Re: [MBZ] Why I don't take my car to a mechanic

2013-08-11 Thread Allan Streib
Yeah, it doesn't seem to be very critical.  I mix very small amounts as
needed and apply it with an eye dropper.  I don't try to save the
mixture, the acetone evaporates quickly.

Allan

Larry T  writes:

> good suggestion - I'll mix a batch  - 50:50 IIRC> - right?  >.
> On 8/11/2013 7:24 PM, Allan Streib wrote:
>> Larry T  writes:
>>
>>> BTW, i soaked the fittings with PB Blaster in the hope it will help the
>>> threads break loose
>> I like the ATF and acetone mix myself.  I have had very good luck with
>> it.
>>
>> Allan
>>
>
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Allan Streib

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Re: [MBZ] Why I don't take my car to a mechanic

2013-08-11 Thread Larry T

good suggestion - I'll mix a batch  - 50:50 IIRC> - right?  >.
On 8/11/2013 7:24 PM, Allan Streib wrote:

Larry T  writes:


BTW, i soaked the fittings with PB Blaster in the hope it will help the
threads break loose

I like the ATF and acetone mix myself.  I have had very good luck with
it.

Allan



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Re: [MBZ] Why I don't take my car to a mechanic

2013-08-11 Thread Allan Streib
Larry T  writes:

> BTW, i soaked the fittings with PB Blaster in the hope it will help the 
> threads break loose

I like the ATF and acetone mix myself.  I have had very good luck with
it.

Allan

-- 
Allan Streib

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Re: [MBZ] Why I don't take my car to a mechanic

2013-08-11 Thread Larry T
Agree completely.  My 91 300D only had 100K miles on it -- I assume the 
rear rotors were replaced at some point although I can't imagine why at 
such low mileage.  It looks like the rubber hose fittings and the bleed 
valves were worked on using a pair of pliers!   The flats on the Hexes 
are all rounded off - I had hoped to replace the brake fluid but had to 
get creative - I managed to unscrew the rubber hose (with vice grips) 
and let some fluid leak from the connection while my pressure bleeder 
kept pressure on the fluid.   Not the preferred method.


I found a special socket in my tool box - it is intended to go on a 
drill and put it on the stud whatever and try to unscrew it while 
putting pressure on the drill.  Haven't tried it yet - if it doesn't 
break it loose I won't have  much left to work with.   If I am 
unsuccessful removing the bleeder I will be left with a scrawny stud 
kind of thing which I assume wdill need to be drilled out.   And if 
drilling the bleeder out doesn't break it loose and allow it to unscrew 
I will need to replace the caliper.  not many "good" options


BTW, back on 2002 or so, I bought a set of calipers and rotors from a 
list member.   He said they had the same part numbers according to the 
MB Parts Site and the front stuff fit perfectly - I couldn't be happier 
with them.  But the rears have a different bolt hole placement and the 
bolts are different.but doesn't matter, perhaps I will sell them on 
eBay? ;-)  The problem is those buggered up fasteners!  BTW, I forgot to 
mention that the hex that attaches the rubber hose to the brake hard 
pipe that splits near the pineapple..  The hard pipes fittings are 
buggered  also.  I cannot imagine what someone was doing back there with 
such low mileage but they need to buy some decent flare nut wrenches if 
they want to work on brakes!


BTW, i soaked the fittings with PB Blaster in the hope it will help the 
threads break loose


Anyone need a nice pair of rear calipers from a 95 E Class?  ;-)  If so 
I can help -


Sorry about the long email

Larry

xdw
;ahoo.com wrote:

I started on the front brake job on my 240D today. I went to take the hub off 
the driver's side rotor and immediately noticed that the job was sabotaged four 
years ago. One of the five Allen head bolts was completely stripped. These 
rotors were replaced by my mechanic when I bought the car. He decided to 
replace a stripped bolt. Nice. Now, if I were in Maine where I have my welder, 
I would weld on a cheap socket and remove it. Guess I have to transport the 
hub/rotor assembly up there.

Sent from my iPhone
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