Re: [MBZ] loose air cleaner, W123 300D/ my $0.02/ check your mounts

2007-10-20 Thread Wray Stanley
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 One other thing, aftermarket mounts are cheap (I just saw two for $27 on  
 Ebay), but many will not last two years, hotter climates being tougher on 
 rubber  
 components, on average.  Don't cheap out here!  

I'll second that. I had approx 3 years/50K miles on a set of after 
market mounts in the '87 300D when engine vibration noticeably 
increased. One mount was totally callopsed, the other

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Re: [MBZ] loose air cleaner, W123 300D/ my $0.02/ check your mounts

2007-10-20 Thread Wray Stanley
Wray Stanley wrote:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 One other thing, aftermarket mounts are cheap (I just saw two for $27 
 on  Ebay), but many will not last two years, hotter climates being 
 tougher on rubber  components, on average.  Don't cheap out here!  
 
 I'll second that. I had approx 3 years/50K miles on a set of after 
 market mounts in the '87 300D when engine vibration noticeably 
 increased. One mount was totally callopsed, the other
 
Pardon this premature posting. Meant to hit Spell. Never could spell 
collapsed

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Re: [MBZ] loose air cleaner, W123 300D/ my $0.02/ check your mounts

2007-10-20 Thread Wray Stanley
Wray Stanley wrote:
 Wray Stanley wrote:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 One other thing, aftermarket mounts are cheap (I just saw two for $27 
 on  Ebay), but many will not last two years, hotter climates being 
 tougher on rubber  components, on average.  Don't cheap out here!  

 I'll second that. I had approx 3 years/50K miles on a set of after 
 market mounts in the '87 300D when engine vibration noticeably 
 increased. One mount was totally callopsed, the other

 Pardon this premature posting. Meant to hit Spell. Never could spell 
 collapsed
 
One more time

Pardon this premature posting. Meant to hit Spell. Never could spell
collapsed.

I'll second that. I had approx 3 years/50K miles on a set of after
market mounts in the '87 300D when engine vibration noticeably
increased. One mount was totally collapsed, the other had dropped 1/2.

Installed factory mounts at twice the price.

Wray

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[MBZ] Great Lakes car ads

2007-10-20 Thread Mitch Haley
Why those wheels?
http://www.auto-rv.com/browse.aspx?AdName=CM2361503

91 350sdl, dealer, $5695
http://www.auto-rv.com/browse.aspx?AdName=BMI2361656D

87 635CSi 133k. auto, $4900
http://www.auto-rv.com/browse.aspx?AdName=CLKIHM807081

clean flood title - does that qualify for joke of the month?
S430, $14,000
http://www.auto-rv.com/browse.aspx?AdName=BMLIH2361636D

87 SDL, 170k, $6900
http://auto-rv.com/browse.aspx?AdName=BMIH2191637D

85 500SL, 96k, $12900
http://www.auto-rv.com/browse.aspx?AdName=BMWLKITEH2350424

72 250C $8750
http://www.auto-rv.com/browse.aspx?AdName=CHMLI2260082

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Re: [MBZ] Salvage door desiderata (MY 300 SD got hit)

2007-10-20 Thread Robert Bigham
Fri, 19 Oct 2007 18:33:08 -0700
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]wrote
Subject: Re: [MBZ] MY 1985 300SD got hit ...
 
 They are recommending finding a salvage door.
 Out side of inspecting the door before it is 'messed with' (to be sure 
 it is cancer free), any suggestions?
___ 
Get one the same color as original, that'll minimize repaint problems.
 ___
-- Jim
 ___

Hello Jim

I agree.  It sounds like the most reasonable of notions.

I also offer that when I tried for several months to find a 123 sedan
driver's door 
painted Astral Silver Poly, a color that was used for many years (And it
seems like 
I meet a different 123 painted that color on the road maybe twice weekly.),
the 
persons with whom I corresponded (and a Want it Now on ebay) produced 
nothing but doors painted blue, white, and other colors.  And they were all
shells
only, no hardware or glass.  

Clearly, some of the people thought I must be crazy to want a used door
already 
painted my color.  

Color change would have cost maybe $150 at my favorite body shop.  I gave up
and repaired minor rust on the old door.

I hope George has better luck than I.  
 
Robert 




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Re: [MBZ] extended cranking e320

2007-10-20 Thread Curt Raymond

A few years ago I had trouble with my Dodge Dakota like this. I got lots of 
advice including it must just start hard that I didn't like.
Finally somebody decided to replace the fuel pump (this was right around 
100,000 as I remember). Apparently theres a check valve inside the fuel pump on 
that truck that keeps it from draining everything back into the tank.
After that its back the way it was starting as easy as could be.

Maybe try turning the key to on and leaving it for 15-20 seconds and see if 
that makes it easier to start. AFAIK in many cars on will trigger the fuel pump 
and pressurize the system.

-Curt

Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2007 08:35:26 -0400
From: Dave Wakin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] extended cranking e320
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
 reply-type=original

My 1997 e320 is taking more cranking to start lately. Has 133K and I
 changed 
the plugs a few hundred miles ago, old plugs looked good. Any ideas on
 what 
may be causing it to take more cranks to start? This morning I turned
 it 
over for about 10 seconds before it started.

Some ideas I had are fuel filter, as well as the security device in the
 key. 
The car will not start with a valet key, needs to be the fob so I guess
 
there is a sensor near the ignition. Perhaps my fob battery is low,
 although 
it opens/closes the doors just fine.


Dave Wakin

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Re: [MBZ] Fix or Sell

2007-10-20 Thread Renato Salles
David Johson wrote:

... I hate to say to her that this is really the last big-ticket item,
and then the next day something else comes up.

How many of us are in the same situation? We fix, fix, and it's never
fixed! Well, it's the Mercedes-Benz way of life...

For a daily user basis, a pre-85 Mercedes does or doesn't worth 
never-ending fixings?

Second question: wich is the best choice: a '85-'90 or the '90-95' year 
series? In the gas area, I've found a M-104 E-Klass the less expensive 
to have in maintenance terms.

And David, i think it doesn't worth the money, sell the car and get a 
newer model.

RSalles



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[MBZ] climate control

2007-10-20 Thread jgiels
I have been lurking for quite some time and now have decided to repair my 1980 
300D climate control, for the longest time it would only deliver defrost. The 
car would not turn off with the green vacuum line connected under the hood. 

I have removed and replace the push button and temp wheel. Now that is done the 
car turns off normally with the green vacuum line connected I am able to select 
the different push button selectors, with the correct air moving out of the 
vents. (floor, side vents, defrost vents) Now the problem is that it is always 
calling for heat I put another temp wheel in with the same results. 

I need help with what is calling for heat! 

TIA Douglas. 
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Re: [MBZ] Euro plates

2007-10-20 Thread Chuck Landenberger
Hi Guys,

Like I said earlier.  I live in AZ w/a rear plate only!  So, here's  
what my two cars look like.  Hope the pic will get thru Kaleb's  
filter!  Probably too big at 200kb!

I like the looks..  But, that's just my opinion and I don't think  
it's pretentious

Take care,

Chuck

  
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Re: [MBZ] Salvage door desiderata (MY 300 SD got hit)

2007-10-20 Thread Tom Hargrave
The other issue with a door painted the same color is it really is not the
same color. Two things drive this:

1. Color mixing varies from batch to batch, within accepted tolerances. A
color painted this week will be slightly different from a color painted last
week. There is no problem with cars coming off the assembly line but you
can't mix and match body panels without doing a color comparison first.

2. Paints age and fade differently due to different exposure to UV (garage
kept, not garage kept, northern car, southern car, etc).

This is why your local body shop has to have every car matched for paint 
why they can't just order paint part number XXX from the Stealership. Even
factory replacement parts are painted after they are installed on your car.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Robert Bigham
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2007 8:39 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Salvage door desiderata (MY 300 SD got hit)

Fri, 19 Oct 2007 18:33:08 -0700
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]wrote
Subject: Re: [MBZ] MY 1985 300SD got hit ...
 
 They are recommending finding a salvage door.
 Out side of inspecting the door before it is 'messed with' (to be sure 
 it is cancer free), any suggestions?
___ 
Get one the same color as original, that'll minimize repaint problems.
 ___
-- Jim
 ___

Hello Jim

I agree.  It sounds like the most reasonable of notions.

I also offer that when I tried for several months to find a 123 sedan
driver's door 
painted Astral Silver Poly, a color that was used for many years (And it
seems like 
I meet a different 123 painted that color on the road maybe twice weekly.),
the 
persons with whom I corresponded (and a Want it Now on ebay) produced 
nothing but doors painted blue, white, and other colors.  And they were all
shells
only, no hardware or glass.  

Clearly, some of the people thought I must be crazy to want a used door
already 
painted my color.  

Color change would have cost maybe $150 at my favorite body shop.  I gave up
and repaired minor rust on the old door.

I hope George has better luck than I.  
 
Robert 




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Re: [MBZ] Fix or Sell

2007-10-20 Thread Tom Hargrave
These are the Mercedes I like to buy. Usually the owner gives up after a
big ticket item and I drive the car for 150,000 miles, which is about 3
years for me.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Renato Salles
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2007 3:22 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fix or Sell

David Johson wrote:

... I hate to say to her that this is really the last big-ticket item,
and then the next day something else comes up.

How many of us are in the same situation? We fix, fix, and it's never
fixed! Well, it's the Mercedes-Benz way of life...

For a daily user basis, a pre-85 Mercedes does or doesn't worth 
never-ending fixings?

Second question: wich is the best choice: a '85-'90 or the '90-95' year 
series? In the gas area, I've found a M-104 E-Klass the less expensive 
to have in maintenance terms.

And David, i think it doesn't worth the money, sell the car and get a 
newer model.

RSalles



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Re: [MBZ] Fix or Sell

2007-10-20 Thread Jim Cathey
 For a daily user basis, a pre-85 Mercedes does or doesn't worth
 never-ending fixings?

A brand-new car often ends up in the shop, sometimes a little,
sometimes a lot.  'Free', but there is still the PITA factor.

After a year or two you should be past that and coasting on
its newness.  For several years, effectively nothing beyond
routine maintenance.  If you require this in a vehicle, you
will just have to pony up and pay for it.

A neglected car, of any marque, will take some time to sort
out.  But unless it's a lemon things will eventually stabilize
down to a relatively small (average) expense per year, for the
indefinite future.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] climate control

2007-10-20 Thread Jim Cathey
 I have removed and replace the push button and temp wheel. Now that is 
 done the car turns off normally with the green vacuum line connected I 
 am able to select the different push button selectors, with the 
 correct air moving out of the vents. (floor, side vents, defrost 
 vents) Now the problem is that it is always calling for heat I put 
 another temp wheel in with the same results.

Even when totally dead the pushbutton array shouldn't be able to
sap vacuum to where the car wouldn't shut off.  Something else has
to be wrong, usually it's one of the vacuum pods that is leaking.

Heat that just won't quit is often the monovalve insert.  Four
screws and you can pull it out to see if the rubber diaphragm
is torn.  It needs +12V applied to shut off heat, that's also
an easy thing to check.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Salvage door desiderata (MY 300 SD got hit)

2007-10-20 Thread Jim Cathey
 The other issue with a door painted the same color is it
 really is not the same color.

Exactly.  Starting with the same color, though, means that
the usual (masking tape) repaint will still look decent, those
little bits inside that somehow get missed won't be jarringly
obvious.

If you want it to look like pre-damage condition you will
never be able to avoid repainting.  It's just a question of
how good the after-painting results will be, and/or how much
effort you're willing to expend to get there.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] MY 1985 300SD got hit ...

2007-10-20 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Then there is Okiebenz, who has plenty of doors available.

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  
 In a message dated 10/19/2007 9:53:57 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 
 They are  recommending finding a salvage door.
 Out side of inspecting the door before  it is 'messed with' (to be sure it is 
 cancer free), any  suggestions?
 
 
 
 
 You could try _www.car-parts.com_ (http://www.car-parts.com)  and  restrict 
 your search to your area/range  We have lots of 126 bodies in the  Phoenix 
 area 
 Upull lots.  They have half price days every week.  Check  your yellow pages 
 for local self service yards with similar programs
  
 Jim  Friesen
 Phoenix AZ
 79 300SD, 264 K miles 
 98 ML 320, 152 K  miles
 
 
 
 ** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
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-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  94 E420, 94 E320, 92 300SD, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic,
  91 300D, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Euro plates

2007-10-20 Thread Chuck Landenberger
Kaleb,

Thanks for pushing those pics down the pipe

Take care,

Chuck
Phoenix, AZ
On Oct 19, 2007, at 4:15 PM, Chuck Landenberger wrote:

 Hi Guys,

 Like I said earlier.  I live in AZ w/a rear plate only!  So, here's
 what my two cars look like.  Hope the pic will get thru Kaleb's
 filter!  Probably too big at 200kb!

 I like the looks..  But, that's just my opinion and I don't think
 it's pretentious

 Take care,

 Chuck


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Re: [MBZ] Cavalier

2007-10-20 Thread Curt Raymond

I'm not a fan of the Cavalier at all, especially since the early ones were 
garbage.
A friend has an '01 I think it is, nice enough car but plenty of stinkin little 
annoyances. I find the seats to be way too firm and the ride harsh.
Given the choice I'd have a Focus or Escort, assuming I had to stay in that 
size class. Neon is much like the Cavalier although more powerful.
Civic on the other hand, in my experience is 3x the car in comfort (although 
the seats are still a bit hard for my taste), ergonomics, economy and power.
This is mostly from driving rental cars. Nissan Sentra is (was? I had one in 
about '03) also a pretty decent little box.

All of them about as exciting as a toaster though, no, wait, the Civic was a 
blast...

-Curt

Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 21:48:52 -0500
From: Wonko the Sane [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] I know Glenn, he used to buy from us.
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

4-banger, auto tranny.

BTW, there is a dark blue 2002 Cavalier on the local used car dealer's
 lot
(very reliable guy, has been in business for 30 years, everyone seems
 to buy
their cars from him) that is attracting the wife's interest. I must
 admit --
the Cavalier is a very comfortable car and has plenty of room for even
someone as big (6'4) as me.

MPG 22/30/25. Disappointing.

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Re: [MBZ] climate control

2007-10-20 Thread jfreezn
Douglas,

Is your system an ACCII with the Chrysler servo?
One of the DIY tests for going to full heat is to unplug the ambient sensor.? 
Because it is easy to
get to.? It sounds like you have an open in the loop.? Did you remember to plug 
in the 2 pin 
connector for the sensor wheel?? The in car sensor in the dash could be 
unpluged too.


Jim in Phoenix


I have been lurking for quite some time and now have decided to repair my 1980 
300D climate control, for the longest time it would only deliver defrost. The 
car would not turn off with the green vacuum line connected under the hood. 

I have removed and replace the push button and temp wheel. Now that is done the 
car turns off normally with the green vacuum line connected I am able to select 
the different push button selectors, with the correct air moving out of the 
vents. (floor, side vents, defrost vents) Now the problem is that it is always 
calling for heat I put another temp wheel in with the same results. 

I need help with what is calling for heat! 

TIA Douglas. 




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[MBZ] climate control 1980 300D Chrys servo

2007-10-20 Thread Douglas Sherman
I also changed the in car sensor, the a/c amplifier. All with the same results 
all heat all the time. Now I have a Temp Control Regulator though I don't see 
it in my car? Would just like to change it and see if it makes a difference. 
Though I don't see where it is on my car! Can someone help me find this box?

TIA Douglas
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Re: [MBZ] climate control 1980 300D Chrys servo

2007-10-20 Thread Barry Stark
Douglas -
For good reason I think as it does not exist that I know of. The temperature
regulation is performed by a resistor bridge that consists of an ambient
temp sensor, outside the cabin mounted on the firewall, an inside temp
sensor (likely the one that you replaced, most likely unnecessarily), and
the variable resistor in the control unit. The two sensors are thermistors
where the resistance changes with temperature. They are situated in the
configuration of a Wheatstone bridge. There is a variable resistor, the one
in the temperature control dial, and a fixed resistor in the control unit.
The four resistors make up the bridge. The bridge seeks equilibrium and the
system moves the servo one way or another(i.e. towards heating or
cooling)till the equilibrium is achieved. When you move the temperature dial
it unbalances the bridge and the control unit then moves the servo as
required to compensate and re-balance the bridge. It is really quite a
simple system. The whole thing falls down though if the servo is not moving.
That is why I said that making sure the servo is moving is the very first
step, and the easiest as well. S...is your servo moving? BTW, when you
replaced the servo amplifier, was the resistor crispy crittered?

Barry


 Now I have a Temp Control
 Regulator though I don't see it in my car? Would just like to
 change it and see if it makes a difference. Though I don't see
 where it is on my car! Can someone help me find this box?

 TIA Douglas



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Re: [MBZ] climate control

2007-10-20 Thread Barry Stark
Not sure that this post went out my first attempt. If it did then sorry for
the duplication



Douglas -
A somewhat common failure mode of the servo units, is that something gums up
and jams the internal works, but the servo motor tries to move anyway,
forcing the linkage against the side of the case usually cracking the
plastic case. The very first test to make on this system, before anything
else, is to see if the servo is indeed moving. It is very simple. In a very
quiet environment, start the engine and let it run for a few minutes. Next,
turn off the engine and listen carefully for the servo motor running as it
returns to the park position. Did you hear it running? It takes at least 5
or 10 seconds to park. You may want to raise the hood and listen closely
right next to the servo in case you don't hear it from the driver's seat. If
you don't hear it running, examine the exterior of the body of the servo and
detect any coolant leaking. Get back to us with the results of this test and
we will go to the next step.

Barry


 I need help with what is calling for heat!

 TIA Douglas.




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Re: [MBZ] climate control

2007-10-20 Thread Barry Stark
Douglas -
A somewhat common failure mode of the servo units, is that something gums up
and jams the internal works, but the servo motor tries to move anyway,
forcing the linkage against the side of the case usually cracking the
plastic case. The very first test to make on this system, before anything
else, is to see if the servo is indeed moving. It is very simple. In a very
quiet environment, start the engine and let it run for a few minutes. Next,
turn off the engine and listen carefully for the servo motor running as it
returns to the park position. Did you hear it running? It takes at least 5
or 10 seconds to park. You may want to raise the hood and listen closely
right next to the servo in case you don't hear it from the driver's seat. If
you don't hear it running, examine the exterior of the body of the servo and
detect any coolant leaking. Get back to us with the results of this test and
we will go to the next step.

Barry


 I need help with what is calling for heat!

 TIA Douglas.




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Re: [MBZ] Fix or Sell

2007-10-20 Thread OK Don
It ehlps if working on your old Mercedes is your hobby --- you'd be
spending the time/money on something else if you weren't spending it
on the car.

On 10/20/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  For a daily user basis, a pre-85 Mercedes does or doesn't worth
  never-ending fixings?

 A brand-new car often ends up in the shop, sometimes a little,
 sometimes a lot.  'Free', but there is still the PITA factor.

 After a year or two you should be past that and coasting on
 its newness.  For several years, effectively nothing beyond
 routine maintenance.  If you require this in a vehicle, you
 will just have to pony up and pay for it.

 A neglected car, of any marque, will take some time to sort
 out.  But unless it's a lemon things will eventually stabilize
 down to a relatively small (average) expense per year, for the
 indefinite future.

 -- Jim

-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics.
-Benjamin Disraeli
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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Re: [MBZ] OM603 prechamber cross-threaded

2007-10-20 Thread Luther - laptop
Ok, so today I sacrificed the prechamber tool and forced it farther down  
into the prechamber.  Success, the cross-threaded prechamber is now out of  
the head.  The prechamber tool is about $45, unless someone can tell me  
what the die size is to re-thread my tool.  Is that possible?

Luther

On Wed, 10 Oct 2007 12:33:23 -0500, Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Anyone have any suggestions for how to remove a cross-threaded  
 prechamber?  I can't get the prechamber knockout tool in more than one  
 thread  HELP!!! ???




-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
'82 300CD (169 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine

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Re: [MBZ] Great Lakes car ads

2007-10-20 Thread Allan Streib

On Oct 20, 2007, at 9:39 AM, Mitch Haley wrote:

 91 350sdl, dealer, $5695
 http://www.auto-rv.com/browse.aspx?AdName=BMI2361656D

Rodbender, no??

 87 SDL, 170k, $6900
 http://auto-rv.com/browse.aspx?AdName=BMIH2191637D

This one would not be, correct?  OM603.961?

Allan
--
1983 300D
1966 230

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Re: [MBZ] Cavalier

2007-10-20 Thread Allan Streib

On Oct 20, 2007, at 11:40 AM, Curt Raymond wrote:

 Given the choice I'd have a Focus or Escort, assuming I had to stay  
 in that size class. Neon is much like the Cavalier although more  
 powerful.

We have an '04 Focus wagon, it's a tin can but so far trouble free  
except the wheels seem prone to bending.  The Zetec engine is smooth  
and peppy.

The Focus has sold in large numbers for Ford, so finding good cheap  
used ones should not be difficult.

Allan
--
1983 300D
1966 230

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Re: [MBZ] OM603 prechamber cross-threaded

2007-10-20 Thread Barry Stark
Luther -
I'm guessing the die for that would be more than a new tool. If you have a
friend with a lathe that knows how to single point threads that may be a way
to go, but to pay a machinist to do that would be way more than the tool.
How about using a metric thread file?

Barry




  The prechamber tool is about $45, unless someone can tell me
 what the die size is to re-thread my tool.  Is that possible?

 Luther



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Re: [MBZ] Cavalier

2007-10-20 Thread Wonko the Sane
The reason I like the Cavalier is that it is sort of the Mini Me to Debbie's
Buick Regal -- both are very comfortable on long (2 hour each way) trips. No
tin can feel to it. Plenty of power, cruises comfortably at 65 mph (I am 54,
not 14) and that is 'nuff for me.

On 10/20/07, Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 On Oct 20, 2007, at 11:40 AM, Curt Raymond wrote:

  Given the choice I'd have a Focus or Escort, assuming I had to stay
  in that size class. Neon is much like the Cavalier although more
  powerful.

 We have an '04 Focus wagon, it's a tin can but so far trouble free
 except the wheels seem prone to bending.  The Zetec engine is smooth
 and peppy.

 The Focus has sold in large numbers for Ford, so finding good cheap
 used ones should not be difficult.

 Allan
 --
 1983 300D
 1966 230

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-- 
LT Don
http://don.homelinux.net/~don/
Proudly marching to the beat of a different kettle of fish.

Make a small loan, Make a big difference - Kiva.org
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[MBZ] Climate control unit interchangeability

2007-10-20 Thread Peter Frederick

Does anyone know if I can put the climate control unit out of my 88 TE 
into my 87 300D?  I need to check to see if I have a bad unit or 
something else going on.  They both use the later two wire coolant temp 
sensor.

The problem in intermittant operation -- fan runs on low only no matter 
which button is pushed for fan speed, AC compressor only comes on for a 
few seconds (up to 15 or twenty seconds once in a while) at the same 
time the fan speeds up to normal.  I have a spare PBCU, but don't want 
to fry it if it's not compatible.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Salvage door desiderata MY 1985 300SD got hit

2007-10-20 Thread Robert Bigham
 Sat, 20 Oct 2007 09:57:32 -0500
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] MY 1985 300SD got hit ...
 
Then there is Okiebenz, who has plenty of doors available.
 ___

I'm do not doubt that okiebenz has plenty of good used doors.  
Okiebenz was my ace in the hole in my search for a used 123 
sedan driver's door painted Astral Silver Poly.

Alas, okiebenz didn't have the door I wanted.  I almost cried 
big tears to have my childlike faith shaken and my parade 
rained on by that.  Then I said, Oh well, what the hell? and 
got on with my life.




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[MBZ] FW: RE: Salvage door desiderata (MY 300 SD got hit)

2007-10-20 Thread Robert Bigham

 Subject: RE: [MBZ] Salvage door desiderata (MY 300 SD got hit)

 Here we go again, folks.  Enjoy the ride.

 It is absolutely not true that your local body shop has to have every
car 
 matched for paint  why they can't just order paint part number XXX from 
 the Stealership  Not so.  I do not doubt that some may match every job, 
 perhaps for reasons they may not disclose.

 It is true that the factory paint weathers and fades to some extent, and
the 
 color today is not identical to what it was, say 24 yr and 2 mo ago on my 
 1983 Mercedes produced in August 1983 or nearly 26 yr ago on my 1981 
 Volkswagen.
   
 Some of the people who obviously thought I must be crazy to want a
salvage 
 door already painted my color tried to enlighten me on this point.  I
already 
 knew, perhaps better than they.  I wanted to minimize color match
problems, 
 not finesse them entirely. That's also all that Jim said.

 The factory colors are close to the car colors or new paint colors today.

 In almost all cases they are close enough.  I just replaced the hatch on 
 the VW and changed the replacement hatch color from red to white.  
 Factory white paint code used to change color. I think it looks like new, 
 and it no longer pours water where the pinch weld was rusted away, 
 which is even better. 

 It is possible to match existing paint today with new paint, and for a
while that
 may be short, the matched color and the original color, assuming they are
side 
 by side, will appear the same.  

 The match may not last long, depending on the color and exposure.  After
a 
 while, (I have a 21 yr long experimental case on a house.), the matched
paint 
 may appear only to be from the same general part of the spectrum as the 
 original, and not be a match except in the roughest of ways.  Across the
street 
 in the dark, perhaps.  Not in daylight, not at a reasonable distance. 

 The original and matched paints have different compositions and will not 
 weather identically. That is the bottom line.  Reds and colors containing 
 reds are the worst.

 I believe that if you check, you will find that most auto paint used in
the 
 custom and/or collison repair business does not come from the car
dealers; 
 it comes from independent paint suppliers. Good shops that have the 
 necessary volume mix their own paint, and buy mixing colors from the 
 independent paint suppliers.  The dealers can be a good source of spray 
 can quantities of paint for touchup, and they may be the only practical 
 source of the actual factory paint if you want that (Glasso brand and 
 similar).

 Even factory replacement parts are painted after they are installed on
your car. is 
 true, perhaps with rare exceptions.  This may be because new replacement
parts 
 from any source nearly alway acquire a ding or two in shipping/handling,
and 
 often require fitting to match the car. This does not even consider the
multitude of 
 factory colors and that some colors may be single year specific while the
underlying 
 part may fit a fairly large number of year models.
   
 We can  match any color and similar, while true, is no more than
puffery and 
 surely an attempt to snare customers who may somewhat instinctively
believe 
 matching paint is a good desirable thing.. It can also be a way to
disguise a rebuild 
 from the inexpert eye  I would never advise other than full disclosure.  

 I know a retired man who made a fortune buying and rebuilding wrecked
cars 
 and selling them   He made a practice of requiring all his buyers to sign
and date 
 a picture or pictures of the wreck before repair and a picure or pictures
of the 
 repaired car.  He told me he never had a successrul lawsuit over the
facts or 
 disclosure, although he did have some that were dismissed.

 Reputable shops that I know about will preferentially use the factory
paint 
 codes to order or mix.  The match of new factory code paint beside
original 
 paint in good condition is almost always quite good, except that reds and 
 colors containing reds can be a problem.  

 No reputable shop I have ever encountered disdained the factory paint
code, 
 saying  Don't worry, we can match any color or similar.  They want the 
 factory paint code.  I spent half a day off and on exposing it on my
European 
 Mercedes.  It's coded on on the data plate on the top radiator brace, not
the 
 bright metal printed and stamped plate that anyone can read, but the
perforated 
 other plate painted body color.  The owner's manual tells that, and the
paint 
 vendor worked it out for me. My chosen shop, with whom I have dealt for
years, 
 mixed from the factory paint code.  

 They did not match existing paint, which would have been the last choice
way 
 to do things, simply because of the lack of a sufficiently large sample
of unweathered 
 factory paint, and (or so they told me) the paint, say, on door jambs is
not the 
 same as that on the exterior.  I don't know if that is true.  

 Matching is a legitimate way to 

Re: [MBZ] Climate control unit interchangeability

2007-10-20 Thread Tom Hargrave
According to Rusty's web site - no.

I just looked up both cars in his catalog and the web site shows different
part numbers.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Peter Frederick
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2007 9:12 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Climate control unit interchangeability


Does anyone know if I can put the climate control unit out of my 88 TE 
into my 87 300D?  I need to check to see if I have a bad unit or 
something else going on.  They both use the later two wire coolant temp 
sensor.

The problem in intermittant operation -- fan runs on low only no matter 
which button is pushed for fan speed, AC compressor only comes on for a 
few seconds (up to 15 or twenty seconds once in a while) at the same 
time the fan speeds up to normal.  I have a spare PBCU, but don't want 
to fry it if it's not compatible.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Great Lakes car ads

2007-10-20 Thread Mitch Haley


Allan Streib wrote:
 
 On Oct 20, 2007, at 9:39 AM, Mitch Haley wrote:
 
  91 350sdl, dealer, $5695
  http://www.auto-rv.com/browse.aspx?AdName=BMI2361656D
 
 Rodbender, no??

Yes. Unless it's been fixed already.
I figured it would provide a price reference for the '91 in Florida.
I think JF bid $7k on that one, which has a replacement engine.

 
  87 SDL, 170k, $6900
  http://auto-rv.com/browse.aspx?AdName=BMIH2191637D
 
 This one would not be, correct?  OM603.961?

Not rodbender. Maybe headcracker.

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