Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re: Another oil thread

2013-04-15 Thread John Reames
If the fittings really won't budge, your worse case bet is to use a dremel or 
similar and cut-off wheels to split the nut. If you are careful, you can avoid 
nicking the threads on the oil cooler. 

I ended up having to split the nut in two places on an aluminum cooler in a 99. 
Cut the line off flush with the nut, then you can fully split the nut at the 
back; make a couple of passes so you can get a screwdriver in there to help 
wedge it open, then slit along the sides, cutting just deep enough to see the 
beginnings of the threads. The rest will break easily once you wedge open the 
split.

--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Apr 13, 2013, at 22:46, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

 Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com writes:
 
 3.) If time permits, apply a generous amount of penetrating fluid to
 the fittings at the oil cooler.  There are dissimilar metals and tend
 to gall when removed, sometimes badly enough that the oil cooler
 requires replacement.
 
 I used the acetone and ATF recipe for this, and it worked well when I
 replaced the lines on my W123.
 
 Also be sure you use a wrench on both sides of the fitting, so you don't
 twist the fitting out of the cooler.
 
 Allan
 -- 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re: Another oil thread

2013-04-15 Thread LarryT
Thanks Max!  it did not appear in my Mercedes folder so I need to look 
for it...


LarryT
91 300D

On 4/14/2013 3:37 PM, Max Dillon wrote:

I see your test email...



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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re: Another oil thread

2013-04-15 Thread Randy Bennell

Does one dare use heat?

Randy


On 15/04/2013 5:30 AM, John Reames wrote:

If the fittings really won't budge, your worse case bet is to use a dremel or 
similar and cut-off wheels to split the nut. If you are careful, you can avoid 
nicking the threads on the oil cooler.

I ended up having to split the nut in two places on an aluminum cooler in a 99. 
Cut the line off flush with the nut, then you can fully split the nut at the 
back; make a couple of passes so you can get a screwdriver in there to help 
wedge it open, then slit along the sides, cutting just deep enough to see the 
beginnings of the threads. The rest will break easily once you wedge open the 
split.

--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Apr 13, 2013, at 22:46, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:


Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com writes:


3.) If time permits, apply a generous amount of penetrating fluid to
the fittings at the oil cooler.  There are dissimilar metals and tend
to gall when removed, sometimes badly enough that the oil cooler
requires replacement.

I used the acetone and ATF recipe for this, and it worked well when I
replaced the lines on my W123.

Also be sure you use a wrench on both sides of the fitting, so you don't
twist the fitting out of the cooler.

Allan
--


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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re: Another oil thread

2013-04-15 Thread Dan Penoff
Probably not, as you have a fitting that is brazed to the oil cooler.  
Compromise the joint between the fitting and oil cooler and you're no better 
off than if you goober up the fitting.

Dan


On Apr 15, 2013, at 12:09 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:

 Does one dare use heat?
 
 Randy
 
 
 On 15/04/2013 5:30 AM, John Reames wrote:
 If the fittings really won't budge, your worse case bet is to use a dremel 
 or similar and cut-off wheels to split the nut. If you are careful, you can 
 avoid nicking the threads on the oil cooler.
 
 I ended up having to split the nut in two places on an aluminum cooler in a 
 99. Cut the line off flush with the nut, then you can fully split the nut at 
 the back; make a couple of passes so you can get a screwdriver in there to 
 help wedge it open, then slit along the sides, cutting just deep enough to 
 see the beginnings of the threads. The rest will break easily once you wedge 
 open the split.
 
 --
 John W Reames
 jream...@verizon.net
 Home: +14106646986
 Mobile: +14437915905
 
 On Apr 13, 2013, at 22:46, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:
 
 Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com writes:
 
 3.) If time permits, apply a generous amount of penetrating fluid to
 the fittings at the oil cooler.  There are dissimilar metals and tend
 to gall when removed, sometimes badly enough that the oil cooler
 requires replacement.
 I used the acetone and ATF recipe for this, and it worked well when I
 replaced the lines on my W123.
 
 Also be sure you use a wrench on both sides of the fitting, so you don't
 twist the fitting out of the cooler.
 
 Allan
 -- 
 
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
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 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re: Another oil thread

2013-04-15 Thread Tim Crone
Per Rusty's site I need the older, NLA version of the cooler line.  Am I
able to use the newer version and re-route it, or do I just have to hope I
don't break these fittings?

Thanks,
Tim


On Mon, Apr 15, 2013 at 12:24 PM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:

 Probably not, as you have a fitting that is brazed to the oil cooler.
  Compromise the joint between the fitting and oil cooler and you're no
 better off than if you goober up the fitting.

 Dan


 On Apr 15, 2013, at 12:09 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:

  Does one dare use heat?
 
  Randy
 
 
  On 15/04/2013 5:30 AM, John Reames wrote:
  If the fittings really won't budge, your worse case bet is to use a
 dremel or similar and cut-off wheels to split the nut. If you are careful,
 you can avoid nicking the threads on the oil cooler.
 
  I ended up having to split the nut in two places on an aluminum cooler
 in a 99. Cut the line off flush with the nut, then you can fully split the
 nut at the back; make a couple of passes so you can get a screwdriver in
 there to help wedge it open, then slit along the sides, cutting just deep
 enough to see the beginnings of the threads. The rest will break easily
 once you wedge open the split.
 
  --
  John W Reames
  jream...@verizon.net
  Home: +14106646986
  Mobile: +14437915905
 
  On Apr 13, 2013, at 22:46, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:
 
  Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com writes:
 
  3.) If time permits, apply a generous amount of penetrating fluid to
  the fittings at the oil cooler.  There are dissimilar metals and tend
  to gall when removed, sometimes badly enough that the oil cooler
  requires replacement.
  I used the acetone and ATF recipe for this, and it worked well when I
  replaced the lines on my W123.
 
  Also be sure you use a wrench on both sides of the fitting, so you
 don't
  twist the fitting out of the cooler.
 
  Allan
  --
 
 
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
  To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
  ___
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  To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
  ___
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  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re: Another oil thread

2013-04-14 Thread Gerry Archer

I used old dino ATF and it mixed okay.
Gerry

From: OK Don okd...@gmail.com

I tried mixing up the recipe using Mobil 1 ATF - it would not mix at all
with the acetone. Does any other ATF mix with acetone?

On Sat, Apr 13, 2013 at 9:46 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu 
wrote:

I used the acetone and ATF recipe for this, and it worked well when I
replaced the lines on my W123.
Allan



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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re: Another oil thread

2013-04-14 Thread Allan Streib
I used M1 ATF actually, because it's what I had on hand.  I doubt it
matters much for this use.  It didn't really mix but sort of went into
suspension like oil/vinegar salad dressing.  Eventually the ATF would
settle out again, but as the acteone evaporates pretty quickly anyway I
don't try to store it; I just make a small batch whenever I need it.

So I would just stir it up and use an eyedropper to saturate the
fitting.  I'm guessing that how it works is that the capillary action
drawing the acetone into the threads pulls some ATF along for the ride.

Allan


OK Don okd...@gmail.com writes:

 I tried mixing up the recipe using Mobil 1 ATF - it would not mix at all
 with the acetone. Does any other ATF mix with acetone?


 On Sat, Apr 13, 2013 at 9:46 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

 I used the acetone and ATF recipe for this, and it worked well when I
 replaced the lines on my W123.

 Allan
 --




 -- 
 OK Don
 2013 F150
 2012 Passat TDI DSG
 1957 C182A
 ___
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-- 
Allan Streib

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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re: Another oil thread

2013-04-14 Thread LarryT
Testing - sent a couple of posts and they never appeared  if this 
gets through please post on the list that my email got through...


Thanks!
LarryT
91 300D

On 4/14/2013 1:15 PM, Allan Streib wrote:

I used M1 ATF actually, because it's what I had on hand.  I doubt it
matters much for this use.  It didn't really mix but sort of went into
suspension like oil/vinegar salad dressing.  Eventually the ATF would
settle out again, but as the acteone evaporates pretty quickly anyway I
don't try to store it; I just make a small batch whenever I need it.

So I would just stir it up and use an eyedropper to saturate the
fitting.  I'm guessing that how it works is that the capillary action
drawing the acetone into the threads pulls some ATF along for the ride.

Allan


OK Don okd...@gmail.com writes:


I tried mixing up the recipe using Mobil 1 ATF - it would not mix at all
with the acetone. Does any other ATF mix with acetone?


On Sat, Apr 13, 2013 at 9:46 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:


I used the acetone and ATF recipe for this, and it worked well when I
replaced the lines on my W123.

Allan
--




--
OK Don
2013 F150
2012 Passat TDI DSG
1957 C182A
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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re: Another oil thread

2013-04-14 Thread Craig
On Sun, 14 Apr 2013 14:22:34 -0400 LarryT l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:

 Testing - sent a couple of posts and they never appeared  if this 
 gets through please post on the list that my email got through...

The traditional response: you failed.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re: Another oil thread

2013-04-14 Thread Max Dillon
I see your test email...
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

LarryT l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:

Testing - sent a couple of posts and they never appeared  if this 
gets through please post on the list that my email got through...

Thanks!
LarryT
91 300D

On 4/14/2013 1:15 PM, Allan Streib wrote:
 I used M1 ATF actually, because it's what I had on hand.  I doubt it
 matters much for this use.  It didn't really mix but sort of went
into
 suspension like oil/vinegar salad dressing.  Eventually the ATF would
 settle out again, but as the acteone evaporates pretty quickly anyway
I
 don't try to store it; I just make a small batch whenever I need it.

 So I would just stir it up and use an eyedropper to saturate the
 fitting.  I'm guessing that how it works is that the capillary action
 drawing the acetone into the threads pulls some ATF along for the
ride.

 Allan


 OK Don okd...@gmail.com writes:

 I tried mixing up the recipe using Mobil 1 ATF - it would not mix at
all
 with the acetone. Does any other ATF mix with acetone?


 On Sat, Apr 13, 2013 at 9:46 PM, Allan Streib
str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

 I used the acetone and ATF recipe for this, and it worked well when
I
 replaced the lines on my W123.

 Allan
 --



 -- 
 OK Don
 2013 F150
 2012 Passat TDI DSG
 1957 C182A
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re: Another oil thread

2013-04-13 Thread Tim Crone
As usual, you all are right on the money.  Lower oil cooler hose has a leak
in one of the seams.  Even after sitting and not running the engine, when I
wiped down the hoses there is obvious oil weeping along that seam.
Now to source new and be on my way.  Looks easy to do, one nut on the
filter and one on the oil radiator... But since I couldn't get either to
budge I will try to add some anti sieze as someone suggested.

I assume wisdom says do both at the same time?

Thanks all!
Tim
On Apr 12, 2013 9:22 PM, Tim Crone bb...@crone.us wrote:

 Wrong account again, sorry.  77 300D.  I need to register the other
 account so I don't get dropped when sending from my phone, it looks like it
 sent in my threads but I guess it is sitting in Kaleb's queue. :(

 Thanks,
 Tim
 -- Forwarded message --
 From: Tim Crone t...@crone.us
 Date: Apr 12, 2013 1:11 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Another oil thread
 To: Mercedes List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Cc:

 Right, 77 300D.  Good call, and that would be in the right spot to have
 made that mess.  I hope you are right!
 Thanks,
 Tim
 On Apr 12, 2013 12:18 PM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 Which car?

 Assuming a diesel made before 1996, a common failure are the hoses
 to/from the oil cooler, check those first.
 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

 Tim Crone bb...@crone.us wrote:

 I came off the interstate (a few miles but it was hot) and noticed that
 I
 was idling at 15.  That's a bit low but not crazy low.  Oil is ~500
 miles.
 
 I started driving again - no driving issue, but pressure gauge was
 jumping
 from 15-30.  I pulled into a gas station, opened hood - the entire
 driver
 side of the engine was covered in oil.  Massive loss.
 
 I saw nothing terribly obvious, but I was wearing work clothes and
 there
 was no way to do any good diagnosis.  Got it towed home (thanks AAA!)
 and
 how it's been in the driveway since Tuesday.  It is still dripping oil,
 but
 I can't tell if it's from the mess in the compartment settling or from
 the
 breech.
 
 I'm going to have to get into it this weekend.  Any suggestions where
 to
 start, if I don't see anything obvious?  Should I just dump in oil and
 see
 if it leaks out the head, or is there a better way?
 
 Thanks,
 Tim
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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re: Another oil thread

2013-04-13 Thread Max Dillon
Yes, change both hoses.  Unfortunately, too often the oil cooler threads are 
damaged when the hoses are removed, so be as careful as you can, but don't be 
surprised if you need to replace the oil cooler.


Research the repair, there are tips and tricks to maximize the odds of success.

Very glad to hear the engine survived!

-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Tim Crone bb...@crone.us wrote:

As usual, you all are right on the money.  Lower oil cooler hose has a
leak
in one of the seams.  Even after sitting and not running the engine,
when I
wiped down the hoses there is obvious oil weeping along that seam.
Now to source new and be on my way.  Looks easy to do, one nut on the
filter and one on the oil radiator... But since I couldn't get either
to
budge I will try to add some anti sieze as someone suggested.

I assume wisdom says do both at the same time?

Thanks all!
Tim
On Apr 12, 2013 9:22 PM, Tim Crone bb...@crone.us wrote:

 Wrong account again, sorry.  77 300D.  I need to register the other
 account so I don't get dropped when sending from my phone, it looks
like it
 sent in my threads but I guess it is sitting in Kaleb's queue. :(

 Thanks,
 Tim
 -- Forwarded message --
 From: Tim Crone t...@crone.us
 Date: Apr 12, 2013 1:11 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Another oil thread
 To: Mercedes List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Cc:

 Right, 77 300D.  Good call, and that would be in the right spot to
have
 made that mess.  I hope you are right!
 Thanks,
 Tim
 On Apr 12, 2013 12:18 PM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net
wrote:

 Which car?

 Assuming a diesel made before 1996, a common failure are the hoses
 to/from the oil cooler, check those first.
 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

 Tim Crone bb...@crone.us wrote:

 I came off the interstate (a few miles but it was hot) and noticed
that
 I
 was idling at 15.  That's a bit low but not crazy low.  Oil is ~500
 miles.
 
 I started driving again - no driving issue, but pressure gauge was
 jumping
 from 15-30.  I pulled into a gas station, opened hood - the entire
 driver
 side of the engine was covered in oil.  Massive loss.
 
 I saw nothing terribly obvious, but I was wearing work clothes and
 there
 was no way to do any good diagnosis.  Got it towed home (thanks
AAA!)
 and
 how it's been in the driveway since Tuesday.  It is still dripping
oil,
 but
 I can't tell if it's from the mess in the compartment settling or
from
 the
 breech.
 
 I'm going to have to get into it this weekend.  Any suggestions
where
 to
 start, if I don't see anything obvious?  Should I just dump in oil
and
 see
 if it leaks out the head, or is there a better way?
 
 Thanks,
 Tim
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re: Another oil thread

2013-04-13 Thread rickknoble


Now to source new and be on my way.  Looks easy to do, one nut on the
filter and one on the oil radiator... But since I couldn't get either to
budge I will try to add some anti sieze as someone suggested.

I assume wisdom says do both at the same time?

Yes,  do both. I didn't have much problem doing mine, because I did the motor 
mounts at the same time. The higher you get the engine for clearance,  the 
better. Soak the fittings with Kroil/PB Blaster several times a day, for 
several days and they should be easier to remove.



Rick Knoble

Sent from My Samsung tabletTim Crone bb...@crone.us wrote:
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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re: Another oil thread

2013-04-13 Thread Dan Penoff
1.) Do both.  You're there, the other one is just as old and will fail as well, 
etc.

2.) Consider doing the motor mounts while you're in there, as the driver's side 
will had ego come off or at least be disconnected to get the hoses out.

3.) If time permits, apply a generous amount of penetrating fluid to the 
fittings at the oil cooler.  There are dissimilar metals and tend to gall when 
removed, sometimes badly enough that the oil cooler requires replacement.

Plan on the better part of a day and getting really, really dirty.  This is not 
a complex task, but it does require a lot of brute force sort of effort.

Dan

On Apr 13, 2013, at 6:35 PM, Tim Crone wrote:

 As usual, you all are right on the money.  Lower oil cooler hose has a leak
 in one of the seams.  Even after sitting and not running the engine, when I
 wiped down the hoses there is obvious oil weeping along that seam.
 Now to source new and be on my way.  Looks easy to do, one nut on the
 filter and one on the oil radiator... But since I couldn't get either to
 budge I will try to add some anti sieze as someone suggested.
 
 I assume wisdom says do both at the same time?
 
 Thanks all!
 Tim
 On Apr 12, 2013 9:22 PM, Tim Crone bb...@crone.us wrote:
 
 Wrong account again, sorry.  77 300D.  I need to register the other
 account so I don't get dropped when sending from my phone, it looks like it
 sent in my threads but I guess it is sitting in Kaleb's queue. :(
 
 Thanks,
 Tim
 -- Forwarded message --
 From: Tim Crone t...@crone.us
 Date: Apr 12, 2013 1:11 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Another oil thread
 To: Mercedes List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Cc:
 
 Right, 77 300D.  Good call, and that would be in the right spot to have
 made that mess.  I hope you are right!
 Thanks,
 Tim
 On Apr 12, 2013 12:18 PM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:
 
 Which car?
 
 Assuming a diesel made before 1996, a common failure are the hoses
 to/from the oil cooler, check those first.
 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20
 
 Tim Crone bb...@crone.us wrote:
 
 I came off the interstate (a few miles but it was hot) and noticed that
 I
 was idling at 15.  That's a bit low but not crazy low.  Oil is ~500
 miles.
 
 I started driving again - no driving issue, but pressure gauge was
 jumping
 from 15-30.  I pulled into a gas station, opened hood - the entire
 driver
 side of the engine was covered in oil.  Massive loss.
 
 I saw nothing terribly obvious, but I was wearing work clothes and
 there
 was no way to do any good diagnosis.  Got it towed home (thanks AAA!)
 and
 how it's been in the driveway since Tuesday.  It is still dripping oil,
 but
 I can't tell if it's from the mess in the compartment settling or from
 the
 breech.
 
 I'm going to have to get into it this weekend.  Any suggestions where
 to
 start, if I don't see anything obvious?  Should I just dump in oil and
 see
 if it leaks out the head, or is there a better way?
 
 Thanks,
 Tim
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
 ___
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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
 ___
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 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re: Another oil thread

2013-04-13 Thread Mitch Haley

Tim Crone wrote:

Now to source new and be on my way.  Looks easy to do, one nut on the
filter and one on the oil radiator... But since I couldn't get either to
budge I will try to add some anti sieze as someone suggested.


I assume you know to put a wrench on the hose nut and another wrench on the 
fitting at the cooler, and squeeze the wrenches together to avoid putting torque 
on the fixed fitting and twisting it out of the cooler housing?


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re: Another oil thread

2013-04-13 Thread Allan Streib
Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com writes:

 3.) If time permits, apply a generous amount of penetrating fluid to
 the fittings at the oil cooler.  There are dissimilar metals and tend
 to gall when removed, sometimes badly enough that the oil cooler
 requires replacement.

I used the acetone and ATF recipe for this, and it worked well when I
replaced the lines on my W123.

Also be sure you use a wrench on both sides of the fitting, so you don't
twist the fitting out of the cooler.

Allan
-- 


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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Re: Another oil thread

2013-04-13 Thread OK Don
I tried mixing up the recipe using Mobil 1 ATF - it would not mix at all
with the acetone. Does any other ATF mix with acetone?


On Sat, Apr 13, 2013 at 9:46 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

 I used the acetone and ATF recipe for this, and it worked well when I
 replaced the lines on my W123.

 Allan
 --




-- 
OK Don
2013 F150
2012 Passat TDI DSG
1957 C182A
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[MBZ] Fwd: Re: Another oil thread

2013-04-12 Thread Tim Crone
Wrong account again, sorry.  77 300D.  I need to register the other account
so I don't get dropped when sending from my phone, it looks like it sent in
my threads but I guess it is sitting in Kaleb's queue. :(

Thanks,
Tim
-- Forwarded message --
From: Tim Crone t...@crone.us
Date: Apr 12, 2013 1:11 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Another oil thread
To: Mercedes List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc:

Right, 77 300D.  Good call, and that would be in the right spot to have
made that mess.  I hope you are right!
Thanks,
Tim
On Apr 12, 2013 12:18 PM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 Which car?

 Assuming a diesel made before 1996, a common failure are the hoses to/from
 the oil cooler, check those first.
 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

 Tim Crone bb...@crone.us wrote:

 I came off the interstate (a few miles but it was hot) and noticed that
 I
 was idling at 15.  That's a bit low but not crazy low.  Oil is ~500
 miles.
 
 I started driving again - no driving issue, but pressure gauge was
 jumping
 from 15-30.  I pulled into a gas station, opened hood - the entire
 driver
 side of the engine was covered in oil.  Massive loss.
 
 I saw nothing terribly obvious, but I was wearing work clothes and
 there
 was no way to do any good diagnosis.  Got it towed home (thanks AAA!)
 and
 how it's been in the driveway since Tuesday.  It is still dripping oil,
 but
 I can't tell if it's from the mess in the compartment settling or from
 the
 breech.
 
 I'm going to have to get into it this weekend.  Any suggestions where
 to
 start, if I don't see anything obvious?  Should I just dump in oil and
 see
 if it leaks out the head, or is there a better way?
 
 Thanks,
 Tim
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

___
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For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com