Re: [MBZ] CL600 Gremlins
> and will cause great consternation for our local gendarmes once I let Mrs. > Dan get behind the wheel. They, unfortunately, will know _exactly_ what to do, and will probably be very happy to do it. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] CL600 Gremlins
Thanks for ‘splaining that! Hopefully, you can get another SAM online and restore your functions. Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 26, 2023, at 9:21 PM, dan penoff.com via Mercedes > wrote: > > Signal Acquisition Module (SAM) > > There are three or more in W220s and later models. They control a myriad of > things in the car and “talk” between each other and other systems on the > CANbus (data bus) that runs through the car. > > For instance, my right front SAM controls things like right side headlights, > interior and exterior lights, all sorts of different things. > > The big issue in the W220s was water intrusion. They had lots of problems > with SAMs getting wet (they’re an integral part of each major fusebox) and > acting up, mainly on one that was in the passenger footwell. > > They are coded to the car, however, that coding is very elementary in that it > really only deals with what options are on the car or not. If you replace one > with the same part and revision number, it’s going to work, but there’s a > remote possibility you could “lose” an option if it’s not coded. Coding is > done in DAS and just appears to consist of reading the function list for the > SAM and making sure all the stuff you need turned on is turned on. Once you > have it set, you re-code it and all is well. > > -D > >> On Mar 26, 2023, at 9:00 PM, Kevin Kraly via Mercedes >> wrote: >> >> Dan wrote: Lastly, the right front SAM is acting up… >> Who is SAM? I’ve never seen that acronym before. >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> On Mar 26, 2023, at 8:37 PM, dan penoff.com via Mercedes wrote: >>> >>> Took the car out for a shakedown run after I installed the new exterior >>> mirrors. >>> >>> OMG! >>> >>> This car has amazing power and acceleration. I think the Road and Track >>> review said they were able to do 0-60 in under six seconds, and I would >>> believe it. You definitely get some serious push back in the seat when you >>> stomp this thing. >>> >>> After the shakedown, I ran a quick test on it and found what I expected to >>> see - the left bank of cylinders misfiring, adaptations out of whack >>> because of the rich mixture getting to the O2 sensors, etc., etc. I got the >>> new set of coils ordered from the aftermarket guy. They should be here >>> later in the week. >>> >>> The right rear ABS sensor keeps coming up as open. Not sure if the wiring >>> is goofy or maybe the ESP module is acting up. It didn’t throw ESP or BAS >>> errors, but my ABS light was on all the time. >>> >>> Lastly, the right front SAM is acting up since I did the repair in the fuse >>> box. At least that’s when it was working for a short time, at least. A >>> mechanic very well versed in these models told me that SAM go kaput all >>> the time and I should just replace it. Found a good used on on eBay for >>> $50, that’s on the way tomorrow. >>> >>> For the most part everything is sorted. There are some less critical things >>> I need to address, but for the time being all the big stuff has been fixed >>> or is being dealt with. >>> >>> It is an amazing car and will cause great consternation for our local >>> gendarmes once I let Mrs. Dan get behind the wheel. >>> >>> -D >>> On Mar 25, 2023, at 3:54 PM, dan penoff.com via Mercedes wrote: Huzzah! Didn’t find any opens when testing the ESP wiring, but bugging it must have resolved the issue as I no longer have the fault. It would fire up immediately upon startup without even moving the car, and the last couple times I’ve started it they no longer appear. I’ll take it to the grocery store tomorrow for a test drive. Tomorrow I’ll pull the bumper to remove the headlights so I can repair the wiring and replace melted running light bulb sockets. This was enough of an issue that Mercedes sells the sockets with pigtails as service parts. I’m not getting any xenon headlight on the driver’s side, so I’ve got new Philips bulbs for both sides and a ballast just in case, too. Put the battery clamp in and installed a missing cargo net hook in the trunk. Looks like I’ll have to pull door cards in order to install the new exterior mirrors I got. Ugh. Not a bad job, just something I wish I didn’t have to do just to replace the mirrors. While I’m in there I’ll look for things that are amiss or missing, like the plastic barrier film, for example. Both seat adjusting panels are a bit loose, likely due to the PO ham-handing them in the past. -D >>> >>> ___ >>> http://www.okiebenz.com >>> >>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ >>> >>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: >>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com >>> >> >> ___ >> http://www.okiebenz.com >> >> To
Re: [MBZ] CL600 Gremlins
Signal Acquisition Module (SAM) There are three or more in W220s and later models. They control a myriad of things in the car and “talk” between each other and other systems on the CANbus (data bus) that runs through the car. For instance, my right front SAM controls things like right side headlights, interior and exterior lights, all sorts of different things. The big issue in the W220s was water intrusion. They had lots of problems with SAMs getting wet (they’re an integral part of each major fusebox) and acting up, mainly on one that was in the passenger footwell. They are coded to the car, however, that coding is very elementary in that it really only deals with what options are on the car or not. If you replace one with the same part and revision number, it’s going to work, but there’s a remote possibility you could “lose” an option if it’s not coded. Coding is done in DAS and just appears to consist of reading the function list for the SAM and making sure all the stuff you need turned on is turned on. Once you have it set, you re-code it and all is well. -D > On Mar 26, 2023, at 9:00 PM, Kevin Kraly via Mercedes > wrote: > > Dan wrote: Lastly, the right front SAM is acting up… > Who is SAM? I’ve never seen that acronym before. > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Mar 26, 2023, at 8:37 PM, dan penoff.com via Mercedes >> wrote: >> >> Took the car out for a shakedown run after I installed the new exterior >> mirrors. >> >> OMG! >> >> This car has amazing power and acceleration. I think the Road and Track >> review said they were able to do 0-60 in under six seconds, and I would >> believe it. You definitely get some serious push back in the seat when you >> stomp this thing. >> >> After the shakedown, I ran a quick test on it and found what I expected to >> see - the left bank of cylinders misfiring, adaptations out of whack because >> of the rich mixture getting to the O2 sensors, etc., etc. I got the new set >> of coils ordered from the aftermarket guy. They should be here later in the >> week. >> >> The right rear ABS sensor keeps coming up as open. Not sure if the wiring is >> goofy or maybe the ESP module is acting up. It didn’t throw ESP or BAS >> errors, but my ABS light was on all the time. >> >> Lastly, the right front SAM is acting up since I did the repair in the fuse >> box. At least that’s when it was working for a short time, at least. A >> mechanic very well versed in these models told me that SAM go kaput all the >> time and I should just replace it. Found a good used on on eBay for $50, >> that’s on the way tomorrow. >> >> For the most part everything is sorted. There are some less critical things >> I need to address, but for the time being all the big stuff has been fixed >> or is being dealt with. >> >> It is an amazing car and will cause great consternation for our local >> gendarmes once I let Mrs. Dan get behind the wheel. >> >> -D >> >>> On Mar 25, 2023, at 3:54 PM, dan penoff.com via Mercedes >>> wrote: >>> >>> Huzzah! >>> >>> Didn’t find any opens when testing the ESP wiring, but bugging it must have >>> resolved the issue as I no longer have the fault. It would fire up >>> immediately upon startup without even moving the car, and the last couple >>> times I’ve started it they no longer appear. >>> >>> I’ll take it to the grocery store tomorrow for a test drive. >>> >>> Tomorrow I’ll pull the bumper to remove the headlights so I can repair the >>> wiring and replace melted running light bulb sockets. This was enough of an >>> issue that Mercedes sells the sockets with pigtails as service parts. I’m >>> not getting any xenon headlight on the driver’s side, so I’ve got new >>> Philips bulbs for both sides and a ballast just in case, too. >>> >>> Put the battery clamp in and installed a missing cargo net hook in the >>> trunk. >>> >>> Looks like I’ll have to pull door cards in order to install the new >>> exterior mirrors I got. Ugh. Not a bad job, just something I wish I didn’t >>> have to do just to replace the mirrors. While I’m in there I’ll look for >>> things that are amiss or missing, like the plastic barrier film, for >>> example. Both seat adjusting panels are a bit loose, likely due to the PO >>> ham-handing them in the past. >>> >>> -D >> >> ___ >> http://www.okiebenz.com >> >> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ >> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com >> > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change
Re: [MBZ] CL600 Gremlins
Dan wrote: Lastly, the right front SAM is acting up… Who is SAM? I’ve never seen that acronym before. Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 26, 2023, at 8:37 PM, dan penoff.com via Mercedes > wrote: > > Took the car out for a shakedown run after I installed the new exterior > mirrors. > > OMG! > > This car has amazing power and acceleration. I think the Road and Track > review said they were able to do 0-60 in under six seconds, and I would > believe it. You definitely get some serious push back in the seat when you > stomp this thing. > > After the shakedown, I ran a quick test on it and found what I expected to > see - the left bank of cylinders misfiring, adaptations out of whack because > of the rich mixture getting to the O2 sensors, etc., etc. I got the new set > of coils ordered from the aftermarket guy. They should be here later in the > week. > > The right rear ABS sensor keeps coming up as open. Not sure if the wiring is > goofy or maybe the ESP module is acting up. It didn’t throw ESP or BAS > errors, but my ABS light was on all the time. > > Lastly, the right front SAM is acting up since I did the repair in the fuse > box. At least that’s when it was working for a short time, at least. A > mechanic very well versed in these models told me that SAM go kaput all the > time and I should just replace it. Found a good used on on eBay for $50, > that’s on the way tomorrow. > > For the most part everything is sorted. There are some less critical things I > need to address, but for the time being all the big stuff has been fixed or > is being dealt with. > > It is an amazing car and will cause great consternation for our local > gendarmes once I let Mrs. Dan get behind the wheel. > > -D > >> On Mar 25, 2023, at 3:54 PM, dan penoff.com via Mercedes >> wrote: >> >> Huzzah! >> >> Didn’t find any opens when testing the ESP wiring, but bugging it must have >> resolved the issue as I no longer have the fault. It would fire up >> immediately upon startup without even moving the car, and the last couple >> times I’ve started it they no longer appear. >> >> I’ll take it to the grocery store tomorrow for a test drive. >> >> Tomorrow I’ll pull the bumper to remove the headlights so I can repair the >> wiring and replace melted running light bulb sockets. This was enough of an >> issue that Mercedes sells the sockets with pigtails as service parts. I’m >> not getting any xenon headlight on the driver’s side, so I’ve got new >> Philips bulbs for both sides and a ballast just in case, too. >> >> Put the battery clamp in and installed a missing cargo net hook in the trunk. >> >> Looks like I’ll have to pull door cards in order to install the new exterior >> mirrors I got. Ugh. Not a bad job, just something I wish I didn’t have to do >> just to replace the mirrors. While I’m in there I’ll look for things that >> are amiss or missing, like the plastic barrier film, for example. Both seat >> adjusting panels are a bit loose, likely due to the PO ham-handing them in >> the past. >> >> -D > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] CL600 Gremlins
Took the car out for a shakedown run after I installed the new exterior mirrors. OMG! This car has amazing power and acceleration. I think the Road and Track review said they were able to do 0-60 in under six seconds, and I would believe it. You definitely get some serious push back in the seat when you stomp this thing. After the shakedown, I ran a quick test on it and found what I expected to see - the left bank of cylinders misfiring, adaptations out of whack because of the rich mixture getting to the O2 sensors, etc., etc. I got the new set of coils ordered from the aftermarket guy. They should be here later in the week. The right rear ABS sensor keeps coming up as open. Not sure if the wiring is goofy or maybe the ESP module is acting up. It didn’t throw ESP or BAS errors, but my ABS light was on all the time. Lastly, the right front SAM is acting up since I did the repair in the fuse box. At least that’s when it was working for a short time, at least. A mechanic very well versed in these models told me that SAM go kaput all the time and I should just replace it. Found a good used on on eBay for $50, that’s on the way tomorrow. For the most part everything is sorted. There are some less critical things I need to address, but for the time being all the big stuff has been fixed or is being dealt with. It is an amazing car and will cause great consternation for our local gendarmes once I let Mrs. Dan get behind the wheel. -D > On Mar 25, 2023, at 3:54 PM, dan penoff.com via Mercedes > wrote: > > Huzzah! > > Didn’t find any opens when testing the ESP wiring, but bugging it must have > resolved the issue as I no longer have the fault. It would fire up > immediately upon startup without even moving the car, and the last couple > times I’ve started it they no longer appear. > > I’ll take it to the grocery store tomorrow for a test drive. > > Tomorrow I’ll pull the bumper to remove the headlights so I can repair the > wiring and replace melted running light bulb sockets. This was enough of an > issue that Mercedes sells the sockets with pigtails as service parts. I’m not > getting any xenon headlight on the driver’s side, so I’ve got new Philips > bulbs for both sides and a ballast just in case, too. > > Put the battery clamp in and installed a missing cargo net hook in the trunk. > > Looks like I’ll have to pull door cards in order to install the new exterior > mirrors I got. Ugh. Not a bad job, just something I wish I didn’t have to do > just to replace the mirrors. While I’m in there I’ll look for things that are > amiss or missing, like the plastic barrier film, for example. Both seat > adjusting panels are a bit loose, likely due to the PO ham-handing them in > the past. > > -D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] CL600 Gremlins
Huzzah! Didn’t find any opens when testing the ESP wiring, but bugging it must have resolved the issue as I no longer have the fault. It would fire up immediately upon startup without even moving the car, and the last couple times I’ve started it they no longer appear. I’ll take it to the grocery store tomorrow for a test drive. Tomorrow I’ll pull the bumper to remove the headlights so I can repair the wiring and replace melted running light bulb sockets. This was enough of an issue that Mercedes sells the sockets with pigtails as service parts. I’m not getting any xenon headlight on the driver’s side, so I’ve got new Philips bulbs for both sides and a ballast just in case, too. Put the battery clamp in and installed a missing cargo net hook in the trunk. Looks like I’ll have to pull door cards in order to install the new exterior mirrors I got. Ugh. Not a bad job, just something I wish I didn’t have to do just to replace the mirrors. While I’m in there I’ll look for things that are amiss or missing, like the plastic barrier film, for example. Both seat adjusting panels are a bit loose, likely due to the PO ham-handing them in the past. -D > On Mar 25, 2023, at 2:50 PM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes > wrote: > > yup. too much unnecessary technology. > > On Sat, Mar 25, 2023, 12:21 PM Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes < > mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote: > >> If you only knew what I’m dealing with on my mom’s 2005 G500. I don’t >> think I’ll ever buy a post early nineties Mercedes. >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On Mar 25, 2023, at 11:45 AM, dan penoff.com via Mercedes < >> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote: >>> >>> We like the simple fixes, but are still pondering why that connection >> in the fusebox is bad. Hmm. >>> >>> -D >>> On Mar 25, 2023, at 11:19 AM, Kevin Kraly via Mercedes < >> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote: Attaboy!! Sent from my iPhone >> On Mar 25, 2023, at 11:16 AM, dan penoff.com via Mercedes < >> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote: > > So the major issue with the CL600 when I got it was that the right >> door was dead. These cars have a reputation for the harnesses to break down >> in the door hinge, as it’s a weird articulated setup that allows the door >> to move “out” while pivoting. I was assuming that the harness had broken, >> easy fix. > > Not so. > > So when I started investigating this morning, I found that the right >> door fuse (39) had no power to it in the fusebox. Hmm. The fuses are in a >> two fuse block that plugs into the bus on the fuse block in the right front >> fusebox. I had no power to either fuse when the ignition was turned on. > > I removed the fuse block containing the two fuses, one of which was >> the fuse powering the door. The way these are set up is that they have two >> plugs that go into the fusebox, but only one of these plugs has a >> connection. The same connector that makes a connection with the fuse box >> has a jumper of sorts inside the fuse block that connects the hot side of >> the two fuses together. > > With the fuse block removed from the fuse box, I checked for power on >> the two pins that were below the fuse block. Remember that only one of >> these is actually connected to the fuses when the fuse block is plugged >> into the fuse box. > > The pin that would have made contact with the fuse block was dead. >> That’s the reason why I had no power to the right door. The other pin, >> under fuse #38, which was not connected to the fuse block, had power. >> Looking at the wiring diagram for the fuse box, these two pins are common >> to each other, so it makes no difference which one was suppling power to >> the fuse block. > > I was able to disassemble the fuse block and with some tedious but >> careful work using a cut off coping saw blade, dental picks and an Xacto >> knife, I was able to cut out the parts of the fuse block that were molded >> in to prevent reversing of the internal connector piece. Once that was done >> I could reverse it so that it would contact the other pin when the fuse >> block was installed. > > Power to the right door and all functions have been restored. Yay!! > > Now I need to find out why the signal from the right rear ABS sensor >> isn’t getting to the ESP module and I should have everything resolved. > > -D > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com >>> >>>
Re: [MBZ] CL600 Gremlins
yup. too much unnecessary technology. On Sat, Mar 25, 2023, 12:21 PM Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes < mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote: > If you only knew what I’m dealing with on my mom’s 2005 G500. I don’t > think I’ll ever buy a post early nineties Mercedes. > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Mar 25, 2023, at 11:45 AM, dan penoff.com via Mercedes < > mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote: > > > > We like the simple fixes, but are still pondering why that connection > in the fusebox is bad. Hmm. > > > > -D > > > >> On Mar 25, 2023, at 11:19 AM, Kevin Kraly via Mercedes < > mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote: > >> > >> Attaboy!! > >> > >> Sent from my iPhone > >> > On Mar 25, 2023, at 11:16 AM, dan penoff.com via Mercedes < > mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote: > >>> > >>> So the major issue with the CL600 when I got it was that the right > door was dead. These cars have a reputation for the harnesses to break down > in the door hinge, as it’s a weird articulated setup that allows the door > to move “out” while pivoting. I was assuming that the harness had broken, > easy fix. > >>> > >>> Not so. > >>> > >>> So when I started investigating this morning, I found that the right > door fuse (39) had no power to it in the fusebox. Hmm. The fuses are in a > two fuse block that plugs into the bus on the fuse block in the right front > fusebox. I had no power to either fuse when the ignition was turned on. > >>> > >>> I removed the fuse block containing the two fuses, one of which was > the fuse powering the door. The way these are set up is that they have two > plugs that go into the fusebox, but only one of these plugs has a > connection. The same connector that makes a connection with the fuse box > has a jumper of sorts inside the fuse block that connects the hot side of > the two fuses together. > >>> > >>> With the fuse block removed from the fuse box, I checked for power on > the two pins that were below the fuse block. Remember that only one of > these is actually connected to the fuses when the fuse block is plugged > into the fuse box. > >>> > >>> The pin that would have made contact with the fuse block was dead. > That’s the reason why I had no power to the right door. The other pin, > under fuse #38, which was not connected to the fuse block, had power. > Looking at the wiring diagram for the fuse box, these two pins are common > to each other, so it makes no difference which one was suppling power to > the fuse block. > >>> > >>> I was able to disassemble the fuse block and with some tedious but > careful work using a cut off coping saw blade, dental picks and an Xacto > knife, I was able to cut out the parts of the fuse block that were molded > in to prevent reversing of the internal connector piece. Once that was done > I could reverse it so that it would contact the other pin when the fuse > block was installed. > >>> > >>> Power to the right door and all functions have been restored. Yay!! > >>> > >>> Now I need to find out why the signal from the right rear ABS sensor > isn’t getting to the ESP module and I should have everything resolved. > >>> > >>> -D > >>> ___ > >>> http://www.okiebenz.com > >>> > >>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > >>> > >>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > >>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > >>> > >> > >> ___ > >> http://www.okiebenz.com > >> > >> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > >> > >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > >> > > > > ___ > > http://www.okiebenz.com > > > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > > > > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] CL600 Gremlins
I totally understand. Had this car not been a heck of a deal and had such great provenance I would have passed on it. I encountered the same feeling of doom you allude to with the former S430 that Floyd was so kind as to help me buy from a former neighbor in Houston - when I saw the electronic complexity of it in DAS, I freaked. Reading the BanzWhirled W220 forum to research issues with the CL600 brought back a lot of that fear, too. That being said, most, not all, of the issues can be addressed and are documented online somewhere. I’m sure there are obscure issues that can’t be resolved, but just like the W140 chassis, a lot of people are freaked out by the complexity. Once I became familiar with the W140 and how everything worked, I was a lot more comfortable with it. Because of the time and effort that can be required to troubleshoot these cars, a lot of service providers won’t work on them. People won’t pay for the time required, and warrantying repairs can end up being a rabbit hole of costs that never ends. As a result, I can see why people walk away from these. So far, so good. I’ve also got issues with misfires on the left cylinder bank, but that was a known issue when I bought the car. There are far better solutions for the coils in the aftermarket that address the weak points in the OE system, so those will be employed. The right bank already has an aftermarket coil set on it from the same vendor. Lucky for me the PO didn’t return the core, so I’ll be able to use that to offset the cost of the left side bank when I replace it. -D > On Mar 25, 2023, at 12:20 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote: > > If you only knew what I’m dealing with on my mom’s 2005 G500. I don’t think > I’ll ever buy a post early nineties Mercedes. > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Mar 25, 2023, at 11:45 AM, dan penoff.com via Mercedes >> wrote: >> >> We like the simple fixes, but are still pondering why that connection in >> the fusebox is bad. Hmm. >> >> -D >> >>> On Mar 25, 2023, at 11:19 AM, Kevin Kraly via Mercedes >>> wrote: >>> >>> Attaboy!! >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> > On Mar 25, 2023, at 11:16 AM, dan penoff.com via Mercedes > wrote: So the major issue with the CL600 when I got it was that the right door was dead. These cars have a reputation for the harnesses to break down in the door hinge, as it’s a weird articulated setup that allows the door to move “out” while pivoting. I was assuming that the harness had broken, easy fix. Not so. So when I started investigating this morning, I found that the right door fuse (39) had no power to it in the fusebox. Hmm. The fuses are in a two fuse block that plugs into the bus on the fuse block in the right front fusebox. I had no power to either fuse when the ignition was turned on. I removed the fuse block containing the two fuses, one of which was the fuse powering the door. The way these are set up is that they have two plugs that go into the fusebox, but only one of these plugs has a connection. The same connector that makes a connection with the fuse box has a jumper of sorts inside the fuse block that connects the hot side of the two fuses together. With the fuse block removed from the fuse box, I checked for power on the two pins that were below the fuse block. Remember that only one of these is actually connected to the fuses when the fuse block is plugged into the fuse box. The pin that would have made contact with the fuse block was dead. That’s the reason why I had no power to the right door. The other pin, under fuse #38, which was not connected to the fuse block, had power. Looking at the wiring diagram for the fuse box, these two pins are common to each other, so it makes no difference which one was suppling power to the fuse block. I was able to disassemble the fuse block and with some tedious but careful work using a cut off coping saw blade, dental picks and an Xacto knife, I was able to cut out the parts of the fuse block that were molded in to prevent reversing of the internal connector piece. Once that was done I could reverse it so that it would contact the other pin when the fuse block was installed. Power to the right door and all functions have been restored. Yay!! Now I need to find out why the signal from the right rear ABS sensor isn’t getting to the ESP module and I should have everything resolved. -D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com >>> >>> ___ >>>
Re: [MBZ] CL600 Gremlins
If you only knew what I’m dealing with on my mom’s 2005 G500. I don’t think I’ll ever buy a post early nineties Mercedes. Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 25, 2023, at 11:45 AM, dan penoff.com via Mercedes > wrote: > > We like the simple fixes, but are still pondering why that connection in the > fusebox is bad. Hmm. > > -D > >> On Mar 25, 2023, at 11:19 AM, Kevin Kraly via Mercedes >> wrote: >> >> Attaboy!! >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> On Mar 25, 2023, at 11:16 AM, dan penoff.com via Mercedes wrote: >>> >>> So the major issue with the CL600 when I got it was that the right door >>> was dead. These cars have a reputation for the harnesses to break down in >>> the door hinge, as it’s a weird articulated setup that allows the door to >>> move “out” while pivoting. I was assuming that the harness had broken, easy >>> fix. >>> >>> Not so. >>> >>> So when I started investigating this morning, I found that the right door >>> fuse (39) had no power to it in the fusebox. Hmm. The fuses are in a two >>> fuse block that plugs into the bus on the fuse block in the right front >>> fusebox. I had no power to either fuse when the ignition was turned on. >>> >>> I removed the fuse block containing the two fuses, one of which was the >>> fuse powering the door. The way these are set up is that they have two >>> plugs that go into the fusebox, but only one of these plugs has a >>> connection. The same connector that makes a connection with the fuse box >>> has a jumper of sorts inside the fuse block that connects the hot side of >>> the two fuses together. >>> >>> With the fuse block removed from the fuse box, I checked for power on the >>> two pins that were below the fuse block. Remember that only one of these is >>> actually connected to the fuses when the fuse block is plugged into the >>> fuse box. >>> >>> The pin that would have made contact with the fuse block was dead. That’s >>> the reason why I had no power to the right door. The other pin, under fuse >>> #38, which was not connected to the fuse block, had power. Looking at the >>> wiring diagram for the fuse box, these two pins are common to each other, >>> so it makes no difference which one was suppling power to the fuse block. >>> >>> I was able to disassemble the fuse block and with some tedious but careful >>> work using a cut off coping saw blade, dental picks and an Xacto knife, I >>> was able to cut out the parts of the fuse block that were molded in to >>> prevent reversing of the internal connector piece. Once that was done I >>> could reverse it so that it would contact the other pin when the fuse block >>> was installed. >>> >>> Power to the right door and all functions have been restored. Yay!! >>> >>> Now I need to find out why the signal from the right rear ABS sensor isn’t >>> getting to the ESP module and I should have everything resolved. >>> >>> -D >>> ___ >>> http://www.okiebenz.com >>> >>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ >>> >>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: >>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com >>> >> >> ___ >> http://www.okiebenz.com >> >> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ >> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com >> > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] CL600 Gremlins
We like the simple fixes, but are still pondering why that connection in the fusebox is bad. Hmm. -D > On Mar 25, 2023, at 11:19 AM, Kevin Kraly via Mercedes > wrote: > > Attaboy!! > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Mar 25, 2023, at 11:16 AM, dan penoff.com via Mercedes >> wrote: >> >> So the major issue with the CL600 when I got it was that the right door was >> dead. These cars have a reputation for the harnesses to break down in the >> door hinge, as it’s a weird articulated setup that allows the door to move >> “out” while pivoting. I was assuming that the harness had broken, easy fix. >> >> Not so. >> >> So when I started investigating this morning, I found that the right door >> fuse (39) had no power to it in the fusebox. Hmm. The fuses are in a two >> fuse block that plugs into the bus on the fuse block in the right front >> fusebox. I had no power to either fuse when the ignition was turned on. >> >> I removed the fuse block containing the two fuses, one of which was the fuse >> powering the door. The way these are set up is that they have two plugs that >> go into the fusebox, but only one of these plugs has a connection. The same >> connector that makes a connection with the fuse box has a jumper of sorts >> inside the fuse block that connects the hot side of the two fuses together. >> >> With the fuse block removed from the fuse box, I checked for power on the >> two pins that were below the fuse block. Remember that only one of these is >> actually connected to the fuses when the fuse block is plugged into the fuse >> box. >> >> The pin that would have made contact with the fuse block was dead. That’s >> the reason why I had no power to the right door. The other pin, under fuse >> #38, which was not connected to the fuse block, had power. Looking at the >> wiring diagram for the fuse box, these two pins are common to each other, so >> it makes no difference which one was suppling power to the fuse block. >> >> I was able to disassemble the fuse block and with some tedious but careful >> work using a cut off coping saw blade, dental picks and an Xacto knife, I >> was able to cut out the parts of the fuse block that were molded in to >> prevent reversing of the internal connector piece. Once that was done I >> could reverse it so that it would contact the other pin when the fuse block >> was installed. >> >> Power to the right door and all functions have been restored. Yay!! >> >> Now I need to find out why the signal from the right rear ABS sensor isn’t >> getting to the ESP module and I should have everything resolved. >> >> -D >> ___ >> http://www.okiebenz.com >> >> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ >> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com >> > > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] CL600 Gremlins
Attaboy!! Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 25, 2023, at 11:16 AM, dan penoff.com via Mercedes > wrote: > > So the major issue with the CL600 when I got it was that the right door was > dead. These cars have a reputation for the harnesses to break down in the > door hinge, as it’s a weird articulated setup that allows the door to move > “out” while pivoting. I was assuming that the harness had broken, easy fix. > > Not so. > > So when I started investigating this morning, I found that the right door > fuse (39) had no power to it in the fusebox. Hmm. The fuses are in a two fuse > block that plugs into the bus on the fuse block in the right front fusebox. I > had no power to either fuse when the ignition was turned on. > > I removed the fuse block containing the two fuses, one of which was the fuse > powering the door. The way these are set up is that they have two plugs that > go into the fusebox, but only one of these plugs has a connection. The same > connector that makes a connection with the fuse box has a jumper of sorts > inside the fuse block that connects the hot side of the two fuses together. > > With the fuse block removed from the fuse box, I checked for power on the two > pins that were below the fuse block. Remember that only one of these is > actually connected to the fuses when the fuse block is plugged into the fuse > box. > > The pin that would have made contact with the fuse block was dead. That’s the > reason why I had no power to the right door. The other pin, under fuse #38, > which was not connected to the fuse block, had power. Looking at the wiring > diagram for the fuse box, these two pins are common to each other, so it > makes no difference which one was suppling power to the fuse block. > > I was able to disassemble the fuse block and with some tedious but careful > work using a cut off coping saw blade, dental picks and an Xacto knife, I was > able to cut out the parts of the fuse block that were molded in to prevent > reversing of the internal connector piece. Once that was done I could reverse > it so that it would contact the other pin when the fuse block was installed. > > Power to the right door and all functions have been restored. Yay!! > > Now I need to find out why the signal from the right rear ABS sensor isn’t > getting to the ESP module and I should have everything resolved. > > -D > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] CL600 Gremlins
So the major issue with the CL600 when I got it was that the right door was dead. These cars have a reputation for the harnesses to break down in the door hinge, as it’s a weird articulated setup that allows the door to move “out” while pivoting. I was assuming that the harness had broken, easy fix. Not so. So when I started investigating this morning, I found that the right door fuse (39) had no power to it in the fusebox. Hmm. The fuses are in a two fuse block that plugs into the bus on the fuse block in the right front fusebox. I had no power to either fuse when the ignition was turned on. I removed the fuse block containing the two fuses, one of which was the fuse powering the door. The way these are set up is that they have two plugs that go into the fusebox, but only one of these plugs has a connection. The same connector that makes a connection with the fuse box has a jumper of sorts inside the fuse block that connects the hot side of the two fuses together. With the fuse block removed from the fuse box, I checked for power on the two pins that were below the fuse block. Remember that only one of these is actually connected to the fuses when the fuse block is plugged into the fuse box. The pin that would have made contact with the fuse block was dead. That’s the reason why I had no power to the right door. The other pin, under fuse #38, which was not connected to the fuse block, had power. Looking at the wiring diagram for the fuse box, these two pins are common to each other, so it makes no difference which one was suppling power to the fuse block. I was able to disassemble the fuse block and with some tedious but careful work using a cut off coping saw blade, dental picks and an Xacto knife, I was able to cut out the parts of the fuse block that were molded in to prevent reversing of the internal connector piece. Once that was done I could reverse it so that it would contact the other pin when the fuse block was installed. Power to the right door and all functions have been restored. Yay!! Now I need to find out why the signal from the right rear ABS sensor isn’t getting to the ESP module and I should have everything resolved. -D ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
