Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-05-04 Thread Mike Esh

Kaleb,
can you contact the owner of the vehicle that had it before the guy you bought 
it from.  He may able to add some information about the car and it's recent 
history.
Mike




On May 02, 2011, at 10:49 AM, David Bruckmann bruckmannd@transcontinentalca 
wrote:


It's not the oil. He was running Delvac and had the problem then, before the 
dealer changed the oil.

Like any other MB, oil pressure should peg essentially as soon as you move off 
the line. MINIMUM is that it peg at 3000rpm, which on that car should be around 
50mph. Oil circuit description and test procedure attached, job 18-205.

You could try checking the oil pressure relief valve on the pump. It is easy to reach, 
just remove the lower pan. The 617.91x engine manual, job 18-215 attached, specifies a 
repair to the valve in case of complaints of low oil pressure. Apparently 
they tended to come loose in 617.910 engines There is a revised valve design and a 
recommended sealing compound.

D.

 On 5/1/2011 2:38 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
 I drove the car a little bit yesterday and was able to get it to the
 point that at hot idle the pressure drops down to about half way
 between the bottom and the 1st mark. It pegs when revved up but
 without a tach Im not sure what rpm its running. I know that on flat
 ground in 4th going about 60 mpg it will be just right off being
 pegged. Its not against the peg but its almost there. It does seem
 to be low but what I dont get is the fact that this oil is not pitch
 black like all other diesel oil I have seen so I still think it might
 be something to do with the oil thats in there.











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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-05-03 Thread David Bruckmann
It's not the oil. He was running Delvac and had the problem then, before the 
dealer changed the oil. 

Like any other MB, oil pressure should peg essentially as soon as you move off 
the line. MINIMUM is that it peg at 3000rpm, which on that car should be around 
50mph. Oil circuit description and test procedure attached, job 18-205.

You could try checking the oil pressure relief valve on the pump. It is easy to 
reach, just remove the lower pan. The 617.91x engine manual, job 18-215 
attached, specifies a repair to the valve in case of complaints of low oil 
pressure. Apparently they tended to come loose in 617.910 engines. There is a 
revised valve design and a recommended sealing compound. 

D. 

 On 5/1/2011 2:38 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
 I drove the car a little bit yesterday and was able to get it to the 
 point that at hot idle the pressure drops down to about half way 
 between the bottom and the 1st mark.  It pegs when revved up but 
 without a tach Im not sure what rpm its running.  I know that on flat 
 ground in 4th going about 60 mpg it will be just right off being 
 pegged.  Its not against the peg but its almost there.  It does seem 
 to be low but what I dont get is the fact that this oil is not pitch 
 black like all other diesel oil I have seen so I still think it might 
 be something to do with the oil thats in there.
 

 


 
 


 

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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-05-01 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
I drove the car a little bit yesterday and was able to get it to 
the point that at hot idle the pressure drops down to about half 
way between the bottom and the 1st mark.  It pegs when revved up 
but without a tach Im not sure what rpm its running.  I know that 
on flat ground in 4th going about 60 mpg it will be just right off 
being pegged.  Its not against the peg but its almost there.  It 
does seem to be low but what I dont get is the fact that this oil 
is not pitch black like all other diesel oil I have seen so I 
still think it might be something to do with the oil thats in there.


On 4/29/2011 9:31 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
wasnt there something about the big bolt where the distributor 
would mount if it was a gas car having something to do with the 
oil pump?  I seem to recall something about this from years ago.


On 4/28/2011 10:08 PM, Dieselhead wrote:
MY recollection is that the OM615 and early 617 have a smaller 
can than the OM621.  It is in essence, a fram C3 filter size.  
I never changed oil on a 615, and Randy should be able to 
confirm this.  I think it is the same as the 621, where the oil 
filter cartridge is only the bypass filter.  There is supposed 
to be a spring in the bottom of the can.  Then the cartridge, 
then the main filter.  The main filter is a reuseable plastic 
thing link 4 saucers stacked like this:  ()()  When you put the 
can on the engine, you have to push the main and cansiter 
filters down, hold them down with ine finger until you get the 
can pressed up against the housing, then screw in the bolt that 
holds the can.  There are no stem orings like on the 123 
OM616/7 and OM60x engines.  I have seen 621s with NOTHING in 
the filter can that hold good oil pressure.  I don't think the 
problem is there, but theyre MAY be a valve in the can that 
controls main vs bypass.  If all the oil is diverted to the 
bypass, the oil pressure might drop as in this case.


I would expect more like low pressure until the whole can is 
pressurized, then normal pressure, if all the flow went to the 
bypass filter.  If anyone has a 615 book or a 617 book, this 
should be able to be confirmed or refuted.



Maybe, I was trying to remember if those have the o ring deal 
like the later cars


Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 28, 2011, at 8:35 PM, Rick Knoble 
rickkno...@hotmail.com wrote:





 I have never heard of bearings wearing out on one of those,
 usually the rings would wear out first and it would just loose
 compression. The usual cause of bearing problems is it 
leaks oil
 and they let it run out and it causes problems, but then 
you get

 noise. This car has no noise at all, nothing. It is a mystery
 indeed.


 Oil pressure was down to below .5 bar hot, and would only 
peg the gauge at 80mph. That was before anyone did 
anything... with fresh Delvac 1300 15w40. It got worse 
after the dealer oil change.


 The hope was that the pressure limit valve was the 
culprit, but the bearing shavings in the filter (after only 
20 miles of driving) suggested otherwise.


 Wouldn't the oil filter o-ring being bad or missing cause 
low oil pressure?


 Rick
 Who knows nothing about anything older than a 123
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--
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 99 E430, 99 E320. 97 E300, 95 E300, 93 300D, 92 500SEL,
 92 300SD, 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 90 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-05-01 Thread Craig
On Sun, 01 May 2011 14:38:17 -0500 Kaleb C. Striplin
ka...@striplin.net wrote:

 I know that on flat ground in 4th going about 60 mpg 

With that kind of fuel mileage, you ought to sell it quick!  :-)


 it will be just right off being pegged.  Its not against the peg but
 its almost there. It does seem to be low but what I dont get is the
 fact that this oil is not pitch black like all other diesel oil I have
 seen so I still think it might be something to do with the oil thats in
 there.

It does seem odd. I've run diesels for almost 40 years and the oil has
always been pitch black.

Change it.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-05-01 Thread Benz Hogs
Could there be blockage that's keeping the oil from the area where it 
normally gets soot?  Your repeated comments about the non-black oil 
makes me wonder if this problem isn't a normal oil pressure issue


 Luther   KB5QHUOak Park, IL
'87 300SDL (312,xxx mi)
'91 Dodge Ram 150 (290,xxx mi)


On 5/1/2011 2:38 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
I drove the car a little bit yesterday and was able to get it to the 
point that at hot idle the pressure drops down to about half way 
between the bottom and the 1st mark.  It pegs when revved up but 
without a tach Im not sure what rpm its running.  I know that on flat 
ground in 4th going about 60 mpg it will be just right off being 
pegged.  Its not against the peg but its almost there.  It does seem 
to be low but what I dont get is the fact that this oil is not pitch 
black like all other diesel oil I have seen so I still think it might 
be something to do with the oil thats in there.


On 4/29/2011 9:31 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
wasnt there something about the big bolt where the distributor would 
mount if it was a gas car having something to do with the oil pump?  
I seem to recall something about this from years ago.


On 4/28/2011 10:08 PM, Dieselhead wrote:
MY recollection is that the OM615 and early 617 have a smaller can 
than the OM621.  It is in essence, a fram C3 filter size.  I never 
changed oil on a 615, and Randy should be able to confirm this.  I 
think it is the same as the 621, where the oil filter cartridge is 
only the bypass filter.  There is supposed to be a spring in the 
bottom of the can.  Then the cartridge, then the main filter.  The 
main filter is a reuseable plastic thing link 4 saucers stacked like 
this:  ()()  When you put the can on the engine, you have to push 
the main and cansiter filters down, hold them down with ine finger 
until you get the can pressed up against the housing, then screw in 
the bolt that holds the can.  There are no stem orings like on the 
123 OM616/7 and OM60x engines.  I have seen 621s with NOTHING in the 
filter can that hold good oil pressure.  I don't think the problem 
is there, but theyre MAY be a valve in the can that controls main vs 
bypass.  If all the oil is diverted to the bypass, the oil pressure 
might drop as in this case.


I would expect more like low pressure until the whole can is 
pressurized, then normal pressure, if all the flow went to the 
bypass filter.  If anyone has a 615 book or a 617 book, this should 
be able to be confirmed or refuted.



Maybe, I was trying to remember if those have the o ring deal like 
the later cars


Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 28, 2011, at 8:35 PM, Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com 
wrote:





 I have never heard of bearings wearing out on one of those,
 usually the rings would wear out first and it would just loose
 compression. The usual cause of bearing problems is it leaks oil
 and they let it run out and it causes problems, but then you get
 noise. This car has no noise at all, nothing. It is a mystery
 indeed.


 Oil pressure was down to below .5 bar hot, and would only peg 
the gauge at 80mph. That was before anyone did anything... with 
fresh Delvac 1300 15w40. It got worse after the dealer oil change.


 The hope was that the pressure limit valve was the culprit, but 
the bearing shavings in the filter (after only 20 miles of 
driving) suggested otherwise.


 Wouldn't the oil filter o-ring being bad or missing cause low oil 
pressure?


 Rick
 Who knows nothing about anything older than a 123
___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-30 Thread Craig
On Fri, 29 Apr 2011 21:31:43 -0500 Kaleb C. Striplin
ka...@striplin.net wrote:

 wasnt there something about the big bolt where the distributor 
 would mount if it was a gas car having something to do with the 
 oil pump?  I seem to recall something about this from years ago.

The Service Manual for engines 615, 616, 617.91 in Section 05-410 shows
removal of the helical gear shaft. The sketch at the lower right of page
1 shows mechanical arrangement. 

The timing chain drives the injection timing device which is attached to
the front end of the intermediate gear shaft. The back end of the
intermediate gear shaft drives the injection pump. 

At the middle of the intermediate gear shaft is a helical gear. This
gear, on the horizontal intermediate gear shaft, engages a corresponding
gear on the nearly vertical helical gear shaft. The bottom end of the
helical gear shaft drives the oil pump shaft. The top end of the
intermediate gear shaft is held by the thrust piece. The thrust piece is
held near its top by a retaining bolt that comes in from the side. The
top end of the thrust piece is closed by a large screw plug, which has
M26xl.5 threads. This is the hexagonal bolt in the flat spot at the
front end of the driver's side of the block right in front of the
injection pump. In a gasoline engine, the large screw plug would be
replaced by a distributor. 


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-29 Thread Randy Bennell
Your basic description is accurate. The cartridge goes in the can and 
the nylon doodad with the mesh in it goes on top. A bit of a devil to 
get it all back into the car as there is not a whole lot of room. I have 
found it helps a lot if I put the car up on ramps before hand so that I 
can get far enough under to see if I appear to be lined up. It is 
possible to get the bolt in the wrong spot and to bend the edge of the 
canister if one tries to tighten it up without it being aligned 
properly. Cannot recall if there are any o-rings on the bolt. I don't 
think I have ever changed any.


Randy

On 28/04/2011 10:08 PM, Dieselhead wrote:
MY recollection is that the OM615 and early 617 have a smaller can 
than the OM621.  It is in essence, a fram C3 filter size.  I never 
changed oil on a 615, and Randy should be able to confirm this.  I 
think it is the same as the 621, where the oil filter cartridge is 
only the bypass filter.  There is supposed to be a spring in the 
bottom of the can.  Then the cartridge, then the main filter.  The 
main filter is a reuseable plastic thing link 4 saucers stacked like 
this:  ()()  When you put the can on the engine, you have to push the 
main and cansiter filters down, hold them down with ine finger until 
you get the can pressed up against the housing, then screw in the bolt 
that holds the can.  There are no stem orings like on the 123 OM616/7 
and OM60x engines.  I have seen 621s with NOTHING in the filter can 
that hold good oil pressure.  I don't think the problem is there, but 
theyre MAY be a valve in the can that controls main vs bypass.  If all 
the oil is diverted to the bypass, the oil pressure might drop as in 
this case.


I would expect more like low pressure until the whole can is 
pressurized, then normal pressure, if all the flow went to the bypass 
filter.  If anyone has a 615 book or a 617 book, this should be able 
to be confirmed or refuted.



Maybe, I was trying to remember if those have the o ring deal like 
the later cars


Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 28, 2011, at 8:35 PM, Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com wrote:




 I have never heard of bearings wearing out on one of those,
 usually the rings would wear out first and it would just loose
 compression. The usual cause of bearing problems is it leaks oil
 and they let it run out and it causes problems, but then you get
 noise. This car has no noise at all, nothing. It is a mystery
 indeed.


 Oil pressure was down to below .5 bar hot, and would only peg the 
gauge at 80mph. That was before anyone did anything... with fresh 
Delvac 1300 15w40. It got worse after the dealer oil change.


 The hope was that the pressure limit valve was the culprit, but 
the bearing shavings in the filter (after only 20 miles of 
driving) suggested otherwise.


 Wouldn't the oil filter o-ring being bad or missing cause low oil 
pressure?


 Rick
 Who knows nothing about anything older than a 123
___



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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-29 Thread Craig
On Fri, 29 Apr 2011 10:07:26 -0500 Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
wrote:

 Your basic description is accurate. The cartridge goes in the can and 
 the nylon doodad with the mesh in it goes on top. A bit of a devil to 
 get it all back into the car as there is not a whole lot of room. I
 have found it helps a lot if I put the car up on ramps before hand so
 that I can get far enough under to see if I appear to be lined up. It
 is possible to get the bolt in the wrong spot and to bend the edge of
 the canister if one tries to tighten it up without it being aligned 
 properly. Cannot recall if there are any o-rings on the bolt. I don't 
 think I have ever changed any.

There is a copper washer between the head of the center bolt and the
cannister and a rubber o-ring between the cannister and the oil filter
mount. The nylon bypass filter goes on top of the deep filtering
cartridge with its openings up to mate with holes in the mount. There are
no small o-rings along the length of the center bolt like on the W123.



Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-29 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
wasnt there something about the big bolt where the distributor 
would mount if it was a gas car having something to do with the 
oil pump?  I seem to recall something about this from years ago.


On 4/28/2011 10:08 PM, Dieselhead wrote:
MY recollection is that the OM615 and early 617 have a smaller 
can than the OM621.  It is in essence, a fram C3 filter size.  I 
never changed oil on a 615, and Randy should be able to confirm 
this.  I think it is the same as the 621, where the oil filter 
cartridge is only the bypass filter.  There is supposed to be a 
spring in the bottom of the can.  Then the cartridge, then the 
main filter.  The main filter is a reuseable plastic thing link 
4 saucers stacked like this:  ()()  When you put the can on the 
engine, you have to push the main and cansiter filters down, 
hold them down with ine finger until you get the can pressed up 
against the housing, then screw in the bolt that holds the can.  
There are no stem orings like on the 123 OM616/7 and OM60x 
engines.  I have seen 621s with NOTHING in the filter can that 
hold good oil pressure.  I don't think the problem is there, but 
theyre MAY be a valve in the can that controls main vs bypass.  
If all the oil is diverted to the bypass, the oil pressure might 
drop as in this case.


I would expect more like low pressure until the whole can is 
pressurized, then normal pressure, if all the flow went to the 
bypass filter.  If anyone has a 615 book or a 617 book, this 
should be able to be confirmed or refuted.



Maybe, I was trying to remember if those have the o ring deal 
like the later cars


Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 28, 2011, at 8:35 PM, Rick Knoble 
rickkno...@hotmail.com wrote:





 I have never heard of bearings wearing out on one of those,
 usually the rings would wear out first and it would just loose
 compression. The usual cause of bearing problems is it leaks 
oil
 and they let it run out and it causes problems, but then you 
get

 noise. This car has no noise at all, nothing. It is a mystery
 indeed.


 Oil pressure was down to below .5 bar hot, and would only 
peg the gauge at 80mph. That was before anyone did 
anything... with fresh Delvac 1300 15w40. It got worse after 
the dealer oil change.


 The hope was that the pressure limit valve was the culprit, 
but the bearing shavings in the filter (after only 20 miles 
of driving) suggested otherwise.


 Wouldn't the oil filter o-ring being bad or missing cause low 
oil pressure?


 Rick
 Who knows nothing about anything older than a 123
___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1209 / Virus Database: 1500/3603 - Release Date: 
04/28/11





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 99 E430, 99 E320. 97 E300, 95 E300, 93 300D, 92 500SEL,
 92 300SD, 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 90 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-29 Thread Dieselhead
No orings on the bolt.  There is a copper or alum seal ring under the 
head of the bolt.



Your basic description is accurate. The cartridge goes in the can 
and the nylon doodad with the mesh in it goes on top. A bit of a 
devil to get it all back into the car as there is not a whole lot of 
room. I have found it helps a lot if I put the car up on ramps 
before hand so that I can get far enough under to see if I appear to 
be lined up. It is possible to get the bolt in the wrong spot and to 
bend the edge of the canister if one tries to tighten it up without 
it being aligned properly. Cannot recall if there are any o-rings on 
the bolt. I don't think I have ever changed any.


Randy

On 28/04/2011 10:08 PM, Dieselhead wrote:
MY recollection is that the OM615 and early 617 have a smaller can 
than the OM621.  It is in essence, a fram C3 filter size.  I never 
changed oil on a 615, and Randy should be able to confirm this.  I 
think it is the same as the 621, where the oil filter cartridge is 
only the bypass filter.  There is supposed to be a spring in the 
bottom of the can.  Then the cartridge, then the main filter.  The 
main filter is a reuseable plastic thing link 4 saucers stacked 
like this:  ()()  When you put the can on the engine, you have to 
push the main and cansiter filters down, hold them down with ine 
finger until you get the can pressed up against the housing, then 
screw in the bolt that holds the can.  There are no stem orings 
like on the 123 OM616/7 and OM60x engines.  I have seen 621s with 
NOTHING in the filter can that hold good oil pressure.  I don't 
think the problem is there, but theyre MAY be a valve in the can 
that controls main vs bypass.  If all the oil is diverted to the 
bypass, the oil pressure might drop as in this case.


I would expect more like low pressure until the whole can is 
pressurized, then normal pressure, if all the flow went to the 
bypass filter.  If anyone has a 615 book or a 617 book, this should 
be able to be confirmed or refuted.


Maybe, I was trying to remember if those have the o ring deal like 
the later cars


Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 28, 2011, at 8:35 PM, Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com wrote:




 I have never heard of bearings wearing out on one of those,
 usually the rings would wear out first and it would just loose
 compression. The usual cause of bearing problems is it leaks oil
 and they let it run out and it causes problems, but then you get
 noise. This car has no noise at all, nothing. It is a mystery
 indeed.


 Oil pressure was down to below .5 bar hot, and would only peg 
the gauge at 80mph. That was before anyone did anything... with 
fresh Delvac 1300 15w40. It got worse after the dealer oil 
change.


 The hope was that the pressure limit valve was the culprit, 
but the bearing shavings in the filter (after only 20 miles of 
driving) suggested otherwise.


 Wouldn't the oil filter o-ring being bad or missing cause low 
oil pressure?


 Rick
 Who knows nothing about anything older than a 123
___



___
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For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-28 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Would it be the rod bearings or main bearings that would cause low 
oil pressure?


On 4/27/2011 9:44 PM, Dieselhead wrote:
I'd guess the dealer used 0-20 or something like that.  nobody 
at a stealership lasts long enough to know about a 124, much 
less a 115. By now, even a 210 is unknown by stealer service.


Kaleb,  remove the bottom oil pan, remove the oil pump.  Go to 
FLAPS and get plastiguage.  Pull the #1 rod cap and plastigauge 
it.  That will tell you all you need to know about the 
bearings.  Assuming that is good, try a different oil pump and 
the correct oil.


No need to remove the engine unless you need to change bearings 
or engines.



I don't know what the new diesels call for but the gassers are 
probably
all 5w20 or something like that.  If that's what they had on 
hand and

used, it would be way too thin for that old diesel.

Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net writes:

 yea thats exactly what I am going to do.  I have no idea what 
they

 used when they changed the oil.

 On 4/27/2011 6:26 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:

 What did the dealer use when they changed the oil?

 If it got one bar hot idle pressure, I would have aimed it for
 Montreal and hit the throttle.

 If it pegs the gauge when driving, drive it until it's good 
and hot
 and see what idle pressure is. If it's less than 10psi, 
change the

 oil for 15w40 or 20w50 and see how it acts.

 Mitch.


--
1983 300D


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 99 E430, 99 E320. 97 E300, 95 E300, 93 300D, 92 500SEL,
 92 300SD, 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 90 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-28 Thread Dieselhead

Yes!

But the #1 rod will be the indicator.  When bearings on an iron OM 
fail, #1 rod is the first/worst.


Would it be the rod bearings or main bearings that would cause low 
oil pressure?


On 4/27/2011 9:44 PM, Dieselhead wrote:
I'd guess the dealer used 0-20 or something like that.  nobody at a 
stealership lasts long enough to know about a 124, much less a 115. 
By now, even a 210 is unknown by stealer service.


Kaleb,  remove the bottom oil pan, remove the oil pump.  Go to 
FLAPS and get plastiguage.  Pull the #1 rod cap and plastigauge it. 
That will tell you all you need to know about the bearings. 
Assuming that is good, try a different oil pump and the correct oil.


No need to remove the engine unless you need to change bearings or engines.


I don't know what the new diesels call for but the gassers are probably
all 5w20 or something like that.  If that's what they had on hand and
used, it would be way too thin for that old diesel.

Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net writes:


 yea thats exactly what I am going to do.  I have no idea what they
 used when they changed the oil.

 On 4/27/2011 6:26 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:

 What did the dealer use when they changed the oil?

 If it got one bar hot idle pressure, I would have aimed it for
 Montreal and hit the throttle.

 If it pegs the gauge when driving, drive it until it's good and hot
 and see what idle pressure is. If it's less than 10psi, change the
 oil for 15w40 or 20w50 and see how it acts.

 Mitch.


--
1983 300D


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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 99 E430, 99 E320. 97 E300, 95 E300, 93 300D, 92 500SEL,
 92 300SD, 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 90 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-28 Thread Randy Bennell


My 76 115 300D oil pressure drops down pretty low at idle when the car 
is hot too. When cold it pegs and when at speeds above idle it is fine. 
I run 15-40 Rotella oil.


I have put about 10K miles on it and things have not changed at all to 
my recollection.


It does become black immediately after an oil change. Fire it up and 
then shut it down to check the oil level and it will be as black as it 
was before the oil change.


I think I would do an oil change and see if it makes any difference 
before digging much further into it.


Randy



On 27/04/2011 6:21 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
Well I am now the proud owner of the vehicle in question.  I really 
dont know what to think about it yet.  Poor guy has put a ton of money 
in this thing fixing it up.  He said at first they thought it was 
something with the oil pump, but they took it someplace else in OKC 
and the cut open the oil filter and found a flake of copper or 
something.  So the conclusion was the bearings are worn out.  I am 
just not sure about that.  The car starts right up, runs great, sounds 
great, no bearing noises at all.  When its cold the oil pressure pegs 
right away. I just drove the car a couple of miles and sitting at idle 
it does drop to just below the low (15psi?) mark, but pegs again if 
you rev it up.  To me it seems a little on the low side but not 
dangerous.  Now a long highway run would probably make a difference.  
When I checked the oil it just seemed thin to me.  Most diesels I have 
ever seen the oil is black black black, even after and oil change.  I 
think they did change the oil in OKC and its slightly brown, not coal 
black like I am used to, and it just seems thin.  I wonder if he was 
running the wrong weight of oil in the car?  I think the first step is 
to change the oil again with the right oil and see what happens.  
Worse case if the bearings are bad I guess I can pull the engine, drop 
the pan and swap them out.  I would not think that would be too big a 
deal.  Or maybe I should try the oil pump first.  Can that be replaced 
just pulling the lower oil pan?


On 4/26/2011 1:29 PM, Allan Streib wrote:

David Bruckmannbruckma...@transcontinental.ca  writes:


The techs said the engine ran great, no signs of rod knock or bearing
problems.

Well that's good.  I was trying to reply last night, but could not
because Comcast apparently thought my email was a spam bomb.  My fear
was that the main bearings were shot, which has always been my
experience on an engine that won't maintain pressure once it warms up.
But I hope this turns out to be a less significant problem.

Allan





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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-28 Thread David Bruckmann
The dealer changed the oil and put somethingW-40, probably zeroW-40 if I had to 
guess. The next day, when Silver Star opened the filter, they found bearing 
shavings. I don't think they change it, but I do think Luc bought some Rotella. 

Oil pressure was down to below .5 bar hot, and would only peg the gauge at 
80mph. That was before anyone did anything... with fresh Delvac 1300 15w40. It 
got worse after the dealer oil change.

The hope was that the pressure limit valve was the culprit, but the bearing 
shavings in the filter (after only 20 miles of driving) suggested otherwise. 

That car has all new Michelins, new subframe bushings, new prop shaft bearing 
and guibos, fresh A/T and diff fluid, new front and rear seat pads, and a new 
windshield seal. All MB parts except (regrettably) the subframe bushings. And 
it was aligned last week at the dealer. 

It was a steal for the price. 

D. 

On 2011-04-28, at 10:45, mercedes-requ...@okiebenz.com wrote:

 Message: 1
 Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2011 07:59:03 -0500
 From: Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK
 Message-ID: sig.00994e0f32.4db96497.9060...@striplin.net
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
 
 Would it be the rod bearings or main bearings that would cause low 
 oil pressure?
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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-28 Thread Randy Bennell
Bad news for all but Kleb I guess. I think the owner should have stored 
it with one of the folks who offered a spot,  long enough to arrange 
some manner of having it hauled  the rest of the way to Montreal.


I know some folks who suffered an engine failure in a reasonably late 
model Chevy pickup truck half way between Toronto and Winnipeg a few 
years ago. They elected to trade it at a dealer where it happened for 
essentially nothing and buy a used Jetta to come the rest of the way 
home. They discovered that they did not like the Jetta and kept it only 
a very short time. They also discovered after the fact, that they could 
have had the truck hauled home for very little and could then have had 
the engine rebuilt, or replaced for a whole lot less than they 
ultimately had to pay to buy another reasonable truck.


When people are faced with difficult decisions far from home, they often 
take what appears to be the easiest way out, and then regret it when 
they have had time to think about it.


Randy


On 28/04/2011 10:49 AM, David Bruckmann wrote:

The dealer changed the oil and put somethingW-40, probably zeroW-40 if I had to 
guess. The next day, when Silver Star opened the filter, they found bearing 
shavings. I don't think they change it, but I do think Luc bought some Rotella.

Oil pressure was down to below .5 bar hot, and would only peg the gauge at 
80mph. That was before anyone did anything... with fresh Delvac 1300 15w40. It 
got worse after the dealer oil change.

The hope was that the pressure limit valve was the culprit, but the bearing 
shavings in the filter (after only 20 miles of driving) suggested otherwise.

That car has all new Michelins, new subframe bushings, new prop shaft bearing 
and guibos, fresh A/T and diff fluid, new front and rear seat pads, and a new 
windshield seal. All MB parts except (regrettably) the subframe bushings. And 
it was aligned last week at the dealer.

It was a steal for the price.

D.

On 2011-04-28, at 10:45, mercedes-requ...@okiebenz.com wrote:


Message: 1
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2011 07:59:03 -0500
From: Kaleb C. Striplinka...@striplin.net
To: Mercedes Discussion Listmercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK
Message-ID:sig.00994e0f32.4db96497.9060...@striplin.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Would it be the rod bearings or main bearings that would cause low
oil pressure?

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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-28 Thread ernest breakfield
any chance the vehicle was run with BioDiesel? i've seen that stuff 
really thin out some less robust oils because of its solvency, even 
though it doesn't discolor the oil as much because there's no 
particulate matter...


i think i'd change the oil to make sure it's got the proper stuff 
in it, then do an oil analysis to see what's actually showing up in it.



cheers!
e


On 27/Apr/11 16:21, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
Well I am now the proud owner of the vehicle in question.  I really 
dont know what to think about it yet.  Poor guy has put a ton of money 
in this thing fixing it up.  He said at first they thought it was 
something with the oil pump, but they took it someplace else in OKC 
and the cut open the oil filter and found a flake of copper or 
something.  So the conclusion was the bearings are worn out.  I am 
just not sure about that.  The car starts right up, runs great, sounds 
great, no bearing noises at all.  When its cold the oil pressure pegs 
right away. I just drove the car a couple of miles and sitting at idle 
it does drop to just below the low (15psi?) mark, but pegs again if 
you rev it up.  To me it seems a little on the low side but not 
dangerous.  Now a long highway run would probably make a difference.  
When I checked the oil it just seemed thin to me.  Most diesels I have 
ever seen the oil is black black black, even after and oil change.  I 
think they did change the oil in OKC and its slightly brown, not coal 
black like I am used to, and it just seems thin.  I wonder if he was 
running the wrong weight of oil in the car?  I think the first step is 
to change the oil again with the right oil and see what happens.  
Worse case if the bearings are bad I guess I can pull the engine, drop 
the pan and swap them out.  I would not think that would be too big a 
deal.  Or maybe I should try the oil pump first.  Can that be replaced 
just pulling the lower oil pan?


On 4/26/2011 1:29 PM, Allan Streib wrote:

David Bruckmannbruckma...@transcontinental.ca  writes:


The techs said the engine ran great, no signs of rod knock or bearing
problems.

Well that's good.  I was trying to reply last night, but could not
because Comcast apparently thought my email was a spam bomb.  My fear
was that the main bearings were shot, which has always been my
experience on an engine that won't maintain pressure once it warms up.
But I hope this turns out to be a less significant problem.

Allan



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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-28 Thread Allan Streib
Well that's better, but when I tried 0w40 M1 in my OM617 the hot idle
pressure did drop a bit.  It was still within spec, but noticeably lower
than with the 20w50.

Allan

Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com writes:

 Dealers run 0w40 or 5w40 in the new cars.

 Jaime


 On Wed, Apr 27, 2011 at 8:20 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

 I don't know what the new diesels call for but the gassers are probably
 all 5w20 or something like that.  If that's what they had on hand and
 used, it would be way too thin for that old diesel.

 Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net writes:

  yea thats exactly what I am going to do.  I have no idea what they
  used when they changed the oil.
 
  On 4/27/2011 6:26 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:
  What did the dealer use when they changed the oil?
 
  If it got one bar hot idle pressure, I would have aimed it for
  Montreal and hit the throttle.
 
  If it pegs the gauge when driving, drive it until it's good and hot
  and see what idle pressure is. If it's less than 10psi, change the
  oil for 15w40 or 20w50 and see how it acts.
 
  Mitch.

 --
 1983 300D

 ___
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-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-28 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
I have never heard of bearings wearing out on one of those, 
usually the rings would wear out first and it would just loose 
compression.  The usual cause of bearing problems is it leaks oil 
and they let it run out and it causes problems, but then you get 
noise.  This car has no noise at all, nothing.  It is a mystery 
indeed.


On 4/28/2011 10:49 AM, David Bruckmann wrote:

The dealer changed the oil and put somethingW-40, probably zeroW-40 if I had to 
guess. The next day, when Silver Star opened the filter, they found bearing 
shavings. I don't think they change it, but I do think Luc bought some Rotella.

Oil pressure was down to below .5 bar hot, and would only peg the gauge at 
80mph. That was before anyone did anything... with fresh Delvac 1300 15w40. It 
got worse after the dealer oil change.

The hope was that the pressure limit valve was the culprit, but the bearing 
shavings in the filter (after only 20 miles of driving) suggested otherwise.

That car has all new Michelins, new subframe bushings, new prop shaft bearing 
and guibos, fresh A/T and diff fluid, new front and rear seat pads, and a new 
windshield seal. All MB parts except (regrettably) the subframe bushings. And 
it was aligned last week at the dealer.

It was a steal for the price.

D.

On 2011-04-28, at 10:45, mercedes-requ...@okiebenz.com wrote:


Message: 1
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2011 07:59:03 -0500
From: Kaleb C. Striplinka...@striplin.net
To: Mercedes Discussion Listmercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK
Message-ID:sig.00994e0f32.4db96497.9060...@striplin.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Would it be the rod bearings or main bearings that would cause low
oil pressure?

___
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Version: 10.0.1209 / Virus Database: 1500/3600 - Release Date: 04/27/11




--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 99 E430, 99 E320. 97 E300, 95 E300, 93 300D, 92 500SEL,
 92 300SD, 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 90 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D
http://www.okiebenz.com


___
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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-28 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
I think he checked and it was going to be over 1k to get it home.  
Then there would be the expense of the engine repair if indeed it 
needs it.


On 4/28/2011 11:09 AM, Randy Bennell wrote:
Bad news for all but Kleb I guess. I think the owner should have 
stored it with one of the folks who offered a spot,  long enough 
to arrange some manner of having it hauled  the rest of the way 
to Montreal.


I know some folks who suffered an engine failure in a reasonably 
late model Chevy pickup truck half way between Toronto and 
Winnipeg a few years ago. They elected to trade it at a dealer 
where it happened for essentially nothing and buy a used Jetta 
to come the rest of the way home. They discovered that they did 
not like the Jetta and kept it only a very short time. They also 
discovered after the fact, that they could have had the truck 
hauled home for very little and could then have had the engine 
rebuilt, or replaced for a whole lot less than they ultimately 
had to pay to buy another reasonable truck.


When people are faced with difficult decisions far from home, 
they often take what appears to be the easiest way out, and then 
regret it when they have had time to think about it.


Randy


On 28/04/2011 10:49 AM, David Bruckmann wrote:
The dealer changed the oil and put somethingW-40, probably 
zeroW-40 if I had to guess. The next day, when Silver Star 
opened the filter, they found bearing shavings. I don't think 
they change it, but I do think Luc bought some Rotella.


Oil pressure was down to below .5 bar hot, and would only peg 
the gauge at 80mph. That was before anyone did anything... with 
fresh Delvac 1300 15w40. It got worse after the dealer oil change.


The hope was that the pressure limit valve was the culprit, but 
the bearing shavings in the filter (after only 20 miles of 
driving) suggested otherwise.


That car has all new Michelins, new subframe bushings, new prop 
shaft bearing and guibos, fresh A/T and diff fluid, new front 
and rear seat pads, and a new windshield seal. All MB parts 
except (regrettably) the subframe bushings. And it was aligned 
last week at the dealer.


It was a steal for the price.

D.

On 2011-04-28, at 10:45, mercedes-requ...@okiebenz.com wrote:


Message: 1
Date: Thu, 28 Apr 2011 07:59:03 -0500
From: Kaleb C. Striplinka...@striplin.net
To: Mercedes Discussion Listmercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK
Message-ID:sig.00994e0f32.4db96497.9060...@striplin.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Would it be the rod bearings or main bearings that would cause 
low

oil pressure?

___
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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1209 / Virus Database: 1500/3600 - Release Date: 
04/27/11





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 99 E430, 99 E320. 97 E300, 95 E300, 93 300D, 92 500SEL,
 92 300SD, 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 90 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D
http://www.okiebenz.com


___
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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-28 Thread Rick Knoble

 I have never heard of bearings wearing out on one of those,
 usually the rings would wear out first and it would just loose
 compression. The usual cause of bearing problems is it leaks oil
 and they let it run out and it causes problems, but then you get
 noise. This car has no noise at all, nothing. It is a mystery
 indeed.

  Oil pressure was down to below .5 bar hot, and would only peg the gauge at 
  80mph. That was before anyone did anything... with fresh Delvac 1300 15w40. 
  It got worse after the dealer oil change.
 
  The hope was that the pressure limit valve was the culprit, but the bearing 
  shavings in the filter (after only 20 miles of driving) suggested otherwise.

Wouldn't the oil filter o-ring being bad or missing cause low oil pressure?

Rick
Who knows nothing about anything older than a 123
  
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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-28 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Maybe, I was trying to remember if those have the o ring deal like the later 
cars

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 28, 2011, at 8:35 PM, Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com wrote:

 
 I have never heard of bearings wearing out on one of those,
 usually the rings would wear out first and it would just loose
 compression. The usual cause of bearing problems is it leaks oil
 and they let it run out and it causes problems, but then you get
 noise. This car has no noise at all, nothing. It is a mystery
 indeed.
 
 Oil pressure was down to below .5 bar hot, and would only peg the gauge at 
 80mph. That was before anyone did anything... with fresh Delvac 1300 15w40. 
 It got worse after the dealer oil change.
 
 The hope was that the pressure limit valve was the culprit, but the bearing 
 shavings in the filter (after only 20 miles of driving) suggested otherwise.
 
 Wouldn't the oil filter o-ring being bad or missing cause low oil pressure?
 
 Rick
 Who knows nothing about anything older than a 123
 
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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-28 Thread OK Don
I don't think it does - completely different filter set-up. Isn't there a
thermostatically controlled valve for the oil cooler? If it's stuck closed,
that oil could get real hot = thin.

On Thu, Apr 28, 2011 at 8:41 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:

 Maybe, I was trying to remember if those have the o ring deal like the
 later cars

 Sent from my iPhone
 --

OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-28 Thread Dieselhead
I put C rated 0w-40 M1 in my old SDL for winter use.  It was 
terrible.  Oil consumption went way up.  Noise went way up.My 
OM603 was a happy camper with I replaced enough of the 0 stuff with 
15w-50 M1.After I got the oil changed back to the 15w-50 it was 
happy agian.  I have used the C rated 10w-40 M1 without problems in 
the winter.




Well that's better, but when I tried 0w40 M1 in my OM617 the hot idle
pressure did drop a bit.  It was still within spec, but noticeably lower
than with the 20w50.

Allan



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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-28 Thread Dieselhead
MY recollection is that the OM615 and early 617 have a smaller can 
than the OM621.  It is in essence, a fram C3 filter size.  I never 
changed oil on a 615, and Randy should be able to confirm this.  I 
think it is the same as the 621, where the oil filter cartridge is 
only the bypass filter.  There is supposed to be a spring in the 
bottom of the can.  Then the cartridge, then the main filter.  The 
main filter is a reuseable plastic thing link 4 saucers stacked like 
this:  ()()  When you put the can on the engine, you have to push the 
main and cansiter filters down, hold them down with ine finger until 
you get the can pressed up against the housing, then screw in the 
bolt that holds the can.  There are no stem orings like on the 123 
OM616/7 and OM60x engines.  I have seen 621s with NOTHING in the 
filter can that hold good oil pressure.  I don't think the problem is 
there, but theyre MAY be a valve in the can that controls main vs 
bypass.  If all the oil is diverted to the bypass, the oil pressure 
might drop as in this case.


I would expect more like low pressure until the whole can is 
pressurized, then normal pressure, if all the flow went to the bypass 
filter.  If anyone has a 615 book or a 617 book, this should be able 
to be confirmed or refuted.



Maybe, I was trying to remember if those have the o ring deal like 
the later cars


Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 28, 2011, at 8:35 PM, Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com wrote:




 I have never heard of bearings wearing out on one of those,
 usually the rings would wear out first and it would just loose
 compression. The usual cause of bearing problems is it leaks oil
 and they let it run out and it causes problems, but then you get
 noise. This car has no noise at all, nothing. It is a mystery
 indeed.


 Oil pressure was down to below .5 bar hot, and would only peg 
the gauge at 80mph. That was before anyone did anything... with 
fresh Delvac 1300 15w40. It got worse after the dealer oil change.


 The hope was that the pressure limit valve was the culprit, but 
the bearing shavings in the filter (after only 20 miles of 
driving) suggested otherwise.


 Wouldn't the oil filter o-ring being bad or missing cause low oil pressure?

 Rick
 Who knows nothing about anything older than a 123
   
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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-27 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
Well I am now the proud owner of the vehicle in question.  I 
really dont know what to think about it yet.  Poor guy has put a 
ton of money in this thing fixing it up.  He said at first they 
thought it was something with the oil pump, but they took it 
someplace else in OKC and the cut open the oil filter and found a 
flake of copper or something.  So the conclusion was the bearings 
are worn out.  I am just not sure about that.  The car starts 
right up, runs great, sounds great, no bearing noises at all.  
When its cold the oil pressure pegs right away. I just drove the 
car a couple of miles and sitting at idle it does drop to just 
below the low (15psi?) mark, but pegs again if you rev it up.  To 
me it seems a little on the low side but not dangerous.  Now a 
long highway run would probably make a difference.  When I checked 
the oil it just seemed thin to me.  Most diesels I have ever seen 
the oil is black black black, even after and oil change.  I think 
they did change the oil in OKC and its slightly brown, not coal 
black like I am used to, and it just seems thin.  I wonder if he 
was running the wrong weight of oil in the car?  I think the first 
step is to change the oil again with the right oil and see what 
happens.  Worse case if the bearings are bad I guess I can pull 
the engine, drop the pan and swap them out.  I would not think 
that would be too big a deal.  Or maybe I should try the oil pump 
first.  Can that be replaced just pulling the lower oil pan?


On 4/26/2011 1:29 PM, Allan Streib wrote:

David Bruckmannbruckma...@transcontinental.ca  writes:


The techs said the engine ran great, no signs of rod knock or bearing
problems.

Well that's good.  I was trying to reply last night, but could not
because Comcast apparently thought my email was a spam bomb.  My fear
was that the main bearings were shot, which has always been my
experience on an engine that won't maintain pressure once it warms up.
But I hope this turns out to be a less significant problem.

Allan


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 99 E430, 99 E320. 97 E300, 95 E300, 93 300D, 92 500SEL,
 92 300SD, 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 90 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-27 Thread Mitch Haley

What did the dealer use when they changed the oil?

If it got one bar hot idle pressure, I would have aimed it for Montreal and hit 
the throttle.


If it pegs the gauge when driving, drive it until it's good and hot and see what 
idle pressure is. If it's less than 10psi, change the oil for 15w40 or 20w50 and 
see how it acts.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-27 Thread Walt Zarnoch
The oil pump on those is easily accessible, and removable if my memory
serves, once lower pan has been dropped, but it does get easier when
the upper pan is removed.

Walt

On Wed, Apr 27, 2011 at 7:21 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net wrote:
 Well I am now the proud owner of the vehicle in question.  I really dont
 know what to think about it yet.  Poor guy has put a ton of money in this
 thing fixing it up.  He said at first they thought it was something with the
 oil pump, but they took it someplace else in OKC and the cut open the oil
 filter and found a flake of copper or something.  So the conclusion was the
 bearings are worn out.  I am just not sure about that.  The car starts right
 up, runs great, sounds great, no bearing noises at all.  When its cold the
 oil pressure pegs right away. I just drove the car a couple of miles and
 sitting at idle it does drop to just below the low (15psi?) mark, but pegs
 again if you rev it up.  To me it seems a little on the low side but not
 dangerous.  Now a long highway run would probably make a difference.  When I
 checked the oil it just seemed thin to me.  Most diesels I have ever seen
 the oil is black black black, even after and oil change.  I think they did
 change the oil in OKC and its slightly brown, not coal black like I am used
 to, and it just seems thin.  I wonder if he was running the wrong weight of
 oil in the car?  I think the first step is to change the oil again with the
 right oil and see what happens.  Worse case if the bearings are bad I guess
 I can pull the engine, drop the pan and swap them out.  I would not think
 that would be too big a deal.  Or maybe I should try the oil pump first.
  Can that be replaced just pulling the lower oil pan?

 On 4/26/2011 1:29 PM, Allan Streib wrote:

 David Bruckmannbruckma...@transcontinental.ca  writes:

 The techs said the engine ran great, no signs of rod knock or bearing
 problems.

 Well that's good.  I was trying to reply last night, but could not
 because Comcast apparently thought my email was a spam bomb.  My fear
 was that the main bearings were shot, which has always been my
 experience on an engine that won't maintain pressure once it warms up.
 But I hope this turns out to be a less significant problem.

 Allan

 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  99 E430, 99 E320. 97 E300, 95 E300, 93 300D, 92 500SEL,
  92 300SD, 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 90 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2,
  85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D
 http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-27 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
yea thats exactly what I am going to do.  I have no idea what they 
used when they changed the oil.


On 4/27/2011 6:26 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:

What did the dealer use when they changed the oil?

If it got one bar hot idle pressure, I would have aimed it for 
Montreal and hit the throttle.


If it pegs the gauge when driving, drive it until it's good and 
hot and see what idle pressure is. If it's less than 10psi, 
change the oil for 15w40 or 20w50 and see how it acts.


Mitch.

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-
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04/27/11





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 99 E430, 99 E320. 97 E300, 95 E300, 93 300D, 92 500SEL,
 92 300SD, 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 90 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D
http://www.okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-27 Thread Allan Streib
I don't know what the new diesels call for but the gassers are probably
all 5w20 or something like that.  If that's what they had on hand and
used, it would be way too thin for that old diesel.

Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net writes:

 yea thats exactly what I am going to do.  I have no idea what they
 used when they changed the oil.

 On 4/27/2011 6:26 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:
 What did the dealer use when they changed the oil?

 If it got one bar hot idle pressure, I would have aimed it for
 Montreal and hit the throttle.

 If it pegs the gauge when driving, drive it until it's good and hot
 and see what idle pressure is. If it's less than 10psi, change the
 oil for 15w40 or 20w50 and see how it acts.

 Mitch.

-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-27 Thread OK Don
I thought he said the delaer changed the oil to a heavier grade in hopes of
fixing it.
Could it be Diesel in the oil? I too have never seen one that wasn't totally
black.

On Wed, Apr 27, 2011 at 7:20 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

 I don't know what the new diesels call for but the gassers are probably
 all 5w20 or something like that.  If that's what they had on hand and
 used, it would be way too thin for that old diesel.

 Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net writes:

  yea thats exactly what I am going to do.  I have no idea what they
  used when they changed the oil.
 
  On 4/27/2011 6:26 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:
  What did the dealer use when they changed the oil?
 
  If it got one bar hot idle pressure, I would have aimed it for
  Montreal and hit the throttle.
 
  If it pegs the gauge when driving, drive it until it's good and hot
  and see what idle pressure is. If it's less than 10psi, change the
  oil for 15w40 or 20w50 and see how it acts.
 
  Mitch.

 --
 1983 300D


 --

OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-27 Thread Jaime Kopchinski
Dealers run 0w40 or 5w40 in the new cars.

Jaime


On Wed, Apr 27, 2011 at 8:20 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

 I don't know what the new diesels call for but the gassers are probably
 all 5w20 or something like that.  If that's what they had on hand and
 used, it would be way too thin for that old diesel.

 Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net writes:

  yea thats exactly what I am going to do.  I have no idea what they
  used when they changed the oil.
 
  On 4/27/2011 6:26 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:
  What did the dealer use when they changed the oil?
 
  If it got one bar hot idle pressure, I would have aimed it for
  Montreal and hit the throttle.
 
  If it pegs the gauge when driving, drive it until it's good and hot
  and see what idle pressure is. If it's less than 10psi, change the
  oil for 15w40 or 20w50 and see how it acts.
 
  Mitch.

 --
 1983 300D

 ___
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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-27 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
I thought of that and maybe it is buy the oil level is not high like you would 
think if it was getting fuel in the oil

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 27, 2011, at 7:46 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:

 I thought he said the delaer changed the oil to a heavier grade in hopes of
 fixing it.
 Could it be Diesel in the oil? I too have never seen one that wasn't totally
 black.
 
 On Wed, Apr 27, 2011 at 7:20 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:
 
 I don't know what the new diesels call for but the gassers are probably
 all 5w20 or something like that.  If that's what they had on hand and
 used, it would be way too thin for that old diesel.
 
 Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net writes:
 
 yea thats exactly what I am going to do.  I have no idea what they
 used when they changed the oil.
 
 On 4/27/2011 6:26 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:
 What did the dealer use when they changed the oil?
 
 If it got one bar hot idle pressure, I would have aimed it for
 Montreal and hit the throttle.
 
 If it pegs the gauge when driving, drive it until it's good and hot
 and see what idle pressure is. If it's less than 10psi, change the
 oil for 15w40 or 20w50 and see how it acts.
 
 Mitch.
 
 --
 1983 300D
 
 
 --
 
 OK Don
 2001 ML320
 1992 300D 2.5T
 1990 300D 2.5T
 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-27 Thread Dieselhead
I'd guess the dealer used 0-20 or something like that.  nobody at a 
stealership lasts long enough to know about a 124, much less a 115. 
By now, even a 210 is unknown by stealer service.


Kaleb,  remove the bottom oil pan, remove the oil pump.  Go to FLAPS 
and get plastiguage.  Pull the #1 rod cap and plastigauge it.  That 
will tell you all you need to know about the bearings.  Assuming that 
is good, try a different oil pump and the correct oil.


No need to remove the engine unless you need to change bearings or engines.



I don't know what the new diesels call for but the gassers are probably
all 5w20 or something like that.  If that's what they had on hand and
used, it would be way too thin for that old diesel.

Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net writes:


 yea thats exactly what I am going to do.  I have no idea what they
 used when they changed the oil.

 On 4/27/2011 6:26 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:

 What did the dealer use when they changed the oil?

 If it got one bar hot idle pressure, I would have aimed it for
 Montreal and hit the throttle.

 If it pegs the gauge when driving, drive it until it's good and hot
 and see what idle pressure is. If it's less than 10psi, change the
 oil for 15w40 or 20w50 and see how it acts.

 Mitch.


--
1983 300D


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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-26 Thread David Bruckmann
Thank you Kaleb. He's in a real pickle. All of this is happening during a MOVE 
back to Montreal from California (this wasn't just a car run), so there is a 
lot going on. And if his I-told-you-so wife doesn't kill him after this it 
will be a miracle. She's actually been great about it, but everyone has a 
limit...

Will keep everyone posted. I just hope that it is the pump or the valve, and 
not the main bearings or something. But i guess there's no real way to know 
that without an overhaul.

D. 

On 2011-04-26, at 7:28, mercedes-requ...@okiebenz.com wrote:

 Message: 6
 Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2011 22:43:56 -0500
 From: Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK
 Message-ID:
sig.0097a37822.f48cd916-c735-4807-b158-beed8bcda...@striplin.net
 Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii
 
 I can probably go get it and park it here. I have room
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On Apr 25, 2011, at 10:20 PM, David Bruckmann 
 bruckma...@transcontinental.ca wrote:
 
 Yes and no. He went to the (apparently great) dealer in OK City. They had 
 three techs spend the afternoon doing diagnostics etc and two things 
 happened:
 
 1) They only charged him ONE hour labour (this, I think, is VERY generous of 
 them and commendable), plus $47 for an oil change (changed to thicker oil in 
 hopes it would improve a bit - it didn't)
 
 2) They believe that he may need either the pressure limit valve or the oil 
 pump, and suggest both for good measure. Neither is in stock and will arrive 
 Wednesday at the earliest. They are saying 1.5 hours labour to remove the 
 pan, replace the pump and valve, and put it all back. That seems VERY 
 reasonable to me. 
 
 The techs said the engine ran great, no signs of rod knock or bearing 
 problems. Lots of power, no smoke, etc. And my friend noted that it burned 
 only maybe a pint of oil in the  1600 high-speed miles they have driven. 
 That is great for a 617. 
 
 His problem is that he needs to be in Montreal by Friday at the latest. He 
 is travelling with a friend/co-worker who is muling a BMW back as well, so 
 they could leave the MB and come back for it later (like, in a month or so), 
 but I doubt the dealer would entertain parking it for that long. 
 
 Do any listers near OK City have a parking spot for a nice tidy W115 for a 
 few weeks?
 
 Also, rather than a new $500 oil pump, he was wondering if anyone near OKC 
 has a used oil pump for a 617.910 that they don't need??
 
 D. 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-26 Thread Mitch Haley

What happens if you put a 617.95x pump in it?
Klebbie might have one of those.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-26 Thread Walt Zarnoch
If it's an NA 617.91x, you need to change #1 main bearing cap,
clearance the block for the chain, drill and tap the holes for the
seal retainer on the block, change to a different upper oil pan, get
the double-sprocket, and possibly the crank.

It's doable, just tedious to do. I'm in the process of it right now actually...

Walt

On Tue, Apr 26, 2011 at 9:03 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:
 What happens if you put a 617.95x pump in it?
 Klebbie might have one of those.

 Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-26 Thread Mitch Haley

Walt Zarnoch wrote:

If it's an NA 617.91x, you need to change #1 main bearing cap,
clearance the block for the chain, drill and tap the holes for the
seal retainer on the block, change to a different upper oil pan, get
the double-sprocket, and possibly the crank.

It's doable, just tedious to do. I'm in the process of it right now actually...


Sounds like something one would not want to pay a dealership to do...
Is your .91x pump usable?
Can you overnight it to OKC?

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-26 Thread Walt Zarnoch
It hasn't been pulled yet, I'm still in the must gather parts! phase.

I wish I could help, but I'd need to pull the engine back out of the
truck to remove it, and that would have to wait till the weekend.

Sorry for not being able to help out this time round. :(

Walt

On Tue, Apr 26, 2011 at 9:17 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:
 Walt Zarnoch wrote:

 If it's an NA 617.91x, you need to change #1 main bearing cap,
 clearance the block for the chain, drill and tap the holes for the
 seal retainer on the block, change to a different upper oil pan, get
 the double-sprocket, and possibly the crank.

 It's doable, just tedious to do. I'm in the process of it right now
 actually...

 Sounds like something one would not want to pay a dealership to do...
 Is your .91x pump usable?
 Can you overnight it to OKC?

 Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-26 Thread Allan Streib
David Bruckmann bruckma...@transcontinental.ca writes:

 The techs said the engine ran great, no signs of rod knock or bearing
 problems.

Well that's good.  I was trying to reply last night, but could not
because Comcast apparently thought my email was a spam bomb.  My fear
was that the main bearings were shot, which has always been my
experience on an engine that won't maintain pressure once it warms up.
But I hope this turns out to be a less significant problem.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-26 Thread OK Don
I'm only 23 miles South of the dealer in Norman. He can park it in my
driveway also - not as much room as Kelb has, but just enough for one more
car in a pinch.
His experience doesn't sound like the same stealer I deal with in OKC
(there's only one). Hope they don't double the retail price of the parts on
hom, like they do to me.

On Tue, Apr 26, 2011 at 7:54 AM, David Bruckmann 
bruckma...@transcontinental.ca wrote:

 Thank you Kaleb. He's in a real pickle. All of this is happening during a
 MOVE back to Montreal from California (this wasn't just a car run), so there
 is a lot going on. And if his I-told-you-so wife doesn't kill him after
 this it will be a miracle. She's actually been great about it, but everyone
 has a limit...

 Will keep everyone posted. I just hope that it is the pump or the valve,
 and not the main bearings or something. But i guess there's no real way to
 know that without an overhaul.

 D.

-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-26 Thread Allan Streib
OK Don okd...@gmail.com writes:

 His experience doesn't sound like the same stealer I deal with in OKC
 (there's only one). Hope they don't double the retail price of the parts on
 hom, like they do to me.

That's standard for any shop.  Sounds like they're being reasonable on
the labor anyway.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-25 Thread David Bruckmann
Yes and no. He went to the (apparently great) dealer in OK City. They had three 
techs spend the afternoon doing diagnostics etc and two things happened:

1) They only charged him ONE hour labour (this, I think, is VERY generous of 
them and commendable), plus $47 for an oil change (changed to thicker oil in 
hopes it would improve a bit - it didn't)

2) They believe that he may need either the pressure limit valve or the oil 
pump, and suggest both for good measure. Neither is in stock and will arrive 
Wednesday at the earliest. They are saying 1.5 hours labour to remove the pan, 
replace the pump and valve, and put it all back. That seems VERY reasonable to 
me. 

The techs said the engine ran great, no signs of rod knock or bearing problems. 
Lots of power, no smoke, etc. And my friend noted that it burned only maybe a 
pint of oil in the  1600 high-speed miles they have driven. That is great for a 
617. 

His problem is that he needs to be in Montreal by Friday at the latest. He is 
travelling with a friend/co-worker who is muling a BMW back as well, so they 
could leave the MB and come back for it later (like, in a month or so), but I 
doubt the dealer would entertain parking it for that long. 

Do any listers near OK City have a parking spot for a nice tidy W115 for a few 
weeks?

Also, rather than a new $500 oil pump, he was wondering if anyone near OKC has 
a used oil pump for a 617.910 that they don't need??

D. 

PS: MBCA members can still use Roadside Assistance even if the car hasn't seen 
a dealer in ages. 


On 2011-04-25, at 22:56, mercedes-requ...@okiebenz.com wrote:

 Message: 12
 Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2011 20:51:19 -0500
 From: OK Don okd...@gmail.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] URGENT HELP! Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK
 Message-ID: BANLkTi=k405Gan26xpnm=bdi+erhpje...@mail.gmail.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
 
 I just read this post - did he get help? I don't have a lift or good way to
 tow, but do have a jack and stands. There are also at least two other indies
 in OKC, but I don't trust any of them, having seen the work done on my ML by
 two of them.
 
 On Mon, Apr 25, 2011 at 4:08 PM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:
 
 andrew strasfogel wrote:
 
 He can also dial 1-800-4 mercedes.  I do it all the time!
 
 
 Unfortunately, that's now for people with cars covered by factory warranty
 or who spend money at the dealership regularly.
 
 Mitch.
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK

2011-04-25 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
I can probably go get it and park it here. I have room

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 25, 2011, at 10:20 PM, David Bruckmann bruckma...@transcontinental.ca 
wrote:

 Yes and no. He went to the (apparently great) dealer in OK City. They had 
 three techs spend the afternoon doing diagnostics etc and two things happened:
 
 1) They only charged him ONE hour labour (this, I think, is VERY generous of 
 them and commendable), plus $47 for an oil change (changed to thicker oil in 
 hopes it would improve a bit - it didn't)
 
 2) They believe that he may need either the pressure limit valve or the oil 
 pump, and suggest both for good measure. Neither is in stock and will arrive 
 Wednesday at the earliest. They are saying 1.5 hours labour to remove the 
 pan, replace the pump and valve, and put it all back. That seems VERY 
 reasonable to me. 
 
 The techs said the engine ran great, no signs of rod knock or bearing 
 problems. Lots of power, no smoke, etc. And my friend noted that it burned 
 only maybe a pint of oil in the  1600 high-speed miles they have driven. That 
 is great for a 617. 
 
 His problem is that he needs to be in Montreal by Friday at the latest. He is 
 travelling with a friend/co-worker who is muling a BMW back as well, so they 
 could leave the MB and come back for it later (like, in a month or so), but I 
 doubt the dealer would entertain parking it for that long. 
 
 Do any listers near OK City have a parking spot for a nice tidy W115 for a 
 few weeks?
 
 Also, rather than a new $500 oil pump, he was wondering if anyone near OKC 
 has a used oil pump for a 617.910 that they don't need??
 
 D. 
 
 PS: MBCA members can still use Roadside Assistance even if the car hasn't 
 seen a dealer in ages. 
 
 
 On 2011-04-25, at 22:56, mercedes-requ...@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 Message: 12
 Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2011 20:51:19 -0500
 From: OK Don okd...@gmail.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] URGENT HELP! Stranded in Oklahoma City, OK
 Message-ID: BANLkTi=k405Gan26xpnm=bdi+erhpje...@mail.gmail.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
 
 I just read this post - did he get help? I don't have a lift or good way to
 tow, but do have a jack and stands. There are also at least two other indies
 in OKC, but I don't trust any of them, having seen the work done on my ML by
 two of them.
 
 On Mon, Apr 25, 2011 at 4:08 PM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:
 
 andrew strasfogel wrote:
 
 He can also dial 1-800-4 mercedes.  I do it all the time!
 
 
 Unfortunately, that's now for people with cars covered by factory warranty
 or who spend money at the dealership regularly.
 
 Mitch.
 
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

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