Curtis, use a very thin walled piece of conduit, 5/8" OD. Slide all
your pieces over it to create a glued stack and then pass a threaded rod
through the middle to clamp them in a same manner as you did on the
first one. When the glue is dry, remove the threaded rod and replace it
with a 1/2 steel rod that will now be your core to hold your turning
onto your lathe as well as adding to the stability. When you are
finished milling, you will be able to remove the core, add ends, and
have a strong light finished piece. Comparably speaking, this is like
turning a pen, but this would be the telephone pole of the pen world, so
congratulations! LOL
Mike
OK
On 6/28/2016 8:33 PM, CURTIS GEORGE wrote:
On Tue, Jun 28, 2016 at 2:25 PM, CURTIS GEORGE <curtgeo...@wowway.com
<mailto:curtgeo...@wowway.com>> wrote:
Thank you Richard
My glue up was all at one time. I glues each piece of wood and
then slid the wood down over the rod. and then using a set of
square washers and nuts, I tightened the ends to get the clamping
pressure I needed.
On the good side the all thread rod did a great job with the clamping.
On my next attempt, I think I will be using, 1/4" or 3/8"
stainless steel tubing? that should give me the stability that I
need as well as keeping this project as light as possible.
Like I said in the topic its all Trail and Error.
If I want to get crazy, I could use thicker all thread rod. and
make this really solid, but then this turning most likely could
not be used for canes, but would work out well for something like
lamp stands and or things like, stair case parts???
You know I just had a crazy idea. If I use two small rods for the
spine, and then I could use each rod for an axis, this would make
a oval/off set spindle, perhaps the shape of the cane would help
the stability problem? Or not... but it would be something fun to
play around with. ;-)
I have to run.
Have a great day.
talk to you , and everyone else latter.
C.A.G.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*From: *"rchrd ellis1" <rchrd.ell...@gmail.com
<mailto:rchrd.ell...@gmail.com>>
*To: *"Legacy Ornamental Mills"
<legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
<mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com>>
*Cc: *curtgeo...@wowway.com <mailto:curtgeo...@wowway.com>
*Sent: *Tuesday, June 28, 2016 2:50:18 AM
*Subject: *Re: Project idea, trail and Error.
Hi Curtis
How did you glue all the small pieces together?? in batches or by
all the pieces on the rod and then clamped by a nut at each end,
I wonder if it was the latter did the clamp exert the same
pressure on the center pieces. I notice chip board is harder on
the outside than it is in the center, and their press must be huge.
I think alloy tube would be O.K. for the spine, it does bend but
does not stay bent as much as mild steel.
The slices cut at an angle !!! Would they try to slide about when
glued and clamped ??
I do like to see experiments
Regards
Richard
On Monday, June 27, 2016 at 2:34:52 PM UTC+1, Curtis wrote:
Thank you Mac
I will try your suggestions, Perhaps you are right, that a
bigger surface glue joint could take up the play/slop in this
concept ? You know the funny thing here is that My Wife
suggested the same things, but for different reasons, (He
suggestions were for appearance/comedic appeal. not structure.)
Thank you.
C.A.G.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*From: *"MWF" <mwfo...@earthlink.net <http://javascript-blocked/>>
*To: *legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com <http://javascript-blocked/>
*Sent: *Monday, June 27, 2016 3:15:06 AM
*Subject: *Re: Project idea, trail and Error.
Curtis,
Perhaps you could try cutting your pieces such that their glue
surfaces are at a "diagonal", like this: (Sort of like you
sometimes see some country-style small slabs of wood cut from
a tree branch and sanded down to serve as a small cheese
cutting board of a message painted on them - making them a
sort of sign - like sold at "Cracker Barrel" restaurants.)
/ ### / ### / ### / ### / Only with more of a skew for the
cuts. This will GREATLY increase the surface area of the
"glue joints" - which should help a lot in reducing the
flexing. Cut your pieces at a 45 or 60 degree angle to the
end grain - then stack and glue them all together.
Another way to try is to get some *high quality* (many thin
laminations) thin plywood. Cut it into strips a bit wider than
your glue-up - and as long as the cane/stack of pieces. After
gluing up all the stack, rip it down the center - yielding two
"halves" the length of the cane. Now take those two halves
and glue them to the long strip of plywood and let dry/cure
well. This will create a "ply spine" down the length of the
cane - most likely reducing the "whipping" as you turn the
shaft. If you still have more flex than you like, repeat the
rip down the middle of the cane - only this time rip it so the
nest ply strip is glued at 90 degrees off of the first strip.
You should now have 4 "quadrants if you look down the
shaft/cane from either end. You will now have "almost" two
backbones down the cane's length. Now finish turning the
shaft. You should have a lot less flex now.
Let us know how it "turns" out. (Pun intended!)
Mac
------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----Original Message-----
From: CURTIS GEORGE
Sent: Jun 25, 2016 3:47 PM
To: Legacy-Ornamental-Mills
Subject: Project idea, trail and Error.
Hello Everyone.
Here is a project that I just wanted to try out, I glued
it up over the week, and let it fully dry, today I started
the turning.
What you are looking at is, end grain used on a walking
stick, with an All thread rod as the center/spine. of this
rod. THe idea is/was to use end grain wood for walking
sticks, the rod would add strength and make it easy to
add on the handle and foot, once done.
I had a lot of scraps in the old storage bin,
Teak,Mahogany,and some kind of neat looking pallet wood
for central america. all cut into squares and drilled out
to fit onto a 3/8" steel all thread rod.
The problem quickly was I,D,d . the center flexed a lot
when being turned on the Legacy, even at the slow speed of
the Legacy, the wood flexed. I tried to use my center
support brace to keep the flexing, but sadly after trying
every trick that I could think of , the flex won out. This
is much thinner than I had planed, The end grain looks
really nice, but I need to find a better material for the
spine.
Dose any one have any ideas???
Any and All ideas are (as always.) welcome.
Have a Great weekend.
C.A.G.
[image/jpeg:IMG_6923.JPG]
[image/jpeg:IMG_6924.JPG]
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