Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner

2009-09-03 Thread Barry Stark
Peter -
There is a drilling jig that one must use to keep the holes in the proper
alignment when machining for the inserts on these engines. What makes the
job more difficult is the alloy with the silicon. It makes for a good
wearing surface but it is really tough on drills and taps as well. Timeserts
are also available in stainless, I'm not sure what MB calls for in this
application. An even more superior insert is the Keensert. We use these a
great deal on the parts we design for spacecraft, but the downside is more
machining costs, more space around the hole for the flange, and of course
cost.

Barry

 What you describe {Threads not perpendicular to the milled
 surface} would be a night mare to repair, requiring a threaded insert.

 Our shop is a foundry and machine shop. We pour many aluminum
 castings and machine them.
 Many of the aerospace parts have the threads helicoiled.
 Some are helicoiled because the are serviced in the field. The
 Helicoil, having a stainless steel thread makes a superior joint
 in all ways.
 Many parts have repair procedures to salvage damaged threads.



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Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner

2009-09-02 Thread Peter Frederick
They do not, which is why you get chain slap on startup.  The slapping chain 
clanks as well as eventually snapping the upper chain rail, and the broken off 
part usually (not always) falls into the crank sprocket. thus snapping the 
chain.

This was a much worse problem with the original single row chain, but the later 
double row chain still wears excessively in normal use and can do the same 
thing.  

Worse yet, on the earlier aluminum block engines, the head bolts seize in the 
block, requiring a special jig to install steel inserts in order to re-install 
the heads.  This is VERY expensive.

Any M116 aluminum block engine producing chain slap on startup needs a new 
chain ASAP.  I have also seen a recommendation to cut off the part of the upper 
guide that gets broken off by the chain, so that it will not snap off and fall 
into the chain case.  

Peter

-OrigTinal Message-
From: Hendrik  Fay heni...@ozemail.com.au
Sent: Sep 2, 2009 8:45 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner

So how do they maintain pressure, when there is no oil pressure?

Hendrik

Mathieu J. Cama wrote:

   
  ---Original Message---
  From: Hendrik  Fay heni...@ozemail.com.au
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner
  Sent: 02 Sep '09 12:24
  
  If the tensioner is the same as the inline 4 and 6 petrol motors, then
  there is a spring and ratchet mechanism in there which would not be
  affected by oil pressure.
  Timing chain rattle is a different sound to the ticking produced by
  lifters and such. Old oil will make the ticking louder and longer.
  
  Hendrik
  
 

 These are oil pressure fed tensioners. No spring or ratchet. Hence why folks 
 get jumpy when they begin making noise. 

 Chain, rails, and tensioner is a bargain compared to a full valve job and 
 possibly more when the chain snaps.

 This is not to say the lifters are not gummed up and making noise as well.

 Mathieu

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Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner

2009-09-02 Thread Mitch Haley

Peter Frederick wrote:
They do not, which is why you get chain slap on startup.  


Sounds like a startup oiling system would be useful for that engine.
Either a pressure tank on a solenoid valve, or an electric oil pump, get some 
pressure in the oil galley before the engine starts turning.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner

2009-09-02 Thread pm7088


Worse yet, on the earlier aluminum block engines, the head bolts seize in the 
block, requiring a special jig to install steel inserts in order to re-install 
the heads. This is VERY expensive. 

Why not Helicoil them? 

Pete 

Windsor 


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Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner

2009-09-02 Thread Peter Frederick
The bolts go into the block at an angle.  If you don't get them exactly right, 
the bolts won't torque correctly and the head gasket blows.  Problem was solved 
by using TimeSert type steel inserts at the factory, but there is no way to 
tell if you have them on early production engines unless you pull the heads...

Helicoils don't work very well when the whole thread comes out with the bolt, 
which is the usual case.  To get the necessary strength, the hole must be 
drilled, threaded, and the insert screwed in and locked.  The jig is necessary 
to get the correct angle on the bolts, they don't run square with the deck. 
Last time my buddy had this done, it cost $1500.  

MUCH cheaper to replace the chain.  The tensioner system works just fine, by 
the way.  It's only when the chain is excessively worn that it slaps.  There IS 
a spring in the tensioner to apply some pressure, and the oil usually stays put 
inside it with minimal leakdown.  However, when the chain is so long that the 
tensioner is almost fully extended, any leakdown will let the chain flap around 
until the tensioner re-fills.

Peter

-Original Message-
From: pm7...@comcast.net
Sent: Sep 2, 2009 10:36 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner



Worse yet, on the earlier aluminum block engines, the head bolts seize in the 
block, requiring a special jig to install steel inserts in order to re-install 
the heads. This is VERY expensive. 

Why not Helicoil them? 

Pete 

Windsor 


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Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner

2009-09-02 Thread pm7088
What you describe {Threads not perpendicular to the milled surface} would be a 
night mare to repair, requiring a threaded insert. 

Our shop is a foundry and machine shop. We pour many aluminum castings and 
machine them. 
Many of the aerospace parts have the threads helicoiled. 
Some are helicoiled because the are serviced in the field. The Helicoil, having 
a stainless steel thread makes a superior joint in all ways. 
Many parts have repair procedures to salvage damaged threads. 


-- 

Peter Arnold 

Windsor, CT 

- Original Message - 
From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net 
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Wednesday, September 2, 2009 10:57:37 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner 

The bolts go into the block at an angle. If you don't get them exactly right, 
the bolts won't torque correctly and the head gasket blows. Problem was solved 
by using TimeSert type steel inserts at the factory, but there is no way to 
tell if you have them on early production engines unless you pull the heads... 

Helicoils don't work very well when the whole thread comes out with the bolt, 
which is the usual case. To get the necessary strength, the hole must be 
drilled, threaded, and the insert screwed in and locked. The jig is necessary 
to get the correct angle on the bolts, they don't run square with the deck. 
Last time my buddy had this done, it cost $1500. 

MUCH cheaper to replace the chain. The tensioner system works just fine, by the 
way. It's only when the chain is excessively worn that it slaps. There IS a 
spring in the tensioner to apply some pressure, and the oil usually stays put 
inside it with minimal leakdown. However, when the chain is so long that the 
tensioner is almost fully extended, any leakdown will let the chain flap around 
until the tensioner re-fills. 

Peter 

-Original Message- 
From: pm7...@comcast.net 
Sent: Sep 2, 2009 10:36 AM 
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner 
 
 
 
Worse yet, on the earlier aluminum block engines, the head bolts seize in the 
block, requiring a special jig to install steel inserts in order to re-install 
the heads. This is VERY expensive. 
 
Why not Helicoil them? 
 
Pete 
 
Windsor 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner

2009-09-01 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Should not take more than about 10 minutes to change, just take 2 bolts 
off, pull it out, put new one in, install bolts.


Loren Faeth wrote:
How long/difficult of a job is it to change the tensioner on the 3.8 
gasser?  How much stuff has to be taken off to get to the tensioner?  
Anyone able to get me the pdf for that job?  (1985 380SL)


Daughter's Sl makes quite a clatter at startup at the front of the 
right bank.  It only lasts a second.  Sounds like a tensioner leaking 
down to me.  Anybody got a better idea?  ~130k on the car.  Chain is 
probably a little loose, but shouldn't need changing yet.


Loren Faeth

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Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner

2009-09-01 Thread Loren Faeth

Thanks!  I was hoping for something easy!

At 07:43 AM 9/1/2009, you wrote:
Should not take more than about 10 minutes to change, just take 2 
bolts off, pull it out, put new one in, install bolts.


Loren Faeth wrote:
How long/difficult of a job is it to change the tensioner on the 
3.8 gasser?  How much stuff has to be taken off to get to the tensioner?

Anyone able to get me the pdf for that job?  (1985 380SL)

Daughter's Sl makes quite a clatter at startup at the front of the 
right bank.  It only lasts a second.  Sounds like a tensioner 
leaking down to me.  Anybody got a better idea?  ~130k on the 
car.  Chain is probably a little loose, but shouldn't need changing yet.


Loren Faeth

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Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 
560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D 
euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com

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Loren Faeth 



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Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner

2009-09-01 Thread Mathieu J . Cama

On Sep 1, 2009, at 12:29 AM, Peter Frederick wrote:

Roll in a new chain and replace the upper right tensioner rail NOW 
before the rail gets broken by the chain slap and the chunk falls down 
and snaps the chain, unless you WANT to do a valve job.


Check stretch every 30,000 miles and replace at 4 degrees.

Peter



This is sound advice!

Replace all the upper rails, not just the one, they are inexpensive and 
become brittle with heat cycling. Use a genuine MB tensioner only! 
Chain is not hard to do, either. Inspect the cam sprockets for wear 
while you are in there.


Mathieu


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Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner

2009-09-01 Thread LarryT

Hi Loren -
Changing the TC tensioner  is easy as Kaleb suggested but that doesn't 
address a possibly worn chain, guide/rail that may be badly worn.  They 
should be inspected IMO.


Good luck -
LarryT
91 300D

OilAnalysis Time?
Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
www.youroil.net



--
From: Loren Faeth lfa...@leadingchange.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 2009 9:10 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner


Thanks!  I was hoping for something easy!

At 07:43 AM 9/1/2009, you wrote:
Should not take more than about 10 minutes to change, just take 2 bolts 
off, pull it out, put new one in, install bolts.


Loren Faeth wrote:
How long/difficult of a job is it to change the tensioner on the 3.8 
gasser?  How much stuff has to be taken off to get to the tensioner?

Anyone able to get me the pdf for that job?  (1985 380SL)

Daughter's Sl makes quite a clatter at startup at the front of the right 
bank.  It only lasts a second.  Sounds like a tensioner leaking down to 
me.  Anybody got a better idea?  ~130k on the car.  Chain is probably a 
little loose, but shouldn't need changing yet.


Loren Faeth

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Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL, 
87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 
240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com

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Loren Faeth

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Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner

2009-09-01 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

Now if it was this easy on a 119 motor, I would be all set.

Mathieu J. Cama wrote:

On Sep 1, 2009, at 12:29 AM, Peter Frederick wrote:

Roll in a new chain and replace the upper right tensioner rail NOW 
before the rail gets broken by the chain slap and the chunk falls 
down and snaps the chain, unless you WANT to do a valve job.


Check stretch every 30,000 miles and replace at 4 degrees.

Peter



This is sound advice!

Replace all the upper rails, not just the one, they are inexpensive 
and become brittle with heat cycling. Use a genuine MB tensioner only! 
Chain is not hard to do, either. Inspect the cam sprockets for wear 
while you are in there.


Mathieu


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95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner

2009-09-01 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
I did not mention, when I mess with the chain or tensioner on those, I 
always just roll in a new chain and top rails along with the tensioner.


LarryT wrote:

Hi Loren -
Changing the TC tensioner  is easy as Kaleb suggested but that doesn't 
address a possibly worn chain, guide/rail that may be badly worn.  
They should be inspected IMO.


Good luck -
LarryT
91 300D

OilAnalysis Time?
Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
www.youroil.net



--
From: Loren Faeth lfa...@leadingchange.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 2009 9:10 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner


Thanks!  I was hoping for something easy!

At 07:43 AM 9/1/2009, you wrote:
Should not take more than about 10 minutes to change, just take 2 
bolts off, pull it out, put new one in, install bolts.


Loren Faeth wrote:
How long/difficult of a job is it to change the tensioner on the 
3.8 gasser?  How much stuff has to be taken off to get to the 
tensioner?

Anyone able to get me the pdf for that job?  (1985 380SL)

Daughter's Sl makes quite a clatter at startup at the front of the 
right bank.  It only lasts a second.  Sounds like a tensioner 
leaking down to me.  Anybody got a better idea?  ~130k on the car.  
Chain is probably a little loose, but shouldn't need changing yet.


Loren Faeth

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Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 
560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D 
euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com

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95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner

2009-09-01 Thread Mathieu J . Cama

On Sep 1, 2009, at 5:52 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:


Now if it was this easy on a 119 motor, I would be all set.


4 cams... double the pleasure. Timing advance units... even more fun. 
Baum sells some really nice tools that should make your life 
considerably easier on that job.


Mathieu


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Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner

2009-09-01 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Tue, 1 Sep 2009 18:30:34 -0400 Mathieu J. Cama c...@oldworldauto.com
wrote:

 On Sep 1, 2009, at 5:52 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
 
  Now if it was this easy on a 119 motor, I would be all set.
 
 4 cams... double the pleasure. Timing advance units... even more fun. 
 Baum sells some really nice tools that should make your life 
 considerably easier on that job.

Do they sell any tools to make getting the power steering out any easier?

Where do they sell them?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner

2009-09-01 Thread Hendrik Fay
From memory those small V8's had some problems with camshaft wear, 
which resulted in a ticking noise.
Do these have solid or hydraulic lifters? Hydraulic lifters have been 
known to tick until the oil pressure builds up in them.
I don't know that you can measure timing chain stretch in the petrol 
models but I could be wrong.

However guide rail failure is a problem.

Hendrik

Peter Frederick wrote:
Roll in a new chain and replace the upper right tensioner rail NOW 
before the rail gets broken by the chain slap and the chunk falls down 
and snaps the chain, unless you WANT to do a valve job.


Check stretch every 30,000 miles and replace at 4 degrees.

Peter



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Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner

2009-09-01 Thread Hendrik Fay
If the tensioner is the same as the inline 4 and 6 petrol motors, then 
there is a spring and ratchet mechanism in there which would not be 
affected by oil pressure.
Timing chain rattle is a different sound to the ticking produced by 
lifters and such. Old oil will make the ticking louder and longer.


Hendrik

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
Should not take more than about 10 minutes to change, just take 2 
bolts off, pull it out, put new one in, install bolts.


Loren Faeth wrote:
How long/difficult of a job is it to change the tensioner on the 3.8 
gasser?  How much stuff has to be taken off to get to the tensioner?  
Anyone able to get me the pdf for that job?  (1985 380SL)


Daughter's Sl makes quite a clatter at startup at the front of the 
right bank.  It only lasts a second.  Sounds like a tensioner leaking 
down to me.  Anybody got a better idea?  ~130k on the car.  Chain is 
probably a little loose, but shouldn't need changing yet.


Loren Faeth






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Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner

2009-09-01 Thread Mathieu J. Cama



  ---Original Message---
  From: Hendrik  Fay heni...@ozemail.com.au
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner
  Sent: 02 Sep '09 12:24
  
  If the tensioner is the same as the inline 4 and 6 petrol motors, then
  there is a spring and ratchet mechanism in there which would not be
  affected by oil pressure.
  Timing chain rattle is a different sound to the ticking produced by
  lifters and such. Old oil will make the ticking louder and longer.
  
  Hendrik
  

These are oil pressure fed tensioners. No spring or ratchet. Hence why folks 
get jumpy when they begin making noise. 

Chain, rails, and tensioner is a bargain compared to a full valve job and 
possibly more when the chain snaps.

This is not to say the lifters are not gummed up and making noise as well.

Mathieu

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Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner

2009-09-01 Thread Bob Rentfro
I just hired a dude whose last name is Mathieustrange...

Bob R

On Tue, Sep 1, 2009 at 7:59 PM, Mathieu J. Cama c...@oldworldauto.comwrote:




   ---Original Message---
   From: Hendrik  Fay heni...@ozemail.com.au
   Subject: Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner
   Sent: 02 Sep '09 12:24
 
   If the tensioner is the same as the inline 4 and 6 petrol motors, then
   there is a spring and ratchet mechanism in there which would not be
   affected by oil pressure.
   Timing chain rattle is a different sound to the ticking produced by
   lifters and such. Old oil will make the ticking louder and longer.
 
   Hendrik
 

 These are oil pressure fed tensioners. No spring or ratchet. Hence why
 folks get jumpy when they begin making noise.

 Chain, rails, and tensioner is a bargain compared to a full valve job and
 possibly more when the chain snaps.

 This is not to say the lifters are not gummed up and making noise as well.

 Mathieu

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Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner

2009-09-01 Thread Hendrik Fay

So how do they maintain pressure, when there is no oil pressure?

Hendrik

Mathieu J. Cama wrote:


  

 ---Original Message---
 From: Hendrik  Fay heni...@ozemail.com.au
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner
 Sent: 02 Sep '09 12:24
 
 If the tensioner is the same as the inline 4 and 6 petrol motors, then

 there is a spring and ratchet mechanism in there which would not be
 affected by oil pressure.
 Timing chain rattle is a different sound to the ticking produced by
 lifters and such. Old oil will make the ticking louder and longer.
 
 Hendrik
 



These are oil pressure fed tensioners. No spring or ratchet. Hence why folks get jumpy when they begin making noise. 


Chain, rails, and tensioner is a bargain compared to a full valve job and 
possibly more when the chain snaps.

This is not to say the lifters are not gummed up and making noise as well.

Mathieu

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Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner

2009-08-31 Thread Jim Cathey

How long/difficult of a job is it to change the tensioner on the 3.8


Never done it, but I suspect it's not hard to get to.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner

2009-08-31 Thread John Freer
Loren,
you are flirting with a total KABOM.My 86 560Sl had 145K on it with no
chain slap, just a leaking valve cover gasket. Pulled the cover and
found the nylon chain guides broken into 4 pieces. Oilers, tensioner.
chain guides new chain and gasket was 1200 bucks at my Indie. Best
money I ever spent! Like this comment or not, I have lost faith in the
MB V8 engines.

John

On Mon, Aug 31, 2009 at 8:43 PM, Loren Faethlfa...@leadingchange.com wrote:
 How long/difficult of a job is it to change the tensioner on the 3.8 gasser?
  How much stuff has to be taken off to get to the tensioner?  Anyone able to
 get me the pdf for that job?  (1985 380SL)

 Daughter's Sl makes quite a clatter at startup at the front of the right
 bank.  It only lasts a second.  Sounds like a tensioner leaking down to me.
  Anybody got a better idea?  ~130k on the car.  Chain is probably a little
 loose, but shouldn't need changing yet.

 Loren Faeth

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Re: [MBZ] 380SL chain tensioner

2009-08-31 Thread Peter Frederick
Roll in a new chain and replace the upper right tensioner rail NOW  
before the rail gets broken by the chain slap and the chunk falls  
down and snaps the chain, unless you WANT to do a valve job.


Check stretch every 30,000 miles and replace at 4 degrees.

Peter

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