Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
On Monday, February 20, 2006, at 04:51 PM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
I plan to change the oil & filter in my '91 300D Turbo this week -
ordered
parts from Rusty -
How many quarts of oil (mobil 1) will I need to buy? How hard is it
to get
to the oil filter?
Should be 7.4 qts with filter but you'll never get it all in. Stop at
6 and run the engine for a minute or two then wait a good long while,
recheck and top-off. It should be no more difficult to get at the
filter than one would expect.
Any unusual stuff I should expect? I also ordered a AT Filter kit -
need to
know how much ATF to buy?
5.8 qts if used and 7 if its brand new bone dry.
TIA -
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
I changed the oil and filter yesterday (22 F) - drained 7+ quarts of oil.
Just replace what you drain. I haven't done the ATF or rear diff yet, and
I'm not going to for a while.
This is because I had my ACL and MCL rebuilt today, aka I blew out my knee
Carson Palmer-style and I had surgery to fix it today.
So now I'm laid up for a week, with nothing to do but hit "refresh" on
gmail.
Rusty, do I get a get-well present?
On 2/20/06, John Berryman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
> On Monday, February 20, 2006, at 04:51 PM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
>
> > I plan to change the oil & filter in my '91 300D Turbo this week -
> > ordered
> > parts from Rusty -
> >
> > How many quarts of oil (mobil 1) will I need to buy? How hard is it
> > to get
> > to the oil filter?
>
> Should be 7.4 qts with filter but you'll never get it all in. Stop
> at
> 6 and run the engine for a minute or two then wait a good long while,
> recheck and top-off. It should be no more difficult to get at the
> filter than one would expect.
>
>
> >
> > Any unusual stuff I should expect? I also ordered a AT Filter kit -
> > need to
> > know how much ATF to buy?
>
> 5.8 qts if used and 7 if its brand new bone dry.
>
>
> >
> > TIA -
> >
> > Sincerely,
> > Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
> >
> Johnny B.
> I Mac Therefore I am
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>
--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
On Feb 20, 2006, at 7:14 PM, Sunil Hari wrote: This is because I had my ACL and MCL rebuilt today, aka I blew out my knee Carson Palmer-style and I had surgery to fix it today. So now I'm laid up for a week, with nothing to do but hit "refresh" on gmail. Sunil, I hope you were you getting paid "Carson Palmer-style" bucks when you blew out your knee If so, you can afford to have somebody else do all the work.!!! Just kidding!! Get well quick and get back under your Benz Take care, Chuck Phoenix AZ
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
Larry - as for the oil, the book says 8 qts, but you can only get about 7 in
before its over full. That's partly because the cooler and hoses hold a
lot, and also most people don't get all the oil out because it takes so long
to really let it drain. And good synthetics like Delvac1, as Marshall
pointed out recently, really clings to the metal surfaces and it can take
literally hours before it all drains into the crankcase. So the accepted
rule is to refill only to the point that it is halfway between the add and
full marks.
Its a similar situation for the transmission - especially if you take the
trouble to drain the torque converter. Add to that the complication that
the "full" mark on the dipstick is for a transmission and oil at operating
temperature, so again it pays to be patient and fill it in increments.
I would have 8 qts of engine oil and 8 qts of ATF on hand before doing
either job, and 2 quarts of differential Mobil1 when you get to the
differential.
And my apologies for giving misleading info on the rear view mirror - I went
out to the garage and looked at my wife's car, and the base of the mirror is
actually mounted to the windshield surround, and apparently not directly to
the glass. I must have been recalling an earlier car of mine.
Werner
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 4:51 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
I plan to change the oil & filter in my '91 300D Turbo this week - ordered
parts from Rusty -
How many quarts of oil (mobil 1) will I need to buy? How hard is it to
get
to the oil filter?
Any unusual stuff I should expect? I also ordered a AT Filter kit - need
to
know how much ATF to buy?
TIA -
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
And my apologies for giving misleading info on the rear view mirror - I went out to the garage and looked at my wife's car, and the base of the mirror is actually mounted to the windshield surround, and apparently not directly to the glass. I must have been recalling an earlier car of mine. Yeah, a Chevy! (I've had plenty of Chevy mirrors land in my lap. Enough that I grabbed an old Dodge pickup mirror from the boneyard and screwed it to the ceiling of my Chevy pickup. That ended the problem there.) -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
Werner wrote:<mirror >>
Not a problem - being cautious is always the best policy. ;-)
Thanks for the oil info -- I want to get that changes as quickly as
possibly - when I checked the oil level I could see it was thick and
obviously dino juice. I don't like that stuff!
I was thinking about using my Topsider to extract the oil - you mentioned
draining it and allowing enough time -- is draining preferred on this model?
I'll probably have to extract some, them dr
I plan to change the ATF also - thanks for including the info about it. I
have a AT filter kit on the way from Rusty - and will be sure to drain the
TC when the time comes. I assume the pan on the AT does *not* have a drain
plug like the olds used to - and I'll probably make a mess when I drop the
pan. I may try to extract the ATF with my Topsider to minimize the amount
of fluid that ends up on the floor! ;-)
Thanks again!
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: "Werner Fehlauer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 10:34 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
Larry - as for the oil, the book says 8 qts, but you can only get about 7
in
before its over full. That's partly because the cooler and hoses hold a
lot, and also most people don't get all the oil out because it takes so
long
to really let it drain. And good synthetics like Delvac1, as Marshall
pointed out recently, really clings to the metal surfaces and it can take
literally hours before it all drains into the crankcase. So the accepted
rule is to refill only to the point that it is halfway between the add and
full marks.
Its a similar situation for the transmission - especially if you take the
trouble to drain the torque converter. Add to that the complication that
the "full" mark on the dipstick is for a transmission and oil at operating
temperature, so again it pays to be patient and fill it in increments.
I would have 8 qts of engine oil and 8 qts of ATF on hand before doing
either job, and 2 quarts of differential Mobil1 when you get to the
differential.
And my apologies for giving misleading info on the rear view mirror - I
went
out to the garage and looked at my wife's car, and the base of the mirror
is
actually mounted to the windshield surround, and apparently not directly
to
the glass. I must have been recalling an earlier car of mine.
Werner
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 4:51 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
I plan to change the oil & filter in my '91 300D Turbo this week - ordered
parts from Rusty -
How many quarts of oil (mobil 1) will I need to buy? How hard is it to
get
to the oil filter?
Any unusual stuff I should expect? I also ordered a AT Filter kit - need
to
know how much ATF to buy?
TIA -
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
The AT pan has a hex-head drain plug, but even after you drain it out
there's still about 1/2 - 1 pint of ATF in the pan. Tends to be messy.
The one issue I had with ATF changes is that I didn't have any way to let
air into the system, so the ATF draining looked like someone pouring a
gallon of milk too quickly (i.e. blug-blug-blug instead of laminar flow).
This was true of draining the torque converter. I suspect that if you
loosen a line somewhere, flow becomes smoother and drainage is more
complete.
On 2/21/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Werner wrote:< mirror >>
>
> Not a problem - being cautious is always the best policy. ;-)
>
> Thanks for the oil info -- I want to get that changes as quickly as
> possibly - when I checked the oil level I could see it was thick and
> obviously dino juice. I don't like that stuff!
>
> I was thinking about using my Topsider to extract the oil - you mentioned
> draining it and allowing enough time -- is draining preferred on this
> model?
> I'll probably have to extract some, them dr
>
> I plan to change the ATF also - thanks for including the info about it. I
> have a AT filter kit on the way from Rusty - and will be sure to drain the
> TC when the time comes. I assume the pan on the AT does *not* have a
> drain
> plug like the olds used to - and I'll probably make a mess when I drop the
> pan. I may try to extract the ATF with my Topsider to minimize the amount
> of fluid that ends up on the floor! ;-)
>
> Thanks again!
>
> Sincerely,
> Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
> A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
> For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
> Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
> http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
> - Original Message -
> From: "Werner Fehlauer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 10:34 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
>
>
> > Larry - as for the oil, the book says 8 qts, but you can only get about
> 7
> > in
> > before its over full. That's partly because the cooler and hoses hold a
> > lot, and also most people don't get all the oil out because it takes so
> > long
> > to really let it drain. And good synthetics like Delvac1, as Marshall
> > pointed out recently, really clings to the metal surfaces and it can
> take
> > literally hours before it all drains into the crankcase. So the
> accepted
> > rule is to refill only to the point that it is halfway between the add
> and
> > full marks.
> >
> > Its a similar situation for the transmission - especially if you take
> the
> > trouble to drain the torque converter. Add to that the complication
> that
> > the "full" mark on the dipstick is for a transmission and oil at
> operating
> > temperature, so again it pays to be patient and fill it in increments.
> >
> > I would have 8 qts of engine oil and 8 qts of ATF on hand before doing
> > either job, and 2 quarts of differential Mobil1 when you get to the
> > differential.
> >
> > And my apologies for giving misleading info on the rear view mirror - I
> > went
> > out to the garage and looked at my wife's car, and the base of the
> mirror
> > is
> > actually mounted to the windshield surround, and apparently not directly
> > to
> > the glass. I must have been recalling an earlier car of mine.
> >
> > Werner
> >
> > - Original Message -
> > From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 4:51 PM
> > Subject: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
> >
> >
> >>I plan to change the oil & filter in my '91 300D Turbo this week -
> ordered
> >> parts from Rusty -
> >>
> >> How many quarts of oil (mobil 1) will I need to buy? How hard is it
> to
> >> get
> >> to the oil filter?
> >>
> >> Any unusual stuff I should expect? I also ordered a AT Filter kit -
> need
> >> to
> >> know how much ATF to buy?
> >>
> >> TIA -
> >>
> >> Sincerely,
> >> Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
> >
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.striplin.net
> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> >
>
>
>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>
--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
On Tuesday, February 21, 2006, at 09:07 AM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
I was thinking about using my Topsider to extract the oil - you
mentioned
draining it and allowing enough time -- is draining preferred on this
model?
I'll probably have to extract some, them dr
Still a matter of personal preference. There will still be oil in the
cooler and lines, so don't sweat getting every last drop out, it is
impossible to do so.
I plan to change the ATF also - thanks for including the info about
it. I
have a AT filter kit on the way from Rusty - and will be sure to drain
the
TC when the time comes.
Loosen a cooler line to avoid the glug-glug effect while the TC is
draining.
I assume the pan on the AT does *not* have a drain
plug like the olds used to - and I'll probably make a mess when I drop
the
pan. I may try to extract the ATF with my Topsider to minimize the
amount
of fluid that ends up on the floor! ;-)
There should be a drain plug in the pan. If not I would take the
opportunity to either weld one in or buy a pan with a drain built-in.
Topsider will work fine for you.
Thanks again!
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
Larry - yes, the AT has a drain plug, but that will not drain the torque
converter. You have to turn the engine over (in the correct direction) very
slowly until the small Allen-head drain bolt appears at the bottom, then
remove it to drain the fluid. Then you just slightly loosen the external
oil line on the left side of the transmission, up near the top so as to
break the vacuum.
Of course, the major PITA is removing first the front sound panel, and then
the rear main sound panel. And if the small metal clips are stripped, I
would recommend getting a few to keep on hand for spares. The hex head
screws have a big metal washer to firmly hold up the sound panel, and the
metal clip just gets tapped into the opening in the frame.
Werner
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 9:07 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
Werner wrote:<>
Not a problem - being cautious is always the best policy. ;-)
Thanks for the oil info -- I want to get that changes as quickly as
possibly - when I checked the oil level I could see it was thick and
obviously dino juice. I don't like that stuff!
I was thinking about using my Topsider to extract the oil - you mentioned
draining it and allowing enough time -- is draining preferred on this
model?
I'll probably have to extract some, them dr
I plan to change the ATF also - thanks for including the info about it. I
have a AT filter kit on the way from Rusty - and will be sure to drain the
TC when the time comes. I assume the pan on the AT does *not* have a
drain
plug like the olds used to - and I'll probably make a mess when I drop the
pan. I may try to extract the ATF with my Topsider to minimize the amount
of fluid that ends up on the floor! ;-)
Thanks again!
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
Larry - the dealers are almost all using topsiders these days as it saves
fooling around with the sound panels and therefore costs them less labor.
The tradeoff is that you don't get to see what else is going on under the
engine - loose items, small leaks, etc. And as we've mentioned before, you
cannot get all the old oil out using any method - there's the oil cooler,
big connecting lines, etc.
My preference is to get it on a lift or over a pit and take the time to go
over things thoroughly.
Werner
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 9:07 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
Werner wrote:<>
Not a problem - being cautious is always the best policy. ;-)
Thanks for the oil info -- I want to get that changes as quickly as
possibly - when I checked the oil level I could see it was thick and
obviously dino juice. I don't like that stuff!
I was thinking about using my Topsider to extract the oil - you mentioned
draining it and allowing enough time -- is draining preferred on this
model?
I'll probably have to extract some, them dr
I plan to change the ATF also - thanks for including the info about it. I
have a AT filter kit on the way from Rusty - and will be sure to drain the
TC when the time comes. I assume the pan on the AT does *not* have a
drain
plug like the olds used to - and I'll probably make a mess when I drop the
pan. I may try to extract the ATF with my Topsider to minimize the amount
of fluid that ends up on the floor! ;-)
Thanks again!
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
Whoa Werner,
What sound panels? Under the engine/tranny where I'll be working to change
the ATF? Remember, the most modern MB I'm used to is a '78 240D! Clatter
clatter! How are the sound panels held in place?
;-) Sounds like I'll need to pick up some of the metal clips prior to
starting this job?
I'm still starry eyed to learn I have a windshield washer reservoir with a
*heating* coil in it! That is *so* cool! And I see Buick (or someone)
advertising their heated WW fluid!! And MB was doing it *at least* 15 years
ago! ;-)
Have been out looking at the engine - the coolant level is about 1/2 way up
the reservoir - but I don't see a marker on the reservoir indicating the
proper level. But I suspect it's right. BTW, the coolant res. cap was
loose - probably caused the cooler than normal running? (a little below
80C)
Can the coolant flushing be left to an independant shop? Assuming I bring
the MB coolant and make sure they use it - I'd do it but I always seem to
spill a lot when opening the system to drain. Of course, it looks like MB
has really made things easy to work on with this W124 (in some areas)!
The belt looks to be in good condition - no visible cracks, abrasions, etc.
Found the fuse box (an improvement over the W123!) but it looks like the
same old ceramic fuses. I assume they still need to be replaced on a 12-15
year cycle? Meaning it's time now. Perhaps since the vibrations have been
reduced (so it seems) it's not necessary?
The hood has a foam pad near the latch mechanism - it has some damaged foam
so I'll want to replace it - but that's the only obvious thing needing
attention.
Am getting ready to vacuum the leaves and debris from the hinge area - will
probably see more stuff generating more questions --
Thanks to all who are helping! When I get my Owners Manual (5-10 days) and
other tech books it'll help with many of my questions. BTW, I ordered a
extra key - only came with one - which seems to be typical of a used car for
some reason. MB gets $25 for a key - forgot to ask Rusty to get one for
me --
Love this car!! ;-)
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: "Werner Fehlauer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 11:30 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
Larry - the dealers are almost all using topsiders these days as it saves
fooling around with the sound panels and therefore costs them less labor.
The tradeoff is that you don't get to see what else is going on under the
engine - loose items, small leaks, etc. And as we've mentioned before,
you
cannot get all the old oil out using any method - there's the oil cooler,
big connecting lines, etc.
My preference is to get it on a lift or over a pit and take the time to go
over things thoroughly.
Werner
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 9:07 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
Werner wrote:<>
Not a problem - being cautious is always the best policy. ;-)
Thanks for the oil info -- I want to get that changes as quickly as
possibly - when I checked the oil level I could see it was thick and
obviously dino juice. I don't like that stuff!
I was thinking about using my Topsider to extract the oil - you mentioned
draining it and allowing enough time -- is draining preferred on this
model?
I'll probably have to extract some, them dr
I plan to change the ATF also - thanks for including the info about it.
I
have a AT filter kit on the way from Rusty - and will be sure to drain
the
TC when the time comes. I assume the pan on the AT does *not* have a
drain
plug like the olds used to - and I'll probably make a mess when I drop
the
pan. I may try to extract the ATF with my Topsider to minimize the
amount
of fluid that ends up on the floor! ;-)
Thanks again!
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
What sound panels? Under the engine/tranny where I'll be working to change 201, 124 and 126 diesels (and probably all newer ones too) have belly pans under both the engine and transmission areas. They reduce the sound transmitted outside the car considerably. To the point where it's a bit hard to tell they're diesels. the ATF? Remember, the most modern MB I'm used to is a '78 240D! Clatter clatter! How are the sound panels held in place? Big-headed sheet metal screws. The pans tend to disappear, due to road damage and/or the carelessness of Iffy-Lube monkeys. The pans are expensive to replace. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
Larry - you have a lot of ground to cover in your questions! First, the 124 2.5 Diesels have (in my case) 2 sound panels, the front one about 3x3 ft which gives access to the engine drains, radiator lower end, etc - and held on with 4 of those special screws. This panel has to come off before you get to remove the rear panel, about 3x4 ft, under the transmission. A real PITA if you try it while on your back, but a piece of cake on a lift. And I keep a few of those screws and clips on hand, as if you overtighten and strip out the clips, the best fix is just to replace them. Some second owners have found the sound panels missing as places like Jiffy Lube are suspected of just "forgetting" to put them back on! Make sure you take a good look at the metal transmission cooler lines right under the radiator, as with the panels in place, they can get corrosion started there (another reason to look around). Also look for chafe points on those lines. The serpentine belt should look evenly smooth on the flat side, and have no cracks of the grooved side. Changing the belt is simple; getting to it is another PITA job. Coolant level is at the seam of the plastic expansion tank. A loose cap would make me want to see why the engine was run without any cooling system pressure - leaks??? With no pressure, the system might even run hot or boil off some water. Normal temp is around 90-95C, with 100C OK. You might want to get a new radiator pressure cap from Rusty just to be safe. Flushing the system is supposed to be done every 2 years (and I'm delinquent in that on my car). In the old days, we just dumped the old stuff on the ground, but now the EPA and animal rights people have educated us to dispose of this poisonous stuff correctly. I'll get around to that one of these days - but I suspect that if the engine isn't overheating, that a simple drain and refill with good M-B antifreeze (50-50) will suffice. IMO, snake oil procedures are only needed if there are cooling system problems. But while doing this coolant flush is a good time to change the thermostat if the car isn't running at the proper temperature - and you probably want to change the serpentine belt at the same time. Getting working space in there usually involves removing the fan shroud and fan, which is held on by a small 8mm Allen bolt (and it will appear to have been tightened to 200 ft-lbs!!). M-B makes a special tool to do that job, which amounts to a very long arm ratchet handle for the 8 mm screw, and a simple notched bar to hold the pulley, both of which you can improvise. Yes, by all means replace the fuses - and have a 30A strip fuse on hand in case you have to replace the blower fuse. The foam strip across the front underside of the hood keeps the air going through the radiator. I've had to replace mine once in 15 years. And vacuum out all the leaves and debris on both sides - you should make sure that the drains are all open, and that there's no corrosion starting under the battery area. There, have I covered the questions?? Werner - Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 12:10 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions Whoa Werner, What sound panels? Under the engine/tranny where I'll be working to change the ATF? Remember, the most modern MB I'm used to is a '78 240D! Clatter clatter! How are the sound panels held in place? ;-) Sounds like I'll need to pick up some of the metal clips prior to starting this job? I'm still starry eyed to learn I have a windshield washer reservoir with a *heating* coil in it! That is *so* cool! And I see Buick (or someone) advertising their heated WW fluid!! And MB was doing it *at least* 15 years ago! ;-) Have been out looking at the engine - the coolant level is about 1/2 way up the reservoir - but I don't see a marker on the reservoir indicating the proper level. But I suspect it's right. BTW, the coolant res. cap was loose - probably caused the cooler than normal running? (a little below 80C) Can the coolant flushing be left to an independant shop? Assuming I bring the MB coolant and make sure they use it - I'd do it but I always seem to spill a lot when opening the system to drain. Of course, it looks like MB has really made things easy to work on with this W124 (in some areas)! The belt looks to be in good condition - no visible cracks, abrasions, etc. Found the fuse box (an improvement over the W123!) but it looks like the same old ceramic fuses. I assume they still need to be replaced on a 12-15 year cycle? Meaning it's time now. Perhaps since the vibrations have been reduced (so it seems) it's not necessary? The hood has a foam pad near the latch mechanism - it has some damaged foam s
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
Thanks Werner!
I think you addressed every question! ;-) Just finished vacuuming
the engine compartment - not a lot but difficult to get to - mostly under
the hinges and around the battery. I may have to add another attachment to
my shop vac. - something with a long hose on its end.
I noticed a small inline filter (looks like a oil prefilter but smaller)
between the battery and the fender. No hose clamps so must not be under
much pressure? Any ideas?
Did the W124 come with a cabin filter? Haven't seen any evidence of
one. Sure would help my allergies.
How do I open the climate control so I can get outside air - no heat or
cool - just outside air?
My sound panels are both in place. The more I look around the more I'm
convinced it was maintained by a MB dealer. Isn't the OEM WW fluid dark
blue?
Now, all I need is my package from Rusty. ;-) I really want to get rid
of that dino juice - it's amazing how much I notice little things after
getting used to M1.
I like to look around when doing work as you suggest - in fact, that's
my single biggest complaint about using a shop for the work.. Things they
would leave as-is I would fix - or at least write it down to make sure I buy
the parts I need to fix it later. And I've found things *needing* repair
while working on something else.
I have to go back to pick up my floor mats and new ignition.key and will
get a handfull of fuses and some of the screws and fasteners for the
underside panel - just in case I break one or someone else has broken one
and neglected to fix it properly. Sounds like 4 sets would be all I need
for a while -
Thanks again for all your help - sorry about all the questions - can't
stand being ignorant about my cars!
Take care -
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: "Werner Fehlauer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 12:37 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
Larry - you have a lot of ground to cover in your questions!
First, the 124 2.5 Diesels have (in my case) 2 sound panels, the front one
about 3x3 ft which gives access to the engine drains, radiator lower end,
etc - and held on with 4 of those special screws. This panel has to come
off before you get to remove the rear panel, about 3x4 ft, under the
transmission. A real PITA if you try it while on your back, but a piece
of
cake on a lift. And I keep a few of those screws and clips on hand, as if
you overtighten and strip out the clips, the best fix is just to replace
them. Some second owners have found the sound panels missing as places
like
Jiffy Lube are suspected of just "forgetting" to put them back on!
Make sure you take a good look at the metal transmission cooler lines
right
under the radiator, as with the panels in place, they can get corrosion
started there (another reason to look around). Also look for chafe points
on those lines. The serpentine belt should look evenly smooth on the flat
side, and have no cracks of the grooved side. Changing the belt is
simple;
getting to it is another PITA job.
Coolant level is at the seam of the plastic expansion tank. A loose cap
would make me want to see why the engine was run without any cooling
system
pressure - leaks??? With no pressure, the system might even run hot or
boil
off some water. Normal temp is around 90-95C, with 100C OK. You might
want
to get a new radiator pressure cap from Rusty just to be safe.
Flushing the system is supposed to be done every 2 years (and I'm
delinquent
in that on my car). In the old days, we just dumped the old stuff on the
ground, but now the EPA and animal rights people have educated us to
dispose
of this poisonous stuff correctly. I'll get around to that one of these
days - but I suspect that if the engine isn't overheating, that a simple
drain and refill with good M-B antifreeze (50-50) will suffice. IMO,
snake
oil procedures are only needed if there are cooling system problems. But
while doing this coolant flush is a good time to change the thermostat if
the car isn't running at the proper temperature - and you probably want to
change the serpentine belt at the same time. Getting working space in
there
usually involves removing the fan shroud and fan, which is held on by a
small 8mm Allen bolt (and it will appear to have been tightened to 200
ft-lbs!!). M-B makes a special tool to do that job, which amounts to a
very
long arm ratchet handle for the 8 mm screw, and a simple notched bar to
hold
the pulley, both of which you can impr
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
How do I open the climate control so I can get outside air - no heat or cool - just outside air? The EC position (no AC compressor), on MIN temperature (no heating). That's as close as it gets. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
Yeah, I've always liked just having outside air flow through into the cabin without bothering to use the juice to run a fan. It seems that Mercedes thinks that if you can afford the car you won't care that you ALWAYS have a fan running if you want any air at all... Levi On 2/21/06, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > How do I open the climate control so I can get outside air - no > > heat or > > cool - just outside air? > > The EC position (no AC compressor), on MIN temperature (no heating). > That's as close as it gets. > > -- Jim > > > ___ > http://www.striplin.net > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net > -- It isn't what you have, or who you are, or where you are, or what you are doing that makes you happy or unhappy. It is what you think about. -Dale Carnegie
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
Larry - I don't recall any small inline filters over by the battery on my
car, but there are lots of vacuum lines - be careful NOT to inadvertently
disconnect any, especially when changing the air filter. You will quickly
notice when your turbo 2.5 becomes "non" turbo!
As for cool outside air, others have already answered - min temp, economy
pushbutton selected, and fan on "min". Leaving the fan on "auto" will force
it to "max" if it can't sense the cabin temp to be as selected on the
temperature wheel. Then again, why would you want to run in a condition
that M-B KNEW you didn't need?;-)) Just dial in a comfortable temperature,
and if the outside air is lower, the A/C won't come on, and the fan won't
speed up. If the ambient outside air is warmer, then use the A/C switch and
enjoy the car!
And no, there's no filters - that's a W140 problem/feature.
Werner
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 2:21 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
Thanks Werner!
I think you addressed every question! ;-) Just finished vacuuming
the engine compartment - not a lot but difficult to get to - mostly under
the hinges and around the battery. I may have to add another attachment
to
my shop vac. - something with a long hose on its end.
I noticed a small inline filter (looks like a oil prefilter but
smaller)
between the battery and the fender. No hose clamps so must not be under
much pressure? Any ideas?
Did the W124 come with a cabin filter? Haven't seen any evidence of
one. Sure would help my allergies.
How do I open the climate control so I can get outside air - no heat or
cool - just outside air?
My sound panels are both in place. The more I look around the more I'm
convinced it was maintained by a MB dealer. Isn't the OEM WW fluid dark
blue?
Now, all I need is my package from Rusty. ;-) I really want to get
rid
of that dino juice - it's amazing how much I notice little things after
getting used to M1.
I like to look around when doing work as you suggest - in fact, that's
my single biggest complaint about using a shop for the work.. Things they
would leave as-is I would fix - or at least write it down to make sure I
buy
the parts I need to fix it later. And I've found things *needing* repair
while working on something else.
I have to go back to pick up my floor mats and new ignition.key and
will
get a handfull of fuses and some of the screws and fasteners for the
underside panel - just in case I break one or someone else has broken one
and neglected to fix it properly. Sounds like 4 sets would be all I need
for a while -
Thanks again for all your help - sorry about all the questions - can't
stand being ignorant about my cars!
Take care -
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
Thanks - I'll give it a try -
;-)
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: "John Berryman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 4:34 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
On Tuesday, February 21, 2006, at 02:21 PM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
How do I open the climate control so I can get outside air - no
heat or
cool - just outside air?
If there is a lever on the center vents, it will open them and if ACC
is off outside air should come in.
Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
That inline filter you talk of is a vacuum switch. leave it alone.
And my front noise encapsulation panel is missing. Made changing the oil
really simple, but it sort of sounds like my 84 300D.
Am I doing any damage running around without the panel in place?
On 2/21/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Thanks - I'll give it a try -
> ;-)
>
> Sincerely,
> Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
> A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
> For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
> Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
> http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
> - Original Message -
> From: "John Berryman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 4:34 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
>
>
> >
> > On Tuesday, February 21, 2006, at 02:21 PM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > wrote:
> >
> >>How do I open the climate control so I can get outside air - no
> >> heat or
> >> cool - just outside air?
> >>
> >
> > If there is a lever on the center vents, it will open them and if ACC
> > is off outside air should come in.
> >
> > Johnny B.
> > I Mac Therefore I am
> > ___
> > http://www.striplin.net
> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> >
>
>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>
--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
Sunil - the sound panel being off should hurt anything, especially in normal driving on decent roads. I suppose they provide a bit of deflection of water, mud, and grit, but they are there to make the car seem quieter, mainly. Werner - Original Message - From: "Sunil Hari" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 8:02 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions That inline filter you talk of is a vacuum switch. leave it alone. And my front noise encapsulation panel is missing. Made changing the oil really simple, but it sort of sounds like my 84 300D. Am I doing any damage running around without the panel in place?
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
The front panel overlaps the rear, and without the front one installed, the rear hangs down a bit and is more susceptible to damage. -Aaron
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I plan to change the oil & filter in my '91 300D Turbo this week - ordered parts from Rusty - How many quarts of oil (mobil 1) will I need to buy? How hard is it to get to the oil filter? Any unusual stuff I should expect? I also ordered a AT Filter kit - need to know how much ATF to buy? The quantity of ATF for a 722.4 transmission if you drain the converter is 6 liters (6.35 qt). Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I plan to change the oil & filter in my '91 300D Turbo this week - ordered parts from Rusty - How many quarts of oil (mobil 1) will I need to buy? How hard is it to get to the oil filter? Any unusual stuff I should expect? I also ordered a AT Filter kit - need to know how much ATF to buy? Oil required for the OM602.96 engines is 7 liters (7.4 qt). The filter access is trivial. Much like your 123 240D. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
--- Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > The quantity of ATF for a 722.4 transmission if you > drain the converter > is 6 liters (6.35 qt). Not having access to trustworthy jack stands and having never seen an engine turned manually, I'm trying to talk myself into changing the ATF without draining the converter. Would that be a bad thing? David 83 300DT __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
On Feb 23, 2006, at 4:54 PM, David Johnson wrote: Not having access to trustworthy jack stands and having never seen an engine turned manually, I'm trying to talk myself into changing the ATF without draining the converter. Would that be a bad thing? David 83 300DT Have it done at a shop it'll be cheaper than hospital or funeral bills. There's more fluid in the convertor than in the pan. Its a simple process, some Jiffy-Lube guys could probably do it without screwing anything up. I would avoid tranny shops and trans fluid flushes like the plague. Local gas station/service station is probably a good choice too. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
John Berryman wrote: Have it done at a shop it'll be cheaper than hospital or funeral bills. There's more fluid in the convertor than in the pan. Its a simple process, some Jiffy-Lube guys could probably do it without screwing anything up. Good luck. Everyone seems to be afraid of these cars. It seems like when I called around to anywhere but a Mercedes specialist asking about a transmission service or even a V-belt change, they said "we don't do that on those cars."
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
I have yet to do the MB but it is not normally a difficult job to do. I have done this sort of thing on lots of other vehicles. Not a whole lot harder than changing the oil in the engine. Messy in most cases but that is normal when one crawls around under a vehicle. Be prepared to spill some and if you need to keep the drive or floor or whatever you are parked on clean, the take some precautions with cardboard or the like to prevent a major cleanup afterwards. If you have a place to work then get yourself a set of good quality ramps and have at it. It is not brain surgery. One loosens bolts and removes them and then later re-installs them with some new gaskets etc and then re-tightens them. If one is afraid that one does not have the touch, then one uses a torque wrench etc. The worst thing that can go wrong is that one buggers something up and has to buy a new part etc. It is a learning experience and gets easier with time. For an example, I offer the following. When I first got my 1986 Chevy Suburban (back in 1991) I was intimidated by it. I had not owned anything with a V8 engine since a 1968 Cougar that I traded away in 1973. Most of my vehicles in between were either new and didn't need anything much or were older and very simple like my 1968 Chevy pickup with a 292 inline 6. None of them had as much plumbing as that thing had under the hood. I changed a fuel filter in the carb and was literally afraid I would not get it back together again. Within a few months I was much mor comfortable with it. I changed the valve seals and so I had the valve covers off and all of the junk in the way had to be moved or removed. I later wondered why I had been so intimidated by it at the outset. I'm sort of in the same boat with the MB. I bought it in July 2005 and drove it a bit but really didn't do much apart from change the oil twice. This spring I am going to get into it and check the compression, check for chain stretch etc. I have had it long enough to feel more comfortable with it and have read the posts on this forum and a couple of others long enough to be satisfied that there shouldn't be anything too unusual about it. My car is simple compared to most of the ones that you folks talk about. I don't have to worry about the self levelling suspension or the turbo etc. The worst thing I have to decide is whether to tackle the front seats or hire someone else to do it. Randy B -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of David Brodbeck Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 2:44 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions John Berryman wrote: > Have it done at a shop it'll be cheaper than hospital or funeral > bills. There's more fluid in the convertor than in the pan. Its a > simple process, some Jiffy-Lube guys could probably do it without > screwing anything up. > Good luck. Everyone seems to be afraid of these cars. It seems like when I called around to anywhere but a Mercedes specialist asking about a transmission service or even a V-belt change, they said "we don't do that on those cars." ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
Yes it would be a bad thing. What about your filter? It is a dirty job but very important. Go to a Benz specialist and get it done properly, I would not trust some idiot to do this; or get the equipment and learn to do it. It is not a hard job, just one where cleanliness (and some experience) is very important. The problem with letting some teenager to do this is that if not torqued up right you will have fluid leakage. It is usally advisable to put a new gasket in while you are changing the fluid/filter. Hendrik with near fresh fluid and filter in the box and no drips due to new gasket and proper (well very close to) installation - Original Message - From: "David Johnson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006 8:24 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions --- Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: The quantity of ATF for a 722.4 transmission if you drain the converter is 6 liters (6.35 qt). Not having access to trustworthy jack stands and having never seen an engine turned manually, I'm trying to talk myself into changing the ATF without draining the converter. Would that be a bad thing? David 83 300DT __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 267.15.11/264 - Release Date: 17/02/2006
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
David Brodbeck wrote: > > John Berryman wrote: > > Have it done at a shop it'll be cheaper than hospital or funeral > > bills. There's more fluid in the convertor than in the pan. Its a > > simple process, some Jiffy-Lube guys could probably do it without > > screwing anything up. How much clearance does a 123 have? I did it on my W116 by crawling under it as it sat on the tires. It helps to have a car that the PO installed 215/75R14 tires on. I'm somewhat sure I didn't use ramps, but it's possible I've forgotten that detail.
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
I changed a 123's oil without jacking it up at all. Oil pan drain bolt was in front, made drainage a snap. On my 124, drain bolt was on the side of the pan, so it's just about as easy. On 2/23/06, Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > David Brodbeck wrote: > > > > John Berryman wrote: > > > Have it done at a shop it'll be cheaper than hospital or funeral > > > bills. There's more fluid in the convertor than in the pan. Its a > > > simple process, some Jiffy-Lube guys could probably do it without > > > screwing anything up. > > How much clearance does a 123 have? > I did it on my W116 by crawling under it as it sat on the tires. > It helps to have a car that the PO installed 215/75R14 tires on. > I'm somewhat sure I didn't use ramps, but it's possible I've forgotten > that detail. > > ___ > http://www.striplin.net > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net > -- Sunil Hari 1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 513-205-7474
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
Hi David,
Your experience is about what I've gotten when trying to get a transmission
serviced - and I've tried places like MAACO, an indy, the dealership, etc -
with vehicles like my 240D, a Chev Tahoe, Chrysler Concord and Ford Van V8.
The biggest problem all had except for the dealership (and they only got it
right one visit out of 2) - was to overfill the tranny - by as much as 2
quarts. I've given up on having anyone but *me* work on my cars - if I
want it done right at least..
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: "David Johnson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 10:24 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
The first time I changed the transmission fluid, some
18K miles ago, I brought the car to the local
dealership. They not only overtorqued the pan, but
overfilled by 2 quarts. I supsected they didn't drain
the converter.
The second time, a local Indy shop specializing in MB
did it. They underfilled by 1.5 quarts.
Both of these two places charged me about $150 for the
job, on top my my own fluid. The Indy shop is
supposedly of good repute (and came via personal
recommendation from one of the MB lists)
Maybe it's just my luck, but after this kind of
experience, twice in a row, I'm not certain about the
quality and the competenccy of these "specialists."
David
83 300DT
--- Hendrik Riessen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
very important. Go to a Benz specialist and get it
done properly, I would
not trust some
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
You must be one skinny dude. Kind of scary. My 123 has 14 inch tyres and I don't think my 5 year old could get under there, let alone change tranny fluid and filter. Did you dig a hole in the lawn and drive the car over it? Hendrik with two vehicle ramps (which are crap to drive onto but work nicely if I jack the car up and let it down onto the ramps), two light vehicle stands and two 5 tonne axle stands (which are the ducks guts) - Original Message - From: "Mitch Haley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006 10:31 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions David Brodbeck wrote: John Berryman wrote: > Have it done at a shop it'll be cheaper than hospital or funeral > bills. There's more fluid in the convertor than in the pan. Its a > simple process, some Jiffy-Lube guys could probably do it without > screwing anything up. How much clearance does a 123 have? I did it on my W116 by crawling under it as it sat on the tires. It helps to have a car that the PO installed 215/75R14 tires on. I'm somewhat sure I didn't use ramps, but it's possible I've forgotten that detail. ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 267.15.11/264 - Release Date: 17/02/2006
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
This is in reference to changing the oil in the transmission, not the engine. Hendrik - Original Message - From: "Sunil Hari" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006 10:37 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions I changed a 123's oil without jacking it up at all. Oil pan drain bolt was in front, made drainage a snap. On my 124, drain bolt was on the side of the pan, so it's just about as easy. On 2/23/06, Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: David Brodbeck wrote: > > John Berryman wrote: > > Have it done at a shop it'll be cheaper than hospital or > > funeral > > bills. There's more fluid in the convertor than in the pan. Its a > > simple process, some Jiffy-Lube guys could probably do it without > > screwing anything up. How much clearance does a 123 have? I did it on my W116 by crawling under it as it sat on the tires. It helps to have a car that the PO installed 215/75R14 tires on. I'm somewhat sure I didn't use ramps, but it's possible I've forgotten that detail. ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Sunil Hari 1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 513-205-7474 ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 267.15.11/264 - Release Date: 17/02/2006
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
I reached this conclusion in 1972. I usually had to do it over again
anyway, so I figured I might as well do it myself the first time.
Tom Potter
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 9:51 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
... I've given up on having anyone but *me* work on my cars - if I
want it done right at least..
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
Re: [MBZ] Oil Change - Questions
Sunhil wrote: "I'm 5'6", 135 lbs. And I was talking about an OIL change, not an ATF change. But truth be told, I -can- get under the car without jacks. Unfortunately, once there I can't do anything." Well, I'm 6'3" and 280, so even with jacks, I don't think my gut can clear most of what is under there. I wish I had a lift. Donald H. Snook
