Re: [MBZ] timing chain rail pins OM603
On Sat, Mar 25, 2006 at 06:11:11PM -0500, Bob DuPuy wrote: Got it! The dent puller was a no go, bad agle due to the condensor. I soaked it with PB again then rattled the boss on the back side of the headwith an air hammer. Then I heated it with some Mapp gas and applied the bolt and washer stack again. I'll pull the cam and head tomorrow AM. Thanks for the encouragement. For what it's worth, I bent two bolts trying to get the pins out of the head on the 87 300D. Instead of a huge stack of washers, I used a nipple, some washers, a bolt and a nut, something like this: bolthead|-nut-washer-nipple-restofwashers-head Thread the bolt in as far as it will go, and then 'loosen' the nut to pull the pin out. Like I said, I bent two bolts getting one of them out. You do need the pins out to get the head off without disconnecting the chain. If you run synthetic, there is no reason to change a two degree stretched chain. Depending on the age of the replacement head, you might need the two head bolts that go in the chain cavity to be longer ones. The difference in the casting will make this obvious by looking - the old bolts from the #14 head will not be long enough to bite thread when used on a #17 head (provided your heads are similar to mine). K
Re: [MBZ] timing chain rail pins OM603
On Mar 25, 2006, at 5:21 PM, Bob DuPuy wrote: I'm going to try to sneak a real dent puller past the condensor and go for it. I bet the bolt snaps. Bob Why not get a hardened bolt instead of breaking the one you have and creating more work than necessary? Chains are not expensive, I would replace the chain while I was in there. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am
Re: [MBZ] timing chain rail pins OM603
you wrote:my standard method of stacking nuts and
washers and progressively tightening a center bolt
Hi Bob,
By golly - that's *my* favorite method too!! As far as breaking the
lower pin loose, have you tried to tap it (gently) with a punch to force it
inward? I know it's the wrong direction, but it may break it loose. You've
tried all the alternatives --
Other than that, does the rail *have* to be changed? ;-)
Good luck!
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: Bob DuPuy [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2006 4:39 PM
Subject: [MBZ] timing chain rail pins OM603
God freakin bless America! I am so aggravated. I'm pulling the head on
the 300SDL and everything is smooth as can be. Less than 1 1/2 hrs to
get everything striped down but the timing chain rail pins. The top
one comes right out with my standard method of stacking nuts and
washers and progressively tightening a center bolt, but the bottom
will not budge. I'm sure the little valve cover bolt is going to snap.
There is no way the puny dealer mini slide hammer would do any thing.
I've tapped it heated it soaked it with PB blaster and nothing. I've
got twice as much time in this one mother pin as the rest of the job
so far. Does anyone have some miracle method or a special prayer or
curse for such an occasion? Who knows if this pin is inside or outside
the loop of the timing chain? I think it is time for a beverage!! I
know a Harpoon IPA ought to do the trick
Bob DuPuy
Parrish, FL
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Re: [MBZ] timing chain rail pins OM603
Thanks for the quick reply. I just finished that beer and am going out
to have another crack at it. Yes I did try tapping it in to get it
moving but I think it is already bottomed out. I don't think I can get
the head off without taking the rail out. unless maybe I break the
chain. It is less than 2 degrees stretch though and I didn't borrow
the chain tool. I'm going to try to sneak a real dent puller past the
condensor and go for it. I bet the bolt snaps.
Bob
On 3/25/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
you wrote:my standard method of stacking nuts and
washers and progressively tightening a center bolt
Hi Bob,
By golly - that's *my* favorite method too!! As far as breaking the
lower pin loose, have you tried to tap it (gently) with a punch to force it
inward? I know it's the wrong direction, but it may break it loose. You've
tried all the alternatives --
Other than that, does the rail *have* to be changed? ;-)
Good luck!
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: Bob DuPuy [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2006 4:39 PM
Subject: [MBZ] timing chain rail pins OM603
God freakin bless America! I am so aggravated. I'm pulling the head on
the 300SDL and everything is smooth as can be. Less than 1 1/2 hrs to
get everything striped down but the timing chain rail pins. The top
one comes right out with my standard method of stacking nuts and
washers and progressively tightening a center bolt, but the bottom
will not budge. I'm sure the little valve cover bolt is going to snap.
There is no way the puny dealer mini slide hammer would do any thing.
I've tapped it heated it soaked it with PB blaster and nothing. I've
got twice as much time in this one mother pin as the rest of the job
so far. Does anyone have some miracle method or a special prayer or
curse for such an occasion? Who knows if this pin is inside or outside
the loop of the timing chain? I think it is time for a beverage!! I
know a Harpoon IPA ought to do the trick
Bob DuPuy
Parrish, FL
Re: [MBZ] timing chain rail pins OM603
Bob, are you using the strongest bolt possible? You mentioned the cam cover
bolt - perhaps there's another of the proper size that may work better?
Don't really want the bolt to break off because you might *really* be in a
bind then.
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: Bob DuPuy [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2006 5:21 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] timing chain rail pins OM603
Thanks for the quick reply. I just finished that beer and am going out
to have another crack at it. Yes I did try tapping it in to get it
moving but I think it is already bottomed out. I don't think I can get
the head off without taking the rail out. unless maybe I break the
chain. It is less than 2 degrees stretch though and I didn't borrow
the chain tool. I'm going to try to sneak a real dent puller past the
condensor and go for it. I bet the bolt snaps.
Bob
On 3/25/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
you wrote:my standard method of stacking nuts and
washers and progressively tightening a center bolt
Hi Bob,
By golly - that's *my* favorite method too!! As far as breaking the
lower pin loose, have you tried to tap it (gently) with a punch to force
it
inward? I know it's the wrong direction, but it may break it loose.
You've
tried all the alternatives --
Other than that, does the rail *have* to be changed? ;-)
Good luck!
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: Bob DuPuy [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2006 4:39 PM
Subject: [MBZ] timing chain rail pins OM603
God freakin bless America! I am so aggravated. I'm pulling the head on
the 300SDL and everything is smooth as can be. Less than 1 1/2 hrs to
get everything striped down but the timing chain rail pins. The top
one comes right out with my standard method of stacking nuts and
washers and progressively tightening a center bolt, but the bottom
will not budge. I'm sure the little valve cover bolt is going to snap.
There is no way the puny dealer mini slide hammer would do any thing.
I've tapped it heated it soaked it with PB blaster and nothing. I've
got twice as much time in this one mother pin as the rest of the job
so far. Does anyone have some miracle method or a special prayer or
curse for such an occasion? Who knows if this pin is inside or outside
the loop of the timing chain? I think it is time for a beverage!! I
know a Harpoon IPA ought to do the trick
Bob DuPuy
Parrish, FL
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] timing chain rail pins OM603
Got it! The dent puller was a no go, bad agle due to the condensor. I
soaked it with PB again then rattled the boss on the back side of the
headwith an air hammer. Then I heated it with some Mapp gas and
applied the bolt and washer stack again. I'll pull the cam and head
tomorrow AM. Thanks for the encouragement.
Bob DuPuy
Parrish, FL
On 3/25/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Bob, are you using the strongest bolt possible? You mentioned the cam cover
bolt - perhaps there's another of the proper size that may work better?
Don't really want the bolt to break off because you might *really* be in a
bind then.
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
