Re: [Liveaboard] Expensive Marine Elect components

2012-07-02 Thread SteveW
Norm, I tried googling the FDU-2 but just came up with a bunch of graduation 
photo's on YouTube.  But when I googled the BRCU20-2 Google brought me to 
these guys.  They're a Western US chain so at least you're talking about 
domestic UPS shipping or something.  Has to be less than the $200 shipping 
the Canadian company quoted.

http://www.platt.com/search.aspx?q=brcu20-2

Steve Weinstein
S/V CAPTIVA
1997 Hunter 376, Hull #376
Sailing out of Oyster Bay, NY



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-Original Message- 
From: Norm
Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2012 7:42 PM
To: liveaboard@liveaboardonline.com
Subject: Re: [Liveaboard] Expensive Marine Elect components


Ahoy All,

I am having problems locating an electrical box in the States that seems to
be a common item in Canada.

ebhorsman.com shows a bunch of stores southwestern Canada.

The item is a two-gang, deep, blank (no holes for wires) plastic outlet box.
Could be used for two switches or outlets and is extra deep at 3.
Surface mount with four mounting tabs on the back.

Model is FDU-2 (another model name: 077649).

I need three each with blank covers, BRCU20-2 (or 077359).

I did talk to the e b horsman company and was told that shipping would be at
least $200!

Can anyone help me?


Norm
S/V Bandersnatch
Lying Julington Creek FL
30 23.8N 081 25.7W

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Re: [Liveaboard] Expensive Marine Elect components

2012-07-02 Thread Al Thomason
Soap will attract moisture, and hence promote rot.  Soap is a land-based
carpenters trick and works well there, but on a boat not such a good idea.

Get a 'wax toilet' ring and you will have all the lubricant you need for a
very long time.

-al-


-Original Message-
From: liveaboard-boun...@liveaboardonline.com
[mailto:liveaboard-boun...@liveaboardonline.com] On Behalf Of Norm
Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2012 8:26 AM
To: liveaboard@liveaboardonline.com
Subject: Re: [Liveaboard] Expensive Marine Elect components

Ahoy Gentlemen,


I read somewhere that soap has ingredients that damage wood; beeswax or
paraffin is better 
 SNIP

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Re: [Liveaboard] Expensive Marine Elect components

2012-07-02 Thread Philip
I use the stub from a bees wax candle for wood screws and anhydrous
lanolin (Lanacote) for stainless into aluminum and just about anything
that screws together that I might want to take apart later. 
 
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Re: [Liveaboard] Expensive Marine Elect components

2012-07-02 Thread Ben Okopnik
On Mon, Jul 02, 2012 at 12:42:53PM -0700, Al Thomason wrote:
 Soap will attract moisture, and hence promote rot.  Soap is a land-based
 carpenters trick and works well there, but on a boat not such a good idea.

In theory, yes. In practice? We're talking about an essentially
invisible coating of soap on a screw... somewhere between a milligram
and a microgram total. The amount of water it would attract is less than
the amount that you'll exhale onto that screw while driving it.
 
I've used soap, WD-40, and a number of other things I've forgotten -
probably wax at some point, since I have it for zipper lube.  *Any* kind
of lube will do; the point is to use some in this situation. The type
doesn't really matter.


Ben
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Re: [Liveaboard] Expensive Marine Elect components

2012-07-01 Thread SteveW
thanks for everyone's feedback and expertise on this topic.  I bit the 
bullet and purchased the 50A, 120/240V dockside to two 30A ship side Y 
splitters.  According to Marinco, this will do the job should I find myself 
in a slip with 50A dockside power.  The issue is that, evidently there are 
TWO types of dockside 50A service!  Most newer marinas, or those with slips 
for larger yachts have the 120/240 50A pedestals.

However, and here's the rub, the older 50A pedestals are wired for just 
50A-120V service, and not the 50A-120/240V service.  And naturally, they've 
got different plugs.

Since nobody except the marine industry uses these kinds of plugs, I'm back 
to square one in trying to find an inexpensive adapter which would let me 
use my 50A-120/240V plug in a 50A-120V older pedestal/service.

From what I can tell, I should be okay except for older (or smaller) 
marinas.  And the reality is that since we usually anchor out and rarely 
head into a slip while cruising, we've only run across this scenario once or 
twice a season - if that.  Most of the time, on those rare occasions when we 
do find ourselves in a slip, it's served by a 30A pedestal so we're good.

If there's only one 30A plug then we plug into ship-side Bus-1 and panel 
flip the breakers to parallel Bus-1 and Bus-2 and run the a/c (along with 
everything else) without issues.  If there are two 30A pedestal plugs then 
we use two cords, one to Bus-1 and one to Bus-2 which lets us keep the a/c 
going and at the same time run the water tank heater element.  If we're 
paralleling the buses with only one cord to the boat then it's and either/or 
situation between the water tank element or the a/c and the a/c wins every 
time and we'll use the showers at wherever we've pulled in.



Steve Weinstein
S/V CAPTIVA
1997 Hunter 376, Hull #376
Sailing out of Oyster Bay, NY



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-Original Message- 
From: Bob Johnson
Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2012 7:16 AM
To: liveaboard@liveaboardonline.com
Subject: Re: [Liveaboard] Expensive Marine Elect components

Here is a link to a chart of all the options
http://www.elecordset.com/twistlockplugs-powercordsets.aspx . WW Grainger
has them here
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/twist-lock-devices/plugs-and-receptacles/el
ectrical/ecatalog/N-8dp

Bob
PDQ 36
Peace

-Original Message-
From: liveaboard-boun...@liveaboardonline.com
[mailto:liveaboard-boun...@liveaboardonline.com] On Behalf Of SteveW
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2012 11:55 PM
To: liveaboard@liveaboardonline.com
Subject: Re: [Liveaboard] Expensive Marine Elect components

Well, Ben, I stopped by the HD and there was absolutely nothing resembling
anything that would match up with the prongs on the male end (the 50A
pedestal side).  The guy working the electric department happened to own a
boat so he, at least, knew what the hell I was talking about.  Guess what
his recommendation was - look it up in a Marinco or West Marine catalog...

So I figured I completed the circle and am now back where I started from.

Fortunately I don't get slips a lot when cruising (I prefer my own hook or a
mooring ball) but from asking around I'm getting the impression that most
marinas - at least in my cruising area (L.I. Sound, Block, Newport, P-town,
etc.) - all have 50A 120/240V pedestals.  I'll keep it on board for the
just in cases but for the most part, over the years I've been able to get
into slips with 30A service.

But enough of this. we're heading out Monday for the week and, at least
at this point, aren't planning on any marinas

Steve Weinstein
S/V CAPTIVA
1997 Hunter 376, Hull #376
Sailing out of Oyster Bay, NY



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-Original Message-
From: Ben Okopnik
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2012 10:14 PM
To: liveaboard@liveaboardonline.com
Subject: Re: [Liveaboard] Expensive Marine Elect components

On Fri, Jun 29, 2012 at 09:24:03AM -0400, SteveW wrote:
 As it turns out, Ben, I'm sneaking out of the office early this
 afternoon to go to the boat to some some maintenance (replacing the
 stock water pump) and there's a Home Depot 10 minutes from the yard.
 I'll stop in and cruise their electric department to see what they've
 got.  Good recommendation!

Good luck - I hope the plug that I remember is the one that fits your needs!


Ben
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Re: [Liveaboard] Expensive Marine Elect components

2012-07-01 Thread John Sexton
How about the option of not stopping at those marinas? If enough people 
avoid them, they might either modernize or have spare adapter available 
for no charge.


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Re: [Liveaboard] Expensive Marine Elect components

2012-07-01 Thread Norm
Ahoy Gentlemen,


I read somewhere that soap has ingredients that damage wood; beeswax or 
paraffin is better.  Personally, I use wax wire that is used by jewelers to 
make sprues when casting by lost wax method.  It comes in spools like safety 
wire.  I get it from Jan but you can buy it from Rio Grande jewelry supply. 
They also sell a stick of wax jewelers use to lubricate their saw blades.  I 
always drill pilot and clearance holes and put a little piece of the wax 
wire into the hole before setting the screw.  I found that if I just rub wax 
on the screw threads it gets wiped off as the screw goes into the wood.   I 
use stainless sheet metal screws for wood fasteners.

I got my gallon of Moly Dee (not Moly-B) years ago while in Charleston from 
a supply house in Colombia SC but I just Googled it and the following URL 
has it for $18 for a 16 oz can.

http://www.nolansupply.com/bysubcategory.asp?category=Fluids+and+Lubessupercategory=Tapping+Fluidssubcategory=Moly-Dee+Tapping+Fluidtype=Falsespecs=True

Welding through a nut is a new one for me, thanks Steve.



We should start a collection of these tips:  The Livaboard List Book of 
Wisdom

Moly-Dee and wire wax have done well for me.

How about tying a knot in the positive wire, (or a red tie wrap if it is too 
big for a knot).

The wire spacer method for making a perfect form-in-place gasket.

A paragraph or three on diesel fuel systems.

I wonder if there is a way to have an on-line data base that we could simply 
add to, like Wikipedia?


--


Driving screws into a bar of soap before putting them in wood, welding 
through a nut to put a head
onto a broken bolt, waxing a saw blade, using monkey dung for holding
any screw to a screwdriver and using Moly-B to drill stainless...
thousands of these things that make up a very solid base of knowledge,
and I'm truly grateful to all those blue-collar wizards.

(Which reminds me - thanks again for the lifetime supply of Moly-B,
Norm! I was wondering where I could find some...)

Steve W 

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Re: [Liveaboard] Expensive Marine Elect components

2012-07-01 Thread Ben Okopnik
On Sun, Jul 01, 2012 at 11:26:07AM -0400, Norm wrote:
 
 How about tying a knot in the positive wire, (or a red tie wrap if it is too 
 big for a knot).

Doesn't that confuse them little electron thingies running through them
wires? I mean, I thought that's what DIRECT current meant - ya gotta
keep them wires as straight as you can!

Also, don't set your batteries on the ground, or even concrete. That
GROUNDS THEM OUT, and then they won't be any good. Kinda like snap peas
towards the end of the harvest - all wrinkly and limp, and not much
flavor...

(Maybe we should start a Bad Advice wiki, too. :)

 I wonder if there is a way to have an on-line data base that we could simply 
 add to, like Wikipedia?

Easy enough:

http://okopnik.com/LAwiki

Your last post has been added under Mechanical Tips. Anyone who would
like to add to the Wiki, please contact me for a password. :)


Ben
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Re: [Liveaboard] Expensive Marine Elect components

2012-07-01 Thread Ben Okopnik
On Sun, Jul 01, 2012 at 11:28:38AM -0400, Norm wrote:
 
 Sorry Ben.  I just discovered I attributed your text of wisdom to Steve...
 
 I get so much of that from the List I get confused sometimes

No worries - it's all good. Long as the info gets out there. :)

Actually, I remember where I got that particular bit of info - and even
more importantly, how it changed my thinking. Back in my car-racing
days, I had snapped off a hardened stud in a freshly-blueprinted Chevy
engine block, and was frantically picking over the possibilities for
getting it out: Nope, No Way, and YOU LOSE, SUCKER!!! After a few days
of this, I dragged it over to a machine shop, hoping against hope that
they might have some magic tool that I'd never heard of, and that they
wouldn't charge me more than a couple of hundred bucks... and the guy
acted like it was nothing at all. Flipped on the buzz box, dropped a nut
on top of the hole (the stud had actually snapped below the surface),
and welded it right to the stub. A couple of quick turns with the
wrench, and out it came.

When it comes to wrenching on mechanical bits, we tend to think in terms
of subtractive action: cut, file, drill, grind. The additive stuff
beyond screw this to that - roll-pinning, shaft keys, Heli-Coils,
friction-fitting, welding - doesn't normally come to mind, for most
folks. My take-home from this episode was, don't forget about the
additive stuff. *Lots* of good solutions in that direction.


Ben
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Re: [Liveaboard] Expensive Marine Elect components

2012-07-01 Thread Craig
Wow Ben, That's a nice thing to do for the group.  I hope the posts will
explain the whys as well, such as, why tie a knot in the positive wire,
and what does wax do for wood screws, or why does placing a battery on the
ground or concrete ground them out?

Craig Scott  AE6E
S/V Savor Grace
Searunner 37
The world is a dangerous place to live, not because of the people who are
evil, but because of the people who don’t do anything about it.  Albert
Einstein
_


-Original Message-
From: liveaboard-boun...@liveaboardonline.com
[mailto:liveaboard-boun...@liveaboardonline.com] On Behalf Of Ben Okopnik
Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2012 13:27
To: liveaboard@liveaboardonline.com
Subject: Re: [Liveaboard] Expensive Marine Elect components

On Sun, Jul 01, 2012 at 11:26:07AM -0400, Norm wrote:
 
 How about tying a knot in the positive wire, (or a red tie wrap if it is
too 
 big for a knot).

Doesn't that confuse them little electron thingies running through them
wires? I mean, I thought that's what DIRECT current meant - ya gotta
keep them wires as straight as you can!

Also, don't set your batteries on the ground, or even concrete. That
GROUNDS THEM OUT, and then they won't be any good. Kinda like snap peas
towards the end of the harvest - all wrinkly and limp, and not much
flavor...

(Maybe we should start a Bad Advice wiki, too. :)

 I wonder if there is a way to have an on-line data base that we could
simply 
 add to, like Wikipedia?

Easy enough:

http://okopnik.com/LAwiki

Your last post has been added under Mechanical Tips. Anyone who would
like to add to the Wiki, please contact me for a password. :)


Ben
-- 
   OKOPNIK CONSULTING
Custom Computing Solutions For Your Business
Expert-led Training | Dynamic, vital websites | Custom programming
  443-250-7895   http://okopnik.com   http://twitter.com/okopnik
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Re: [Liveaboard] Expensive Marine Elect components

2012-07-01 Thread Ben Okopnik
On Sun, Jul 01, 2012 at 02:08:27PM -0400, Craig wrote:
 Wow Ben, That's a nice thing to do for the group.

Thanks! There are lots of benefits to running your own server, and it's
nice to be able to contribute.

 I hope the posts will
 explain the whys as well, such as, why tie a knot in the positive wire,
 and what does wax do for wood screws, or why does placing a battery on the
 ground or concrete ground them out?

Good idea! (That last bit was a joke, though. It's a common
misunderstanding among shade-tree mechanics, and I suspect it comes from
confusing the two unrelated meanings of grounded...)


Ben
-- 
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Re: [Liveaboard] Expensive Marine Elect components

2012-07-01 Thread SteveW
Love to - but sometimes due to other factors we'll end up at one - usually, 
though, we prefer to anchor out.  On those rare occasions where we do pull 
into a marina, I'd say 99% of the time they've got 30A pedestals and we're 
good.

Steve Weinstein
S/V CAPTIVA
1997 Hunter 376, Hull #376
Sailing out of Oyster Bay, NY



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-Original Message- 
From: John Sexton
Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2012 11:08 AM
To: liveaboard@liveaboardonline.com
Subject: Re: [Liveaboard] Expensive Marine Elect components

How about the option of not stopping at those marinas? If enough people
avoid them, they might either modernize or have spare adapter available
for no charge.


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Re: [Liveaboard] Expensive Marine Elect components

2012-07-01 Thread SteveW
Wait 'till you get to my age, Norm!  The Sr. Moments seem to be getting 
strung together closer and closer!

Steve Weinstein
S/V CAPTIVA
1997 Hunter 376, Hull #376
Sailing out of Oyster Bay, NY



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-Original Message- 
From: Norm
Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2012 11:28 AM
To: liveaboard@liveaboardonline.com
Subject: Re: [Liveaboard] Expensive Marine Elect components


Sorry Ben.  I just discovered I attributed your text of wisdom to Steve...

I get so much of that from the List I get confused sometimes


Norm
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Re: [Liveaboard] Expensive Marine Elect components

2012-06-30 Thread gmbeasley
On Sat, 30 Jun 2012 12:26:56 -0400, you wrote:

Bob got the plugs and made his own splitter five or six years ago
because of the same problem with 50 amp service.  More of a problem
for us because we have a big boat and a lot of big slips are for the
big power boats..  

He says he does not remember where he got the plugs from.  He told me
just now how he did it, but I'm not going to risk writing it down
because I didn't understand what he said.  He is saying he got the
wire from a consignment shop or something.  My memory is that he got
it in Titusville but I could be wrong.   It's a big fat yellow thing.
Then he made the splitter with plugs on each end.

On Fri, Jun 29, 2012 at 11:55:02PM -0400, SteveW wrote:
 Well, Ben, I stopped by the HD and there was absolutely nothing resembling 
 anything that would match up with the prongs on the male end (the 50A 
 pedestal side).

Oh, well. Like I said, it's been a mort of years, so I don't recall
exactly which plug/socket pair it was - 30A? 50A? 125V? 250V? All I
remember is that the plug that HD sold me had the tab (the little bent
piece on one of the prongs) on the opposite side of the prong from the
one that the marine socket wanted. Otherwise, the pattern and the
diameter were just right. I filed off the tab, and it fit like a champ.

 The guy working the electric department happened to own a 
 boat so he, at least, knew what the hell I was talking about.  Guess what 
 his recommendation was - look it up in a Marinco or West Marine catalog... 
 So I figured I completed the circle and am now back where I started from.

[laugh] I'd say that we talked to the same guy, except that mine was in
St. Augustine FL. Sadly, it's _very_ rare these days to find anyone
behind a counter that knows what he's talking about... damn shame, since
I got a lot of the best tips, mechanical and otherwise, from old guys in
little hardware stores and machine shops. Driving screws into a bar of
soap before putting them in wood, welding through a nut to put a head
onto a broken bolt, waxing a saw blade, using monkey dung for holding
any screw to a screwdriver and using Moly-B to drill stainless...
thousands of these things that make up a very solid base of knowledge,
and I'm truly grateful to all those blue-collar wizards.
 
(Which reminds me - thanks again for the lifetime supply of Moly-B,
Norm! I was wondering where I could find some...)

 Fortunately I don't get slips a lot when cruising (I prefer my own hook or a 
 mooring ball) but from asking around I'm getting the impression that most 
 marinas - at least in my cruising area (L.I. Sound, Block, Newport, P-town, 
 etc.) - all have 50A 120/240V pedestals.  I'll keep it on board for the 
 just in cases but for the most part, over the years I've been able to get 
 into slips with 30A service.

Be sure to keep those pigtails and adapters locked up tight; they have a
way of growing legs, I'm told.
 
 But enough of this. we're heading out Monday for the week and, at least 
 at this point, aren't planning on any marinas

Enjoy! I've got a ton of stuff to do on my boat before it's fully
cruise-ready, and I'm chasing all that stuff down at full speed. Already
did one major project today, another one - installing the Balmar
regulator (mostly, finding space to install that bugger!) coming right
up.


Ben

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Re: [Liveaboard] Expensive Marine Elect components

2012-06-29 Thread SteveW
Well, Ben, I stopped by the HD and there was absolutely nothing resembling 
anything that would match up with the prongs on the male end (the 50A 
pedestal side).  The guy working the electric department happened to own a 
boat so he, at least, knew what the hell I was talking about.  Guess what 
his recommendation was - look it up in a Marinco or West Marine catalog... 
So I figured I completed the circle and am now back where I started from.

Fortunately I don't get slips a lot when cruising (I prefer my own hook or a 
mooring ball) but from asking around I'm getting the impression that most 
marinas - at least in my cruising area (L.I. Sound, Block, Newport, P-town, 
etc.) - all have 50A 120/240V pedestals.  I'll keep it on board for the 
just in cases but for the most part, over the years I've been able to get 
into slips with 30A service.

But enough of this. we're heading out Monday for the week and, at least 
at this point, aren't planning on any marinas

Steve Weinstein
S/V CAPTIVA
1997 Hunter 376, Hull #376
Sailing out of Oyster Bay, NY



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-Original Message- 
From: Ben Okopnik
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2012 10:14 PM
To: liveaboard@liveaboardonline.com
Subject: Re: [Liveaboard] Expensive Marine Elect components

On Fri, Jun 29, 2012 at 09:24:03AM -0400, SteveW wrote:
 As it turns out, Ben, I'm sneaking out of the office early this afternoon 
 to
 go to the boat to some some maintenance (replacing the stock water pump) 
 and
 there's a Home Depot 10 minutes from the yard. I'll stop in and cruise 
 their
 electric department to see what they've got.  Good recommendation!

Good luck - I hope the plug that I remember is the one that fits your
needs!


Ben
-- 
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