Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-05 Thread Randy Bennell

On 04/12/2011 2:47 PM, Fmiser wrote:

Dan Penoff wrote:
My last house (4500 sf) had a 400 amp service, for what I
don't know.

Theater lights?

A really, really big welder?

--   Philip




Grow Op??

Randy

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-05 Thread Randy Bennell

On 03/12/2011 7:10 PM, Craig wrote:

On Sat, 3 Dec 2011 18:57:22 -0600 Fmiserfmi...@gmail.com  wrote:


Scott and Gwen Ritchey wrote:
A 200 amp service entrance is pretty-much standard so that's
probably what you have.

Standard as of when?   Not everyone lives in a15 year old house.

--   Philip, in a house that was old when it was electrified.

Our house was built in 1959 with a 60 Amp service. We upgraged it this
summer to 200 Amps.


Craig

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-05 Thread Randy Bennell

On 03/12/2011 6:57 PM, Fmiser wrote:

Scott and Gwen Ritchey wrote:
A 200 amp service entrance is pretty-much standard so that's
probably what you have.

Standard as of when?   Not everyone lives in a15 year old house.

--   Philip, in a house that was old when it was electrified.

___

My house was built in 1981. It had 100Amp but it also has underground 
wiring to the transformer and I believe we were told that all of the 
underground wiring here is good for 200Amp. I guess we will find out as 
I think we need to bite the bullet and get it done come summer.


Randy

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-05 Thread Dan Penoff
Hmm. Hadn't thought about that one...

Dan

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 5, 2011, at 12:22 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:

 On 04/12/2011 2:47 PM, Fmiser wrote:
 Dan Penoff wrote:
 My last house (4500 sf) had a 400 amp service, for what I
 don't know.
 Theater lights?
 
 A really, really big welder?
 
 --   Philip
 
 
 
 Grow Op??
 
 Randy
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-05 Thread MG
And one can run chilled water through copper lines (slightly 
larger) just as easy as freon but with a lot less loss due to gas 
leaks. That's why I don't like using freon as a distribution 
medium. Look at any specification for a central AC system and you 
will see a specified loss of freon of as much as 1/4 oz. or more 
per year. The more the connections the more loss will occur. With 
water there is no such loss as water will not be in a gaseous 
state while in this use nor under anywhere near the same 
pressures. Ducts don't come into it at all in either scenario.


Manfred

Date: Sun, 04 Dec 2011 18:50:57 -0500
From: Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu
Subject: Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

MG trainpain2...@yahoo.com writes:

 still don't like the freon circulation.

Why not?  A heck of a lot easier to snake copper tubing through 
existing

construction than to install ductwork.

Allan

--
1983 300D
1979 300SD

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-05 Thread Dan Penoff
I work in an office that is part of a data center (our cubicles are part of an 
old tape library vault) that is covered by a gas discharge fire protection 
system.

It was Halon at one time, but I believe it is now charged with CO2 or some 
other inert gas that is not a fluorocarbon.

I walk by the big tank all the time - I'll look at it tomorrow and report back 
what sort of agent is in it.

Dan

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 4, 2011, at 10:34 PM, Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net wrote:

 Haylon.  We still have a system like that at work for some reason (the 
 current excuse is that there is an I/O board in there for a current loop 
 system) left over from the days when a VAX lived in there.
 
 We are required to evacuate the building if it ever goes off, Halon is a 
 chloro-fluorcarbon of some sort, and once you breath it in, it's very 
 difficult to get it back out of your lungs -- very dense.  NASCAR and Indycar 
 racing had a couple fatalities with it in the 60's or early 70's and quit 
 using it in race cars -- tended to extinguish the driver along with a fire.
 
 Pretty funny that most smartphones have an order of magnitude better 
 processor performance than a DEC VAX.
 
 Peter
 
 On Dec 4, 2011, at 9:20 PM, Rich Thomas wrote:
 
 I worked in an office once where the middle of the space was a raised floor 
 glassed-in room with a bunch of PDPs and VAxs in it.  One day someone 
 tripped the fire suppressant (I forget what it was called, some kind of 
 freon) and it took about 30sec to completely blow down, alarms going off, 
 etc.  It cost a fair amount to replace it all.  No one died but I think the 
 guy who tripped it wished he were dead.
 
 --R
 
 On 12/4/11 7:09 PM, Walt Zarnoch wrote:
 Newer refrigerants are quite inert, so explosion/fire issues aren't that
 big.
 The worst problem I can foresee would be if a unit vented the entire charge
 in a closed room, in which case you would have oxygen displacement.
 
 Walt
 On Dec 4, 2011 6:51 PM, Allan Streibstr...@cs.indiana.edu  wrote:
 
 MGtrainpain2...@yahoo.com  writes:
 
 still don't like the freon circulation.
 Why not?  A heck of a lot easier to snake copper tubing through existing
 construction than to install ductwork.
 
 Allan
 
 --
 1983 300D
 1979 300SD
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-04 Thread Dan Penoff
My last house (4500 sf) had a 400 amp service, for what I don't know.

Didn't have electric heat, had forced air, and only one AC unit.

Dan

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 3, 2011, at 8:10 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

 On Sat, 3 Dec 2011 18:57:22 -0600 Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Scott and Gwen Ritchey wrote:
 
 A 200 amp service entrance is pretty-much standard so that's
 probably what you have.
 
 Standard as of when?   Not everyone lives in a 15 year old house.
 
 --   Philip, in a house that was old when it was electrified.
 
 Our house was built in 1959 with a 60 Amp service. We upgraged it this
 summer to 200 Amps.
 
 
 Craig
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-04 Thread MG
Yes, I think those are the ones I looked at. The only problem 
with them is that for the size I need it would not split to 
enough cooling points inside. If I remember two smaller units 
would also not split enough, can't really remember now. Then 
there was also the problem that I did want to use geothermal 
cooling which was and as far as I know still is not available in 
those type of units.


The other down side of those units is they pump freon around 
rather then chilled water. With the water units the individual 
cooling units can be over-sized due to the self throttling of the 
water flow. That way a smaller chiller can be used since not all 
the units will be going full out at any one time and probably not 
at any time due to the shape of and insulation in my house 
(dome). In the winter any heating needed can also be done using 
the same system. It would also be a lot easier to make changes in 
the system to see what might be a better location of cooling 
units. Yeah I do like to experiment and see 'what if'.


Manfred

Date: Sat, 03 Dec 2011 22:02:56 -0500
From: Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu
Subject: Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

There is a system called a mini-split or multi-split that sounds like
what you are describing.  It doesnt work with your radiators but 
it's an

installed outdoor unit connected to one or more interior units.  I
believe they can work in AC and/or heating modes.

Allan

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-04 Thread Rich Thomas
I am going to put a mini-split heat pump system in my addition, 4 
9+9+12+12 kBTU head units, the outside unit is 36k and it can throttle 
down pretty low.  I gotta order the lines and cabling soon to get it in 
the walls.  My calculations show the whole thing needing only 18k to 
heat/cool it, so this should be enough to add a bit to the rest of the 
house when it is cranking.   These things are pretty efficient and easy 
to install in new work, and even in existing houses if you can easily 
route the lines from outside or a basement or something.


--R

On 12/4/11 11:27 AM, MG wrote:
Yes, I think those are the ones I looked at. The only problem with 
them is that for the size I need it would not split to enough cooling 
points inside. If I remember two smaller units would also not split 
enough, can't really remember now. Then there was also the problem 
that I did want to use geothermal cooling which was and as far as I 
know still is not available in those type of units.


The other down side of those units is they pump freon around rather 
then chilled water. With the water units the individual cooling units 
can be over-sized due to the self throttling of the water flow. That 
way a smaller chiller can be used since not all the units will be 
going full out at any one time and probably not at any time due to the 
shape of and insulation in my house (dome). In the winter any heating 
needed can also be done using the same system. It would also be a lot 
easier to make changes in the system to see what might be a better 
location of cooling units. Yeah I do like to experiment and see 'what 
if'.


Manfred

Date: Sat, 03 Dec 2011 22:02:56 -0500
From: Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu
Subject: Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

There is a system called a mini-split or multi-split that sounds like
what you are describing.  It doesnt work with your radiators but it's an
installed outdoor unit connected to one or more interior units.  I
believe they can work in AC and/or heating modes.

Allan

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-04 Thread Fmiser
 Dan Penoff wrote:

 My last house (4500 sf) had a 400 amp service, for what I
 don't know.

Theater lights?

A really, really big welder?

--   Philip

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-04 Thread Dieselhead
A 400 amp service was/is the trendy thing in mcMansions.  they get 
lots of breaker spaces for all the circuits that are supposed to be 
on a dedicated circuit. Stove, dryer, MW, DW, A/C 1, A/c2, A/C 3, 
entertainment center 1, 2 and 3. swimming pool equipment, hot tub, 
water heaters 1, 2 and 3, Garage door openers 1,2 and 3, then add on 
whatever is the latest thing.  I count 29 breaker spaces just for the 
stuff I mentioned.  Then there are lights and outlets.


I wonder what the service entrances look like in albore's mansion. 
at 20,000 dollars a month, that is a lot of amps.



  Dan Penoff wrote:


 My last house (4500 sf) had a 400 amp service, for what I
 don't know.


Theater lights?

A really, really big welder?

--   Philip


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-04 Thread Gerry Archer


- Original Message - 
From: Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, December 04, 2011 3:47 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT



Dan Penoff wrote:



My last house (4500 sf) had a 400 amp service, for what I
don't know.


Theater lights?


Grow house?
Gerry


A really, really big welder?

--   Philip

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1411 / Virus Database: 2102/4056 - Release Date: 12/04/11



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-04 Thread Rich Thomas
Apparently that is the standard now for big houses as they tend to have 
2-200A panels for all the stuff in them.  Interesting you had that 
service -- did you also have 2 panels+main breakers?


--R

On 12/4/11 3:47 PM, Fmiser wrote:

Dan Penoff wrote:
My last house (4500 sf) had a 400 amp service, for what I
don't know.

Theater lights?

A really, really big welder?

--   Philip

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-04 Thread MG
Yup. That's what I remember. I was thinking that because of the 
size of the rooms and open areas I would need to get two of those 
units and then I would be at 3 tons over the amount of cooling 
needed. If there was one unit that could split into 8 that would 
work but still don't like the freon circulation.


Manfred

Date: Sun, 04 Dec 2011 11:42:44 -0500
From: Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net
Subject: Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT


I am going to put a mini-split heat pump system in my addition, 4
9+9+12+12 kBTU head units, the outside unit is 36k and it can 
throttle
down pretty low.  I gotta order the lines and cabling soon to get 
it in

the walls.  My calculations show the whole thing needing only 18k to
heat/cool it, so this should be enough to add a bit to the rest 
of the
house when it is cranking.   These things are pretty efficient 
and easy

to install in new work, and even in existing houses if you can easily
route the lines from outside or a basement or something.

--R

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-04 Thread Allan Streib
MG trainpain2...@yahoo.com writes:

 still don't like the freon circulation.

Why not?  A heck of a lot easier to snake copper tubing through existing
construction than to install ductwork.

Allan

-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-04 Thread Walt Zarnoch
Newer refrigerants are quite inert, so explosion/fire issues aren't that
big.
The worst problem I can foresee would be if a unit vented the entire charge
in a closed room, in which case you would have oxygen displacement.

Walt
On Dec 4, 2011 6:51 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

 MG trainpain2...@yahoo.com writes:

  still don't like the freon circulation.

 Why not?  A heck of a lot easier to snake copper tubing through existing
 construction than to install ductwork.

 Allan

 --
 1983 300D
 1979 300SD

 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-04 Thread Rich Thomas
I worked in an office once where the middle of the space was a raised 
floor glassed-in room with a bunch of PDPs and VAxs in it.  One day 
someone tripped the fire suppressant (I forget what it was called, some 
kind of freon) and it took about 30sec to completely blow down, alarms 
going off, etc.  It cost a fair amount to replace it all.  No one died 
but I think the guy who tripped it wished he were dead.


--R

On 12/4/11 7:09 PM, Walt Zarnoch wrote:

Newer refrigerants are quite inert, so explosion/fire issues aren't that
big.
The worst problem I can foresee would be if a unit vented the entire charge
in a closed room, in which case you would have oxygen displacement.

Walt
On Dec 4, 2011 6:51 PM, Allan Streibstr...@cs.indiana.edu  wrote:


MGtrainpain2...@yahoo.com  writes:


still don't like the freon circulation.

Why not?  A heck of a lot easier to snake copper tubing through existing
construction than to install ductwork.

Allan

--
1983 300D
1979 300SD

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-04 Thread Walt Zarnoch
Oooh, HALON!

Safer than CO2 at the recommended concentrations when used as a fire
suppressant, but bad for the ozone layer.
Also a #%^@ of a lot more expensive than CO2 setups, or extinguishers,
but won't harm equipment.

Walt

On Sun, Dec 4, 2011 at 10:20 PM, Rich Thomas
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:
 I worked in an office once where the middle of the space was a raised floor
 glassed-in room with a bunch of PDPs and VAxs in it.  One day someone
 tripped the fire suppressant (I forget what it was called, some kind of
 freon) and it took about 30sec to completely blow down, alarms going off,
 etc.  It cost a fair amount to replace it all.  No one died but I think the
 guy who tripped it wished he were dead.

 --R


 On 12/4/11 7:09 PM, Walt Zarnoch wrote:

 Newer refrigerants are quite inert, so explosion/fire issues aren't that
 big.
 The worst problem I can foresee would be if a unit vented the entire
 charge
 in a closed room, in which case you would have oxygen displacement.

 Walt
 On Dec 4, 2011 6:51 PM, Allan Streibstr...@cs.indiana.edu  wrote:

 MGtrainpain2...@yahoo.com  writes:

 still don't like the freon circulation.

 Why not?  A heck of a lot easier to snake copper tubing through existing
 construction than to install ductwork.

 Allan

 --
 1983 300D
 1979 300SD

 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-04 Thread Peter Frederick
Haylon.  We still have a system like that at work for some reason  
(the current excuse is that there is an I/O board in there for a  
current loop system) left over from the days when a VAX lived in there.


We are required to evacuate the building if it ever goes off, Halon  
is a chloro-fluorcarbon of some sort, and once you breath it in, it's  
very difficult to get it back out of your lungs -- very dense.   
NASCAR and Indycar racing had a couple fatalities with it in the 60's  
or early 70's and quit using it in race cars -- tended to extinguish  
the driver along with a fire.


Pretty funny that most smartphones have an order of magnitude better  
processor performance than a DEC VAX.


Peter

On Dec 4, 2011, at 9:20 PM, Rich Thomas wrote:

I worked in an office once where the middle of the space was a  
raised floor glassed-in room with a bunch of PDPs and VAxs in it.   
One day someone tripped the fire suppressant (I forget what it was  
called, some kind of freon) and it took about 30sec to completely  
blow down, alarms going off, etc.  It cost a fair amount to replace  
it all.  No one died but I think the guy who tripped it wished he  
were dead.


--R

On 12/4/11 7:09 PM, Walt Zarnoch wrote:
Newer refrigerants are quite inert, so explosion/fire issues  
aren't that

big.
The worst problem I can foresee would be if a unit vented the  
entire charge

in a closed room, in which case you would have oxygen displacement.

Walt
On Dec 4, 2011 6:51 PM, Allan Streibstr...@cs.indiana.edu  wrote:


MGtrainpain2...@yahoo.com  writes:


still don't like the freon circulation.
Why not?  A heck of a lot easier to snake copper tubing through  
existing

construction than to install ductwork.

Allan

--
1983 300D
1979 300SD

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-03 Thread Curt Raymond
I don't know anything about the specific product but I've never lived anywhere 
that didn't have oil heat which shared hw and heating duties...

Actually, thats only mostly true, my grandmother's house has scorched air. I'll 
do my dammedest never to live anywhere with forced hot air.

-Curt

Date: Fri, 2 Dec 2011 22:26:51 -0600
From: Mountain Man maontin@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT
Message-ID:
calk3cy5sm4jt-yqzrtnbvtnp_c7soqdn+vcshmmuvjmdeks...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Has anyone used the Amtrol BoilerMate heat exchanger for WH?
Not for forced air house heat.
For pumped hot water radiator house heat, a boiler zone is run to
BoilerMate which is a heat exchanger for HW.
Sounds reasonable, but... is it?
Any experience?
mao

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-03 Thread Jim Cathey
my grandmother's house has scorched air. I'll do my dammedest never to 
live anywhere with forced hot air.


I _love_ scorched air, esp. oil-heated scorched air.

-- Jim



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-03 Thread Randy Bennell
I had considered doing that. I think that code requires conduit or BX 
cable from the heater up into the ceiling joists (floor joists for the 
main floor too) but I have not done that yet either. I may put a switch 
in if I do that as I will be re-wiring that part of the system. I don't 
think we are required to have a switch near the tank but it would be 
handy. The panel is within sight of the tank as my basement is 
unfinished and open without any partition walls at this time.


I need to have the whole panel replaced with a bigger one and to move 
from 100 A to 200 A as I want more power in my garage too. Not going to 
attempt that by myself as it would need to be done fast and inspected 
and turned back on in one day. I might manage to do it in a week but not 
in a day by myself.


Randy

On 02/12/2011 4:57 PM, Rich Thomas wrote:
You can run a 30A breaker box off the main panel -- run it off the 40A 
breaker you have (with #8 wire) then wire the WH right to the 30A-out 
in the box.  Don't know about where you live, but code here requires a 
cutoff at the water heater electrical connection, so a small breaker 
box would do that well (as would just a big throw switch, but since 
you have the breaker issue...).  The idea is that you can actually see 
the power is off before you fool with the heater.


I had to replace my water heater right after I got hit by the truck 
while riding my bike.  The thing died Sat night, after my ride Sunday 
morning I was going to Lowes to get a new one and put it in that 
afternoon.  So instead I come home hurting like hell, to take a cold 
shower, ugh.  I rested up the rest of the day and went and got the 
thing Mon morning after the doctor visit (and another cold shower), 
still hurting bad despite the drugs.  Then the door in the closet was 
too small for the new higher-insulated unit to fit, so I had to tear 
out the door/framing to get a new door, reframe it all, put in the new 
door and trim  Ended up being a 2-day job, Not Fun but the nice 
hot shower was very nice.


--R

On 12/2/11 5:35 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:
The wire issue was something I stewed about for a bit. I have an 
oddball panel in the house. GE. So, it is somewhat difficult to come 
up with breakers. I had a spare set of 40 amp but not 25 or 30 which 
is what was called for. I thought I might just up the wire to #8 
instead of #10 but that makes it much more difficult to work with. So 
after a bit of mucking about, an idea dawned on me. I just used the # 
10 and borrowed the breakers for the AC as I will not need it in the 
near future. Long before spring I can get another pair of breakers. 
Menards in Grand Forks has them and I can get a set soon. 


___



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-03 Thread Randy Bennell
Thanks Wilton. I actually enjoy things like that. Don't know that I want 
to do it every day but I do enjoy the challenge of doing things like 
this and believe that at the end of the day, I generally do them better 
than the trades folk just because I can take the time to do it my way 
and not have to cut corners to make money.


Randy

On 02/12/2011 5:46 PM, WILTON wrote:

ATTABOY!

Wilton

- Original Message - From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, December 02, 2011 5:35 PM
Subject: [MBZ] More OT - HWT



How can you tell it is Friday afternoon?

I had a fun week. Monday about 6 PM we discovered our hot water tank 
had sprung a leak. No flood as it is in the basement and on a 
concrete floor about 2 feet from the sump pump pit.

However, it was leaking quite badly so it had to be fixed.
My wife and I went out Monday evening looking at new tanks but did 
not get one. We went to 3 places. The first did not have the one I 
wanted in stock. The 2nd did not appear to have what I wanted and by 
the time we got to the 3rd place, they were more interested in 
closing than selling.
So, I went back Tuesday morning and got a tank and some of the other 
odds and ends needed to swap.


We changed from a 40 US Gallon gas fired tank to a 60 Imp gallon 
electric tank. The major reason to change was the idea that we will 
put in a new efficient furnace in the near future and disposing of 
the gas HWT will permit us to also remove the chimney (gas vent) so 
the house should be tighter etc.


However that sort of thing comes with a cost. I had to cap off the 
gas and the vent from the HWT to the main vent that the furnace uses. 
Just replaced the pipe where it had been attached rather than 
patching it.
Since the new tank is physically larger - electric does not recycle 
quite as fast so bigger is needed to maintain the hot water capacity 
- the plumbing had to be moved etc.


These things are bulky and heavy so it is not an easy job to do. I 
got the old one loose, the gas capped and the vent changed on Tuesday 
afternoon as well as running out to get more supplies. My younger son 
came by on his way home from work and we carried the old one out and 
the new one in. Not easy to set into the hole behind the furnace as 
the water meter and the laundry tub make for a small opening. Got it 
in without hurting ourselves. Empty it weighs about 185# according to 
the box. I figure at 61.5 imperial gallons it must weigh about 800# 
full of water.


Wednesday, I worked on the plumbing. Changed over the water feed line 
as the new one fills at the bottom and the old one filled from the 
top. Also pulled the drain valve and installed a stub and a T etc and 
more valves and a check valve as I intend to hook up a thermal siphon 
to provide faster hot water in the 2nd floor bath.  Also ran out to 
get wire etc to feed from the panel over to the tank. That is another 
story that I will touch on in a minute.


Did not get the plumbing finished until about 9:30 Wednesday night. 
Then did the wiring and finally finished up about 11:30 Wednesday 
night. Let me tell you I am more used to sitting in a chair all day 
than working like this. I was dead tired and then stiff and sore 
yesterday. Today is better.


The wire issue was something I stewed about for a bit. I have an 
oddball panel in the house. GE. So, it is somewhat difficult to come 
up with breakers. I had a spare set of 40 amp but not 25 or 30 which 
is what was called for. I thought I might just up the wire to #8 
instead of #10 but that makes it much more difficult to work with. So 
after a bit of mucking about, an idea dawned on me. I just used the # 
10 and borrowed the breakers for the AC as I will not need it in the 
near future. Long before spring I can get another pair of breakers. 
Menards in Grand Forks has them and I can get a set soon.


My wife wonders why I do things like this myself instead of just 
calling someone in to do it. I might have done so if it meant just 
swapping a similar tank as that would have been fast and easy. If I 
have to stand there and watch the tradesman, I might as well be doing 
it. Besides, I do a better job as I care about my house.


Randy






___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-03 Thread Randy Bennell

On 03/12/2011 9:08 AM, Jim Cathey wrote:
my grandmother's house has scorched air. I'll do my dammedest never 
to live anywhere with forced hot air.


I _love_ scorched air, esp. oil-heated scorched air.

-- Jim



___
The advantage as I see it to forced air heat, is the ducts also work for 
the cooled air come summer. I know folks with hot water heat and they 
have no reasonable means of installing AC except for the noisy window units.


Randy

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-03 Thread Rich Thomas
I suggest you install a 200A main breaker between the meter and the 
panel, these usually are placed outside next to the meter.  There are 
meter/breaker panels too but for some reason are more expensive.  I 
presume the power line coming into your house (meter) is sufficient to 
handle 200A?  With the main breaker, you can shut off the power to the 
existing panel, pop in another one, and put in your breakers and run 
your circuits to them.  It can actually go pretty quickly if you have 
the ahead stuff organized -- have the power company come and pop the 
meter (or maybe an electrician can do that?) or shut off the power at 
the pole, put in/wire your main breaker next to the meter, then 
reconnect your panel line to the main breaker, put the meter back in, 
and you are good to go.  That shouldn't take very long or cost too 
much.  The concern is that your cables from the breaker to your panel 
are rated for 200A, you will probably need to get that in place before 
doing anything else.


You can then take your time by just connecting up the circuits you need 
first (fridge, heater, GP circuits, whatever) then do the others as you 
have time (soon!).  I would also suggest adding a second main breaker 
for your garage, and running to a new panel in the garage, say 100A or 
whatever you think you need.  You might need to upgrade the lines coming 
in for that.  Or you can just run 60A or so off your new 200A panel to 
the garage and put a subpanel out there with some breakers for various 
circuits.  Sometimes running big cable off an existing panel is harder 
than running it around the house or burying it from an outside breaker.


I am wiring up my addition now, have put in a new meter panel (supplied 
by the electric co-op), 2-200A main breakers outside next to it (one has 
a bunch of circuit breakers too, for any outside circuits I might want 
to add), one 200A panel in the addition with all new circuits, and a 
line to the existing panel which I will reconnect off the temp 
pole/meter/breaker I set up when I had to move the buried line.  Once I 
free up some circuits on the existing panel I might redirect those to 
the garage too as I only have a couple of circuits out there, and they 
are insufficient.


It is all pretty straightforward and can be done pretty quickly, and 
here the homeowner can do it if you pull the permit and then get the 
inspector to approve.  I have my rough inspection (the inspector took 
about 2 min looking at my work and signed off, saying, You did a nice 
job!) and will start hooking stuff up soon.


Copper is expensive now!!!

This reminds me I need to go get my plumbing stuff...

--R

On 12/3/11 12:13 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:
I had considered doing that. I think that code requires conduit or BX 
cable from the heater up into the ceiling joists (floor joists for the 
main floor too) but I have not done that yet either. I may put a 
switch in if I do that as I will be re-wiring that part of the system. 
I don't think we are required to have a switch near the tank but it 
would be handy. The panel is within sight of the tank as my basement 
is unfinished and open without any partition walls at this time.


I need to have the whole panel replaced with a bigger one and to move 
from 100 A to 200 A as I want more power in my garage too. Not going 
to attempt that by myself as it would need to be done fast and 
inspected and turned back on in one day. I might manage to do it in a 
week but not in a day by myself.


Randy

On 02/12/2011 4:57 PM, Rich Thomas wrote:
You can run a 30A breaker box off the main panel -- run it off the 
40A breaker you have (with #8 wire) then wire the WH right to the 
30A-out in the box.  Don't know about where you live, but code here 
requires a cutoff at the water heater electrical connection, so a 
small breaker box would do that well (as would just a big throw 
switch, but since you have the breaker issue...).  The idea is that 
you can actually see the power is off before you fool with the heater.


I had to replace my water heater right after I got hit by the truck 
while riding my bike.  The thing died Sat night, after my ride Sunday 
morning I was going to Lowes to get a new one and put it in that 
afternoon.  So instead I come home hurting like hell, to take a cold 
shower, ugh.  I rested up the rest of the day and went and got the 
thing Mon morning after the doctor visit (and another cold shower), 
still hurting bad despite the drugs.  Then the door in the closet was 
too small for the new higher-insulated unit to fit, so I had to tear 
out the door/framing to get a new door, reframe it all, put in the 
new door and trim  Ended up being a 2-day job, Not Fun but the 
nice hot shower was very nice.


--R

On 12/2/11 5:35 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:
The wire issue was something I stewed about for a bit. I have an 
oddball panel in the house. GE. So, it is somewhat difficult to come 
up with breakers. I had a spare set of 40 amp but not 25 or 30 

Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-03 Thread WILTON

'Zackly!

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, December 03, 2011 12:15 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT


Thanks Wilton. I actually enjoy things like that. Don't know that I want 
to do it every day but I do enjoy the challenge of doing things like 
this and believe that at the end of the day, I generally do them better 
than the trades folk just because I can take the time to do it my way 
and not have to cut corners to make money.


Randy

On 02/12/2011 5:46 PM, WILTON wrote:

ATTABOY!

Wilton

- Original Message - From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, December 02, 2011 5:35 PM
Subject: [MBZ] More OT - HWT



How can you tell it is Friday afternoon?

I had a fun week. Monday about 6 PM we discovered our hot water tank 
had sprung a leak. No flood as it is in the basement and on a 
concrete floor about 2 feet from the sump pump pit.

However, it was leaking quite badly so it had to be fixed.
My wife and I went out Monday evening looking at new tanks but did 
not get one. We went to 3 places. The first did not have the one I 
wanted in stock. The 2nd did not appear to have what I wanted and by 
the time we got to the 3rd place, they were more interested in 
closing than selling.
So, I went back Tuesday morning and got a tank and some of the other 
odds and ends needed to swap.


We changed from a 40 US Gallon gas fired tank to a 60 Imp gallon 
electric tank. The major reason to change was the idea that we will 
put in a new efficient furnace in the near future and disposing of 
the gas HWT will permit us to also remove the chimney (gas vent) so 
the house should be tighter etc.


However that sort of thing comes with a cost. I had to cap off the 
gas and the vent from the HWT to the main vent that the furnace uses. 
Just replaced the pipe where it had been attached rather than 
patching it.
Since the new tank is physically larger - electric does not recycle 
quite as fast so bigger is needed to maintain the hot water capacity 
- the plumbing had to be moved etc.


These things are bulky and heavy so it is not an easy job to do. I 
got the old one loose, the gas capped and the vent changed on Tuesday 
afternoon as well as running out to get more supplies. My younger son 
came by on his way home from work and we carried the old one out and 
the new one in. Not easy to set into the hole behind the furnace as 
the water meter and the laundry tub make for a small opening. Got it 
in without hurting ourselves. Empty it weighs about 185# according to 
the box. I figure at 61.5 imperial gallons it must weigh about 800# 
full of water.


Wednesday, I worked on the plumbing. Changed over the water feed line 
as the new one fills at the bottom and the old one filled from the 
top. Also pulled the drain valve and installed a stub and a T etc and 
more valves and a check valve as I intend to hook up a thermal siphon 
to provide faster hot water in the 2nd floor bath.  Also ran out to 
get wire etc to feed from the panel over to the tank. That is another 
story that I will touch on in a minute.


Did not get the plumbing finished until about 9:30 Wednesday night. 
Then did the wiring and finally finished up about 11:30 Wednesday 
night. Let me tell you I am more used to sitting in a chair all day 
than working like this. I was dead tired and then stiff and sore 
yesterday. Today is better.


The wire issue was something I stewed about for a bit. I have an 
oddball panel in the house. GE. So, it is somewhat difficult to come 
up with breakers. I had a spare set of 40 amp but not 25 or 30 which 
is what was called for. I thought I might just up the wire to #8 
instead of #10 but that makes it much more difficult to work with. So 
after a bit of mucking about, an idea dawned on me. I just used the # 
10 and borrowed the breakers for the AC as I will not need it in the 
near future. Long before spring I can get another pair of breakers. 
Menards in Grand Forks has them and I can get a set soon.


My wife wonders why I do things like this myself instead of just 
calling someone in to do it. I might have done so if it meant just 
swapping a similar tank as that would have been fast and easy. If I 
have to stand there and watch the tradesman, I might as well be doing 
it. Besides, I do a better job as I care about my house.


Randy






___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http

Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-03 Thread WILTON
I have gas-fired circulating hot water heat to convectors beneath each 
window and three heat pumps, one for first floor, one for each half of 
second floor.  AC was first installed in the house in '64; ductwork already 
in  place when I installed heat pumps 'bout 10 years ago.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, December 03, 2011 12:19 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT



On 03/12/2011 9:08 AM, Jim Cathey wrote:
my grandmother's house has scorched air. I'll do my dammedest never to 
live anywhere with forced hot air.


I _love_ scorched air, esp. oil-heated scorched air.

-- Jim



___
The advantage as I see it to forced air heat, is the ducts also work for 
the cooled air come summer. I know folks with hot water heat and they have 
no reasonable means of installing AC except for the noisy window units.


Randy

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com 



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-03 Thread Randy Bennell

Thanks for your input. I like some of your ideas.

I have wondered about putting in a main breaker and then some form of 
splitter box and running a couple of 100A panels off of it.  That way, I 
could just leave my original panel in place and add another.


I think the underground wire from the transformer at the lane to the 
meter socket is good for the 200A setup. I think even my existing meter 
socket is ok for 200A. We will have to verify that but I believe I was 
told that by some fellows who work for Hydro who came to the house a 
couple of years back to inspect when we had some repairs done to the 
basement wall on the side where the panel and gas meter are located.


We are permitted to do our own electrical work here as well. Either the 
homeowner or a licenced electrician can pull a permit. My younger son 
has a friend who is almost finished his apprenticeship as an electrician 
and my elder son's girlfriend's father and brother are electricians so I 
have some folks I can seek opinions from at least.


I have also found the elecrical inspector to be a useful resource but 
right now I would be reluctant to let them see my panel. I have the 
cover off and wires hanging out all over. That could be fixed I guess 
but I prefer to leave it alone until we do the upgrade if possible. I 
would just have to remove and label the unused wires.


What has happened is that since I have run out of breaker spots, I have 
disconnected things not being used to provide spots for things we need. 
For example, when we added on to the house a number of years back, we 
put in 5 electric baseboard heaters in the addition on the main floor. 
We have never used them and I have disconnected the wiring in th panel 
and used the breakers for other purposes. I have not pulled the wires 
totally out of the panel so they are bent back away from the open part 
but that means I cannot put the cover on unless I remove them totally. 
There is no space in the panel to push the wires in easily.


I also have a 2nd kitchen stove in the basement. When we got a new 
convection oven stove a few years back, our existing stove was good and 
worth nothing to sell so I put it in the basement and we have used it at 
Christmas time when we are cooking a lot of stuff at once. 
Unfortunately, I am planning to disconnect it for now in order to make 
space to install the breakers for the HWT that I just put in. I won't 
have to do that for a bit if I don't want to as I can leave the HWT on 
the breakers for the AC until spring but sooner or later it will need to 
be done unless we upgrade the panel before then and I will most likely 
wait until at least warmer weather before embarking on this endeavor.


My garage is currently fed from the panel in the house via underground 
wire and a subpanel in the garage. It is only about 50 feet from the 
house so not too bad. It currently has 10/3 running out to the garage so 
30A at 220V but that is not really sufficient. I can run the compressor 
or the welders or the planer, or some electric heat, but only one at a 
time. The compressor and welders are pushing the limits.


I bought a big long chunk of Teck cable a couple of years back with the 
intention to use it to feed the garage but have not dug it in yet as 
there is little point until the panel in the house is bumped to 200A.
I cannot recall what the Teck is at the moment but it will be at least 
#6 and maybe bigger than that. I also think it is 4 wire but I could be 
wrong. It was used cable that was removed form a commercial building 
that was being remodelled. It looks like new and I assume it had not 
been there for very long before it got removed. I have no where to 
connect to at the moment. I already have 2 sub panels and all of the 
original panel filled with 30A or 40A breakers so I am sort of pushing 
my limits. The one sub panel is only 8 breakers so I could put in a 
bigger one and both of the subs are fed by 40A breakers so I could 
switch to #6 and 50A breakers but sooner or later I am going to push too 
far.


Time to upgrade!

Randy

On 03/12/2011 11:43 AM, Rich Thomas wrote:
I suggest you install a 200A main breaker between the meter and the 
panel, these usually are placed outside next to the meter.  There are 
meter/breaker panels too but for some reason are more expensive.  I 
presume the power line coming into your house (meter) is sufficient to 
handle 200A?  With the main breaker, you can shut off the power to the 
existing panel, pop in another one, and put in your breakers and run 
your circuits to them.  It can actually go pretty quickly if you have 
the ahead stuff organized -- have the power company come and pop the 
meter (or maybe an electrician can do that?) or shut off the power at 
the pole, put in/wire your main breaker next to the meter, then 
reconnect your panel line to the main breaker, put the meter back in, 
and you are good to go.  That shouldn't take very long or cost too 
much.  The concern is that 

Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-03 Thread Randy Bennell
I was seriously interested in ground source heat pumps but 
unfortunately, I don't really have enough land to do it easily. They 
need to be able to drill about 40 to 50 holes about 10 feet apart on a 
grid unless they drill fewer holes much deeper. Deeper becomes more 
expensive and I really don't have a space big enough to drill that many 
holes. It would cost $20K or better to install but the cost of operation 
would be almost nil. Generally just the electricity to run the pumps and 
fans except perhaps in the coldest weather when electric backup might be 
required.


If I were going to build a new home, I would certainly want that system.

Randy

On 03/12/2011 12:58 PM, WILTON wrote:
I have gas-fired circulating hot water heat to convectors beneath each 
window and three heat pumps, one for first floor, one for each half of 
second floor.  AC was first installed in the house in '64; ductwork 
already in  place when I installed heat pumps 'bout 10 years ago.


Wilton

- Original Message - From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca



On 03/12/2011 9:08 AM, Jim Cathey wrote:
my grandmother's house has scorched air. I'll do my dammedest never 
to live anywhere with forced hot air.


I _love_ scorched air, esp. oil-heated scorched air.

-- Jim



___
The advantage as I see it to forced air heat, is the ducts also work 
for the cooled air come summer. I know folks with hot water heat and 
they have no reasonable means of installing AC except for the noisy 
window units.


Randy




___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-03 Thread WILTON
I'm very fond of ground source heat/cooling systems, too.  Better to 
transfer heat from/to constant (or nearly so) ground or water than air 
that's often too hot or too cold.  BTW, what's the constant ground (below 
frost line) temp there, 'bout 55F?


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, December 03, 2011 2:23 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT


I was seriously interested in ground source heat pumps but unfortunately, I 
don't really have enough land to do it easily. They need to be able to 
drill about 40 to 50 holes about 10 feet apart on a grid unless they drill 
fewer holes much deeper. Deeper becomes more expensive and I really don't 
have a space big enough to drill that many holes. It would cost $20K or 
better to install but the cost of operation would be almost nil. Generally 
just the electricity to run the pumps and fans except perhaps in the 
coldest weather when electric backup might be required.


If I were going to build a new home, I would certainly want that system.

Randy

On 03/12/2011 12:58 PM, WILTON wrote:
I have gas-fired circulating hot water heat to convectors beneath each 
window and three heat pumps, one for first floor, one for each half of 
second floor.  AC was first installed in the house in '64; ductwork 
already in  place when I installed heat pumps 'bout 10 years ago.


Wilton

- Original Message - From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca



On 03/12/2011 9:08 AM, Jim Cathey wrote:
my grandmother's house has scorched air. I'll do my dammedest never to 
live anywhere with forced hot air.


I _love_ scorched air, esp. oil-heated scorched air.

-- Jim



___
The advantage as I see it to forced air heat, is the ducts also work for 
the cooled air come summer. I know folks with hot water heat and they 
have no reasonable means of installing AC except for the noisy window 
units.


Randy




___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com 



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-03 Thread Scott and Gwen Ritchey
If you ever want a standby generator, subpanels are the way to go.  Put all
the critical stuff on one subpanel and then you can use an automatic
transfer switch for that panel.  The 100 amp transfer switches won't break
the bank (the 200 amp switches will).  

A 200 amp service entrance is pretty-much standard so that's probably what
you have.  The main panel should have the capacity marked.  

Scott

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Randy Bennell
Sent: Saturday, December 03, 2011 2:20 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

Thanks for your input. I like some of your ideas.

I have wondered about putting in a main breaker and then some form of 
splitter box and running a couple of 100A panels off of it.  That way, I 
could just leave my original panel in place and add another.

I think the underground wire from the transformer at the lane to the 
meter socket is good for the 200A setup. I think even my existing meter 
socket is ok for 200A. We will have to verify that but I believe I was 
told that by some fellows who work for Hydro who came to the house a 
couple of years back to inspect when we had some repairs done to the 
basement wall on the side where the panel and gas meter are located.

We are permitted to do our own electrical work here as well. Either the 
homeowner or a licenced electrician can pull a permit. My younger son 
has a friend who is almost finished his apprenticeship as an electrician 
and my elder son's girlfriend's father and brother are electricians so I 
have some folks I can seek opinions from at least.

I have also found the elecrical inspector to be a useful resource but 
right now I would be reluctant to let them see my panel. I have the 
cover off and wires hanging out all over. That could be fixed I guess 
but I prefer to leave it alone until we do the upgrade if possible. I 
would just have to remove and label the unused wires.

What has happened is that since I have run out of breaker spots, I have 
disconnected things not being used to provide spots for things we need. 
For example, when we added on to the house a number of years back, we 
put in 5 electric baseboard heaters in the addition on the main floor. 
We have never used them and I have disconnected the wiring in th panel 
and used the breakers for other purposes. I have not pulled the wires 
totally out of the panel so they are bent back away from the open part 
but that means I cannot put the cover on unless I remove them totally. 
There is no space in the panel to push the wires in easily.

I also have a 2nd kitchen stove in the basement. When we got a new 
convection oven stove a few years back, our existing stove was good and 
worth nothing to sell so I put it in the basement and we have used it at 
Christmas time when we are cooking a lot of stuff at once. 
Unfortunately, I am planning to disconnect it for now in order to make 
space to install the breakers for the HWT that I just put in. I won't 
have to do that for a bit if I don't want to as I can leave the HWT on 
the breakers for the AC until spring but sooner or later it will need to 
be done unless we upgrade the panel before then and I will most likely 
wait until at least warmer weather before embarking on this endeavor.

My garage is currently fed from the panel in the house via underground 
wire and a subpanel in the garage. It is only about 50 feet from the 
house so not too bad. It currently has 10/3 running out to the garage so 
30A at 220V but that is not really sufficient. I can run the compressor 
or the welders or the planer, or some electric heat, but only one at a 
time. The compressor and welders are pushing the limits.

I bought a big long chunk of Teck cable a couple of years back with the 
intention to use it to feed the garage but have not dug it in yet as 
there is little point until the panel in the house is bumped to 200A.
I cannot recall what the Teck is at the moment but it will be at least 
#6 and maybe bigger than that. I also think it is 4 wire but I could be 
wrong. It was used cable that was removed form a commercial building 
that was being remodelled. It looks like new and I assume it had not 
been there for very long before it got removed. I have no where to 
connect to at the moment. I already have 2 sub panels and all of the 
original panel filled with 30A or 40A breakers so I am sort of pushing 
my limits. The one sub panel is only 8 breakers so I could put in a 
bigger one and both of the subs are fed by 40A breakers so I could 
switch to #6 and 50A breakers but sooner or later I am going to push too 
far.

Time to upgrade!

Randy

On 03/12/2011 11:43 AM, Rich Thomas wrote:
 I suggest you install a 200A main breaker between the meter and the 
 panel, these usually are placed outside next to the meter.  There are 
 meter/breaker panels too but for some reason are more expensive.  I 
 presume the power line

Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-03 Thread Craig
On Sat, 3 Dec 2011 14:34:21 -0500 WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:

 I'm very fond of ground source heat/cooling systems, too.  Better to 
 transfer heat from/to constant (or nearly so) ground or water than air 
 that's often too hot or too cold.  BTW, what's the constant ground
 (below frost line) temp there, 'bout 55F?

I don't know what it is in Canada, but I recall it's about 43F in
Colorado.


Craig

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-03 Thread Rich Thomas
You can do that but you have to mind the cable sizes and have breakers 
in the panels so that you don't overload the cable from the main 
breaker.  You could feed 2-100A panels off a 200A main breaker, but each 
panel would need its own 100A breaker, sorta like feeding a 30A circuit 
off a 200A panel, you need that 30A breaker in there so it does not pull 
a full 200A.  You can get a thingie (not sure what it is called) that 
will screw onto the post off the load side of the 200A breaker, then 
turns into two holes to slide your two panel feed cables into.  Some 
breaker panels have those two connections provided,.  I got some of 
those adapters to put on the load terminals of the meter panel to feed 
my 2-200A panels.


Interesting, when I submitted my electrical plan, one of the guys in the 
inspection office said I had made an error.  A 400A meter is really a 
320A meter, so he was concerned that 2x200A breakers/panels would 
overload it.  Not so, as the 200A breakers are rated at 80% ( 160A) to 
trip, so that even if both breakers/panels were drawing full load they 
would trip at 160A, keeping them in the 320A meter limit.


Here are some pics:
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7InQXxhJqg8/TfKWVSMCJoI/AjU/YW1BCciTyIY/s1600/DSC_0365.jpg

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IpbfZVsaA5E/TfKWWOamvjI/AjY/GsZapWeaseM/s1600/DSC_0366.jpg

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BubiliYBoPU/TfKWWiaT2HI/Ajc/eZhdydDNCnk/s1600/DSC_0367.jpg

There are some interesting aspects to the electrical code once you dig 
into it, but most of it is pretty logical.  I am sure your code is 
similar to the US National Electrical Code (which most all jurisdictions 
adopt), I found some used books on Amazon for cheap that detail it all 
-- sorta NEC for Dummies but oriented to field electricians and 
training/reference.  Same for plumbing...


--R

On 12/3/11 2:19 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:
I have wondered about putting in a main breaker and then some form of 
splitter box and running a couple of 100A panels off of it.  That way, 
I could just leave my original panel in place and add another. 


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-03 Thread Allan Streib
Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca writes:

 The advantage as I see it to forced air heat, is the ducts also work
 for the cooled air come summer. I know folks with hot water heat and
 they have no reasonable means of installing AC except for the noisy
 window units.

If you have a one-story house, you can install insulated ducts in the
attic and have ceiling registers for the AC, which is ideal.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-03 Thread Fmiser
 Scott and Gwen Ritchey wrote:

 A 200 amp service entrance is pretty-much standard so that's
 probably what you have.

Standard as of when?   Not everyone lives in a 15 year old house.

--   Philip, in a house that was old when it was electrified.

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-03 Thread Craig
On Sat, 3 Dec 2011 18:57:22 -0600 Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:

  Scott and Gwen Ritchey wrote:
 
  A 200 amp service entrance is pretty-much standard so that's
  probably what you have.
 
 Standard as of when?   Not everyone lives in a 15 year old house.
 
 --   Philip, in a house that was old when it was electrified.

Our house was built in 1959 with a 60 Amp service. We upgraged it this
summer to 200 Amps.


Craig

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-03 Thread Curt Raymond
Our wall unit (a window type mounted in the wall) is mounted quite high in the 
wall of the living room and works very well. We have ceiling fans in every room 
which helps.

The apartment we lived in previously had a wall mount but it was right at the 
bottom of the wall in the living room and was a bastard. Had to put a fan in 
front of it set to blow air upward to get some circulation. No ceiling fans 
there though.

-Curt

Date: Sat, 03 Dec 2011 19:07:11 -0500
From: Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT
Message-ID: m17h2dqjww@cs.indiana.edu
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca writes:

 The advantage as I see it to forced air heat, is the ducts also work
 for the cooled air come summer. I know folks with hot water heat and
 they have no reasonable means of installing AC except for the noisy
 window units.

If you have a one-story house, you can install insulated ducts in the
attic and have ceiling registers for the AC, which is ideal.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-03 Thread MG
I remember researching a way to use chilled water circulating in 
a fan driven radiator system that would supply air conditioning 
to each room with individual thermostats in each room. Wish I 
could get a system like that put into my house but no AC company 
around here knows anything about it or is even willing to 
research it.


A system like that would easily lend itself to being put into an 
older house like that. I believe the University of Alabama used 
something like this in some of their old dorms quite a few years 
ago. For all I know it is still in place. I seem to recall that 
the fans were even driven by the water flowing through the pipes 
so as the thermostat set slowed the flow of water through the 
radiator in the room the fan also automatically ran slower.


Manfred

Date: Sat, 03 Dec 2011 11:19:11 -0600
From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
Subject: Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

 ___
The advantage as I see it to forced air heat, is the ducts also 
work for

the cooled air come summer. I know folks with hot water heat and they
have no reasonable means of installing AC except for the noisy 
window units.


Randy

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-03 Thread Allan Streib
MG trainpain2...@yahoo.com writes:

 I remember researching a way to use chilled water circulating in a fan
 driven radiator system that would supply air conditioning to each room
 with individual thermostats in each room. Wish I could get a system
 like that put into my house but no AC company around here knows
 anything about it or is even willing to research it.

There is a system called a mini-split or multi-split that sounds like
what you are describing.  It doesnt work with your radiators but it's an
installed outdoor unit connected to one or more interior units.  I
believe they can work in AC and/or heating modes.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-02 Thread Rich Thomas
You can run a 30A breaker box off the main panel -- run it off the 40A 
breaker you have (with #8 wire) then wire the WH right to the 30A-out in 
the box.  Don't know about where you live, but code here requires a 
cutoff at the water heater electrical connection, so a small breaker box 
would do that well (as would just a big throw switch, but since you have 
the breaker issue...).  The idea is that you can actually see the power 
is off before you fool with the heater.


I had to replace my water heater right after I got hit by the truck 
while riding my bike.  The thing died Sat night, after my ride Sunday 
morning I was going to Lowes to get a new one and put it in that 
afternoon.  So instead I come home hurting like hell, to take a cold 
shower, ugh.  I rested up the rest of the day and went and got the thing 
Mon morning after the doctor visit (and another cold shower), still 
hurting bad despite the drugs.  Then the door in the closet was too 
small for the new higher-insulated unit to fit, so I had to tear out the 
door/framing to get a new door, reframe it all, put in the new door and 
trim  Ended up being a 2-day job, Not Fun but the nice hot shower 
was very nice.


--R

On 12/2/11 5:35 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:
The wire issue was something I stewed about for a bit. I have an 
oddball panel in the house. GE. So, it is somewhat difficult to come 
up with breakers. I had a spare set of 40 amp but not 25 or 30 which 
is what was called for. I thought I might just up the wire to #8 
instead of #10 but that makes it much more difficult to work with. So 
after a bit of mucking about, an idea dawned on me. I just used the # 
10 and borrowed the breakers for the AC as I will not need it in the 
near future. Long before spring I can get another pair of breakers. 
Menards in Grand Forks has them and I can get a set soon. 


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-02 Thread WILTON

ATTABOY!

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, December 02, 2011 5:35 PM
Subject: [MBZ] More OT - HWT



How can you tell it is Friday afternoon?

I had a fun week. Monday about 6 PM we discovered our hot water tank had 
sprung a leak. No flood as it is in the basement and on a concrete floor 
about 2 feet from the sump pump pit.

However, it was leaking quite badly so it had to be fixed.
My wife and I went out Monday evening looking at new tanks but did not 
get one. We went to 3 places. The first did not have the one I wanted in 
stock. The 2nd did not appear to have what I wanted and by the time we 
got to the 3rd place, they were more interested in closing than selling.
So, I went back Tuesday morning and got a tank and some of the other 
odds and ends needed to swap.


We changed from a 40 US Gallon gas fired tank to a 60 Imp gallon 
electric tank. The major reason to change was the idea that we will put 
in a new efficient furnace in the near future and disposing of the gas 
HWT will permit us to also remove the chimney (gas vent) so the house 
should be tighter etc.


However that sort of thing comes with a cost. I had to cap off the gas 
and the vent from the HWT to the main vent that the furnace uses. Just 
replaced the pipe where it had been attached rather than patching it.
Since the new tank is physically larger - electric does not recycle 
quite as fast so bigger is needed to maintain the hot water capacity - 
the plumbing had to be moved etc.


These things are bulky and heavy so it is not an easy job to do. I got 
the old one loose, the gas capped and the vent changed on Tuesday 
afternoon as well as running out to get more supplies. My younger son 
came by on his way home from work and we carried the old one out and the 
new one in. Not easy to set into the hole behind the furnace as the 
water meter and the laundry tub make for a small opening. Got it in 
without hurting ourselves. Empty it weighs about 185# according to the 
box. I figure at 61.5 imperial gallons it must weigh about 800# full of 
water.


Wednesday, I worked on the plumbing. Changed over the water feed line as 
the new one fills at the bottom and the old one filled from the top. 
Also pulled the drain valve and installed a stub and a T etc and more 
valves and a check valve as I intend to hook up a thermal siphon to 
provide faster hot water in the 2nd floor bath.  Also ran out to get 
wire etc to feed from the panel over to the tank. That is another story 
that I will touch on in a minute.


Did not get the plumbing finished until about 9:30 Wednesday night. Then 
did the wiring and finally finished up about 11:30 Wednesday night. Let 
me tell you I am more used to sitting in a chair all day than working 
like this. I was dead tired and then stiff and sore yesterday. Today is 
better.


The wire issue was something I stewed about for a bit. I have an oddball 
panel in the house. GE. So, it is somewhat difficult to come up with 
breakers. I had a spare set of 40 amp but not 25 or 30 which is what was 
called for. I thought I might just up the wire to #8 instead of #10 but 
that makes it much more difficult to work with. So after a bit of 
mucking about, an idea dawned on me. I just used the # 10 and borrowed 
the breakers for the AC as I will not need it in the near future. Long 
before spring I can get another pair of breakers. Menards in Grand Forks 
has them and I can get a set soon.


My wife wonders why I do things like this myself instead of just calling 
someone in to do it. I might have done so if it meant just swapping a 
similar tank as that would have been fast and easy. If I have to stand 
there and watch the tradesman, I might as well be doing it. Besides, I 
do a better job as I care about my house.


Randy



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


Re: [MBZ] More OT - HWT

2011-12-02 Thread Mountain Man
Has anyone used the Amtrol BoilerMate heat exchanger for WH?
Not for forced air house heat.
For pumped hot water radiator house heat, a boiler zone is run to
BoilerMate which is a heat exchanger for HW.
Sounds reasonable, but... is it?
Any experience?
mao

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com