MD: musique: third party PC-MDLK software found!
Hi, As the OpenSlink Project webmaster (http://insflug.org/slink) I recently received an email from Didier Boursin, [EMAIL PROTECTED] the original "discoverer" of a very interesting program for CAV-50 owners: musique (http://www.eqjr.com/musique) This program uses the CAV-50, it seems it even could use older CAV-1/2 units, and targets what the tipical CD changers/minidisc/PC users would like to do: CD management, with cover, CDDB, "truly" random playing, MD/MP3 integration, etc. It seems it has some minidisc integration already, or to be in the works. It has a shareware license, with a free, feature-locked version and a registered ($50 USD, $75 CAD) version. I guess this program will bright the future of CAV-50 units owners. mmm, well, I should say almost; the drawback: is only available in French :( So if after fighting with babelfish.altavista.com you find the software interesting, please drop a note to the author about your interest of having it in English. It would be nice to have a review from a French-speaking list mate... regards, *---(*)---**-- Francisco J. Montilla - System Network admin - Seville - Spain pacopepeATinsflug.org - irc: pukka - Coordinador INSFLUG (insflug.org) DoQmail: qmail en castellano es.qmail.org - OpenSlink Project: slink.org - To stop getting this list send a message containing just the word "unsubscribe" to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
MD: Another april fools thing
This email was delivered to you by The Free Internet, a Business Online Group company. http://www.thefreeinternet.net --- So you thought the MZR-9000 was daft, wait till ya see this! http://www.minidisc.org/mztst1.html -- Stuart Howlette "There are many questions in life, but is the right answer only correct because the majority believe in it?" [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://minidisc.sphosting.com http://minidisc.sphosting.com/personal/ -- - To stop getting this list send a message containing just the word "unsubscribe" to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: MD: MZ-R70, Best Earbuds
las [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: There seems to be a unanimous opinion that the Etymotic ear plugs are the finest you can get and many people believe that they are even better than any of the full sized headphones. But at $269.00 (USD), there must be a set costing under $100 that some one makes that are close?? Nope, not even ;) Seriously... $269 seems a kind of outrageous price to me for a set of headphones! You can buy a very decent pair of speakers for that price. Just as you can buy a $3000 pair of speakers that will sound amazingly better than a $300 pair of speakers, you can buy a $269 set of headphones that will sound amazingly better than a $50 pair. I personally owned a pair of Etymotics for a few years, and I can say that apart from the Sennheiser 580s (full-sized headphones that used to retail for $300, but are now around $175), I've never heard a pair of headphones come close to the detail, accuracy, and simply *enjoyable* sound produced by the Etymotics. I made an impulse purchase of a par of Koss ear buds that have these soft "rubber" cones that slide over a tube and cost $19.99. I can't remember the name They are yellow, black and blue with a mute switch (why not a true volume control?). In my opinion they sound really bad and are only suitable for spoken word. Yes, those are "The Plug" -- simply one of the worst headphones on the market. Headwize has a tutorial for how to improve the sound by replacing the earbud pads, but even after that they are still not worth the cost of the new earpads, IMO ;) But there must be something out there for about $75 dollars that comes close the the $269.00 Etymotics?? NO?? Well, not "close" but there are several that are pretty good. The consensus is that the next-best earbuds are the Sony 888s, at around US $75. They don't isolate external sound at all (the Etymotics block EVERYTHING), but they have very good sound for earbuds. After the 888s, the "next-best" really depend on your needs. If you need isolation, the Sony EX-70 (around US $40) are the way to go. They have a pretty good seal on your ear, and good sound, including impressive bass. The highs are a bit unbalanced, and for some people the bass is a bit overemphasized, but nonetheless the sound is quite good. If you do not need isolation, go with the Sennheiser MX-500 (US $20). These have better overall sound than the EX-70s, but don't provide the same isolation or extra bass response. Apart from the four models listed above, I personally wouldn't buy any other earbud -- because of their physical limitations, it's difficult to build an earbud that actually produces good sound. - To stop getting this list send a message containing just the word "unsubscribe" to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: MD: MZ-R70, Best Earbuds
There seems to be a unanimous opinion that the Etymotic ear plugs are the finest you can get and many people believe that they are even better than any of the full sized headphones. But at $269.00 (USD), there must be a set Nope. They are **that** good. The closest thing to great sound you might get for 100 USD are the Grado 60s ($70), the Grado 80s ($95), or the Sennhesier 495s ($95). The closest thing you can get for less than the Etys price are the Sennhesier 580s ($199). But don't expect anything near what the Etymotics can offer. Francisco. - To stop getting this list send a message containing just the word "unsubscribe" to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
MD: SBLive - TOSlink
Hi, I've done a lot of research on the web regarding building a converter circuit for the SBLive's digital output into optical, and I've been running into obstacles that I was hoping someone here might have already hit. My conclusion is that it's easier with the Value card than the original, due to the digital I/O daughterboard blocking the S/PDIF pins on the board! I've looked on the board to see if there's a TTL digital output there (I don't think there is), so it seems I'll have to use a cable from the back of the digital daughterboard. My questions are: 1) Does anyone know the voltage output by the S/PDIF coaxial connector on the back of the daughterboard? I saw somewhere that it was non-standard in that it's 5V, which would be useful in the connector circuit (no need for half of the conversion!), though standard S/PDIF is 500mV, which needs modifying. 2) Has anyone attempted to do this on a SBLive before? Any tips? Where did you get your components and what circuit did you use? I have researched buying a separate board from places like Hoontech, but I'm in the UK so I don't know if there are many distributors nearby, and I'm also a student, so 20-40 UKP is still a lot of money to me. So any advice would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks in advance. Regards, Rich - To stop getting this list send a message containing just the word "unsubscribe" to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: MD: Another april fools thing
=== = NB: Over 50% of this message is QUOTED, please = = be more selective when quoting text = === LOL ! As long as whoever reads it doesn't understand Japanese! :-) Leon on 4/2/01 8:06 AM, Stuart Howlette at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: This email was delivered to you by The Free Internet, a Business Online Group company. http://www.thefreeinternet.net --- So you thought the MZR-9000 was daft, wait till ya see this! http://www.minidisc.org/mztst1.html -- Stuart Howlette "There are many questions in life, but is the right answer only correct because the majority believe in it?" [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://minidisc.sphosting.com http://minidisc.sphosting.com/personal/ -- - To stop getting this list send a message containing just the word "unsubscribe" to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To stop getting this list send a message containing just the word "unsubscribe" to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
MD: SOny jE520 wirdness
Had aproblem with my sony 520 the other day It was playing, then the audio the counter stopped, it sat there for a minute or so then went in to standby. I couldn't turn it back on, tried unplugging and thing's, still wouldn't turn on (It would go in to service mode though) even tried a different wall socket still nothing. Eventually from frustration ended up trying the old tried and tested method for delicate electrical items. Picked it up and dropped it, at which point it powered up and had been fine so far since. Just wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem, or knows why this may have happened. cheers --matt [EMAIL PROTECTED] - To stop getting this list send a message containing just the word "unsubscribe" to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
