[MBZ] Rear suspension link replacement - update
Hello all, I recently replaced the camber strut, thrust arm, and torque strut links on my 1987 300D. The old torque strut bushings were OK, but the thrust arm was pretty shot. The camber struts looked like they still had some life left - ie, no cracks in the bushings. Prior to replacing the links, I had some slight (but visible) negative camber in the rear but tire wear wasn't uneven. With the new links, there is no noticeable negative camber (and as a result I get slight tire rubbing on the rear fenders, which I didn't have before, doh!) and the rear sits about an inch higher than it did before. Of course, I torqued all the fasteners down only after raising the rear axle such that the distance from the center of the hub to the top of the fender was the same as when the car was sitting on the wheels. My question is this: Do these cars "settle down" or experience camber changes after a bit of driving, when the rear links are replaced? I didn't touch the rear tie rod yet, and as I understand it, this is the only piece on the rear suspension that affects alignment values. Thanks for any input, -Aaron 1987 300D 1987 300TD
Re: [MBZ] Rear suspension link replacement - update
Aaron: Jack it back up and release all the bolts -- you tightened them too much before you lifted the suspension. The sleeves must be completely free before you lift the axle or you get "excess" lift. The tires should not ever touch the fenders. Easy enough to do -- I need to finish my TE, and had to drop it down and re-align the firsts links I put it. Just remember that the sleeves in the bushings MUST be free to rotate when you lift the suspension back up. It helps to load the trunk with some weight, too, so you don't lift the car off the jack stands. Peter
Re: [MBZ] Rear suspension link replacement - update
Hi Aaron, In my limited experience, any suspension work like this does "settle down" after a few days/weeks or few hundred miles. Same with changes to springs and/or dampers. As the ride height drops, you'll get more negative camber. I'd leave it alone for a while and monitor the ride height. When it seems to have settled, or appears that it's NOT going to settle, then take it in for the final alignment at the dealership. I assume you'll have the tie rod changed at that time? Also, did you change the bushing at the bottom of the hub/carrier where the outer spring link attaches? Any plans for a K-Mac kit? Oh yeah - any photos? Would love to see that aluminium arm installed! :-) -- Dave M. Boise, ID 1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship) 1987 300D - 261kmi (Sportline) > -- > Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 02:41:30 -0800 > From: Aaron Lam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [MBZ] Rear suspension link replacement - update > > Hello all, > > I recently replaced the camber strut, thrust arm, and torque strut > links on my 1987 300D. The old torque strut bushings were OK, but the > thrust arm was pretty shot. The camber struts looked like they still > had some life left - ie, no cracks in the bushings. Prior to replacing > the links, I had some slight (but visible) negative camber in the rear > but tire wear wasn't uneven. With the new links, there is no > noticeable negative camber (and as a result I get slight tire rubbing > on the rear fenders, which I didn't have before, doh!) and the rear > sits about an inch higher than it did before. Of course, I torqued all > the fasteners down only after raising the rear axle such that the > distance from the center of the hub to the top of the fender was the > same as when the car was sitting on the wheels. > > My question is this: Do these cars "settle down" or experience camber > changes after a bit of driving, when the rear links are replaced? I > didn't touch the rear tie rod yet, and as I understand it, this is the > only piece on the rear suspension that affects alignment values. > Thanks for any input, > > -Aaron > 1987 300D > 1987 300TD
Re: [MBZ] Rear suspension link replacement - update
That's interesting Dave because I have not noticed any settling in my suspension work. I was able to get my ride height within 1 mm of factory original according to the dealer's alignment machine that's referenced in the FSM. Sometimes you may need to bouce the car, etc drive forwards and backwards a few times to get things to settle before you finally tighten everything down with the weight of the car on the suspension. Brian On 12/27/05, Dave M. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Hi Aaron, > > In my limited experience, any suspension work like this does "settle > down" after a few days/weeks or few hundred miles. Same with changes > to springs and/or dampers. As the ride height drops, you'll get more > negative camber. I'd leave it alone for a while and monitor the ride > height. When it seems to have settled, or appears that it's NOT going > to settle, then take it in for the final alignment at the dealership. > I assume you'll have the tie rod changed at that time? Also, did you > change the bushing at the bottom of the hub/carrier where the outer > spring link attaches? Any plans for a K-Mac kit? > > Oh yeah - any photos? Would love to see that aluminium arm installed! > > > :-) > > -- > Dave M. > Boise, ID > 1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship) > 1987 300D - 261kmi (Sportline) > > > > ------ > > Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 02:41:30 -0800 > > From: Aaron Lam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Subject: [MBZ] Rear suspension link replacement - update > > > > Hello all, > > > > I recently replaced the camber strut, thrust arm, and torque strut > > links on my 1987 300D. The old torque strut bushings were OK, but the > > thrust arm was pretty shot. The camber struts looked like they still > > had some life left - ie, no cracks in the bushings. Prior to replacing > > the links, I had some slight (but visible) negative camber in the rear > > but tire wear wasn't uneven. With the new links, there is no > > noticeable negative camber (and as a result I get slight tire rubbing > > on the rear fenders, which I didn't have before, doh!) and the rear > > sits about an inch higher than it did before. Of course, I torqued all > > the fasteners down only after raising the rear axle such that the > > distance from the center of the hub to the top of the fender was the > > same as when the car was sitting on the wheels. > > > > My question is this: Do these cars "settle down" or experience camber > > changes after a bit of driving, when the rear links are replaced? I > > didn't touch the rear tie rod yet, and as I understand it, this is the > > only piece on the rear suspension that affects alignment values. > > Thanks for any input, > > > > -Aaron > > 1987 300D > > 1987 300TD > > ___ > http://www.striplin.net > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net >
Re: [MBZ] Rear suspension link replacement - update
Thanks everyone! Perhaps the cause of my "lack of" negative camber was due to the old camber strut being somewhat worn out...? Anyhow, after driving around for a bit yesterday, I measured the height from the center of the center cap to the tip of the fender, and it's about 14" - pretty much what it was before swapping out the links. I suppose I should get the rear fenders rolled soon. Peter: Yes, with stock wheels/tires/suspension, the rear tire *shouldn't* touch the fender. I'm right at the limit of clearance - I have 235/45/17 rear tires on a 17x8.25 ET34 wheel. Previously, I had *just* enough negative camber to avoid rubbing, even with two passengers and luggage in the trunk! Dave: I'll take some pics of the aluminum arm soon. As for alignment, I'm waiting for my new front LCA's to arrive, so I'll install those and the new rear tie rod before taking it to the stealer for the final alignment. The rear bushing at the wheel carrier end of the spring link needs some funky special tool (which I don't have) and the local MB indy can do it for about $100 (parts + labor) so I'll probably go that route. -Aaron 1987 300D 1987 300TD
Re: [MBZ] Rear suspension link replacement - update
Sounds good, Aaron. I thought it would settle down after a little bit. I'm curious what your final alignment specs turn out to be, with no camber adjustment. Couple more questions: 1) 17x8.25 wheels? That's a rather unusual size, and sounds suspiciously like the 500E Evo wheels! What shoes you runnin' on the car these days? ;-) But yeah, you're on the ragged edge of tire clearance without rolled fenders, that's for sure. Bet it looks fantastic, though. 2) Did you go with Sportline front control arms, and are they early or late style? :-) -Dave M. > -- > Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 14:29:36 -0800 > From: Aaron Lam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rear suspension link replacement - update > > > Thanks everyone! Perhaps the cause of my "lack of" negative camber was > due to the old camber strut being somewhat worn out...? Anyhow, after > driving around for a bit yesterday, I measured the height from the > center of the center cap to the tip of the fender, and it's about 14" > - pretty much what it was before swapping out the links. I suppose I > should get the rear fenders rolled soon. > > Peter: Yes, with stock wheels/tires/suspension, the rear tire > *shouldn't* touch the fender. I'm right at the limit of clearance - I > have 235/45/17 rear tires on a 17x8.25 ET34 wheel. Previously, I had > *just* enough negative camber to avoid rubbing, even with two > passengers and luggage in the trunk! > > Dave: I'll take some pics of the aluminum arm soon. As for alignment, > I'm waiting for my new front LCA's to arrive, so I'll install those > and the new rear tie rod before taking it to the stealer for the final > alignment. The rear bushing at the wheel carrier end of the spring > link needs some funky special tool (which I don't have) and the local > MB indy can do it for about $100 (parts + labor) so I'll probably go > that route. > > -Aaron > 1987 300D > 1987 300TD
Re: [MBZ] Rear suspension link replacement - update
Dave, the fronts are the 5-spoke 17x8 ET37 "E430 sport" wheels, and the rears are R129 wheels which look EXACTLY like the fronts but are 17x8.25 ET34. As for the control arms, I went with the regular 124-330-35/34-07 ones - late style with the non-removable ball joint. They were a LOT cheaper than the Sportline ones, that's for sure! On a side note, you should pick up the 2006 "Geniune Mercedes-Benz Accessories Wheels" brochure from your local MB dealer. They have LOTS of neat looking wheels with part numbers and all dimensions. The W209, R171, and W203 all have a good selection of 17x7.5 ET37 wheels, which IMO is the perfect size wheel for a lowered non-500E 124! If you can't get ahold of the catalog, I can send one over... -Aaron
Re: [MBZ] Rear suspension link replacement - update
Aaron, Wow, I didn't know there were R129 wheels in that size. Very interesting! It was probably smart to get the late style LCA's, now you have the option of running whatever brakes you want. It's a shame the Sportline LCA's are so blasted expensive (~$700 wholesale per pair, dealer only). Thanks for the tip on the wheel catalog, I'll try to pick one of those up. Also thanks for the tip on the Koken tools. I assume they must be better kwality than the ST stuff, which to date I have not been impressed with... :-) -Dave M. > -- > Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 16:58:07 -0800 > From: Aaron Lam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rear suspension link replacement - update > > > Dave, the fronts are the 5-spoke 17x8 ET37 "E430 sport" wheels, and > the rears are R129 wheels which look EXACTLY like the fronts but are > 17x8.25 ET34. As for the control arms, I went with the regular > 124-330-35/34-07 ones - late style with the non-removable ball joint. > They were a LOT cheaper than the Sportline ones, that's for sure! > > On a side note, you should pick up the 2006 "Geniune Mercedes-Benz > Accessories Wheels" brochure from your local MB dealer. They have LOTS > of neat looking wheels with part numbers and all dimensions. The W209, > R171, and W203 all have a good selection of 17x7.5 ET37 wheels, which > IMO is the perfect size wheel for a lowered non-500E 124! If you can't > get ahold of the catalog, I can send one over... > > -Aaron
