Re: [MBZ] Polishing the CL, etc.
Attaboy!! Sent from my iPhone > On Jul 16, 2022, at 6:51 PM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes > wrote: > > I spent the afternoon fooling around with the car. Someone had not put the > center radio stack back in right when I think an AC controller was replaced. > Actually not a hard job but I had to do it twice because I forgot to put the > cup holder holder back in before putting the wood in. I found a bare wires > pair, capped them off, no idea what it went to. I’ll have to investigate > more. Some of the plastic screw places are busted but it seemed to be holding > together mostly. Old cars, cheap plastic… > > Cleaned the leather and trim, it’s mostly in really good shape so not a lot > of effort there. Driver seat has one tear all the other seats look really > good. > > Got the windows all working. When you open a door the glass on that side > drops down then goes back up when you close the door. Driver side was not > going back up. Did a reset on them all and that cured it. > > There are some other electrical annoyances but just annoyances. The IC is > still telling me the ABC is unhappy but it seems to be working fine so that > is a later effort too. It is holding positions, has not slammed and seems to > do what it’s supposed to do. > > Trunk release button was working the other day now it’s not. Unclear why. > With the boot lid up the red light on the switch comes on so it must be > getting power. Maybe the release solenoid isn’t working now but the wires > were connected. PITA to use the blade key and the fob doesn’t lock/unlock. I > think I had that working before when I looked at it first time and I did put > new batteries in it, maybe I should do that again. The light on the fob > blinks so must be something in the car if it’s actually powered enough. > > Then I got out a double action polisher I got a couple months ago. Got pads > and 3-stage polishing kit for it. Started on the bonnet. Now the car has hail > dimples so it’s not going to look new but I figured I‘d see how it works to > get the paint buffed up. Did all 3 compounds on 3 different pads which I > think I got right. Anyway, a final hand buff with wax and the paint looks > pretty good. The black has a lot deeper look to it. I went to U Tube U so > never done it before but it looks pretty good for a 20yo car. I’ll have to do > the rest of the car soon. > > I’m liking this car! 104kmi on a 20yo car, not too shabby even with the hail > damage. I’ll see if I can get to the DMV this week and get the title > transferred and a plate and put it in the rotation. Do an oil change with the > $2 sucker, probably do the trans fluid soon too. 722.6 so that’s fairly easy. > > Fun times! It’s a very cool car. > > --FT > Sent from iFōn > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Polishing the CL, etc.
This is true - both explanations are correct. In the case of the convertible, it’s not just the air displacement, it’s the proper sealing of the window t the convertible or hard top. -D > On Jul 16, 2022, at 6:05 PM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes > wrote: > > My SL600 and 560SEC do the same thing. I think that’s because the SL also has > a convertible top, and the SEC has no window frame and it’s hard to seal well > on the outside. As with your CLK cab. This thing being a pillarless coupé > like the SEC needs the waterproofing as well. > > The salesdude was sorta right, without a window frame the glass needs to be > under the roof so it doesn’t leak and if they’re all up it will hit the roof. > Mine was doing that (and the SL will too if the battery is dead) so you have > to push it in at the top to close it and get it under the lip. > > It looks really slick with all the windows down. I love the style > > --FT > Sent from iFōn > >> On Jul 16, 2022, at 8:21 PM, Bob Rentfro via Mercedes >> wrote: >> >> When I bought my CLK350 Cabriolet from Phoenix Motor Company, Mrs. Bob >> noticed the windows doing their thing when we opened and closed the doors. >> She wondered aloud and I proceeded to explain it , ala Dan, and the young >> salesdude listened intently. >> Later, he got me aside and thanked me for that explanation of why the >> windows do what they do. He told me that one of the other salesclowns told >> him the reason the windows did that was so they wouldn’t impinge on the >> convertible top as the doors were operated and that was the story he was to >> tell customers. >> >> AZBob >> >> Sent from my iPad >> >>> On Jul 16, 2022, at 4:50 PM, dan penoff.com via Mercedes >>> wrote: >>> >>> FYI, on coupes and convertibles you get a window “drop” when the door is >>> open. Wacky Teutonic engineering designed that because of the surface area >>> of the window is so large when you close the door it would take a great >>> deal of force to close it (compress the air it’s moving.) >>> >>> That way you can close the door with minimal effort. When it closes, the >>> window is moved up to the closed position, sealing the cabin. >>> >>> Getting a “new to you” car and sorting everything out is one of the best >>> parts of getting a new car. >>> >>> -D >>> > On Jul 16, 2022, at 3:51 PM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes > wrote: I spent the afternoon fooling around with the car. Someone had not put the center radio stack back in right when I think an AC controller was replaced. Actually not a hard job but I had to do it twice because I forgot to put the cup holder holder back in before putting the wood in. I found a bare wires pair, capped them off, no idea what it went to. I’ll have to investigate more. Some of the plastic screw places are busted but it seemed to be holding together mostly. Old cars, cheap plastic… Cleaned the leather and trim, it’s mostly in really good shape so not a lot of effort there. Driver seat has one tear all the other seats look really good. Got the windows all working. When you open a door the glass on that side drops down then goes back up when you close the door. Driver side was not going back up. Did a reset on them all and that cured it. There are some other electrical annoyances but just annoyances. The IC is still telling me the ABC is unhappy but it seems to be working fine so that is a later effort too. It is holding positions, has not slammed and seems to do what it’s supposed to do. Trunk release button was working the other day now it’s not. Unclear why. With the boot lid up the red light on the switch comes on so it must be getting power. Maybe the release solenoid isn’t working now but the wires were connected. PITA to use the blade key and the fob doesn’t lock/unlock. I think I had that working before when I looked at it first time and I did put new batteries in it, maybe I should do that again. The light on the fob blinks so must be something in the car if it’s actually powered enough. Then I got out a double action polisher I got a couple months ago. Got pads and 3-stage polishing kit for it. Started on the bonnet. Now the car has hail dimples so it’s not going to look new but I figured I‘d see how it works to get the paint buffed up. Did all 3 compounds on 3 different pads which I think I got right. Anyway, a final hand buff with wax and the paint looks pretty good. The black has a lot deeper look to it. I went to U Tube U so never done it before but it looks pretty good for a 20yo car. I’ll have to do the rest of the car soon. I’m liking this car! 104kmi on a 20yo car, not too shabby even with the hail damage. I’ll see if I can get to the DMV this week and get the titl
Re: [MBZ] Polishing the CL, etc.
My SL600 and 560SEC do the same thing. I think that’s because the SL also has a convertible top, and the SEC has no window frame and it’s hard to seal well on the outside. As with your CLK cab. This thing being a pillarless coupé like the SEC needs the waterproofing as well. The salesdude was sorta right, without a window frame the glass needs to be under the roof so it doesn’t leak and if they’re all up it will hit the roof. Mine was doing that (and the SL will too if the battery is dead) so you have to push it in at the top to close it and get it under the lip. It looks really slick with all the windows down. I love the style --FT Sent from iFōn > On Jul 16, 2022, at 8:21 PM, Bob Rentfro via Mercedes > wrote: > > When I bought my CLK350 Cabriolet from Phoenix Motor Company, Mrs. Bob > noticed the windows doing their thing when we opened and closed the doors. > She wondered aloud and I proceeded to explain it , ala Dan, and the young > salesdude listened intently. > Later, he got me aside and thanked me for that explanation of why the windows > do what they do. He told me that one of the other salesclowns told him the > reason the windows did that was so they wouldn’t impinge on the convertible > top as the doors were operated and that was the story he was to tell > customers. > > AZBob > > Sent from my iPad > >> On Jul 16, 2022, at 4:50 PM, dan penoff.com via Mercedes >> wrote: >> >> FYI, on coupes and convertibles you get a window “drop” when the door is >> open. Wacky Teutonic engineering designed that because of the surface area >> of the window is so large when you close the door it would take a great deal >> of force to close it (compress the air it’s moving.) >> >> That way you can close the door with minimal effort. When it closes, the >> window is moved up to the closed position, sealing the cabin. >> >> Getting a “new to you” car and sorting everything out is one of the best >> parts of getting a new car. >> >> -D >> On Jul 16, 2022, at 3:51 PM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes wrote: >>> >>> I spent the afternoon fooling around with the car. Someone had not put the >>> center radio stack back in right when I think an AC controller was >>> replaced. Actually not a hard job but I had to do it twice because I forgot >>> to put the cup holder holder back in before putting the wood in. I found a >>> bare wires pair, capped them off, no idea what it went to. I’ll have to >>> investigate more. Some of the plastic screw places are busted but it seemed >>> to be holding together mostly. Old cars, cheap plastic… >>> >>> Cleaned the leather and trim, it’s mostly in really good shape so not a lot >>> of effort there. Driver seat has one tear all the other seats look really >>> good. >>> >>> Got the windows all working. When you open a door the glass on that side >>> drops down then goes back up when you close the door. Driver side was not >>> going back up. Did a reset on them all and that cured it. >>> >>> There are some other electrical annoyances but just annoyances. The IC is >>> still telling me the ABC is unhappy but it seems to be working fine so that >>> is a later effort too. It is holding positions, has not slammed and seems >>> to do what it’s supposed to do. >>> >>> Trunk release button was working the other day now it’s not. Unclear why. >>> With the boot lid up the red light on the switch comes on so it must be >>> getting power. Maybe the release solenoid isn’t working now but the wires >>> were connected. PITA to use the blade key and the fob doesn’t lock/unlock. >>> I think I had that working before when I looked at it first time and I did >>> put new batteries in it, maybe I should do that again. The light on the fob >>> blinks so must be something in the car if it’s actually powered enough. >>> >>> Then I got out a double action polisher I got a couple months ago. Got pads >>> and 3-stage polishing kit for it. Started on the bonnet. Now the car has >>> hail dimples so it’s not going to look new but I figured I‘d see how it >>> works to get the paint buffed up. Did all 3 compounds on 3 different pads >>> which I think I got right. Anyway, a final hand buff with wax and the paint >>> looks pretty good. The black has a lot deeper look to it. I went to U Tube >>> U so never done it before but it looks pretty good for a 20yo car. I’ll >>> have to do the rest of the car soon. >>> >>> I’m liking this car! 104kmi on a 20yo car, not too shabby even with the >>> hail damage. I’ll see if I can get to the DMV this week and get the title >>> transferred and a plate and put it in the rotation. Do an oil change with >>> the $2 sucker, probably do the trans fluid soon too. 722.6 so that’s fairly >>> easy. >>> >>> Fun times! It’s a very cool car. >>> >>> --FT >>> Sent from iFōn >>> ___ >>> http://www.okiebenz.com >>> >>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.co
Re: [MBZ] Polishing the CL, etc.
When I bought my CLK350 Cabriolet from Phoenix Motor Company, Mrs. Bob noticed the windows doing their thing when we opened and closed the doors. She wondered aloud and I proceeded to explain it , ala Dan, and the young salesdude listened intently. Later, he got me aside and thanked me for that explanation of why the windows do what they do. He told me that one of the other salesclowns told him the reason the windows did that was so they wouldn’t impinge on the convertible top as the doors were operated and that was the story he was to tell customers. AZBob Sent from my iPad > On Jul 16, 2022, at 4:50 PM, dan penoff.com via Mercedes > wrote: > > FYI, on coupes and convertibles you get a window “drop” when the door is > open. Wacky Teutonic engineering designed that because of the surface area of > the window is so large when you close the door it would take a great deal of > force to close it (compress the air it’s moving.) > > That way you can close the door with minimal effort. When it closes, the > window is moved up to the closed position, sealing the cabin. > > Getting a “new to you” car and sorting everything out is one of the best > parts of getting a new car. > > -D > >> On Jul 16, 2022, at 3:51 PM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes >> wrote: >> >> I spent the afternoon fooling around with the car. Someone had not put the >> center radio stack back in right when I think an AC controller was replaced. >> Actually not a hard job but I had to do it twice because I forgot to put the >> cup holder holder back in before putting the wood in. I found a bare wires >> pair, capped them off, no idea what it went to. I’ll have to investigate >> more. Some of the plastic screw places are busted but it seemed to be >> holding together mostly. Old cars, cheap plastic… >> >> Cleaned the leather and trim, it’s mostly in really good shape so not a lot >> of effort there. Driver seat has one tear all the other seats look really >> good. >> >> Got the windows all working. When you open a door the glass on that side >> drops down then goes back up when you close the door. Driver side was not >> going back up. Did a reset on them all and that cured it. >> >> There are some other electrical annoyances but just annoyances. The IC is >> still telling me the ABC is unhappy but it seems to be working fine so that >> is a later effort too. It is holding positions, has not slammed and seems to >> do what it’s supposed to do. >> >> Trunk release button was working the other day now it’s not. Unclear why. >> With the boot lid up the red light on the switch comes on so it must be >> getting power. Maybe the release solenoid isn’t working now but the wires >> were connected. PITA to use the blade key and the fob doesn’t lock/unlock. I >> think I had that working before when I looked at it first time and I did put >> new batteries in it, maybe I should do that again. The light on the fob >> blinks so must be something in the car if it’s actually powered enough. >> >> Then I got out a double action polisher I got a couple months ago. Got pads >> and 3-stage polishing kit for it. Started on the bonnet. Now the car has >> hail dimples so it’s not going to look new but I figured I‘d see how it >> works to get the paint buffed up. Did all 3 compounds on 3 different pads >> which I think I got right. Anyway, a final hand buff with wax and the paint >> looks pretty good. The black has a lot deeper look to it. I went to U Tube U >> so never done it before but it looks pretty good for a 20yo car. I’ll have >> to do the rest of the car soon. >> >> I’m liking this car! 104kmi on a 20yo car, not too shabby even with the >> hail damage. I’ll see if I can get to the DMV this week and get the title >> transferred and a plate and put it in the rotation. Do an oil change with >> the $2 sucker, probably do the trans fluid soon too. 722.6 so that’s fairly >> easy. >> >> Fun times! It’s a very cool car. >> >> --FT >> Sent from iFōn >> ___ >> http://www.okiebenz.com >> >> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ >> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com >> > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Polishing the CL, etc.
FYI, on coupes and convertibles you get a window “drop” when the door is open. Wacky Teutonic engineering designed that because of the surface area of the window is so large when you close the door it would take a great deal of force to close it (compress the air it’s moving.) That way you can close the door with minimal effort. When it closes, the window is moved up to the closed position, sealing the cabin. Getting a “new to you” car and sorting everything out is one of the best parts of getting a new car. -D > On Jul 16, 2022, at 3:51 PM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes > wrote: > > I spent the afternoon fooling around with the car. Someone had not put the > center radio stack back in right when I think an AC controller was replaced. > Actually not a hard job but I had to do it twice because I forgot to put the > cup holder holder back in before putting the wood in. I found a bare wires > pair, capped them off, no idea what it went to. I’ll have to investigate > more. Some of the plastic screw places are busted but it seemed to be holding > together mostly. Old cars, cheap plastic… > > Cleaned the leather and trim, it’s mostly in really good shape so not a lot > of effort there. Driver seat has one tear all the other seats look really > good. > > Got the windows all working. When you open a door the glass on that side > drops down then goes back up when you close the door. Driver side was not > going back up. Did a reset on them all and that cured it. > > There are some other electrical annoyances but just annoyances. The IC is > still telling me the ABC is unhappy but it seems to be working fine so that > is a later effort too. It is holding positions, has not slammed and seems to > do what it’s supposed to do. > > Trunk release button was working the other day now it’s not. Unclear why. > With the boot lid up the red light on the switch comes on so it must be > getting power. Maybe the release solenoid isn’t working now but the wires > were connected. PITA to use the blade key and the fob doesn’t lock/unlock. I > think I had that working before when I looked at it first time and I did put > new batteries in it, maybe I should do that again. The light on the fob > blinks so must be something in the car if it’s actually powered enough. > > Then I got out a double action polisher I got a couple months ago. Got pads > and 3-stage polishing kit for it. Started on the bonnet. Now the car has hail > dimples so it’s not going to look new but I figured I‘d see how it works to > get the paint buffed up. Did all 3 compounds on 3 different pads which I > think I got right. Anyway, a final hand buff with wax and the paint looks > pretty good. The black has a lot deeper look to it. I went to U Tube U so > never done it before but it looks pretty good for a 20yo car. I’ll have to do > the rest of the car soon. > > I’m liking this car! 104kmi on a 20yo car, not too shabby even with the hail > damage. I’ll see if I can get to the DMV this week and get the title > transferred and a plate and put it in the rotation. Do an oil change with the > $2 sucker, probably do the trans fluid soon too. 722.6 so that’s fairly easy. > > Fun times! It’s a very cool car. > > --FT > Sent from iFōn > ___ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Polishing the CL, etc.
I spent the afternoon fooling around with the car. Someone had not put the center radio stack back in right when I think an AC controller was replaced. Actually not a hard job but I had to do it twice because I forgot to put the cup holder holder back in before putting the wood in. I found a bare wires pair, capped them off, no idea what it went to. I’ll have to investigate more. Some of the plastic screw places are busted but it seemed to be holding together mostly. Old cars, cheap plastic… Cleaned the leather and trim, it’s mostly in really good shape so not a lot of effort there. Driver seat has one tear all the other seats look really good. Got the windows all working. When you open a door the glass on that side drops down then goes back up when you close the door. Driver side was not going back up. Did a reset on them all and that cured it. There are some other electrical annoyances but just annoyances. The IC is still telling me the ABC is unhappy but it seems to be working fine so that is a later effort too. It is holding positions, has not slammed and seems to do what it’s supposed to do. Trunk release button was working the other day now it’s not. Unclear why. With the boot lid up the red light on the switch comes on so it must be getting power. Maybe the release solenoid isn’t working now but the wires were connected. PITA to use the blade key and the fob doesn’t lock/unlock. I think I had that working before when I looked at it first time and I did put new batteries in it, maybe I should do that again. The light on the fob blinks so must be something in the car if it’s actually powered enough. Then I got out a double action polisher I got a couple months ago. Got pads and 3-stage polishing kit for it. Started on the bonnet. Now the car has hail dimples so it’s not going to look new but I figured I‘d see how it works to get the paint buffed up. Did all 3 compounds on 3 different pads which I think I got right. Anyway, a final hand buff with wax and the paint looks pretty good. The black has a lot deeper look to it. I went to U Tube U so never done it before but it looks pretty good for a 20yo car. I’ll have to do the rest of the car soon. I’m liking this car! 104kmi on a 20yo car, not too shabby even with the hail damage. I’ll see if I can get to the DMV this week and get the title transferred and a plate and put it in the rotation. Do an oil change with the $2 sucker, probably do the trans fluid soon too. 722.6 so that’s fairly easy. Fun times! It’s a very cool car. --FT Sent from iFōn ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
