Re: [MBZ] Dang. It was one of the 'good' fuses.

2009-08-15 Thread Frederick W Moir

Dwight, et al.
Nope! Nothing left but memories.
I had to buy three whole boxes of fuse replacement parts for my 170v, 
and, being a starving Cpl., grumbled at the price.

Happy Days of Yore!
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred.

At 08:14 AM 8/15/2009, you wrote:

What a good idea-before the UK adopted the US throwaway society.
Do you still have any?  Could be an event at the ChowdahQ.

Dwight (who used to roll his own-Bull Durham.)

Dwight E. Giles, Jr.



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Re: [MBZ] Dang. It was one of the 'good' fuses.

2009-08-15 Thread Dwight E. Giles, Jr
What a good idea-before the UK adopted the US throwaway society.
Do you still have any?  Could be an event at the ChowdahQ. 

Dwight (who used to roll his own-Bull Durham.)

Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
1978 240D 4 speed. 218K miles.  
1979 240D- auto -250K + miles. (SOLD). 
1990 300D 2.5t 160K miles.
Wickford, RI

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Frederick W Moir
Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 10:06 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Dang. It was one of the 'good' fuses.

Grretings and Salutations, All.
In the U.K. in the '60's you could, indeed, get a box of metal form 
fuses to replace the burned through part on the ceramic body. Long 
gone now, of course. Just like the early days, a fuse "kit" was a 
card with several gauges of  wire, a glass tube, some metal end caps 
and a file-cum-glass cutter thing. Roll your own!
God, I'm gettin' olde.
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
'87 190DT Bent
'87 190DT Blue
'85 300TD Sunshine.



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Re: [MBZ] Dang. It was one of the 'good' fuses.

2009-08-14 Thread Fmiser
> tyler wrote:

> I like to coat the ends in di-electric grease, which seems to
> eliminate corrosion issues permanently.

Doesn't have to be di-electric grease. Wheel bearing grease,
white grease, whatever.  The grease keeps the air away so
there's no oxidation. The metals make enough contact for
electricity to flow.  I do that to practically all automotive
electrical connections from headlights to the battery terminals. 

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Dang. It was one of the 'good' fuses.

2009-08-14 Thread Frederick W Moir

Grretings and Salutations, All.
In the U.K. in the '60's you could, indeed, get a box of metal form 
fuses to replace the burned through part on the ceramic body. Long 
gone now, of course. Just like the early days, a fuse "kit" was a 
card with several gauges of  wire, a glass tube, some metal end caps 
and a file-cum-glass cutter thing. Roll your own!

God, I'm gettin' olde.
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
'87 190DT Bent
'87 190DT Blue
'85 300TD Sunshine.

At 02:30 PM 8/14/2009, you wrote:
Since the porcelain bodies of the fuse are still good, it would 
seem that the fusible metal strips would be available someplace 
without buying the whole fuse?

No.
-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Dang. It was one of the 'good' fuses.

2009-08-14 Thread archer
Thanks, Manfred.  Gainesville is out of my range for now but I did find one 
for $29.99 on the Harbor Freight website.  I think that might have been the 
one several members bought.

Gerry
--
From: "MG" 

Gerry,
The Harbor Freight store in Gainesville has one on sale right now
for $9.99 till Aug 24th. Don't know how good they are but at that
price I guess it could be worth a try. You can always take it
back if you don't like it. They are real good about that.
Manfred

Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 12:00:44 -0400
From: "archer" 
P.S. What's a brand/source for an infrared thermometer?  Flukes are
available for around $100 but I seem to remember a discussion
about cheaper
ones that also worked well.
Thanks,
Gerry

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Re: [MBZ] Dang. It was one of the 'good' fuses.

2009-08-14 Thread MG

Gerry,

The Harbor Freight store in Gainesville has one on sale right now 
for $9.99 till Aug 24th. Don't know how good they are but at that 
price I guess it could be worth a try. You can always take it 
back if you don't like it. They are real good about that.


Manfred



Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 12:00:44 -0400
From: "archer" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Dang.  It was one of the 'good' fuses.


P.S. What's a brand/source for an infrared thermometer?  Flukes are
available for around $100 but I seem to remember a discussion 
about cheaper

ones that also worked well.
Thanks,
Gerry

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Re: [MBZ] Dang. It was one of the 'good' fuses.

2009-08-14 Thread tyler
I've been known to replace them with a strip of aluminum foil in an 
"emergency." The strip needs to be wider to blow at the same level of 
current draw, since the foil is so thin. Even better is just taking a 
handful of spares from a junkyard.


I like to coat the ends in di-electric grease, which seems to eliminate 
corrosion issues permanently.


Tyler

archer wrote:
Since the porcelain bodies of the fuse are still good, it would seem 
that the fusible metal strips would be available someplace without 
buying the whole fuse?


P.S. What's a brand/source for an infrared thermometer?  Flukes are 
available for around $100 but I seem to remember a discussion about 
cheaper ones that also worked well.

Thanks,
Gerry


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Re: [MBZ] Dang. It was one of the 'good' fuses.

2009-08-14 Thread Jim Cathey
Since the porcelain bodies of the fuse are still good, it would seem 
that the fusible metal strips would be available someplace without 
buying the whole fuse?


No.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Dang. It was one of the 'good' fuses.

2009-08-14 Thread archer


He discovered it was a fuse that had corroded most of the contact point, 
so it still showed continuity and power on testing, but being a 30 amp 
with all the turn signals, gauges and brakes on it the bad spots stopped 
enough of the power that they didn't work, though it tested good.
--- 

In such cases I like to use a Dremel wire brush to clean
up the contacts in the fuse block too.
-- Jim

---
Since the porcelain bodies of the fuse are still good, it would seem that 
the fusible metal strips would be available someplace without buying the 
whole fuse?


P.S. What's a brand/source for an infrared thermometer?  Flukes are 
available for around $100 but I seem to remember a discussion about cheaper 
ones that also worked well.

Thanks,
Gerry 



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Re: [MBZ] Dang. It was one of the 'good' fuses.

2009-08-14 Thread Mitch Haley

Mitch Haley wrote:

Jim Cathey wrote:


In such cases I like to use a Dremel wire brush to clean
up the contacts in the fuse block too.


A wire brush on a bench grinder allows you to clean 50 of them in a few 
minutes.


The bench grinder was for wholesale cleaning of fuses. (which might be safer to 
replace). I didn't catch that JC was talking about the fuse holders at first.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Dang. It was one of the 'good' fuses.

2009-08-14 Thread Mitch Haley

Jim Cathey wrote:


In such cases I like to use a Dremel wire brush to clean
up the contacts in the fuse block too.


A wire brush on a bench grinder allows you to clean 50 of them in a few minutes.

When testing, sometimes it's better to voltmeter across the terminals. If you 
get more than a tenth of a volt, something's wrong.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Dang. It was one of the 'good' fuses.

2009-08-14 Thread Jim Cathey

He discovered it was a fuse that had corroded most of the contact
point, so it still showed continuity and power on testing, but being a 
30
amp with all the turn signals, gauges and brakes on it the bad spots 
stopped

enough of the power that they didn't work, though it tested good.


In such cases I like to use a Dremel wire brush to clean
up the contacts in the fuse block too.

-- Jim



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