Re: [MBZ] Ignition key problems (best way to start engine without ?)

2005-12-15 Thread eric peterson
what I did in a similar situation was put key in
switch and then hammer in a screwdriver next to the
key which gave me alot more leverage.  then I put vice
grips around the top of the screwdriver handle and
viola it turned.  I promptly drove it to my mechanic
and had him replace the tumbler before turning the key
to the off position.  I can't remember if I shut the
engine down with the kill switch or how I got it to
turn off without the key its been a year or two ago
now.  Good luck.

Eric
85 300CD

 
 If any listers can shed light on this question, I
 would appreciate. 
 Otherwise I am inclined to advise against the
 starting and go to 
 option no. 2 and drill out the lock assembly. Or is
 there even 
 another avenue to contemplate?
 
 Richard Becker
 London
 
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Re: [MBZ] Ignition key problems (best way to start engine without ?)

2005-12-15 Thread David Brodbeck

eric peterson wrote:

what I did in a similar situation was put key in
switch and then hammer in a screwdriver next to the
key which gave me alot more leverage.  then I put vice
grips around the top of the screwdriver handle and
viola it turned.  I promptly drove it to my mechanic
and had him replace the tumbler before turning the key
to the off position.


Just FYI -- I believe once you've gotten the key to turn, you can remove 
the tumbler and drive the car without it by turning the ignition switch 
with a screwdriver.  Might be handy if you can't take it to the mechanic 
right away.




Re: [MBZ] Ignition key problems (best way to start engine without ?)

2005-12-15 Thread B Dike
Richard,
   
  I went through the same episode a while back.  Definitely go with option A.  
In my situation it was a case of a worn tumbler and sticky steering lock.  It 
may take some teasing, but if the new key worked once it will eventually work 
one more time. If the tumbler is worn and fussy, a sticky steering lock will 
exacerbate the problem and make it almost impossible.  Go under the dash and 
spray some solvent into the steering lock mechanism from every possible seam 
and  joint.  It may take a couple light smacks with a brass hammer on the 
housing to shake things loose.  Jiggle the steering wheel.  Mine needed a hard 
slam on the wheel to allow the spring loaded steering lock to break loose and 
reduce the resistance against the tumbler.
   
  Good Luck,
   
  Bruce

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Friend of mine has encountered a problem with his 500 SE W126 1988 
and asked for advice. Here's what happened and what I advised so far 
(and what the MB dealer gave as a quote). Any further ideas and 
suggestions would be helpful, as always ;-)

The ignition lock got sticky and it was not possible to start the 
engine or disengage the steering lock and get it into position 1 
(which is of course the necessary step to remove the tumbler in the 
normal way).

As the car was parked at a drop-off lane at a railway station, he had 
to call the breakdown service of the AA (the equivalent of the AAA in 
the UK). They tried to unseize the lock tumbler with WD40 and 
rattling, knocking etc. All the usual tricks. As the tumbler would 
have to be replaced anyway, they had a go whatever. No luck. The even 
broke off the last remaining key and part of it was stuck. They could 
later take the piece out of the lock with on the of the usual tricks 
(small drop of superglue on the key remainder, VERY carefully!)

Car had to be towed away to the next dealership.

On my advice, he ordered straight away a new key and a new ignition 
tumbler which takes a couple of days to arrive from Germany.

Dealer quoted later GBP 700 + VAT (17.5%), around US-$1,500 in total, 
for removal of the sterring lock plus tumbler and to replace the 
whole assembly.

When the new key arrived, my friend tried it and he got it into 
position one! Only to then take it out again on the assumption that 
he could repeat that trick. What a stupid mistake! It turns out that 
since then no-one could turn it to 1 again!

I told him, that there are now only two options:

a) he gets the key somehow again to position 1 so that the lock pin 
can be released with a wire put into the small hole as per the normal 
procedure to rr the tumbler. A matter of maybe 10 minutes.

or 

b) to do the labour intensive and violent workaround by drilling out 
the small locking pin that secures the steering lock assembly to the 
column (relatively easy on a 126 with a Dremel and a diamond bit), 
drop the column a bit, then wriggle the complete lock assembly out 
from under the dash, cut out the ignition switch with a Dremel 
cutting disc off. Needs a new tumbler, a second hand steering lock 
and maybe a new switch depending how careful the cutting was done. 3-
5 hours work for an experienced DIY person on a 126.

I understand why he wants to go by a) if at all possible ...

Now the car is positioned at an outside car park and cannot be 
renoved easily due to the steering locked. Temperatures are around 
freezing temperatures during the night and a bit higher during the 
day. He wants to heat the car's interior up and dry out the interior 
with the heating and a/c, but he wants to somehow start the engine 
for that (no electricity around, and no generator can be started 
there).

He asked me if there is a safe way to start the engine bypassing the 
ignition lock. 

I suppose there is, but my experience on the newer models (yes, I 
consider the 126 to be that) is limited. What are the implications 
for fuel injection, ignition modules, airbag, etc. ?

Is there a way to start the engine without messing up the ignition 
circuit or anything else? 

If any listers can shed light on this question, I would appreciate. 
Otherwise I am inclined to advise against the starting and go to 
option no. 2 and drill out the lock assembly. Or is there even 
another avenue to contemplate?

Richard Becker
London

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Bruce
82 300CD 334kmi 'His'
85 300CD 236kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 194kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen'

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Re: [MBZ] Ignition key problems (best way to start engine without ?)

2005-12-14 Thread Hans Neureiter
On a 1988 model there should be no problem to jumper the ignition and
starter solenoid directly from the battery. Airbags should be of no concern
here. A (mostly,noisy) problem could be the security system if it's
there.I tried
to look at the 126 CD, but there is no 500SE listed.

On 12/13/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Friend of mine has encountered a problem with his 500 SE W126 1988
 and asked for advice. Here's what happened and what I advised so far
 (and what the MB dealer gave as a quote). Any further ideas and
 suggestions would be helpful, as always ;-)

 The ignition lock got sticky and it was not possible to start the
 engine or disengage the steering lock and get it into position 1
 (which is of course the necessary step to remove the tumbler in the
 normal way).

 As the car was parked at a drop-off lane at a railway station, he had
 to call the breakdown service of the AA (the equivalent of the AAA in
 the UK). They tried to unseize the lock tumbler with WD40 and
 rattling, knocking etc. All the usual tricks. As the tumbler would
 have to be replaced anyway, they had a go whatever. No luck. The even
 broke off the last remaining key and part of it was stuck. They could
 later take the piece out of the lock with on the of the usual tricks
 (small drop of superglue on the key remainder, VERY carefully!)

 Car had to be towed away to the next dealership.

 On my advice, he ordered straight away a new key and a new ignition
 tumbler which takes a couple of days to arrive from Germany.

 Dealer quoted later GBP 700 + VAT (17.5%), around US-$1,500 in total,
 for removal of the sterring lock plus tumbler and to replace the
 whole assembly.

 When the new key arrived, my friend tried it and he got it into
 position one! Only to then take it out again on the assumption that
 he could repeat that trick. What a stupid mistake! It turns out that
 since then no-one could turn it to 1 again!

 I told him, that there are now only two options:

 a) he gets the key somehow again to position 1 so that the lock pin
 can be released with a wire put into the small hole as per the normal
 procedure to rr the tumbler. A matter of maybe 10 minutes.

 or

 b) to do the labour intensive and violent workaround by drilling out
 the small locking pin that secures the steering lock assembly to the
 column (relatively easy on a 126 with a Dremel and a diamond bit),
 drop the column a bit, then wriggle the complete lock assembly out
 from under the dash, cut out the ignition switch with a Dremel
 cutting  disc off. Needs a new tumbler, a second hand steering lock
 and maybe a new switch depending how careful the cutting was done. 3-
 5 hours work for an experienced DIY person on a 126.

 I understand why he wants to go by a) if at all possible ...

 Now the car is positioned at an outside car park and cannot be
 renoved easily due to the steering locked. Temperatures are around
 freezing temperatures during the night and a bit higher during the
 day. He wants to heat the car's interior up and dry out the interior
 with the heating and a/c, but he wants to somehow start the engine
 for that (no electricity around, and no generator can be started
 there).

 He asked me if there is a safe way to start the engine bypassing the
 ignition lock.

 I suppose there is, but my experience on the newer models (yes, I
 consider the 126 to be that) is limited. What are the implications
 for fuel injection, ignition modules, airbag, etc. ?

 Is there a way to start the engine without messing up the ignition
 circuit or anything else?

 If any listers can shed light on this question, I would appreciate.
 Otherwise I am inclined to advise against the starting and go to
 option no. 2 and drill out the lock assembly. Or is there even
 another avenue to contemplate?

 Richard Becker
 London

 ___
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'82 300SD, '95 E300D


Re: [MBZ] Ignition key problems (best way to start engine without ?)

2005-12-14 Thread Curt Raymond
Read again the part that talks about 15 minutes of jiggling...
  In fact when I first started jiggling the steering column wasn't even 
locked...
  Locking it didn't help a bit in case you're wondering...
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Tue, 13 Dec 2005 10:38:47 -0500
From: Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Ignition key problems (best way to start engine without ?)
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Curt Raymond wrote:
 
 Oh man I went through this Sunday with the 190D.
   My Indy called today yeah its been fine for me 

I assume you turned the wheel to take the pressure off the steering 
lock, but to
no immediate effect?



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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Analysis
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Yes, he does soot -- I posted the results of the last two analysises
(sp?) done on the SDL - 0.6% at 10K miles - Mobil 1, oil changed,
second time 10.6K miles, 0.5%, still running the oil. Larry's service
is very good. I do find that a single wrap of Scotch or electrical
tape around the plastic tube makes a better seal with the bellows
bottle when sucking the iol up.

On 12/13/05, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 They do have a website: youroil.net
   I don't know if they do soot since I haven't been testing a diesel engi=
ne.

   -Curt

--
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Norman, OK
'90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
The FSM created the Diesel Benz
http://www.venganza.org/



Re: [MBZ] Ignition key problems (best way to start engine without ?)

2005-12-14 Thread Curt Raymond
I suppose it would depend on what made it stick but... DANGER WILL ROBINSON!
  When the lock my my 240D started getting sticky last year I did the same 
thing but with carb cleaner. Seemed like it was all better for months until one 
day I couldn't go to work...
  Its your call but after getting stuck once (at least I wasn't stuck AT work) 
I don't want to go through it again.
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Tue, 13 Dec 2005 15:14:32 -0800
From: jgiels [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Ignition key problems (best way to start engine without ?)
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
 reply-type=original

Ok .. I have seen this quite alot as a email. I know this isn't the 
same as 
replacing the cylinder. I used a can of electrical contact cleaner. 
With the 
little tube that is on the WD40 can.. and just sprayed the hell out of 
it.. 
I let it try for quite some time (as I did this at work at lunch) has 
worked 
fine ever since..



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so how long do you figure you can go between changes now?

OK Don wrote:

 Yes, he does soot -- I posted the results of the last two analysises
 (sp?) done on the SDL - 0.6% at 10K miles - Mobil 1, oil changed,
 second time 10.6K miles, 0.5%, still running the oil. Larry's service
 is very good. I do find that a single wrap of Scotch or electrical
 tape around the plastic tube makes a better seal with the bellows
 bottle when sucking the iol up.
 
 On 12/13/05, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
They do have a website: youroil.net
  I don't know if they do soot since I haven't been testing a diesel engine.

  -Curt
 
 
 --
 OK Don, KD5NRO
 Norman, OK
 '90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
 The FSM created the Diesel Benz
 http://www.venganza.org/
 
 ___
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-- 
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  84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
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Re: [MBZ] Ignition key problems (best way to start engine without ?)

2005-12-14 Thread Jim Cathey

Read again the part that talks about 15 minutes of jiggling...


Only 15 minutes?  Oh, you'll have to do better than that!

I put in a bunch of time on the 250C when it did it to me,
and then one mysterious day it just operated again.  In fact,
I was so 'programmed' on the wiggle try that the first time
it went to 1 I overshot and turned it back off again before
I could react to success.  But I slowed down a bit and got
it to go again on another session.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Ignition key problems (best way to start engine without ?)

2005-12-13 Thread David Brodbeck

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
He asked me if there is a safe way to start the engine bypassing the 
ignition lock. 
  


On a diesel, probably.  If it's a gasoline engine car, it would be much 
trickier.  I doubt that's likely to help, though.  At most it won't do 
much more than you could do by warming the key with a pocket lighter and 
then sticking it in the lock.


Has he tried getting a new VIN-cut key from the dealer, and attempting 
to turn the lock with it?  My lock turned *much* easier with a new key.  
It may give him the extra edge he needs to get the tumbler turned to 
position 1.  All the usual tricks, sliding the key in and out a little, 
jiggling it, etc. apply.  Otherwise, it's time to start drilling.




Re: [MBZ] Ignition key problems (best way to start engine without ?)

2005-12-13 Thread Jim Cathey

I understand why he wants to go by a) if at all possible ...


And it's worth an hour of jiggling to get it to work, too!


He asked me if there is a safe way to start the engine bypassing the
ignition lock.


Probably.  You can probably do any necessary jumpering from
the fuse box, and actuate the starter via the block under the
hood.  I can't envision that there would be any real problem
doing this.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Ignition key problems (best way to start engine without ?)

2005-12-13 Thread John Peterson

ditto on the VIN key- that solved a tough lock on my '91.

John Peterson
- Original Message - 
From: David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2005 4:07 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Ignition key problems (best way to start engine without 
?)




[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

He asked me if there is a safe way to start the engine bypassing the
ignition lock.



On a diesel, probably.  If it's a gasoline engine car, it would be much
trickier.  I doubt that's likely to help, though.  At most it won't do
much more than you could do by warming the key with a pocket lighter and
then sticking it in the lock.

Has he tried getting a new VIN-cut key from the dealer, and attempting
to turn the lock with it?  My lock turned *much* easier with a new key.
It may give him the extra edge he needs to get the tumbler turned to
position 1.  All the usual tricks, sliding the key in and out a little,
jiggling it, etc. apply.  Otherwise, it's time to start drilling.

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Re: [MBZ] Ignition key problems (best way to start engine without ?)

2005-12-13 Thread Curt Raymond
Oh man I went through this Sunday with the 190D. We'd gone to the carwash to 
vacuum the car and when we were leaving the key wouldn't turn. 15 minutes of 
jiggling (the wife had given up after about 40 seconds. Jiggle jiggle, its 
broken, I'll call AAA) later and I got it turned. We went home, got the 240D 
and went straight to the Indy. I went through this on the 240D last year.
  My Indy called today yeah its been fine for me yeah well replace it anyway. 
I sure don't want to be stranded.
   
  Also, maybe this is different on a gasser vs a diesel but it seems to me 
getting the car started is not the problem, steering seems like it'd be an 
issue.
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Tue, 13 Dec 2005 13:06:26 -0800
From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Ignition key problems (best way to start engine
 without ?)
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

 I understand why he wants to go by a) if at all possible ...

And it's worth an hour of jiggling to get it to work, too!

 He asked me if there is a safe way to start the engine bypassing the
 ignition lock.

Probably.  You can probably do any necessary jumpering from
the fuse box, and actuate the starter via the block under the
hood.  I can't envision that there would be any real problem
doing this.

-- Jim



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Curt Raymond wrote:
 
 Oh man I went through this Sunday with the 190D.
   My Indy called today yeah its been fine for me 

I assume you turned the wheel to take the pressure off the steering lock, but to
no immediate effect?