[MBZ] Don's cars, was Class system
Nope - still have it. My wife didn't want to sell it, and found $$ to pay for the heat pump. The PBU was working for several weeks, then decided to do it's own thing again - sometimes cold, sometimes hot - will turn it's self on after you've pushed the off button, etc. I've re-soldered the PBU once already, but the fix didn't last all that long. I bought another one from you, that I'm going to re solder, treat the switches with deoxit, etc. before installing. This time I'm going to remove the old solder and replace with new instead of just melting the old like I did last time. I will be selling the SLC once I get the interior put together a bit more - I have just too many cars now, it's not quite as much fun to drive as I remembered, and it burns gasoline. I need to make room for the 190D 5 speed that I'll find someday I'll be up this Sunday to get those wheels --- On 11/27/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: You have not sold it yet? What sort if intermittant ACC problem are you having? -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives. Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
Re: [MBZ] Don's cars, was Class system
switches with deoxit, etc. before installing. This time I'm going to remove the old solder and replace with new instead of just melting the old like I did last time. If you didn't add any new solder during the resoldering, you didn't do it right. It's not so much the new solder that helps, it's the new flux you get with it. Reheating old crystalline oxidized joints is an exercise in futility. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Don's cars, was Class system
Ah, so now he tells me... On 11/27/06, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: If you didn't add any new solder during the resoldering, you didn't do it right. It's not so much the new solder that helps, it's the new flux you get with it. Reheating old crystalline oxidized joints is an exercise in futility. Casey Olympia, WA Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state '87 300TD intercooler/propane #22 0-60mph 7.3sec (220k) '84 300D (218k) Gashuffer: '89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K) http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG
Re: [MBZ] Don's cars, was Class system
-BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE- Hash: SHA1 Actually, if any significant amount of old solder is left, you didn't do it right. The old solder should be removed with a solder wick or vacuum (both available at radio shack) and replaced entirely. I would also use a small amount of non-corrosive liquid flux in addition to brand new flux core solder for a good connection that will last at least as long again as the factory one did. Tyler On Nov 27, 2006, at 7:15 PM, Jim Cathey wrote: If you didn't add any new solder during the resoldering, you didn't do it right. It's not so much the new solder that helps, it's the new flux you get with it. Reheating old crystalline oxidized joints is an exercise in futility. -BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE- Version: GnuPG v1.4.5 (Darwin) iD8DBQFFa61Jt178NxI/higRAqPiAJsHG+/E6yZ5ktiTt78/4XgCVc0DwACeJkty tPFPTFLV+JcoyszEpAbYGVk= =qC01 -END PGP SIGNATURE-
Re: [MBZ] Don's cars, was Class system
Yup - I can attest to the accuracy of that statement! I've un-earthed my trusty Paladin solder sucker - will attack the PBU soon! If you didn't add any new solder during the resoldering, you didn't do it right. It's not so much the new solder that helps, it's the new flux you get with it. Reheating old crystalline oxidized joints is an exercise in futility. -- Jim -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives. Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
