Re: [MBZ] a picture for you

[Craig via Mercedes]

On Thu, 07 Aug 2014 05:11:38 -0400 Archer75--- via Mercedes
 wrote:

> This is an experimental transmission to see if these Picasa photos will 
> go through
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The non-Picasa photo (it was a picture you attached to your email and
had nothing to do with Picasa) came through just fine.


Craig

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[MBZ] a picture for you

[Archer75--- via Mercedes]

This is the repair of a broken support for the air cleaner on an '83 
300D.  The rear attachment point of the three bolt bracket broke off.  
An extension was made out of 1/8" by 1" bar stock from Home Depot and 
its height adjusted with washers to match the oil drain pipe from the 
bottom pan.

It has worked well for about a year and 10,000 miles.

This is an experimental transmission to see if these Picasa photos will 
go through

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Re: [MBZ] a picture for you

[archer]

Hmmm.  While looking for prices I ran into some similar opinions as yours. 
One guy who works at a well known research lab in California said he likes 
the 87III better than the 87V; another said the leads with the 87V were too 
cheap; and there were a dozen other opinions and preferences for different 
models.  One fellow bought one used which had been beaten up pretty well; 
sent it in to Fluke, they fixed everything, and didn't charge him.  No one 
said there was a better meter than Fluke, though.

The result was that I didn't order one yet.
Since the Fluke will mainly be used for voltage, amperage, and resistance 
the more specialized functions won't really be needed.  Accuracy is the main 
requirement.

Think I'll look around for an 83.  Thanks again, Jim.
Gerry
P.S. Just found a new 83V on EBay for $225 including shipping.  Will read up 
on it tonight and probably order.  "Need" a big display.



So Fluke is still the best, just at it was years ago?  Ordering one
tonight.


So far as I know.  I can't imagine a better one, anyway.
Now, whether or not it's the best _value_ I couldn't say.

I have an 83 that I bought brand new, and still it's my
main meter.  I bought two 87's used since then, but I find
that I actually prefer the larger display of the 83 and
the way its analog bargraph works to the 87.  But the 87
has true RMS and optional higher resolution, and a back-
light.  (And a lesser battery life.)  Brand-new 87's may
have changed this a bit, but I don't think the bargraph
has changed.  (In the 83 it's a moving bar, like an LED
VU meter, representing the entire display value whereas
in the 87 it's a moving segment representing the second
digit or something like that.  More sensitive, but less
intuitive IMHO.)  Perhaps it's now mode-selectable?  They've
revamped the 80 series several times since it came out.

One thing is for sure, the 83 kicks the cookies out of
the $3 Harbor Freight in-car meters in quality of construction
and speed of reading.  The HF meters chunk along at about
one conversion per second, whereas the Flukes are something
like 10x that.  I had a HF meter melt in the boat before
it ever got used, had to toss it.

-- Jim 



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Re: [MBZ] a picture for you

[Jim Cathey]

So Fluke is still the best, just at it was years ago?  Ordering one 
tonight.


So far as I know.  I can't imagine a better one, anyway.
Now, whether or not it's the best _value_ I couldn't say.

I have an 83 that I bought brand new, and still it's my
main meter.  I bought two 87's used since then, but I find
that I actually prefer the larger display of the 83 and
the way its analog bargraph works to the 87.  But the 87
has true RMS and optional higher resolution, and a back-
light.  (And a lesser battery life.)  Brand-new 87's may
have changed this a bit, but I don't think the bargraph
has changed.  (In the 83 it's a moving bar, like an LED
VU meter, representing the entire display value whereas
in the 87 it's a moving segment representing the second
digit or something like that.  More sensitive, but less
intuitive IMHO.)  Perhaps it's now mode-selectable?  They've
revamped the 80 series several times since it came out.

One thing is for sure, the 83 kicks the cookies out of
the $3 Harbor Freight in-car meters in quality of construction
and speed of reading.  The HF meters chunk along at about
one conversion per second, whereas the Flukes are something
like 10x that.  I had a HF meter melt in the boat before
it ever got used, had to toss it.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] a picture for you

[archer]

Thanks, Jim.  Your website is a great reference source.  I'm going back and 
check everything again based on your information.  So Fluke is still the 
best, just at it was years ago?  Ordering one tonight.

Sincerely,
Gerry
--- 
From: "Jim Cathey" 
While the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual was very useful in testing
the circuits connected to the Climate Control units, I couldn't find
many resitances or amperages with which they could be tested except
for the monovalve (15 ohms) which was okay.

I have some in my checklist in here:
http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/mamerepairs.html
You should check the flap control resistances.  In a pinch you can
take the pin to an offender out of the connector shell and get by
without that flap, though of course airflow direction will not be
optimal then.  Still, might be better than pulling the dash.  (Which
I don't think you have to do to change out a switchover valve.  The
pods, maybe yes, but not the electropneumatic valve(s).)

Old DMM was bad so measurements were made with an old VOM.

Your resistances look off based on my reading of schematics.
But a VOM isn't usually noted for accurate sub-ohm resistance
testing.

can someone tell me which is the best general purpose DMM on the
market?

Fluke 87.
-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] a picture for you

[Jim Cathey]

While the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual was very useful in testing 
the circuits connected to the Climate Control units, I couldn't find 
many resitances or amperages with which they could be tested except 
for the monovalve (15 ohms) which was okay.


I have some in my checklist in here:

http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/mamerepairs.html

You should check the flap control resistances.  In a pinch you can
take the pin to an offender out of the connector shell and get by
without that flap, though of course airflow direction will not be
optimal then.  Still, might be better than pulling the dash.  (Which
I don't think you have to do to change out a switchover valve.  The
pods, maybe yes, but not the electropneumatic valve(s).)


Old DMM was bad so measurements were made with an old VOM.


Your resistances look off based on my reading of schematics.
But a VOM isn't usually noted for accurate sub-ohm resistance
testing.

can someone tell me which is the best general purpose DMM on the 
market?


Fluke 87.

-- Jim



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[MBZ] a picture for you

[archer]

The pc board in the push button control assembly in my '83 300D slowly 
burned up.  I could smell it for awhile but couldn't pinpoint it.  Finally 
the blower and compressor stopped and the pushbuttons froze.  I bought a 
used pushbutton assembly, a temperature control unit, and a blower speed 
control unit, but couldn't find a blower resistor unit (located over the RF 
wheel).


While the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual was very useful in testing the 
circuits connected to the Climate Control units, I couldn't find many 
resitances or amperages with which they could be tested except for the 
monovalve (15 ohms) which was okay.


The blower resistors in series showed declining resistance as follows over 
the six connections:

All resistors in series (terminals 2 to 5) 2.8 ohms.
As each resistor was eliminated in series:  2.6  1.8  0.8  0.6  0.2 ohms
Separate resistors showed the following:  1.2  0.6  0.4  0.4  0.3 ohms
Visually the resistors looked good.

Old DM was bad so measurements were made with an old VOM.

A path on the PC board to connector #10 on the left hand side of the PC 
board  appeared to be burned.  (See picture.)  According to the manual this 
connects to the defrost flaps switchover valve electromagnet.  I checked 
this connection and got no resistance so it seems that the electromagnet may 
have shorted out and then burned out.


Would like to hook everything up in hopes of having some air conditioning 
but since the cause of the pushbutton unit burning up couldn't be definitely 
determined, I don't want to just put it back together and hope that it won't 
burn up the replacement units.


If someone who has a 300D/300CD/300TD; 123.133-153-193 could take out the 16 
amp fuse #8, the 8 amp fuse #14, connect an ammeter across the fuses 
terminals one at a time , and take a reading of the amps on across each fuse 
terminal with the air conditioner and fan running on high; I could do that 
on my car to see if the amps are approximately the same.  If so, it would 
hopefully be safe to run my A/C.  If the Defrost flaps switchover valve is 
actually burned out and causes the A/C to be inneffective, I'll have to pull 
the dash and replace it.  Help on this repair will be greatly appreciated.
Also, can someone tell me which is the best general purpose DM on the 
market?

Thanks,
Gerry 
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