job with the clamping. 
On my next attempt, I think I will be using, 1/4" or 3/8" stainless steel 
tubing? that should give me the stability that I need as well as keeping this 
project as light as possible.  
Like I said in the topic its all Trail and Error. 
If I want to get crazy, I could use thicker all thread rod. and make this 
really solid, but then this turning most likely could not be used for canes, 
but would work out well for something like lamp stands and or things like, 
stair case parts??? 

You know I just had a crazy idea. If I use two small rods for the spine, and 
then I could use each rod for an axis, this would make a oval/off set spindle, 
perhaps the shape of the cane would help the stability problem? Or not... but 
it would be something fun to play around with. ;-) 

I have to run. 
Have a great day. 
talk to you , and everyone else latter. 

C.A.G. 

From: "rchrd ellis1" < rchrd.ell...@gmail.com > 
To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" < legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com > 
Cc: curtgeo...@wowway.com 
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2016 2:50:18 AM 
Subject: Re: Project idea, trail and Error. 

Hi Curtis 
How did you glue all the small pieces together?? in batches or by all the 
pieces on the rod and then clamped by a nut at each end,   I wonder if it was 
the latter did the clamp exert the same pressure on the center pieces. I notice 
chip board is harder on the outside than it is in the center, and their press 
must be huge. 
I think alloy tube would be O.K. for the spine, it does bend but does not stay 
bent as much as mild steel. 
The slices cut at an angle !!! Would they try to slide about when glued and 
clamped ?? 
I do like to see experiments  
Regards 
Richard 

On Monday, June 27, 2016 at 2:34:52 PM UTC+1, Curtis wrote: 


Thank you Mac 
I will try your suggestions,  Perhaps you are right, that a bigger surface glue 
joint could take up the play/slop in this concept ?  You know the funny thing 
here is that My Wife suggested the same things, but for different reasons, (He 
suggestions were for appearance/comedic appeal. not structure.) 

Thank you. 
C.A.G. 

From: "MWF" < mwfo...@earthlink.net > 
To: legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com 
Sent: Monday, June 27, 2016 3:15:06 AM 
Subject: Re: Project idea, trail and Error. 

Curtis, 

Perhaps you could try cutting your pieces such that their glue surfaces are at 
a "diagonal", like this: (Sort of like you sometimes see some country-style 
small slabs of wood cut from a tree branch and sanded down to serve as a small 
cheese cutting board of a message painted on them - making them a sort of sign 
- like sold at "Cracker Barrel" restaurants.) 

/ ### / ### / ### / ### /  Only with more of a skew for the cuts.  This will 
GREATLY increase the surface area of the "glue joints" - which should help a 
lot in reducing the flexing.  Cut your pieces at a 45 or 60 degree angle to the 
end grain - then stack and glue them all together. 

Another way to try is to get some high quality (many thin laminations) thin 
plywood. Cut it into strips a bit wider than your glue-up - and as long as the 
cane/stack of pieces. After gluing up all the stack, rip it down the center - 
yielding two "halves" the length of the cane.  Now take those two halves and 
glue them to the long strip of plywood and let dry/cure well.  This will create 
a "ply spine" down the length of the cane - most likely reducing the "whipping" 
as you turn the shaft.  If you still have more flex than you like, repeat the 
rip down the middle of the cane - only this time rip it so the nest ply strip 
is glued at 90 degrees off of the first strip.  You should now have 4 
"quadrants if you look down the shaft/cane from either end.  You will now have 
"almost" two backbones down the cane's length.  Now finish turning the shaft.  
You should have a lot less flex now. 

Let us know how it "turns" out. (Pun intended!) 

Mac 




-Original Message- 
From: CURTIS GEORGE 
Sent: Jun 25, 2016 3:47 PM 
To: Legacy-Ornamental-Mills 
Subject: Project idea, trail and Error. 

Hello Everyone. 
Here is a project that I just wanted to try out, I glued it up over the week, 
and let it fully dry, today I started the turning. 

What you are looking at is, end grain used on a walking stick, with an All 
thread rod as the center/spine. of this rod. THe idea is/was to use end grain 
wood for walking sticks, the rod would add strength  and make it easy to add on 
the handle and foot, once done. 

I had a lot of scraps in the old storage bin, Teak,Mahogany,and some kind of 
neat looking pallet wood for central america. all cut into squares and drilled