Re: [MBZ] Found the lost key on a 300SD, 1981
Tim - Interesting you should ask as I just had a locksmith make a duplicate key for my '81 SD today in Long Beach CA. The machine appeared to be a computerized CNC like milling machine. My understanding from my Indy is that they insert the key to be copied into the machine and it reads out the key code and cuts from that rather than copying by tracing the profile. Obviously more than just a clone copy as the locksmith asked what year and model the key was from, fed some information into a computer screen and then inserted the blank into the milling machine. It made 2 passes per cut, rough and finish, and required that the key be removed and reinserted for each of the 4 cut edges. Whole process took about 5 minutes and the new key looked almost better than the key being duplicated which by the way, was a little used "spare" key purchased a couple of years ago from the dealer that ordered it from MBNA. Cost was $35. I looked at the newly cut "blank", which virtually identical to the genuine key minus, of course, the "star" stamped on the shaft near the head and noticed it was made in Italy. Barry > > Which brings us to another question, is there a way to generate a key > code > from an actual key? Or is a tumbler the only way? > > I don't have this problem yet, just curious. :) > > Thanks, > -Tim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 123/201 busted parts
So you've had all these dramas with MB over the years but still keep buying these heaps? Are you a glutton for punishment? Hendrik who'd rather push his MB than drive a BMW, although the last time one of my Benzes was pushed the missus got to do the pushing relng...@aol.com wrote: . I would love to hear about all your 123 and 201 failures. Take a chair, my boy. My '78 300D, bought new for about 19.5K was a pretty car. Milan Brown metallic with tan tex. Later, Euro lights with bright H-4s and relays, Polished bundts and a good sound system. During the 50K mile warranty, every single component under the hood except the engine and FI pump failed and was replaced. Including the radiator, AC condensor and compressor clutch, power steering pump, water pump and to cap it all off, thirteen injectors because of abnormal noise. Inside, the heater pushbutton panel and I've forgotten what else. After the warranty, the AC compressor, the infamous heater water servo valve and aux water pump and the right side wiper linkage. Sold for me by a consignment outfit for 13.5K in January '85. In the 120K miles I owned it, I bought five sets of tires for it, all Phoenix Stahlflex. I could have gotten by with some rock hard cheapies but... Typical around town fuel economy was about 21 and best-ever highway was 28.5. Ah, the 201s. Seemed like a good idea at the time. The '85 190E (Smoke Silver/Palomino) cost somewhere in the middle 20s. Front seat memory for $1400. I don't recall when the trouble began but it couldn't have been very long. In no particular order, loose bolts in the diff assembly. The cure was better stickum and make 'em tighter. Something happened in the transmission which took a day or so in the shop. Several FI problems which were eventually ironed out. I think that the head was off later on and can't recall why. The front suspension developed some anomaly and parts were changed. There was something about the power steering or steering box but it's too long ago to be specific. And the air conditioning. Inside, the pushbutton panel was replaced. I think, again when the temp indications on the adjustment wheel peeled off. Another known problem was a switchover valve up behind the glovebox that started clicking madly when interior temperature reached a certain point with the AC on. Replaced. And then there was the secret recall to fix the AC once and for all. Since MB AC was never the equal any any GM car up to that point, owners down south (hot and humid) were complaining loudly about the AC's poor performance. Well, it was poor. The fix was never mentioned until a customer had complained so many times that the dealer was sick of it all. There was a $2200+ parts kit that brought AC temps down to Cadillac-in-Louisiana levels where they should have been. A new compressor and all new lines. New electronic controls and sealing panels alongside the radiator and on the sides of the bellypan to prevent hot radiator air from re-entering the AC condensor from underneath. This was not a recall, TSB or Service bulletin but some sort of case-by-case modification. Two days in the shop. During that time when 201's were selling well, the shop foreman said to me one day "These son-of-a-bitches are failing faster than we can fix them." In my circle of friends there were five 190Es and all but one were as bad as mine. Because all this was costing MB big warranty money, a lot of the problems were history by mid-1986. Not all, but some. Traded at 49K miles and the next owner called me a few months later asking if I had gotten rid of the car under the Lemon Law since the AC had failed. Again. Next was the '89 190E 2.6. Desert Taupe/Palomino. The '89 was restyled with side cladding, revised bumper covers and new seats front and rear, reshaped and thinner to improve knee room. This car was far more reliable but still had the occasional warranty visit and when at about 40K miles oil usage increased to the point where a calibrated oil consumption test was done. 840 miles per quart. The official answer was that MB considered 600 miles per quart to be the point where something could be done. I said to the MBUSA rep, "You and I both know that these engines don't use oil" and his reply was "Oh, I know that and we will pay for all the parts required plus 1/2 the labor since at that point the car was showing 70K miles. The problem was that a series of M-103s, mostly 3-liters, had been built with the wrong size pistons and at about 40K oil consumption would increase rapidly. At that time the dealer was repairing about two 3.0 124s per week but my 2.6 was the first they had seen. New pistons and rod bearings plus they threw in a head rebuild and a new radiator when the tech smacked it with a big wrench. My extended warranty picked up most of the rest including some ignition parts and I paid around $200 at the end. I traded it and about 15k miles later the
Re: [MBZ] Found the lost key on a 300SD, 1981
Barry Stark wrote: Tim - Interesting you should ask as I just had a locksmith make a duplicate key for my '81 SD today in Long Beach CA. The machine appeared to be a computerized CNC like milling machine. My understanding from my Indy is that they insert the key to be copied into the machine and it reads out the key code and cuts from that rather than copying by tracing the profile. Should be very achievable if there are only 4 available heights for the bumps on the key. (per JimC's earlier post) Mitch. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 123/201 busted parts
odels cost Mercedes so much warranty money when they were covered that it only makes sense that the same parts these days are far more robust and proven. Things began to change rapidly when the LS 400 showed up. Finally some real competition, like them or not, and the W202 was far better, at least in M104 form. RLE -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/4d72fa00/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.63/2317 - Release Date: 08/21/09 06:04:00 -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/b726a02d/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Found the lost key on a 300SD, 1981
It is not surprising that you can have that done in a Mercedes-rich environment like Long Beach. (SOCAL in general) In the most of the rest of the country, there is 0% chance of a locksmith having that sophisticated equipment. my former E320 was from a top 10 population area and it came with a headless brass key that had been cut in a similar fashion from a brass blank. Is your new key brass or steel? The factory (and the experience of owners) indicates that only steel keys should be used. I ordered a steel key by VIN, and it worked great. At 03:26 AM 8/22/2009, you wrote: Tim - Interesting you should ask as I just had a locksmith make a duplicate key for my '81 SD today in Long Beach CA. The machine appeared to be a computerized CNC like milling machine. My understanding from my Indy is that they insert the key to be copied into the machine and it reads out the key code and cuts from that rather than copying by tracing the profile. Obviously more than just a clone copy as the locksmith asked what year and model the key was from, fed some information into a computer screen and then inserted the blank into the milling machine. It made 2 passes per cut, rough and finish, and required that the key be removed and reinserted for each of the 4 cut edges. Whole process took about 5 minutes and the new key looked almost better than the key being duplicated which by the way, was a little used "spare" key purchased a couple of years ago from the dealer that ordered it from MBNA. Cost was $35. I looked at the newly cut "blank", which virtually identical to the genuine key minus, of course, the "star" stamped on the shaft near the head and noticed it was made in Italy. Barry > > Which brings us to another question, is there a way to generate a key > code > from an actual key? Or is a tumbler the only way? > > I don't have this problem yet, just curious. :) > > Thanks, > -Tim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com Loren Faeth ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Fwd: [Banned] maybe Jaime can chime in on this?
Jaime, Welcome to the okie list! At 08:55 PM 8/21/2009, you wrote: Hi everyone,I joined the list to forward this myself! Jaime -- Forwarded message -- From: Jaime Kopchinski Date: Fri, Aug 21, 2009 at 9:51 PM Subject: Re: [Banned] maybe Jaime can chime in on this? To: Banned List No problem Kaleb, I wouldn't say the high price of Becker radios is due to how "proud" they are. There are several factors that make them more expensive than the competitors. All of them are related to quality. 1) They're designed and made in Germany, not China. 2) They're designed and built to last as long as the 20-30 year old Grand Prix radios people have now. (Try that with a Sony) 3) Lower numbers are produced 4) They have top-quality components and materials. The Grand Prix of the 80s (there were 6 versions sold in the US) was quite state of the art, and built to the highest standards. Thats why they are still in so many cars. They still work! If the fail, simple repairs keep them going for several more years. Take a look at what aftermarket radios were available in 1979. That was the year Becker developed the first radio with a digitally controlled tuner and modern output ICs. This radio is the 611/612 found in US models until 1985. Poor sound quality by today's standards? Sure. But truly state of the art in its day. Becker has continued to make state of the art DIN sized head units for OEMs and the aftermarket. Examples can be seen at the UK version of the http://www.mybecker.com/ website. Note the Cascade/Traffic Pro models. They've been on the market for years now, and feature voice recognition, mp3 playback, bluetooth, internal phone, iPod connectivity, real-time traffic, etc etc. Oh yeah, and they'll plug into any post ~1980 Mercedes with a simple wiring adapter. Even W126s, W124s, and W140s with sound systems. In fact, I have one in my W116, W123, and W124. The sound quality will blow you away, even with original speakers and amps. The price? Well... see points 1-4 above. Availability in the US? Not officially available. You'll find them in a few Ferraris from the factory. Becker (Or, more correctly now, Harman/Becker Automotive Systems) is a company that supplies OEMs. We make all the sound systems, and several head units (Navi, phone, radio) found Mercedes, BMW, Audi, and Porsche. Quite simply, this is how they make their money. Aftermarket sales of specialty radios for the US can't compete with the volumes of the OEM business. So, what choices are available for owners of old cars like ours? Call Ed or Tom at Beckerautosound.com and ask them! They have all the adapters, speakers, radios, antennas that originally came on these cars. And they have some nice modern Becker radios to sell too. They're working on getting the latest Becker radios too. Want a modern $150 radio? Go get a sony. Just remember, you drive a Mercedes, not a econo-box. If you want a radio build with the same quality as the car you're going to put it in, get a Becker! Jaime '95 E320 - Traffic Pro 7945 '82 300D - Ferrari 6111 '79 300SD - Mexico Retro 7942 On Fri, Aug 21, 2009 at 8:46 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: > > > Original Message Subject: Re: [MBZ] New radio choice: > Sony vs. Kenwood Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 11:32:32 -0400 From: Dillon, > Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 Reply-To: > Mercedes Discussion List To: > Mercedes Discussion List References: > > > > Becker 4602 has front loading CD player, AND they sell a cable adapter > for Ipod connection, but it is going/has gone out of production and the > price is over $400. I really don't understand why Becker is so proud of > their radios which generally are about 3 years behind the technology > curve! > > Max > > -Original Message- > From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com > [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com ] On Behalf Of Jim Cathey > Sent: Friday, August 21, 2009 10:50 AM > To: Mercedes Discussion List > Subject: Re: [MBZ] New radio choice: Sony vs. Kenwood > > > Yes and you mentioned the ease of use for the Sony deck. Always a > plus! > > Hate the Sony CD that's in Jill's SL. Kind of light-showy, and it > bee-boops at you several times every time you turn it off. Supposedly > to remind you to remove and hide the faceplate, and not an option that > can be disabled. > > Why oh why didn't Becker ever make a plain old slot-load CD, just like > the cassette Grand Prix, that'll drop into the car? I really like the > Beckers, except for the no CD. > They only made trunk-mount changers so far as I know, and there's wiring > issues there. (I'm speaking of things that could now be found used for > a nice price.) I'm facing replacing the noisy Becker in the SEL, but > it's an external amplifier job, with non-standard signal levels, that > promises to be a big PITA to do. (It's the head going out, already know > that. Makes loud digital burping noises periodically, quite > di
Re: [MBZ] 123/201 busted parts
That is why it is best to wait until they are 7-15 years old, and the ellingsons of the world have paid for all the repairs. At 01:04 PM 8/22/2009, you wrote: So you've had all these dramas with MB over the years but still keep buying these heaps? Are you a glutton for punishment? Hendrik who'd rather push his MB than drive a BMW, although the last time one of my Benzes was pushed the missus got to do the pushing relng...@aol.com wrote: . I would love to hear about all your 123 and 201 failures. Take a chair, my boy. My '78 300D, bought new for about 19.5K was a pretty car. Milan Brown metallic with tan tex. Later, Euro lights with bright H-4s and relays, Polished bundts and a good sound system. During the 50K mile warranty, every single component under the hood except the engine and FI pump failed and was replaced. Including the radiator, AC condensor and compressor clutch, power steering pump, water pump and to cap it all off, thirteen injectors because of abnormal noise. Inside, the heater pushbutton panel and I've forgotten what else. After the warranty, the AC compressor, the infamous heater water servo valve and aux water pump and the right side wiper linkage. Sold for me by a consignment outfit for 13.5K in January '85. In the 120K miles I owned it, I bought five sets of tires for it, all Phoenix Stahlflex. I could have gotten by with some rock hard cheapies but... Typical around town fuel economy was about 21 and best-ever highway was 28.5. Ah, the 201s. Seemed like a good idea at the time. The '85 190E (Smoke Silver/Palomino) cost somewhere in the middle 20s. Front seat memory for $1400. I don't recall when the trouble began but it couldn't have been very long. In no particular order, loose bolts in the diff assembly. The cure was better stickum and make 'em tighter. Something happened in the transmission which took a day or so in the shop. Several FI problems which were eventually ironed out. I think that the head was off later on and can't recall why. The front suspension developed some anomaly and parts were changed. There was something about the power steering or steering box but it's too long ago to be specific. And the air conditioning. Inside, the pushbutton panel was replaced. I think, again when the temp indications on the adjustment wheel peeled off. Another known problem was a switchover valve up behind the glovebox that started clicking madly when interior temperature reached a certain point with the AC on. Replaced. And then there was the secret recall to fix the AC once and for all. Since MB AC was never the equal any any GM car up to that point, owners down south (hot and humid) were complaining loudly about the AC's poor performance. Well, it was poor. The fix was never mentioned until a customer had complained so many times that the dealer was sick of it all. There was a $2200+ parts kit that brought AC temps down to Cadillac-in-Louisiana levels where they should have been. A new compressor and all new lines. New electronic controls and sealing panels alongside the radiator and on the sides of the bellypan to prevent hot radiator air from re-entering the AC condensor from underneath. This was not a recall, TSB or Service bulletin but some sort of case-by-case modification. Two days in the shop. During that time when 201's were selling well, the shop foreman said to me one day "These son-of-a-bitches are failing faster than we can fix them." In my circle of friends there were five 190Es and all but one were as bad as mine. Because all this was costing MB big warranty money, a lot of the problems were history by mid-1986. Not all, but some. Traded at 49K miles and the next owner called me a few months later asking if I had gotten rid of the car under the Lemon Law since the AC had failed. Again. Next was the '89 190E 2.6. Desert Taupe/Palomino. The '89 was restyled with side cladding, revised bumper covers and new seats front and rear, reshaped and thinner to improve knee room. This car was far more reliable but still had the occasional warranty visit and when at about 40K miles oil usage increased to the point where a calibrated oil consumption test was done. 840 miles per quart. The official answer was that MB considered 600 miles per quart to be the point where something could be done. I said to the MBUSA rep, "You and I both know that these engines don't use oil" and his reply was "Oh, I know that and we will pay for all the parts required plus 1/2 the labor since at that point the car was showing 70K miles. The problem was that a series of M-103s, mostly 3-liters, had been built with the wrong size pistons and at about 40K oil consumption would increase rapidly. At that time the dealer was repairing about two 3.0 124s per week but my 2.6 was the first they had seen. New pistons and rod bearings plus they threw in a head rebuild and a new radiator when the tech smacked it with a
Re: [MBZ] Found the lost key on a 300SD, 1981
Hmmm - I think tht's about what I pay for a dealer key --- On Sat, Aug 22, 2009 at 3:26 AM, Barry Stark wrote: > Tim - > Cost was $35. I looked at the newly cut "blank", which > virtually identical to the genuine key minus, of course, the "star" stamped > on the shaft near the head and noticed it was made in Italy. > > Barry > > > -- > OK Don > Pair of W124 300D 2.5 Turbos > > -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/fd0af939/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Found the lost key on a 300SD, 1981
In Oct '07, key with tumbler $80 from dealer via Rusty. Wilton - Original Message - From: "OK Don" To: "Mercedes Discussion List" Sent: Saturday, August 22, 2009 1:22 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Found the lost key on a 300SD, 1981 Hmmm - I think tht's about what I pay for a dealer key --- On Sat, Aug 22, 2009 at 3:26 AM, Barry Stark wrote: Tim - Cost was $35. I looked at the newly cut "blank", which virtually identical to the genuine key minus, of course, the "star" stamped on the shaft near the head and noticed it was made in Italy. Barry -- OK Don Pair of W124 300D 2.5 Turbos -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/fd0af939/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] V8's from W116 and W126
On Fri, Aug 21, 2009 at 11:44 PM, Peter Frederick wrote: > Biggest change is the block -- cast iron in the W116, hyper-ectoctic (or > whatever) silico-aluminum in the W126. Ah, see, that's one of the biggest things I was wondering. Whether the blocks were different materials. Apparently, from what little I can find, the M116 was even used in the W108. So the basic block, regardless of metal used to cast it, has been around for a while, correct? > Various difference sizes, not the 4.5L of the cast iron W117 (or 3.5L for > the M116). The cast iron ones have D-Jetronic and mechanical fast idle up > to 1975, after 1976 it's KJet or KE Jet with variations. The early ones > have a "buzz valve" for mixture control and the later ones have the > electrohydraulic actuator and a different computer system. See, that also throws me. The D-Jet was electrical, correct? The K-Jet mechanical? So did they have a problem with the early electrical controls and switch back to mechanical for a time? As for part interchange, you would have to get the part numbers and check. > I suspect that most parts won't -- as noted, the displacement is different > between the cast iron and aluminum blocks, so I suspect the rods, pistons, > and crank are different. The cams have different profiles and timing for > the different injection and emissions control systems, and the chains are > not the same, I think. > > However, stuff like water pumps and thermostat housings may very well be > identical (and may not be!). > > Peter Thanks for the help, EdB -- "I've come to your planet on a Class IV Intergalactic Doom Freighter." - Adrian Monk -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/c18cbd6f/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Found the lost key on a 300SD, 1981
Don - I never said it was a great value or even equal to the dealer supplied key. I believe the question that I was responding to was about machines using the key "code" to produce the key. I was surprised that a sophisticated key duplicating machine like this even existed in a neighborhood locksmith's shop. It looked like it was a pretty pricey machine. To answer another lister's question, it does appear to be brass and I know about the steel vs brass argument's think someone said something about locksmiths not being able to get steel blanks and surely the brass is much easier on the cutting tool in the machine but I would imagine that it would cut steel blanks as well. In this case my wife had just somehow lost a set of keys. As a matter of personal policy we always keep 3 copies of the keys for each of our cars. This key will be a backup to the spare and if used at all it would be used very infrequently so I didn't even give the material a second thought. The primary use key and the backup key for this car are both dealer supplied steel keys. Sounds like your dealer's prices are reasonable. The dealer supplied key that I mentioned that was being copied cost me $48 about three years ago. Since the value of the dollar has slipped in the last little while, the local parts prices for these cars has gone up surprisingly high. Don't ever let anybody tell you it is cheap to live in So. Calif. With the current crop of tax and spend politicians we now have in office here...well, let's just say that I can now order parts from Rusty and the sales tax savings will likely more than pay for the shipping charges. Barry > > Hmmm - I think that's about what I pay for a dealer key --- > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] pulling the head on my 140
So Im right in the middle of pulling the head on the 140. Im down to pulling the timing chain slide rail pins and removing the head bolts. I have the special MB slide hammer type tool for removing the pins but the WILL NOT budge at all. I have never had problems getting those out with this tool. Im thinking I need to try the other type of extractor tool. What do you guys think? Also, is there a certain order to removing the head bolts? WIS does not say anything about it. Damn, If I cant get those pins out with the tool I have, I will have to order the other till and wont be able to get the head off till next weekend at the earliest. -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] pulling the head on my 140
On Sat, 22 Aug 2009 14:13:28 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin" wrote: > I have the special MB slide hammer type tool for removing the pins but > the WILL NOT budge at all. I have never had problems getting those out > with this tool. Im thinking I need to try the other type of extractor > tool. What do you guys think? Does the shop manual specify a particular type of tool? What is the, "other type of extractor tool"? > Also, is there a certain order to removing the head bolts? WIS does not > say anything about it. It wouldn't hurt to loosen them in the opposite manner specified for torquing them upon installation. Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] V8's from W116 and W126
Yup -- 1968 was the first year for the M116, I think, with D-Jet. D-Jet is pressure regulated, and Benz decided that it was vasty easier to use K-Jet (and later KE-Jet and LH-Jet) injection as the emissions requirements tightened up. D-Jet was hard to adapt to feedback, I think, and K-Jet gives better fuel mixture regulation at all speeds, too. D-Jet is electronic, K-Jet mechanical, KE-Jet is K- Jet with a means to change the fuel mixture on the fly via an electronics package. Note that GM and Chrysler used an electronic fuel injection system similar to D-jet for a very long time -- that is, manifold absolute pressure regulated. K-Jet is a mass air flow metering system, and it better. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] pulling the head on my 140
Use the other extractor, it's better than a slide hammer, and is in fact the one specified in the manual. Works great. Loosen the head bolts in reverse order of tightening. I've done that for 30 years or more now, it's pretty much the standard way to do things. There is a specified way to remove the cam, though, and you should follow it. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] pulling the head on my 140
Books says side hammer type or screw type can be used. Book does not say what order to tighten bolts, only the sequence of each bolt. IE torq to this spec, then to this, and so on, but not which bolt to do first, 2nd, and so on. Craig McCluskey wrote: On Sat, 22 Aug 2009 14:13:28 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin" wrote: I have the special MB slide hammer type tool for removing the pins but the WILL NOT budge at all. I have never had problems getting those out with this tool. Im thinking I need to try the other type of extractor tool. What do you guys think? Does the shop manual specify a particular type of tool? What is the, "other type of extractor tool"? Also, is there a certain order to removing the head bolts? WIS does not say anything about it. It wouldn't hurt to loosen them in the opposite manner specified for torquing them upon installation. Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.64/2319 - Release Date: 08/22/09 06:06:00 -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/276e0ba5/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] pulling the head on my 140
I already removed the cam in the specified manner. Peter Frederick wrote: Use the other extractor, it's better than a slide hammer, and is in fact the one specified in the manual. Works great. Loosen the head bolts in reverse order of tightening. I've done that for 30 years or more now, it's pretty much the standard way to do things. There is a specified way to remove the cam, though, and you should follow it. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] pulling the head on my 140
I used a long bolt with multiple layers of washers and a nut to apply pressure. Was not pretty, but it worked. Washers fit over the pin to apply pressure at the base topped off with one with a smaller hole that allowed the nut to seat and transfer pressure to the others. Looking for tightening sequence. If you have a dial gauge, you can check the amount that the piston top protrudes from the block for each cylinder to see if any rods are bent. Put a small bar across the cylinder opening and set to zero. Rotate crank to get highest reading from piston. MAKE SURE you remove vacuum pump or be prepared for the timing chain to lurch forward as you rotate crank. Could take a finger off if your hand is in the wrong place at the wrong time. -Dave Walton On 8/22/09, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: > So Im right in the middle of pulling the head on the 140. Im down to > pulling the timing chain slide rail pins and removing the head bolts. I > have the special MB slide hammer type tool for removing the pins but the > WILL NOT budge at all. I have never had problems getting those out with > this tool. Im thinking I need to try the other type of extractor tool. What > do you guys think? Also, is there a certain order to removing the head > bolts? WIS does not say anything about it. Damn, If I cant get those pins > out with the tool I have, I will have to order the other till and wont be > able to get the head off till next weekend at the earliest. > > -- > Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK > 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL, > 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 > 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com > > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] pulling the head on my 140
My copy of WIS won't start. Not sure why. I see it on the Process list, but no window appears. The sequence is in there somewhere. It's a bad scan of a bad drawing with numbers in circles showing the order. About half the numbers are legible. As I recall there were 2 torque steps, then you turn the bolt 90 degrees to finish it off. -Dave Walton On 8/22/09, dave walton wrote: > I used a long bolt with multiple layers of washers and a nut to apply > pressure. Was not pretty, but it worked. Washers fit over the pin to > apply pressure at the base topped off with one with a smaller hole > that allowed the nut to seat and transfer pressure to the others. > > Looking for tightening sequence. > > If you have a dial gauge, you can check the amount that the piston top > protrudes from the block for each cylinder to see if any rods are > bent. Put a small bar across the cylinder opening and set to zero. > Rotate crank to get highest reading from piston. > > MAKE SURE you remove vacuum pump or be prepared for the timing chain > to lurch forward as you rotate crank. Could take a finger off if your > hand is in the wrong place at the wrong time. > > > -Dave Walton > > > On 8/22/09, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: > > So Im right in the middle of pulling the head on the 140. Im down to > > pulling the timing chain slide rail pins and removing the head bolts. I > > have the special MB slide hammer type tool for removing the pins but the > > WILL NOT budge at all. I have never had problems getting those out with > > this tool. Im thinking I need to try the other type of extractor tool. > What > > do you guys think? Also, is there a certain order to removing the head > > bolts? WIS does not say anything about it. Damn, If I cant get those pins > > out with the tool I have, I will have to order the other till and wont be > > able to get the head off till next weekend at the earliest. > > > > -- > > Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK > > 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL, > > 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 > > 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com > > > > > > ___ > > http://www.okiebenz.com > > For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > > > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] pulling the head on my 140
Actually, it does, but not by number. I'll dig it up later. Center out, alternating sides. Big pain, really takes two people to do, one to work the wrench and one to keep track of the bolts. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] The missus got to do the pushing [was: Re: 123/201 busted parts]
On Sun, 23 Aug 2009 03:34:59 +0930 Hendrik & Fay wrote: > So you've had all these dramas with MB over the years but still keep > buying these heaps? > Are you a glutton for punishment? > > Hendrik > who'd rather push his MB than drive a BMW, although the last time one of > my Benzes was pushed the missus got to do the pushing So what kind of story is behind that comment? Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] W110 - Headlights
Can anyone tell me the size of the headlight on the W110? EdB -- "I've come to your planet on a Class IV Intergalactic Doom Freighter." - Adrian Monk -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/ff363519/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] V8's from W116 and W126
D-Jet was hard to adapt to feedback, I think, and K-Jet gives better fuel mixture regulation at all speeds, too. D-Jet is electronic, K-Jet mechanical, D-Jet was more complex, and less reliable IIRC. That extra set of points... -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W110 - Headlights
Can anyone tell me the size of the headlight on the W110? Yeah, take your choice: 1) It's about so big . 2) 12V I couldn't resist! :-) -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W110 - Headlights
On Sat, Aug 22, 2009 at 6:42 PM, Jim Cathey wrote: > Can anyone tell me the size of the headlight on the W110? >> > > Yeah, take your choice: > > 1) It's about so big . > > 2) 12V > > I couldn't resist! :-) > > -- Jim-- Thank you Jim, I appreciate the timeliness of your information. Especially that it is 12V vs. 6V. Though, there were, I believe, three sizes of round sealed-beam lamps. 5 3/4 in, 7 in, and ... 9 in? Anyone know if the W110 uses the 7 in lamp? EdB "I've come to your planet on a Class IV Intergalactic Doom Freighter." - Adrian Monk -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/2097b2da/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Have to explain everything
> ...So you've had all these dramas with MB over the years but still keep > buying these heaps? Are you a glutton for punishment?.. > I know you just don't get it. Plus, it was almost all warranty claims. Glutton? I am here, right? RLE -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/7286a4a1/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] MB Enthusiast
On Sat, Aug 22, 2009 at 1:21 AM, wrote: > > ...I may have to get you to buy Mercedes Enthusiast and forward it on. B& > > N out here no longer carries the UK Mercedes mags. Guess they couldn't > sell > > them. Not willing to order them for me either. *sigh* > > > You live where? > > RLE > Indiana -- "I've come to your planet on a Class IV Intergalactic Doom Freighter." - Adrian Monk -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/00dcd683/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] pay attention
> ...That is why it is best to wait until they are 7-15 years old, and the > ellingsons of the world have paid for all the repairs... > Loren, old thing, you need to read more carefully. It was 95% warranty. And after 7-15 years, they are just old cars. RLE -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/5e8df201/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] The missus got to do the pushing [was: Re: 123/201 busted parts]
Well you know I didn't want to get my glass slippers dirty so I told her to get out and push. Seriously though, this was an South African W123 200 with a carby on it, it was always running rich and using fuel like it was free, so I was forever fiddling with it. Anyway this particular time after a good old fashioned fiddle, the missus takes off in it. 10 minutes later it comes coasting down the hill with a perspiring lady behind the wheel, turns out a bit of crud had blocked up the carby jet and the missus had to push it a bit until she got onto a bit of a slope and could coast home. Hendrik who wears size 10 and a half glass slippers, which reminds me of the time I got to wear a pink tutu on stage but that is another story and will have to wait until I find the picture to go with it Craig McCluskey wrote: On Sun, 23 Aug 2009 03:34:59 +0930 Hendrik & Fay wrote: So you've had all these dramas with MB over the years but still keep buying these heaps? Are you a glutton for punishment? Hendrik who'd rather push his MB than drive a BMW, although the last time one of my Benzes was pushed the missus got to do the pushing So what kind of story is behind that comment? Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W110 - Headlights
On Sat, Aug 22, 2009 at 6:48 PM, Ed Booher wrote: > I appreciate the timeliness of your information. Especially that it is 12V > vs. 6V. Though, there were, I believe, three sizes of round sealed-beam > lamps. 5 3/4 in, 7 in, and ... 9 in? Anyone know if the W110 uses the 7 in > lamp? > > EdB > Ok I guess there is only 5 3/4 and 7 with 7 being the most prevalent, and most european? So the W110 *should* be a 7" sealed-beam? EdB -- "I've come to your planet on a Class IV Intergalactic Doom Freighter." - Adrian Monk -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/448e5a11/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Have to explain everything
The part I don't get is you whine about how unreliable MBs are, list a 100 or so faults you have had over the years but keep buying them, whether they where fixed under warranty or not doesn't come into it. I would have thought you might have bought another brand to avoid the weekly trip to the dealer to have your engine rebuild. So what is it Roger, are you satisfied with the reliability of Benzes and they have not left you sitting on the side of the road or are they overpriced junk used for the purpose of impressing others, who are really not worth impressing because they judge people by their possessions. Furthermore it has to be remembered that MBs are mostly made up of components made by outside companies, the auto climate control in the US W123 is a good example and you can't expect MB to be held responsible for the quality control of other companies. Hendrik relng...@aol.com wrote: ...So you've had all these dramas with MB over the years but still keep buying these heaps? Are you a glutton for punishment?.. I know you just don't get it. Plus, it was almost all warranty claims. Glutton? I am here, right? RLE ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] V8's from W116 and W126
That unreliable extra set of four, actually. Long before the days of inductive pickups, after all. With a crank position sensor and breakerless ignition it's not so bad, but by then K-Jet was cheaper and simpler. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] pay attention Roger is talking
Old cars that pretty much drive like the day the exited the showroom. Hendrik with an old 89 TE that has a few rattles after 380K kmhs but it does the job and everything (including climate control and cruise) works on it relng...@aol.com wrote: ...That is why it is best to wait until they are 7-15 years old, and the ellingsons of the world have paid for all the repairs... Loren, old thing, you need to read more carefully. It was 95% warranty. And after 7-15 years, they are just old cars. RLE ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W110 - Headlights
Two or four headlamps? With two, almost always 7". With four, 5 3/4". DOT sealed beam, that 's all that was legal until the 80's. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] pay attention Roger is talking
when you are unbelievably stupid, you can only find any self worth through something like owning an expensive new car. On Sun, Aug 23, 2009 at 5:11 AM, Hendrik & Fay wrote: > Old cars that pretty much drive like the day the exited the showroom. > > Hendrik > with an old 89 TE that has a few rattles after 380K kmhs but it does the > job and everything (including climate control and cruise) works on it > > relng...@aol.com wrote: > >> ...That is why it is best to wait until they are 7-15 years old, and the >>> ellingsons of the world have paid for all the repairs... >>> >>> >>> >> Loren, old thing, you need to read more carefully. It was 95% warranty. >> And after 7-15 years, they are just old cars. >> >> RLE >> >> > > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/c33088b1/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] pulling the head on my 140
yea, thats it, but I guess it does not matter what order you do the bolts though. dave walton wrote: My copy of WIS won't start. Not sure why. I see it on the Process list, but no window appears. The sequence is in there somewhere. It's a bad scan of a bad drawing with numbers in circles showing the order. About half the numbers are legible. As I recall there were 2 torque steps, then you turn the bolt 90 degrees to finish it off. -Dave Walton On 8/22/09, dave walton wrote: I used a long bolt with multiple layers of washers and a nut to apply pressure. Was not pretty, but it worked. Washers fit over the pin to apply pressure at the base topped off with one with a smaller hole that allowed the nut to seat and transfer pressure to the others. Looking for tightening sequence. If you have a dial gauge, you can check the amount that the piston top protrudes from the block for each cylinder to see if any rods are bent. Put a small bar across the cylinder opening and set to zero. Rotate crank to get highest reading from piston. MAKE SURE you remove vacuum pump or be prepared for the timing chain to lurch forward as you rotate crank. Could take a finger off if your hand is in the wrong place at the wrong time. -Dave Walton On 8/22/09, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: > So Im right in the middle of pulling the head on the 140. Im down to > pulling the timing chain slide rail pins and removing the head bolts. I > have the special MB slide hammer type tool for removing the pins but the > WILL NOT budge at all. I have never had problems getting those out with > this tool. Im thinking I need to try the other type of extractor tool. What > do you guys think? Also, is there a certain order to removing the head > bolts? WIS does not say anything about it. Damn, If I cant get those pins > out with the tool I have, I will have to order the other till and wont be > able to get the head off till next weekend at the earliest. > > -- > Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK > 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL, > 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 > 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com > > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.64/2319 - Release Date: 08/22/09 06:06:00 -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/8baedb2b/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Found the lost key on a 300SD, 1981
Yup - I just though it was interesting that the prices were about the same - but I might be mistaken (or thinking backk too many years and keys) - and the stealers price was up around $50 last time. I think Rusty was more reasonable. On Sat, Aug 22, 2009 at 1:29 PM, Barry Stark wrote: > Don - > I never said it was a great value or even equal to the dealer supplied key. > I believe the question that I was responding to was about machines using > the > key "code" to produce the key. I was surprised that a sophisticated key > duplicating machine like this even existed in a neighborhood locksmith's > shop. It looked like it was a pretty pricey machine. To answer another > lister's question, it does appear to be brass and I know about the steel vs > brass argument's think someone said something about locksmiths not being > able to get steel blanks and surely the brass is much easier on the cutting > tool in the machine but I would imagine that it would cut steel blanks as > well. In this case my wife had just somehow lost a set of keys. As a matter > of personal policy we always keep 3 copies of the keys for each of our > cars. > This key will be a backup to the spare and if used at all it would be used > very infrequently so I didn't even give the material a second thought. The > primary use key and the backup key for this car are both dealer supplied > steel keys. Sounds like your dealer's prices are reasonable. The dealer > supplied key that I mentioned that was being copied cost me $48 about three > years ago. Since the value of the dollar has slipped in the last little > while, the local parts prices for these cars has gone up surprisingly high. > Don't ever let anybody tell you it is cheap to live in So. Calif. With the > current crop of tax and spend politicians we now have in office > here...well, > let's just say that I can now order parts from Rusty and the sales tax > savings will likely more than pay for the shipping charges. > > Barry > > > -- > OK Don > Pair of W124 300D 2.5 Turbos > > -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/5476cd38/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] what do you folks think about this post?
*[Guy giving the answer seems to be as generalist, not someone actually familiar with the 300E.] * ** *Question: *1989 Mercedes 300E 3 Liter Petrol mileage<http://www.2carpros.com/makes/mb/300.htm#>: 184,000. I would appreciate any help you may suggest for a problem I have with my faithful old Mercedes. It is a 1989 300TE, which I have had from 58,000 miles. Now with 184,000 miles and almost perfect bodywork, please tell me I don't have to change it! It started overheating and the garage local to my workplace (non Mercedes) identified that the fan was not working. A new fan however did not stop the overheating. A chemical test on the coolant identified that the head gasket was blowing. Subsequent strip down confirmed this as being on the 5th and 6th pots. After pressure testing, skimming and refitting the head, as well as changing out the thermostat, sender and a few other components, I still was left overheating. The radiator was then removed for testing, and re-coring carried out. The car now goes brilliantly, normally runs about 80 deg C, but still tends to overheat whenever I get in a traffic jam, and sometimes at other odd occasions. It hasn't actually boiled over, but the temperature gauge seems to fluctuate pretty wildly at times, sometimes going over 250 degree F before dipping back down again. I have checked that the fan is working even when the temperature gauge is showing hot. Whilst traveling in Germany recently (in a hire car) I saw several older Mercedes with their bonnets up on the side of the road during traffic jams. Is this a problem with older mercs? There does not seem to be any logical explanation. I have since had the coolant system flushed thoroughly with a proprietary flushing agent and checked the connections to the heater matrix etc. There is no evidence of blockage, although we have not removed the engine block core plugs. I have tried two different MB thermostats and two MB sender units. I am tempted to replace the temperature gauge, but the fluctuations only occur once the engine gets really hot. Any suggestions - I am getting desperate! *Answer: *On other cars with similar symptoms, we have found that the veins on the water pump corrode to the point that it causes poor coolant circulation at low speeds. Therefore, check the pump and replace if you find that it is faulty. http://www.2carpros.com/makes/mb/300.htm -- The young officer thought it very odd that his captain seemed to trust and confide in his chiefs more than his wardroom, but mustang officers had their own ways. -- Tom Clancy, Clear and Present Danger. -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/d4085d1c/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] '91 300E, 103 engine
How many miles per gallon can one expect to get, highway and/or mixed, in one of these cars? Do you have to burn premium fuel, or will it adjust the timing for regular or medium? What to look for other than the wiring harness, ACC, rear suspension links ??? Does the 103 engine have the same serpentine belt tensioner that the 602/603 uses? -- OK Don Pair of W124 300D 2.5 Turbos -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/af6f2c43/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] what do you folks think about this post?
Yup - replace your water pump. Then you won't suspect it if it over heats afterwards! On Sat, Aug 22, 2009 at 8:19 PM, Wonko the Sane wrote: > *[Guy giving the answer seems to be as generalist, not someone actually > familiar with the 300E.] > * > > ** > > *Question: *1989 Mercedes 300E 3 Liter Petrol > mileage<http://www.2carpros.com/makes/mb/300.htm#>: > 184,000. I would appreciate any help you may suggest for a problem I have > with my faithful old Mercedes. It is a 1989 300TE, which I have had from > 58,000 miles. Now with 184,000 miles and almost perfect bodywork, please > tell me I don't have to change it! It started overheating and the garage > local to my workplace (non Mercedes) identified that the fan was not > working. A new fan however did not stop the overheating. A chemical test on > the coolant identified that the head gasket was blowing. Subsequent strip > down confirmed this as being on the 5th and 6th pots. After pressure > testing, skimming and refitting the head, as well as changing out the > thermostat, sender and a few other components, I still was left > overheating. > The radiator was then removed for testing, and re-coring carried out. The > car now goes brilliantly, normally runs about 80 deg C, but still tends to > overheat whenever I get in a traffic jam, and sometimes at other odd > occasions. It hasn't actually boiled over, but the temperature gauge seems > to fluctuate pretty wildly at times, sometimes going over 250 degree F > before dipping back down again. I have checked that the fan is working even > when the temperature gauge is showing hot. Whilst traveling in Germany > recently (in a hire car) I saw several older Mercedes with their bonnets up > on the side of the road during traffic jams. Is this a problem with older > mercs? There does not seem to be any logical explanation. I have since had > the coolant system flushed thoroughly with a proprietary flushing agent and > checked the connections to the heater matrix etc. There is no evidence of > blockage, although we have not removed the engine block core plugs. I have > tried two different MB thermostats and two MB sender units. I am tempted to > replace the temperature gauge, but the fluctuations only occur once the > engine gets really hot. Any suggestions - I am getting desperate! > > *Answer: *On other cars with similar symptoms, we have found that the veins > on the water pump corrode to the point that it causes poor coolant > circulation at low speeds. Therefore, check the pump and replace if you > find > that it is faulty. > http://www.2carpros.com/makes/mb/300.htm > > > -- > OK Don > Pair of W124 300D 2.5 Turbos > > -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/da6b68b0/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] MB Enthusiast
> You live where? RLE > > ...Indiana... > Hm. Music Man country. Send your address offlist and I'll mail you a copy. You can drop me a check when I figure out the costs. Probably around 8-9 bucks. RLE -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/869f585b/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] The head is off, not sure what to think yet
Well just got done getting the head off. Geez. Thought I had everything loose, would not come off, had a bracket from exhaust manifold to block still attached. OK, unhooked it, still would not come off. Discovered a head bolt I forgot to get loose, still wont come off. Another head bolt discovered, still wont, one last head bolt I did not see, now its loose. Manual talks like you pull the exhaust/turbo with the head, which I did and figured would be the easy way. One major snag was the oil line from the block to the turbo. If I had remembered this, I would have removed it from the block before pulling. Anyway, got the head off. I really suspect the #1 rod is bent a little when its at TDC, its pretty much flush with the deck. If you run a finger nail from piston to block, you can catch it on the block. On the rest of the cylinders, including #6, you cant catch it this way. If you run it the other way, block to piston, you will catch your nail that way. Not very scientific, and have not done any official measuring or anything, but just looking from the naked eye it seems the rest stick up just a bit past the deck, and #1 is flush. Also, I can see the cross hatch marks in all the cylinders, even #1 but I do not know if its just my imagination, the lighting or what but it seems like the marks in #1 are fainter than the rest. I dont know. I do know that #1 has alot of carbon and junk on the piston top and bottom of the head, #6 does also but not quite as much. The rest are pretty clean (see pics). I took pics, see if you guys can tell anything from them. Probably not but worth a shot. So, if I do have a bent rod, guess I could slap it back together and drive it till it blows up. I dont like that idea too well though since I already have put in this much work on it. Next idea is I could chance spending 3-350 for that supposedly good block on ebay. 3rd choice is I do still have that strange 603 engine sitting in my garage http://www.okiebenz.com/pics/603engine/ This engine has a #22 head on it. The 140 has a #17. If I do mess with this other 603 engine, I guess I should either A: Fill it up with oil and try to hook a starter to it and do a compression check on the ground, or B: pull the head on it while its not in a car and see what the pistons and cylinders look like on that engine??? Thoughts or ideas greatly appreciated Here are the pics: http://www.okiebenz.com/pics/603headremoved/ -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] '91 300E, 103 engine
OK Don wrote: How many miles per gallon can one expect to get, highway and/or mixed, in one of these cars? look on fueleconomy.gov Do you have to burn premium fuel, or will it adjust the timing for regular or medium? you have to at least use mid grade What to look for other than the wiring harness, ACC, rear suspension links leaking head gasket ??? Does the 103 engine have the same serpentine belt tensioner that the 602/603 uses? no -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] pulling the head on my 140
Yes, it does. Center out, as always, to avoid trapping stresses. Actual sequence depends on the gasket. Some are two torque steps, some are a single torque step and then two 90 degree turns, with a 10 min settling time between. That was the case on the 603, anyway. Use new bolts, too -- cheaper than another head gasket set when they don't hold and it blows again. you would loosen the bolts from the ends of the cylinder head to the center. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] '91 300E, 103 engine
I use 89 octane (ethanol blend). On Sat, Aug 22, 2009 at 8:25 PM, OK Don wrote: > > Do you have to burn premium fuel, or will it adjust the timing for regular > or medium? > -- The young officer thought it very odd that his captain seemed to trust and confide in his chiefs more than his wardroom, but mustang officers had their own ways. -- Tom Clancy, Clear and Present Danger. -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/a33f0af3/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] pulling the head on my 140
So when I go to put it back together I do need to use new bolts? I wondered about that. Peter Frederick wrote: Yes, it does. Center out, as always, to avoid trapping stresses. Actual sequence depends on the gasket. Some are two torque steps, some are a single torque step and then two 90 degree turns, with a 10 min settling time between. That was the case on the 603, anyway. Use new bolts, too -- cheaper than another head gasket set when they don't hold and it blows again. you would loosen the bolts from the ends of the cylinder head to the center. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.64/2319 - Release Date: 08/22/09 06:06:00 -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/e1ac0dda/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] The head is off, not sure what to think yet
looking from the naked eye it seems the rest stick up just a bit past the deck, and #1 is flush. Also, I can see the cross hatch marks in all the cylinders, even #1 but I do not know if its just my imagination, the lighting or what but it seems like the marks in #1 are fainter than the rest. You could measure the ovality of #1 hole, and see if one new rod was called for, or whether the engine was now 'toast'. Or a set of six new rods, really. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] what do you folks think about this post?
I think that an acid flush, and a check of whether the recirculation sealing surface of the double-acting thermostat's housing was in good shape, would be called for. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] The head is off, not sure what to think yet
What is with all the oil around cylinders 1 and 6? Looks more like head gasket issue? Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark '87 300SDL (281,xxx mi) '85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x59,xxx mi) BioBeast '82 300CD (183 kmi) '82 300D (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold '85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine "The Accordion" Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: Well just got done getting the head off. Geez. Thought I had everything loose, would not come off, had a bracket from exhaust manifold to block still attached. OK, unhooked it, still would not come off. Discovered a head bolt I forgot to get loose, still wont come off. Another head bolt discovered, still wont, one last head bolt I did not see, now its loose. Manual talks like you pull the exhaust/turbo with the head, which I did and figured would be the easy way. One major snag was the oil line from the block to the turbo. If I had remembered this, I would have removed it from the block before pulling. Anyway, got the head off. I really suspect the #1 rod is bent a little when its at TDC, its pretty much flush with the deck. If you run a finger nail from piston to block, you can catch it on the block. On the rest of the cylinders, including #6, you cant catch it this way. If you run it the other way, block to piston, you will catch your nail that way. Not very scientific, and have not done any official measuring or anything, but just looking from the naked eye it seems the rest stick up just a bit past the deck, and #1 is flush. Also, I can see the cross hatch marks in all the cylinders, even #1 but I do not know if its just my imagination, the lighting or what but it seems like the marks in #1 are fainter than the rest. I dont know. I do know that #1 has alot of carbon and junk on the piston top and bottom of the head, #6 does also but not quite as much. The rest are pretty clean (see pics). I took pics, see if you guys can tell anything from them. Probably not but worth a shot. So, if I do have a bent rod, guess I could slap it back together and drive it till it blows up. I dont like that idea too well though since I already have put in this much work on it. Next idea is I could chance spending 3-350 for that supposedly good block on ebay. 3rd choice is I do still have that strange 603 engine sitting in my garage http://www.okiebenz.com/pics/603engine/ This engine has a #22 head on it. The 140 has a #17. If I do mess with this other 603 engine, I guess I should either A: Fill it up with oil and try to hook a starter to it and do a compression check on the ground, or B: pull the head on it while its not in a car and see what the pistons and cylinders look like on that engine??? Thoughts or ideas greatly appreciated Here are the pics: http://www.okiebenz.com/pics/603headremoved/ ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] '91 300E, 103 engine
I've never really checked mileage. Worse than a 240D, better than an S600. It requires premium. Check head gasket, and any mixing of oil in the coolant, and valve guides. Pull a few plugs and check the colour. Check the sills and jacking points, as at the age they are at, I've seen several with rust or worse. Check that the idle is right, and smooth. Lots of rubber bits in an old CIS system that can dry and allow air in. Not always a big deal or expensive to fix, but a bit of a pain at times to trace. Not a very complicated car, but check the same things as you would with other mercedes, that all the switches work, windows and roof open and close smooth and not too slow. Check all the locks, on the truck and gas filler flap door too. Give all the hosed under the hood a wiggle and pinch too, if original, they're all old and will fail at the worst time. (don't ask, lol). Easy to change, and cheap too I found, through Rusty. Good luck, if you find a nice one, they're really great cars. Ed 300E with about 360,000 kms. 2009/8/22 OK Don > How many miles per gallon can one expect to get, highway and/or mixed, in > one of these cars? > > Do you have to burn premium fuel, or will it adjust the timing for regular > or medium? > > What to look for other than the wiring harness, ACC, rear suspension links > ??? > > Does the 103 engine have the same serpentine belt tensioner that the > 602/603 > uses? > -- > OK Don > Pair of W124 300D 2.5 Turbos > -- next part -- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: < > http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/af6f2c43/attachment.html > > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/b67e455d/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] The head is off, not sure what to think yet
Kaleb: On the head job: head gasket is failed on # 1 and #6, #1 into the oil passage and #6 into the head bolt holes. May also have been blown into the water passages -- that glassy carbon is the result of water in the cylinders. Could be a sign of a cracked head, but it's not typical for #1 or 6 to crack (usually 3,4,and 5). I would DEFINITELY check #1 for correct height, if you have a bent rod that will be the one. My brother had to remove the head on his SDL to replace a broken exhaust stud and found the same thing, just earlier and no damage yet -- dodged a bullet there. Hint: use a torque wrench when installing the exhaust manifold. Those are spring gaskets, if you smash them flat the leak. Next time remember to remove the oil pipe from the block. It's a real pain to get back in place. Bolts onto the TOP of the tubotcharger. Mine leaked there until the car was smashed as I was going to install a new head (still have it in the garage) and didn't get to it before the crash. One the "strange" engine. Massive (bad) user modification. That abortion of an exhaust manifold had far more back pressure than the original plugged trap catalyst, I'd bet! No way you get adequate flow. The V-belts, oil pan, and crazy engine mounts are sloppy replacements for the factory ones. Stationary engine? All can be fixed if it didn't screw up the internals. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] The head is off, not sure what to think yet
OK, tell me exactly how to measure the cylinders. Does anybody have the specs? If its not oval, and the rod is in fact bent, I could probably get away with just replacing the rod. Hell, if Im going to do that, I might as well yank the engine and just put new rings and everything else in as well. Jim Cathey wrote: looking from the naked eye it seems the rest stick up just a bit past the deck, and #1 is flush. Also, I can see the cross hatch marks in all the cylinders, even #1 but I do not know if its just my imagination, the lighting or what but it seems like the marks in #1 are fainter than the rest. You could measure the ovality of #1 hole, and see if one new rod was called for, or whether the engine was now 'toast'. Or a set of six new rods, really. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.64/2319 - Release Date: 08/22/09 06:06:00 -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/850bd695/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] pulling the head on my 140
When I did the head on my SDL, there was a specific pattern given in the manual. Same pattern for both tightening and loosening. Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark '87 300SDL (281,xxx mi) '85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x59,xxx mi) BioBeast '82 300CD (183 kmi) '82 300D (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold '85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine "The Accordion" Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: So Im right in the middle of pulling the head on the 140. Im down to pulling the timing chain slide rail pins and removing the head bolts. I have the special MB slide hammer type tool for removing the pins but the WILL NOT budge at all. I have never had problems getting those out with this tool. Im thinking I need to try the other type of extractor tool. What do you guys think? Also, is there a certain order to removing the head bolts? WIS does not say anything about it. Damn, If I cant get those pins out with the tool I have, I will have to order the other till and wont be able to get the head off till next weekend at the earliest. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] The head is off, not sure what to think yet
About every since I have had the car, there has been quite a bit of oil on the outside of the engine above the alternator, could not tell where it was coming from though. Reason I pulled the head was because it had to be coming from the gasket. After pulling the head, it almost looks like it might have been sucking some oil from the timing chain area maybe. For sure something going on with #1 and #6 though. Benz Hogs wrote: What is with all the oil around cylinders 1 and 6? Looks more like head gasket issue? Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark '87 300SDL (281,xxx mi) '85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x59,xxx mi) BioBeast '82 300CD (183 kmi) '82 300D (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold '85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine "The Accordion" Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: Well just got done getting the head off. Geez. Thought I had everything loose, would not come off, had a bracket from exhaust manifold to block still attached. OK, unhooked it, still would not come off. Discovered a head bolt I forgot to get loose, still wont come off. Another head bolt discovered, still wont, one last head bolt I did not see, now its loose. Manual talks like you pull the exhaust/turbo with the head, which I did and figured would be the easy way. One major snag was the oil line from the block to the turbo. If I had remembered this, I would have removed it from the block before pulling. Anyway, got the head off. I really suspect the #1 rod is bent a little when its at TDC, its pretty much flush with the deck. If you run a finger nail from piston to block, you can catch it on the block. On the rest of the cylinders, including #6, you cant catch it this way. If you run it the other way, block to piston, you will catch your nail that way. Not very scientific, and have not done any official measuring or anything, but just looking from the naked eye it seems the rest stick up just a bit past the deck, and #1 is flush. Also, I can see the cross hatch marks in all the cylinders, even #1 but I do not know if its just my imagination, the lighting or what but it seems like the marks in #1 are fainter than the rest. I dont know. I do know that #1 has alot of carbon and junk on the piston top and bottom of the head, #6 does also but not quite as much. The rest are pretty clean (see pics). I took pics, see if you guys can tell anything from them. Probably not but worth a shot. So, if I do have a bent rod, guess I could slap it back together and drive it till it blows up. I dont like that idea too well though since I already have put in this much work on it. Next idea is I could chance spending 3-350 for that supposedly good block on ebay. 3rd choice is I do still have that strange 603 engine sitting in my garage http://www.okiebenz.com/pics/603engine/ This engine has a #22 head on it. The 140 has a #17. If I do mess with this other 603 engine, I guess I should either A: Fill it up with oil and try to hook a starter to it and do a compression check on the ground, or B: pull the head on it while its not in a car and see what the pistons and cylinders look like on that engine??? Thoughts or ideas greatly appreciated Here are the pics: http://www.okiebenz.com/pics/603headremoved/ ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] pulling the head on my 140
That was the recommendation I got from the guy who made his living working on MBs -- not cheap, but they tend to not hold very well the second time. Far less hassle than another head R&R, too. I had no choice, anyway, one broke off at the rear where the head gasket was blown into the bolt hole on #6. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] pulling the head on my 140
I measured the head bolts and all of mine were on the short end of the manual recommended range. 30,000mi+ later and the engine still runs like a top. Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark '87 300SDL (281,xxx mi) '85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x59,xxx mi) BioBeast '82 300CD (183 kmi) '82 300D (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold '85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine "The Accordion" Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: So when I go to put it back together I do need to use new bolts? I wondered about that. Peter Frederick wrote: Yes, it does. Center out, as always, to avoid trapping stresses. Actual sequence depends on the gasket. Some are two torque steps, some are a single torque step and then two 90 degree turns, with a 10 min settling time between. That was the case on the 603, anyway. Use new bolts, too -- cheaper than another head gasket set when they don't hold and it blows again. you would loosen the bolts from the ends of the cylinder head to the center. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] The head is off, not sure what to think yet
Engine was using increasing amounts of water as well, so it was a good call to pull the head off. I had hoped it would just be a simple head gasket job. Im suspect of #1 rod though. I just want to make sure I do this right, what is the best way to measure all this in simpleton terms? Anybody got the specs for deck hight etc? On the "strange" engine, I bought it on ebay a few years ago, was supposedly a military surplus engine. I paid something like $100 for it plus whatever the shipping way. I only bought it for the #22 head but once I got it and saw that part number plate, Im starting to think it might be one of those MB crate motors with the improved rods. Peter Frederick wrote: Kaleb: On the head job: head gasket is failed on # 1 and #6, #1 into the oil passage and #6 into the head bolt holes. May also have been blown into the water passages -- that glassy carbon is the result of water in the cylinders. Could be a sign of a cracked head, but it's not typical for #1 or 6 to crack (usually 3,4,and 5). I would DEFINITELY check #1 for correct height, if you have a bent rod that will be the one. My brother had to remove the head on his SDL to replace a broken exhaust stud and found the same thing, just earlier and no damage yet -- dodged a bullet there. Hint: use a torque wrench when installing the exhaust manifold. Those are spring gaskets, if you smash them flat the leak. Next time remember to remove the oil pipe from the block. It's a real pain to get back in place. Bolts onto the TOP of the tubotcharger. Mine leaked there until the car was smashed as I was going to install a new head (still have it in the garage) and didn't get to it before the crash. One the "strange" engine. Massive (bad) user modification. That abortion of an exhaust manifold had far more back pressure than the original plugged trap catalyst, I'd bet! No way you get adequate flow. The V-belts, oil pan, and crazy engine mounts are sloppy replacements for the factory ones. Stationary engine? All can be fixed if it didn't screw up the internals. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] pulling the head on my 140
new bolts are a little over $70 from Rusty. Peter Frederick wrote: That was the recommendation I got from the guy who made his living working on MBs -- not cheap, but they tend to not hold very well the second time. Far less hassle than another head R&R, too. I had no choice, anyway, one broke off at the rear where the head gasket was blown into the bolt hole on #6. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.64/2319 - Release Date: 08/22/09 06:06:00 -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/768dab36/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Have to explain everything
Personally, I do feel Mercedes would be responsible for the quality control, of the finished product, and all the assembled components on it, even if subcontract out to other manufactures. Yes, the subs would have their own inhouse quality control, but they are being built to Mercedes spec, as provided by Mercedes, and will carry an original equipment tag, so if there is a quality issue, the buck stops with the end manufacturer, or assembler. Ed 300E 2009/8/23 Hendrik & Fay Furthermore it has to be remembered that MBs are mostly made up of > components made by outside companies, the auto climate control in the US > W123 is a good example and you can't expect MB to be held responsible for > the quality control of other companies. > > Hendrik > > relng...@aol.com wrote: > >> ...So you've had all these dramas with MB over the years but still keep >>> buying these heaps? Are you a glutton for punishment?.. >>> >>> >>> >> I know you just don't get it. Plus, it was almost all warranty claims. >> >> Glutton? I am here, right? >> >> RLE >> >> >> >> >> > > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/bf053a2f/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] what do you folks think about this post?
Top driver's side of the radiator is a small neck (bleed for refilling?) and a tube that runs back to the overflow tank. Noticed today that the neck is held in place by two tabs -- the rear tab is broken off. Could this perhaps be preventing the system from pressurizing as it should? Anyone have a link for doing the acid flush? On Sat, Aug 22, 2009 at 8:52 PM, Jim Cathey wrote: > I think that an acid flush, and a check of whether > the recirculation sealing surface of the double-acting > thermostat's housing was in good shape, would be called > for. > > -- Jim > > > > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > -- The young officer thought it very odd that his captain seemed to trust and confide in his chiefs more than his wardroom, but mustang officers had their own ways. -- Tom Clancy, Clear and Present Danger. -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/b806d9d9/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] '91 300E, 103 engine
> Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 20:25:34 -0500 > From: OK Don > Subject: [MBZ] '91 300E, 103 engine > To: Mercedes Discussion List > Message-ID: ><437bc980908221825l38777fc5odc1c885ebcf18...@mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > How many miles per gallon can one expect to get, highway and/or mixed, in > one of these cars? > > Do you have to burn premium fuel, or will it adjust the timing for regular > or medium? > > What to look for other than the wiring harness, ACC, rear suspension links > ??? > > Does the 103 engine have the same serpentine belt tensioner that the > 602/603 > uses? > -- > OK Don > Pair of W124 300D 2.5 Turbos Don- Over about 50k miles my '92 300E w/2.6 motor goes about 20 MPG mixed highway/city, and up to about 24 with steady state cruise. Unless the 3.0 has much more low end grunt, a 2.5 turbo is a more relaxed driver especially in hilly country. MAY not be a consideration for you! The 103's don't have a knock sensor that I'm aware of and will provide ample audible grumpitude on regular 87 octane and even some 89 that the car doesn't like. As far as I know the 103 did not have the crumbling insulation; my recollection is that was a M104 "feature." And if the rear links are bad, go OEM only- lots of junk out there. My car still has functioning ACC, but the defrost pod does leak some and since I have the pass. airbag I don't want to mess with replacement. Also, the recirc diaphragm just failed within the past 2 weeks. Only caveat is the head gasket. Mine was replaced by the PO at 100k miles by a decent shop, head also rebuilt at the time. Was leaking again at 120k and I replaced two years ago with new head bolts. Now at 152k I've got leakage at the back corner. Tony Wirtel '92 300e/2.6, former 2.5 -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/a3148cf7/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] maybe Jaime can chime in on this?
tion and the > price is over $400. I really don't understand why Becker is so proud of > their radios which generally are about 3 years behind the technology > curve! > > Max > > -Original Message- > From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com > [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com ] On > Behalf Of Jim Cathey > Sent: Friday, August 21, 2009 10:50 AM > To: Mercedes Discussion List > Subject: Re: [MBZ] New radio choice: Sony vs. Kenwood > > > Yes and you mentioned the ease of use for the Sony deck. Always a > plus! > > Hate the Sony CD that's in Jill's SL. Kind of light-showy, and it > bee-boops at you several times every time you turn it off. Supposedly > to remind you to remove and hide the faceplate, and not an option that > can be disabled. > > Why oh why didn't Becker ever make a plain old slot-load CD, just like > the cassette Grand Prix, that'll drop into the car? I really like the > Beckers, except for the no CD. > They only made trunk-mount changers so far as I know, and there's wiring > issues there. (I'm speaking of things that could now be found used for > a nice price.) I'm facing replacing the noisy Becker in the SEL, but > it's an external amplifier job, with non-standard signal levels, that > promises to be a big PITA to do. (It's the head going out, already know > that. Makes loud digital burping noises periodically, quite > disturbing.) Wifey insists on a CD, one that can play the recorded > rehearsal CD's the symphony issues. > > -- Jim > -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/c6cfd31c/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] 1985 300TD Bumper Shocks
Can the bumper shock where it attaches to the bumper be re-attached or will i need to buy a new bumper? Thanks, Mike 1984 300D 1982 300SD ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] '91 300E, 103 engine
Thanks to all - I'm going to look at it tomorrow afternoon. -- OK Don Pair of W124 300D 2.5 Turbos -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/c4a8e1f9/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] pulling the head on my 140
We used new bolts on the '87 603 head - Iprobably still have the old ones if you want to measure them all (yours and mine) and use the best of the bunch. However, I'd just order a new set from Rusty with the gasket set. On Sat, Aug 22, 2009 at 9:00 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: > new bolts are a little over $70 from Rusty. > > > -- > OK Don > Pair of W124 300D 2.5 Turbos > > -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/ff3da7b3/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] what do you folks think about this post?
Do you have repair manual CD? I think it's on all of them. Anyone have a link for doing the acid flush? > > > -- > OK Don > Pair of W124 300D 2.5 Turbos > > -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/93ed27b8/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] still don't get it
Jeez, Hendrick, you are coming across like a real goober here.. Kleb asked for the stories. > > The part I don't get is you whine about how unreliable MBs are, list a > 100 or so faults you have had over the years but keep buying them, > whether they where fixed under warranty or not doesn't come into it > The hell it doesn't. By the time the warranty rebuilds the car, most of the problems remaining are livable and not so annoying. > > I would have thought you might have bought another brand to avoid the > weekly trip to the dealer to have your engine rebuild. > The problem here is that you have yet to discover that there really is no other car worth driving, despite all the grief, WHICH IS NOW OVER. > .So what is it Roger, are you satisfied with the reliability of > Benzes and they have not left you sitting on the side of the road...the rest > snipped as irrelevant twaddle. > Of course I am and that should be obvious. It's clear to me that anyone who changes cars every 7-8 years pisses you off and I know the real reason why. Get over it. > > ..Furthermore it has to be remembered that MBs are mostly made up of > components made by outside companies, the auto climate control in the US > W123 is a good example and you can't expect MB to be held responsible for the > quality control of other companies... > You have really put your foot in it now. MB is absolutely responsible for their suppliers' reliability. The most glowing example (screw those 123s, that was penny-ante shit) is the huge amount of warranty costs spent replacing electronic components in the early 203 and 211 models. Those cars cost MB their worldwide engineering reputation and affected sales for years. Maybe you missed that the CEO of that period was canned over the problem. MB did not vet the suppliers of the new electronic systems in the 203 and 211 adequately if at all and MB has admitted it out loud. But those problems are now over. The W221 and W204 models are coming in for routine maintenance only for the most part and I know that the new W212 will also be very reliable. Many of the old components that cause problems are not used any more. Fan clutches, AC compressor clutches, aux fans etc And torque converter drains are back. Brake pad life is 3-4 times longer than in the '80s, flex disks are no longer an early failure item. No more vacuum systems. Rack and pinion steering that doesn't feel like the W210's. You better watch out before you bring on one of your spells. RLE -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/04e94c8f/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] what do you folks think about this post?
I do. In fact, I consulted it today. Didn't notice the acid flush but, then again, was not looking for it. Will check tomorrow. On Sat, Aug 22, 2009 at 10:06 PM, OK Don wrote: > Do you have repair manual CD? I think it's on all of them. > > > > -- The young officer thought it very odd that his captain seemed to trust and confide in his chiefs more than his wardroom, but mustang officers had their own ways. -- Tom Clancy, Clear and Present Danger. -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/1daa0212/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] what do you folks think about this post?
I am still brain dead over its instructions on how to drain coolant. Open a plug on the engine block vs. drain from the bottom of the radiator like any other car I've even owned? ... I deferred that task for another afternoon! On Sat, Aug 22, 2009 at 10:06 PM, OK Don wrote: > Do you have repair manual CD? I think it's on all of them. > > > > -- The young officer thought it very odd that his captain seemed to trust and confide in his chiefs more than his wardroom, but mustang officers had their own ways. -- Tom Clancy, Clear and Present Danger. -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/14c3b8c1/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] what do you folks think about this post?
Do both - you can't get all the fluid out through the radiator. On Sat, Aug 22, 2009 at 10:15 PM, Wonko the Sane wrote: > I am still brain dead over its instructions on how to drain coolant. Open a > plug on the engine block vs. drain from the bottom of the radiator like any > other car I've even owned? ... I deferred that task for another afternoon! > > > -- > OK Don > Pair of W124 300D 2.5 Turbos > > -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/3ccadd17/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] what do you folks think about this post?
You can if you install a tee and back-flush with a hose until all you see is clear water. On Sat, Aug 22, 2009 at 10:44 PM, OK Don wrote: > Do both - you can't get all the fluid out through the radiator. > > > -- The young officer thought it very odd that his captain seemed to trust and confide in his chiefs more than his wardroom, but mustang officers had their own ways. -- Tom Clancy, Clear and Present Danger. -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20090822/ab710e44/attachment.html> ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] what do you folks think about this post?
> Wonko the Sane wrote: > I am still brain dead over its instructions on how to drain > coolant. Open a plug on the engine block vs. drain from the > bottom of the radiator like any other car I've even owned? ... > I deferred that task for another afternoon! When you open the radiator drain, it rarely drains the engine block. Most car service manual don't bother to mention that, or choose to ignore it. But Mercedes not only admits it, the instructions include "drain the radiator and the engine block." That way you actually get practically all the old stuff out. (There will still be a bit in the heater circuit). Sort of like the way GM doesn't put a drain plug on the torque converter, but Mercedes does. The moral is - there is no comparison. "Any other car I've ever owned" isn't the same as a Mercedes. --Philip ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] what do you folks think about this post?
held in place by two tabs -- the rear tab is broken off. Could this perhaps be preventing the system from pressurizing as it should? _Does_ the system pressurize as it should? Stop the car hot, and see if there's pressure to release. If there isn't, you'll have problems with overheating. Anyone have a link for doing the acid flush? I think it's in the manual. I also wrote down what I did in: http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/SDLcool.html -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
